tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-71301773125616757222024-03-13T01:36:20.869-07:00Leadchanges Spain!Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.comBlogger94125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-47144921823367905062020-04-09T10:22:00.000-07:002020-04-13T07:08:20.138-07:00<b>El Camino (Levante) Albergue Reina Lupa at Boqueixón and into Santa Marta and there onwards into Santiago de Compostela (10km) - Sunday 6th October, 2019 and day off in </b><b>Santiago de Compostela - Monday 7th October, 2019</b><b>. </b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Dej5hDz7oAylQLlcwEgAaltZpvjUYF7xJXV6UE09TTXps-bP65ttG8Vtu1wdiFNgOpuN2ToT8s1Nz6sNrAxb-6u3JcarfwONRnB6X89-d00f_1lesH8V2GCXdl5idyQLfLiBHW3P3NMQ/s1600/IMG_4233.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1376" data-original-width="774" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Dej5hDz7oAylQLlcwEgAaltZpvjUYF7xJXV6UE09TTXps-bP65ttG8Vtu1wdiFNgOpuN2ToT8s1Nz6sNrAxb-6u3JcarfwONRnB6X89-d00f_1lesH8V2GCXdl5idyQLfLiBHW3P3NMQ/s320/IMG_4233.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Is that arrow saying "pilgrim"...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBtADPa1sa2CysG5jRQWj_sMN981DHc3NIjEYcc-qwClZ_zYCX7MvoKCXbJfThAHC-nwMbxe7qga9QZ0-3bcSrptsBm1iMb7RlYFVYWNaDiYSHZVk4R4hlPScaS3HxmoTJpKaQ74Enl53D/s1600/IMG_4236.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1376" data-original-width="774" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBtADPa1sa2CysG5jRQWj_sMN981DHc3NIjEYcc-qwClZ_zYCX7MvoKCXbJfThAHC-nwMbxe7qga9QZ0-3bcSrptsBm1iMb7RlYFVYWNaDiYSHZVk4R4hlPScaS3HxmoTJpKaQ74Enl53D/s320/IMG_4236.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking by 07.00</td></tr>
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As my good friend Jayne had suggested, it seemed entirely appropriate that I would arrive in Santiago on a Sunday! We were up and out early - ankle strapped, painkillers taken! It felt much better today but still sore. My knee was also starting to give me some grief, from taking the weight on it and favouring one leg over the other due to my ankle. </div>
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We had our pan, chorizo, sliced cheese, nectarine and persimmon with us for breakfast but no coffee... we just hoped that we might be lucky enough to find a place open on the way, but it is not easy in Spain on a Sunday!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGOOgqjwfXxmF8W5UlX9hnNFUYnmIPXDg55VaHxhdXmkhisQjMR2zwEJ33MAZ8NQwdfUrsWGMLQZHqKUZJTvC-liw12GgA2bZl3eE3bbqrvHfXH2Uvjbd-EZT2QgP8UBcjTXiQ21ivO66z/s1600/IMG_4235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGOOgqjwfXxmF8W5UlX9hnNFUYnmIPXDg55VaHxhdXmkhisQjMR2zwEJ33MAZ8NQwdfUrsWGMLQZHqKUZJTvC-liw12GgA2bZl3eE3bbqrvHfXH2Uvjbd-EZT2QgP8UBcjTXiQ21ivO66z/s200/IMG_4235.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cute rest area with pilgrim symbols</td></tr>
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I left a note in the book for Camiña and after locking our stuff in the car, we set off. We had to search for arrows by torchlight. I had my lovely mini "lantern" clipped to my backpack and that was great for guiding our way. I held it up pretending to be a medieval pilgrim. Mostly we were on roads today but we had expected that. They were still quiet lanes though, but not medieval ways. We only went slightly astray once, as there were no arrows - yup even when this close to Santiago, they can still disappear. I wish I had trusted my map reading as we would have taken the right track - but really it was just like a square and we went along two sides of it and the true track the other two sides, so we joined up in the right place. There was also a very cute rest area with cute pilgrim symbols but it was a bit early to stop! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRSe957VgAVjDzok7sgeHQoBACsT9k8wWIqYUDC6D31Qcx7CrlEK37LcGiu6aMqO5CuT5NYBxayWjqU2jxEC48bA5M_zT9ZYyyF3gLwJQsll9EFpoXfpl_T0L7DMxr7_QxeVwI1NyQu9ef/s1600/IMG_4241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRSe957VgAVjDzok7sgeHQoBACsT9k8wWIqYUDC6D31Qcx7CrlEK37LcGiu6aMqO5CuT5NYBxayWjqU2jxEC48bA5M_zT9ZYyyF3gLwJQsll9EFpoXfpl_T0L7DMxr7_QxeVwI1NyQu9ef/s320/IMG_4241.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Breakfast and coffee - with our "hand/shells'</td></tr>
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For most of the way there was a lovely cool mist and we still passed little bits of medieval road near chapels and old bridges, next to the main route. As we arrived at the bottom of a woodland track that led steeply up to the busier streets and underpasses on the outskirts of Santiago, we were in luck - a sign suggesting a bar that sold coffee. Michael made a quick side trip as he was unencumbered with a large backpack and had the flask and breakfast in his small daypack. I headed on up the hill and met a lady walking 3 dogs (one off lead and blind that she called constantly) and she asked me if I was afraid to go alone. She said she would be - and I said, "but you have 3 dogs!"... As I neared the top of the hill, M in his usual marching gate (he would probably be one of those pilgrims!) caught up with me bearing gifts - cafe con leche! Wonderful - I couldn't believe our luck and then, as we reached the top, there was a little rest stop with fitness equipment and stone benches - perfect for our coffee and mini breakfast picnic. We had also passed a sign that said "obrasoro" - work of gold - the plaza and cathedral... and it was only 4km away! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPCj8Ky5-j754-dJuXunGT___OL1DfHM3hVgsqv_uyp_W8YZPJ0oCUxdlbUHuIk9-y1IhaKOVoVZroxyRQXAmTBtR6U81XhyNIq0VaUxeHxfkFTVVISLvfgtyFGkkmap6dRJ7bNyfJlPHN/s1600/IMG_4244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPCj8Ky5-j754-dJuXunGT___OL1DfHM3hVgsqv_uyp_W8YZPJ0oCUxdlbUHuIk9-y1IhaKOVoVZroxyRQXAmTBtR6U81XhyNIq0VaUxeHxfkFTVVISLvfgtyFGkkmap6dRJ7bNyfJlPHN/s200/IMG_4244.JPG" width="150" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdajnJF9ToSlcw3nGttwqrVGcLbIK9VpR3MWO-Rk2beMQPxVCHcDxQEeEirgS8ry0sWw55mLI6TKLtCjVpEV0h_1nM8Qq3vDsDFOSTjkwwvY1OoxYDLHhc0o9TY6sJpyaLUAJkgWgTmhOT/s1600/IMG_4242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdajnJF9ToSlcw3nGttwqrVGcLbIK9VpR3MWO-Rk2beMQPxVCHcDxQEeEirgS8ry0sWw55mLI6TKLtCjVpEV0h_1nM8Qq3vDsDFOSTjkwwvY1OoxYDLHhc0o9TY6sJpyaLUAJkgWgTmhOT/s320/IMG_4242.JPG" width="320" /></a>We crossed a bridge with many moments. This is a feature of all caminos as they enter Santiago - there is a famous place on the Frances where people leave their shoes and other things and this bridge was a less romantic version of this. It was still quite a shrine though and it was interesting to see. The shoes tended to line the parapet below the fence but a few hung from their laces above. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-ECp9_evh8rBQgvY8tFUvh4iiPvcsXeAfcVbrdaLnU9fZqjKwUp4SovJqVBNOnfC6O16ZE32iZtLGy6ReTTtNFZqviyT0CK1HIMTtCEtKIrSPZAkubTKZubCj9GQWALH054uhhfEbX10h/s1600/IMG_4245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-ECp9_evh8rBQgvY8tFUvh4iiPvcsXeAfcVbrdaLnU9fZqjKwUp4SovJqVBNOnfC6O16ZE32iZtLGy6ReTTtNFZqviyT0CK1HIMTtCEtKIrSPZAkubTKZubCj9GQWALH054uhhfEbX10h/s320/IMG_4245.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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It is not quite what I had in mind for the male and it is not the same a cairn with the stone from home tradition, so I kept it with me and decided the right thing would come to me at some point. </div>
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Right after this we saw what was the largest and wiggliest zebra crossing ever - so I did a quick John, Paul, George and Ringo demo (well you have to don't you?)... and headed on.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimuhd5yPbrdO6d_zQVbXqfZNB4Ciqwd9IDx8U0F5DjudrOBArpA4qb0x8dflW79Q_V0Os_azUy1BpGGrd39L21xBOWPZ0H272Zi89eGWDrePDTG_lJ3yEXkwposC1DGEw00WOaebIwm9of/s1600/IMG_4248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1376" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimuhd5yPbrdO6d_zQVbXqfZNB4Ciqwd9IDx8U0F5DjudrOBArpA4qb0x8dflW79Q_V0Os_azUy1BpGGrd39L21xBOWPZ0H272Zi89eGWDrePDTG_lJ3yEXkwposC1DGEw00WOaebIwm9of/s640/IMG_4248.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhCQ2n8nZb2Ic2Pm_Ofi0GLsYZX9rtt-HExeckXiJv8UfwBV2kar5wuuqJabGI922xQD00ixehxAFp2dNptOnwP1MV5erzpEaHo_SxXZJIn0c8m-t12qBxLBiNYUYWgGTsPGGjIAh0grFQ/s1600/DSCF1296.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhCQ2n8nZb2Ic2Pm_Ofi0GLsYZX9rtt-HExeckXiJv8UfwBV2kar5wuuqJabGI922xQD00ixehxAFp2dNptOnwP1MV5erzpEaHo_SxXZJIn0c8m-t12qBxLBiNYUYWgGTsPGGjIAh0grFQ/s320/DSCF1296.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And finally there it was - the physical destination of this<br />
journey </td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVR0m2cO0ebXRTI_-p6EJDaTsh79rYSVhA1zPHFEvyhtKZtsOmwOSGjDHGP0lIrhf9zTRwIa7f8pnuduRDpP6XJkE8Fvr-QmzDEV0pCAZZCe2dKqTwyGsdYYpT_j67j19MqIDoVmQOwX6p/s1600/IMG_4246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVR0m2cO0ebXRTI_-p6EJDaTsh79rYSVhA1zPHFEvyhtKZtsOmwOSGjDHGP0lIrhf9zTRwIa7f8pnuduRDpP6XJkE8Fvr-QmzDEV0pCAZZCe2dKqTwyGsdYYpT_j67j19MqIDoVmQOwX6p/s200/IMG_4246.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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Now our way was marked with arrows and the occasional scallop shell embedded in the pavement. Pilrgims were dotted about, but still not many on this route and our journey right to the cathedral was still as special and quiet as it had been for the last 1242km. Finally there it was... looming out of the mist - the spires of the cathedral of Santiago itself. It was as exciting as I had hoped and as we saw it - we were yet again on the cobbles of an old road! It took us down to where a river ran through the town, with more medieval bridges crossing it - amazing they were still being used by modern traffic - and then up, up and more up - quite steeply, toward the cathedral itself which was of course now difficult to see behind the buildings of the city. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWRifVzAoKmf8d4kGTrtYmF5Ih5uLJCfMHHr6C0p7G6-LQG_i75Du5ZBR4BThJcxf1ct5P1RWoJSF__NT0jU5BdIzzhkCL4dq00ZcUbfZt_2WMRYiunIhWQ1wIGjWs_06zLC7t1GrGD581/s1600/IMG_4250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWRifVzAoKmf8d4kGTrtYmF5Ih5uLJCfMHHr6C0p7G6-LQG_i75Du5ZBR4BThJcxf1ct5P1RWoJSF__NT0jU5BdIzzhkCL4dq00ZcUbfZt_2WMRYiunIhWQ1wIGjWs_06zLC7t1GrGD581/s320/IMG_4250.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No idea if this was the right route for the<br />
Levante/Via de la Plata, but it didn't seem<br />
to matter for now all roads lead to the<br />
cathedral</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbeMQKP3tUpm0Hoj9gk0ajvafs6Ik9vV1Az2DM1jNjRiQhEfs1CoKk5PGYQgTO_31cknvFlK6_e-YJNgJIQgwKPCX_ad-JWby3DqxS3Cs4DNbS7So2kz4N9DiLXFrcn_pubWXOIVJsE3Ma/s1600/IMG_4253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbeMQKP3tUpm0Hoj9gk0ajvafs6Ik9vV1Az2DM1jNjRiQhEfs1CoKk5PGYQgTO_31cknvFlK6_e-YJNgJIQgwKPCX_ad-JWby3DqxS3Cs4DNbS7So2kz4N9DiLXFrcn_pubWXOIVJsE3Ma/s200/IMG_4253.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peeking from behind other<br />
buildings</td></tr>
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Now, of all times - the arrows stopped - not a single direction in sight! No - surely not... maybe they think, oh now you are in Santiago, you can see the cathedral so you won't need markers! But yes, we do! We dithered and wandered and ambled about and eventually just had to resort to using Google Maps and navigating our way in along any route - although we did find old buildings as of course we are in the old part of the city and I am sure pilgrims would still have come along any of these roads. </div>
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On entering the square, it is a momentous occasion. Initially we can in at the back and were still in awe of the buildings... we took photos and were excited and impressed, but on turning the corner of the building - wow - there are no words for the grandeur on all sides, not just the cathedral, but the government building and the old pilgrim hospital (now the Parador) as well... and there, dominating the whole plaza - the main portico. It is the most magnificent cathedral I have ever visited. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWEZVBWaIysG_m8KYJN9fObO3Y3aftW9gC6SCdCfKhJdBj2WRUvFEo3bVVJd85bu14ugq0UQjigUjZ9y_cu0r25oDitLSh6PYnG5Fpu-GGbC_zLAmuH-KzAerfoVnfl-07IYddY46Fx_Uu/s1600/IMG_4268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="419" data-original-width="1600" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWEZVBWaIysG_m8KYJN9fObO3Y3aftW9gC6SCdCfKhJdBj2WRUvFEo3bVVJd85bu14ugq0UQjigUjZ9y_cu0r25oDitLSh6PYnG5Fpu-GGbC_zLAmuH-KzAerfoVnfl-07IYddY46Fx_Uu/s640/IMG_4268.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Panorama of the whole square including the parador - sort of left but central</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_4vn8C4ve5FvehABKFHoNkmJd70kD0qwPcnvgzXZb6q00D9obN7ieNBtYiiPpaY2S8Ew3qBFMCUoDitriBAgnV3WaxZJPSrdsXMnRTTduBIg8wGLWkPBrkhScuiQQbNd_ChyphenhypheniXT_RAiXh/s1600/IMG_4272.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1376" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_4vn8C4ve5FvehABKFHoNkmJd70kD0qwPcnvgzXZb6q00D9obN7ieNBtYiiPpaY2S8Ew3qBFMCUoDitriBAgnV3WaxZJPSrdsXMnRTTduBIg8wGLWkPBrkhScuiQQbNd_ChyphenhypheniXT_RAiXh/s640/IMG_4272.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main portico of the cathedral</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrival of the Robertson Male</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzhsvE0XP2iVoYJMmVVvf4dB1qDM3UNlLbruLBLjo0p_KVGJUYtGtpHic9sIBXdNoJ3vzl3y__m83Stioe8ldPXO4GfK4DOtXosfDhEs-BJBcLBHlCHy8jN2CG0lSsuIz-LwzsFyNevvGt/s1600/IMG_4260.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzhsvE0XP2iVoYJMmVVvf4dB1qDM3UNlLbruLBLjo0p_KVGJUYtGtpHic9sIBXdNoJ3vzl3y__m83Stioe8ldPXO4GfK4DOtXosfDhEs-BJBcLBHlCHy8jN2CG0lSsuIz-LwzsFyNevvGt/s200/IMG_4260.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When I very first arrived<br />
at the back of the cathedral</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoorhou-PITF-BBWvoUYipD8YFStMnWT9aqjgRiQHBs5y3h52JzdagrFiUdZSMcIz6lvQrkTxo8yG9g4223tjKoac69rHgbj1zo-bPuSDiYT_6BHRxxhkYMt_Tm66kMIKowi-e0kQbfWaw/s1600/IMG_4281.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="487" data-original-width="1600" height="194" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoorhou-PITF-BBWvoUYipD8YFStMnWT9aqjgRiQHBs5y3h52JzdagrFiUdZSMcIz6lvQrkTxo8yG9g4223tjKoac69rHgbj1zo-bPuSDiYT_6BHRxxhkYMt_Tm66kMIKowi-e0kQbfWaw/s640/IMG_4281.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love this view of the square - it really gives a good impression of how it looks and the grandeur - taken from<br />
outside the Parador</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIQe4JOn7_RN38E3vk8ur0ShmnZlnJ2pys0Lw4r3svB-6iVaHA5u8w8ExbARJrdHNdwysiawWlT0VEEdPR0_qXpdXIAvqVjV0LGe29hn790ZUuWlr0YoIGi3jUWjW6PLgw1V1DFE38HbKQ/s1600/IMG_4298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIQe4JOn7_RN38E3vk8ur0ShmnZlnJ2pys0Lw4r3svB-6iVaHA5u8w8ExbARJrdHNdwysiawWlT0VEEdPR0_qXpdXIAvqVjV0LGe29hn790ZUuWlr0YoIGi3jUWjW6PLgw1V1DFE38HbKQ/s320/IMG_4298.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St James</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9h937kAn8KvhzBTPLmJUwOxc4gJmRJMHaVOunL3t66N1wSVqOt7FDBE3BBZLayx9SLFdG2ngZm71bV_0BrB5yQ7-EqVxcJRZ1h6-p9Q5TA39Puj6YTcYSbckrdEI6-SzjHV3XxLdbE5ML/s1600/IMG_4282.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9h937kAn8KvhzBTPLmJUwOxc4gJmRJMHaVOunL3t66N1wSVqOt7FDBE3BBZLayx9SLFdG2ngZm71bV_0BrB5yQ7-EqVxcJRZ1h6-p9Q5TA39Puj6YTcYSbckrdEI6-SzjHV3XxLdbE5ML/s320/IMG_4282.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiYevlRshy0NRj7uOv7bc1BqTOdSp6_59Y6tIJaqJbbQ4AA5lBKc3NmsBVIetE-8pXDBoJMCVmnYJMRr-CwnK8WgFwRpsOmPQmt8fey6kRtFn3FLlMjniXeM61hriwIYeBbDdtzij1Iqyc/s1600/IMG_4283.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiYevlRshy0NRj7uOv7bc1BqTOdSp6_59Y6tIJaqJbbQ4AA5lBKc3NmsBVIetE-8pXDBoJMCVmnYJMRr-CwnK8WgFwRpsOmPQmt8fey6kRtFn3FLlMjniXeM61hriwIYeBbDdtzij1Iqyc/s200/IMG_4283.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cross of St James at the main<br />
portico</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYbvZDdAy4kZ6EfxK2TngBZ2kfhkn9nG_JhJVyfZAhywEsmzvezmHUkURoE3FJXYTNw6-j0_hlPZwuHRe63_ex4aAdRiMd6q3ork41eqEvyJXb5MzZJKD3l313CuNg7LAAD-XSgKh_2EDZ/s1600/IMG_4289.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYbvZDdAy4kZ6EfxK2TngBZ2kfhkn9nG_JhJVyfZAhywEsmzvezmHUkURoE3FJXYTNw6-j0_hlPZwuHRe63_ex4aAdRiMd6q3ork41eqEvyJXb5MzZJKD3l313CuNg7LAAD-XSgKh_2EDZ/s320/IMG_4289.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The botofumiero - not doing any swinging<br />
at the moment! All pilgrim masses are off<br />
in the Cathedral while they complete<br />
renovation work - it is now in St Frances'<br />
Convent not far from the Pilgrim Office<br />
(They were due for completion 2020 but<br />
who knows at the moment of writing)</td></tr>
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We did a little tourist shopping around the square but soon headed to the Pilgrim Office. That in itself is a bit of a shock to the system! So many pilgrims arrive you have to get a number for your place in the queue - the guy we met outside the cathedra, rather odd in chatting to us but glad he did, hd let us know the score - he had had to wait 6 hours!! We headed down, checked out bags after collecting our number (they have a storage area in the office grounds) and then decided togo and eat and shop. I was 595 and the estimated waiting time was "only" 3 hours but the system is great. You scan the ticket to get the pilgrim website and watch the numbers progress until you are around 30 from your own. At that point, you return and queue up for the electronic version of "el ultimo". <br />
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You are now able to wait in the corridor leading to the desks where the volunteers will check your credential and fill in your Compostela and/or certificate of distance. You can have both but can only collect a Compostela if you have completed at least the last 100km on foot (200km by bicycle) and have completed it for spiritual or religious reasons. There is apparently an exception - and that is if you are a resident of somewhere like Finisterre where the distance to Santiago is less than 100km. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgekWnUhJkr9ps4RWkF9s_-12kaGCjbICrP4zSz0FULJtxHxBI2gN4T3c7caUk7ejNeydrZ8haANe9PdixJJv_idhZxl540K0uUf1L0lesxB60h2DKUv3bQi_YMA9lGP7PGS2RM-2dQFw8L/s1600/IMG_4290.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgekWnUhJkr9ps4RWkF9s_-12kaGCjbICrP4zSz0FULJtxHxBI2gN4T3c7caUk7ejNeydrZ8haANe9PdixJJv_idhZxl540K0uUf1L0lesxB60h2DKUv3bQi_YMA9lGP7PGS2RM-2dQFw8L/s320/IMG_4290.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4VDpbbuCB9rJ39CpcIOhGzAfVZJbhLhu3H1goZlTP66dXsWnOFhrjjS81ogiuGDG5OMUKtFlHY91_vkktU7GFjy7HzTjjCi_12Gkx7SnxStba0nBGVoxdomA5ysIS32hcqZumVzPjtxvk/s1600/IMG_4288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4VDpbbuCB9rJ39CpcIOhGzAfVZJbhLhu3H1goZlTP66dXsWnOFhrjjS81ogiuGDG5OMUKtFlHY91_vkktU7GFjy7HzTjjCi_12Gkx7SnxStba0nBGVoxdomA5ysIS32hcqZumVzPjtxvk/s200/IMG_4288.JPG" width="150" /></a>Once queuing I was both excited and for some strange reason, nervous! I don't know why but it was a slightly anxious moment - maybe they would not give me the Compostela? I didn't have 2 sellos per day as stated in the info although I had walked from Valencia and kept a diary, photos and got many stamps along the way sometimes several on one day - surely they would realise I really had walked it! As noted earlier, I later discovered as outlined earlier, the two stamp rule from 2019 is ifor those only walking the last 100km, but I didn't know that at the time - and if you break the route into more stages (you don't have to do the whole lot continuously as I thought) you need to get a stamp from the same place you left off when you resume. At Reina Lupa I had been given two stamps anyway one for arrival and one for leaving - she dated them accordingly the night before as they too aren't up at the early hour most pilgrims leave (this is Spain!)... but it shows that even the albergues don't fully know the latest rules and how they apply. I stood in the queue armed with everything - my 3 credentials, my photo and written diaries, my FB photos and mala - por si las moscas as they say here (just in case!)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpbGgyHwBEHGdy_y6fJ2uD3x8Idc-Nj47W1bU-IYoXLVjNEaM2-5iGSla9jjlds6EjGGzCAbeer1Fbucj6VSQHSsVgRK7Jmhe6_kcLGN-jvzpdk7JyZAASMrcRlTzUMZO68pDCpB-pnt5Y/s1600/IMG_4299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1376" data-original-width="774" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpbGgyHwBEHGdy_y6fJ2uD3x8Idc-Nj47W1bU-IYoXLVjNEaM2-5iGSla9jjlds6EjGGzCAbeer1Fbucj6VSQHSsVgRK7Jmhe6_kcLGN-jvzpdk7JyZAASMrcRlTzUMZO68pDCpB-pnt5Y/s320/IMG_4299.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lighting a candle at the end of<br />
my Camino</td></tr>
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When my number came up on the screen it was for Desk 3. A lovely lady who really did take a long look at all 3 passports (!) dealt with my Camino Levante journey. All three passports have to be stamped as completed. Although my first walk ever was 31st August 2012, the first official stamp was 10th October, 2012 and so that is the date that goes onto the Compostela. They then calculate the distance, but I must have been the only peregrina from the Levante for a while (or certainly one that had completed the whole route) as they had to specifically work it out and may lady had to call another who was more experienced, to help. They then have to write that I took the "Levante... followed by the Via de la Plata" as that is what I walked with the one joining the other. <br />
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They count the sellos and check the daily dates stamped to make sure they are consecutive. This does not mean the days have to be exactly one after the other - there can be breaks but the next one must follow on and be for the "next" part of the camino. You can not for example walk a week of the camino in La Mancha, then go back and walk another section in the Valencian region and then go back up and do a bit in Galicia and so on. You might complete the whole camino this way - but it is not in a "sequence" and this apparently IS a criteria.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFZ5z7uiY8SGEXdHN2zSWqDS6v7n7Yq2q7KliIku8GdoSDoFlDTnyP9be1R5zRmrV6Yzt6x3yuxUzKrTbW8kt8wMJPOP4uRUb53X20Uh0UU_-vVJ6ev40xj_bYqJxhrbh24IalN1gtM3mJ/s1600/IMG_4301.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFZ5z7uiY8SGEXdHN2zSWqDS6v7n7Yq2q7KliIku8GdoSDoFlDTnyP9be1R5zRmrV6Yzt6x3yuxUzKrTbW8kt8wMJPOP4uRUb53X20Uh0UU_-vVJ6ev40xj_bYqJxhrbh24IalN1gtM3mJ/s320/IMG_4301.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garden on the way to the Pilgrim Office, where many pilgrims<br />
await their turn to queue for the Compostela. Lovely lunches<br />
shady and cool - relaxing moments with a cold beer.</td></tr>
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Finally, once all this is complete, the pilgrim is asked to sign to state that they have walked for spiritual purposes or other as stated and they record the pilgrim's home address, I put Kenninghall of course as I have moved three times since I started the Levante! <br />
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My name on the Compostela as the nearest they can make to Tamasine in Latin as the religious and spiritual ones are in Latin is Thomasian - and the certificate of distance recorded 1242km, more than I had expected. I think the Levante guidebook states 1205km. This certificate is in Spanish. Both are beautifully illuminated scrolls - and I do not begrudge the €3.00 for each scroll and I was not going to put it in my travel bag without a sturdy tube adorned with scallop shells - €2.00. Everyone is delighted and many take them out to look at them in the streets and photograph themselves with them outside the cathedral. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmqm94f8blNJ8oi4piNA4M5swx9HJ62Q1ezC49wX8RUxV5tQEIcDe2CnPgPeEDTOnXsdonxv7Ay-yD2TPyH66f1xzivHM1l_09bnK5fjxtI27Hjyt9FfLqtl8YAituQcTEU75liiQotofN/s1600/IMG_4303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1376" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmqm94f8blNJ8oi4piNA4M5swx9HJ62Q1ezC49wX8RUxV5tQEIcDe2CnPgPeEDTOnXsdonxv7Ay-yD2TPyH66f1xzivHM1l_09bnK5fjxtI27Hjyt9FfLqtl8YAituQcTEU75liiQotofN/s640/IMG_4303.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Certificate of distance (left) and Compostela (right)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdvNjBAMl-tkN-I_HLFDa2wJzm-nhRZohYiqDoJAN1ohoFC3lhRlRlWK4E4Ee9Fz9QWzUUL69U17cjydDYuciFIHlr0CpoeySTJBMHr-q4R395VGgeVOXZhFvxQR7_IhAMvV7zED6emg9a/s1600/IMG_4304.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1376" data-original-width="774" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdvNjBAMl-tkN-I_HLFDa2wJzm-nhRZohYiqDoJAN1ohoFC3lhRlRlWK4E4Ee9Fz9QWzUUL69U17cjydDYuciFIHlr0CpoeySTJBMHr-q4R395VGgeVOXZhFvxQR7_IhAMvV7zED6emg9a/s640/IMG_4304.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside the pilgrim office with my certificates, the diaries, <br />
prayers from the Dhama centre and Robertson Mala</td></tr>
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As we left the pilgrim office, sadly there were pilgrims who were just arriving, too late to queue for their certificates that day as no more numbers were being issued. They would have to wait for their turn the next day, but for those who were flying home, they would end up leaving without their Compostela. I couldn't believe it! I was so glad that I had planned an extra day in case of delay, things going wrong or to just relax and enjoy the city. I can not imagine doing that long journey and not being able to obtain the Compostela. At the airport I heard two ladies saying that they did not get their certificate and when asked if it was because they hadn't done the distance, they said they had but didn't get it because... but I couldn't hear their answer. The gentleman talking to them said - they are strict, aren't they?! So I am wondering if they were doing only the 100km and had not got two stamps each day - but I will never know. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfIsTEkOyfgSFyd5seYqfM17HRW4Kopcn0PmQvL5b9Fe6h103sQYlmURYmQRYHGj5J6zjRkkXWnio1wIzwkIyoQ5sY34mCAu0eZdcOkEItvFzyYbLgwnYO_keyNeRagu0JyxVd8gV4gvrl/s1600/IMG_4326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfIsTEkOyfgSFyd5seYqfM17HRW4Kopcn0PmQvL5b9Fe6h103sQYlmURYmQRYHGj5J6zjRkkXWnio1wIzwkIyoQ5sY34mCAu0eZdcOkEItvFzyYbLgwnYO_keyNeRagu0JyxVd8gV4gvrl/s320/IMG_4326.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the door of the Parador looking over<br />
to the Cathedral</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG_lnJiQ_GlyPanbP0BfxeMLue6qjqvwfq4J7RyiBh7xddXqK9-Oc-enf9uuTeZhTfVxQ0WSE0-ovOL9Msh-YU-YyCXJhT6QkLeohjUDZdONGcZcra8-IVLkS7xkHewwlS4w7NQ2WuICau/s1600/IMG_4313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG_lnJiQ_GlyPanbP0BfxeMLue6qjqvwfq4J7RyiBh7xddXqK9-Oc-enf9uuTeZhTfVxQ0WSE0-ovOL9Msh-YU-YyCXJhT6QkLeohjUDZdONGcZcra8-IVLkS7xkHewwlS4w7NQ2WuICau/s320/IMG_4313.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Courtyard on the way to our room</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRn5KgiHpl40u3STMQd8CtgvUDdS2BINDia9U9DpxGV_hjHHFOcJtnNG9SOXwIJ81YatE9IgtdFNS9KGJ6TCrTk8ltPbrSgpKGnelthiRYn30ZHUIMGGDyb-jujti7jh-1AQD9Z0JTMS5/s1600/IMG_4321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRn5KgiHpl40u3STMQd8CtgvUDdS2BINDia9U9DpxGV_hjHHFOcJtnNG9SOXwIJ81YatE9IgtdFNS9KGJ6TCrTk8ltPbrSgpKGnelthiRYn30ZHUIMGGDyb-jujti7jh-1AQD9Z0JTMS5/s320/IMG_4321.JPG" width="240" /></a>We headed to the Parador - the Hostal Dos Reis Católicos and wow, magnificent and the oldest hotel in the world apparently! This was my gift to us both and a surprise for Michael. We checked in and they were fabulously professional and treated everyone equally - no matter how you had arrived or how shabby (in our pilgrim walking garb and later hire car) or porsche. We left everything in our amazing room (which seemed miles away through cloistered courtyards and inner gardens) and it was hard to tear ourselves away to go and find a taxi. I just wanted to see everything, read everything and absorb the amazing building. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU028UKq3peUp2N1F3713-aSed1MAhY25ITCOoGBRJSQ3r4DUcZeblcQAdv2BoU-eBLasQFLQpE5sd-ZURsi19o2fcy_uxc01OnQjJzX-oMXRSoWLZLE0bmKgIGrcaFYpRiU0hiPDf9ygy/s1600/IMG_4310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU028UKq3peUp2N1F3713-aSed1MAhY25ITCOoGBRJSQ3r4DUcZeblcQAdv2BoU-eBLasQFLQpE5sd-ZURsi19o2fcy_uxc01OnQjJzX-oMXRSoWLZLE0bmKgIGrcaFYpRiU0hiPDf9ygy/s200/IMG_4310.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our room - all the furniture<br />
is also lovely and<br />
many are antiques.</td></tr>
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We found a taxi and headed back to Reina Lupa and Carmiña who invited us in to join her and the family for lunch. That was such a lovely gesture and we wish that we weren't both tired and booked into the amazing Parador on the square. What a wonderful opportunity it would have been to join a Spanish family and share their hospitality and attempt to join the conversation. She had brought her daughter out to practice her English (I said I was looking forward to a very long, hot soak in the bath) and her husband Bruno to see us again - there were kisses all around and we said we would be sure to recommend the albergue and wished them all well. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtCE7EiZm70GH_xAZRfTaaazmOvIy-GfBMpcBZBwfoSn_v9uVRQvOAJS-i9y2h0xmD9lQDWVRr71Kews9C0niEMNOWcyIjCi9oEy0Z4ltQx3XdeDcOn8nP9q_LPH3JUrnKGaORv9f-ROhc/s1600/IMG_4316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtCE7EiZm70GH_xAZRfTaaazmOvIy-GfBMpcBZBwfoSn_v9uVRQvOAJS-i9y2h0xmD9lQDWVRr71Kews9C0niEMNOWcyIjCi9oEy0Z4ltQx3XdeDcOn8nP9q_LPH3JUrnKGaORv9f-ROhc/s320/IMG_4316.JPG" width="320" /></a>Back at the hotel for a wonderful rest, a coffee and pastry in the sunshine, a fabulous bath and a little time to explore the courtyards and history of the building. The whole place is filled with old furniture and collectables - the more expensive rooms are decorated with antiques, but even our room had old style furniture and a medieval feel to it - and the walls and corridors were adorned with artefacts, objects, relics and religious icons from the old hospital. This hospital would care for the pilgrims that arrived sick or injured after months of traveling and who were sometimes beaten by bandits. The hospital was also set up to take in the abandoned children of the poor and so it ws mainly an orphanage - wow, possibly the most spectacular one ever! It is in this way, that it has been acting as a hotel for many years - in fact since 1480 and is believed to be the oldest hotel in the world that is still operational as such. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUlDZ9VDmRKDY8Q2eC_6KP6Pm3X8AAGKsJ4qMyUPKoX_CMhOaoAoRvB_0DUGxT2Ky4yTpIq2FNOeldPHXAZrwQ-l7hlGaSoQwL_bVmv9N3ZFcban0HmHhjDjqrotXPm026QJIIMYBZVDC-/s1600/IMG_4324.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUlDZ9VDmRKDY8Q2eC_6KP6Pm3X8AAGKsJ4qMyUPKoX_CMhOaoAoRvB_0DUGxT2Ky4yTpIq2FNOeldPHXAZrwQ-l7hlGaSoQwL_bVmv9N3ZFcban0HmHhjDjqrotXPm026QJIIMYBZVDC-/s200/IMG_4324.JPG" width="200" /></a>It is truly a superb place, worth all of its 5*s and a fabulous experience. I would thoroughly recommend it if it is in your budget and I would definitely plan to stay again - but ideally two nights if I can afford it! I could only afford one night this time, at €218.00. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIOvFwi71ZE_Xzi5P49z0DYboCbOmHrq-iMF2NIalwfBPBjngk6OKifSBLKsIQuc73jeiLtNA1qmaFqkkXRIp3PzhTqT21cm-J-eVP9MvQ7BhfASd0-RjeNOZDofCBD5YfVokcunD9vTKV/s1600/IMG_4349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIOvFwi71ZE_Xzi5P49z0DYboCbOmHrq-iMF2NIalwfBPBjngk6OKifSBLKsIQuc73jeiLtNA1qmaFqkkXRIp3PzhTqT21cm-J-eVP9MvQ7BhfASd0-RjeNOZDofCBD5YfVokcunD9vTKV/s320/IMG_4349.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinner, in the vaults! </td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0nUPU-BYjLmIakFyexPIP43yslE_9iEKBT5XwZGwAiDCLfSb1RnI8kpmTSBy1VrS1eNPYqLoBY2Gf-eW3FmX8wK6pd_8ei2nh1NZ4JmZxSHoCI_dEdlNmO1D0d6s2m7bkTslCMeeSrY0h/s1600/IMG_4352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0nUPU-BYjLmIakFyexPIP43yslE_9iEKBT5XwZGwAiDCLfSb1RnI8kpmTSBy1VrS1eNPYqLoBY2Gf-eW3FmX8wK6pd_8ei2nh1NZ4JmZxSHoCI_dEdlNmO1D0d6s2m7bkTslCMeeSrY0h/s200/IMG_4352.JPG" width="200" /></a>We also decided that we would absolutely treat ourselves to a luxury dinner in the Parador dining room. Suckling pig on the menu and sea urchin, clinched it! It was beautiful, the food stunning and it was worth every penny - €111.00 including wine and three courses, a divine luxury but actually good value considering the next night was €63.00 for nothing particularly special and served "cold" by the time we got it. Rather a sad and disappointing last night meal, but we have to forget that as the climax (other than completing the Camino of course) was definitely the Parador and our celebratory meal. Lunch had been at the wonderful Caracoles (Snails) restaurant which also promised conejo asado, one of my favourite things in Spain, but sadly they are shut on a Monday evening as we had planned to go there the following night... however, we promised to return! I had the amazing and spicy caracoles for lunch and Michael a fish type bisque - both were divine and we spent the time discussing and commiserating over Brexit with a couple of Germans who were then heading on to Finisterre. <br />
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Michael had an amazing fish dish, bisque (again - but he loves it) preceded by a rice and clam dish. The bisque was hake and prawns with a Galician broth - so delicious and all local. Mine was gratinated sea urchin - mouth watering and soooo delicious. Galicia is well known for its sea food and rightly so. It has D.O after the dishes - denominación origén. My main - another of my all time favourites - cochonillo. Just superb. The wine - of course it had to be sparkling to celebrate - Galician carva. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpKhTaPv3dt5-oSTDPU2708mqz3IQncTH7IZMXGzdtueXDucFBFWCCP_hYMPXomHikWaS7HxteJ4WpXfw0hbOpaed5yVmcveJHDVvGE1CTojQR-fXjyEkO-d2mPnT4e8aqEm7iRuj3E5TZ/s1600/IMG_4358.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1376" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpKhTaPv3dt5-oSTDPU2708mqz3IQncTH7IZMXGzdtueXDucFBFWCCP_hYMPXomHikWaS7HxteJ4WpXfw0hbOpaed5yVmcveJHDVvGE1CTojQR-fXjyEkO-d2mPnT4e8aqEm7iRuj3E5TZ/s640/IMG_4358.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Government building outside the Parador and opposite the Cathedral</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvKz9MiR5M3yr_6SnbEc1oJu2XvSAaB66r-vINqquypHa03V_yNmy0eY4Jy6T_WkorJQ6YHZ-3PcmsGlrYb_PT2CZtPZ7fL1-mnM5DMqppSpAqnfHlooDyEXTy_2V84w-JoQC7dCtfpW5j/s1600/IMG_4343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvKz9MiR5M3yr_6SnbEc1oJu2XvSAaB66r-vINqquypHa03V_yNmy0eY4Jy6T_WkorJQ6YHZ-3PcmsGlrYb_PT2CZtPZ7fL1-mnM5DMqppSpAqnfHlooDyEXTy_2V84w-JoQC7dCtfpW5j/s320/IMG_4343.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cathedral at night</td></tr>
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We took some night photos of the square and inside the hotel courtyards and headed to bed for a really good night's sleep. After today and after the end of this very long camino, in this wonderful old building behind traditional shutters, nothing was waking us up until morning light. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4__CuG9QhJ64ZwMQByUBQpMtpa0jxxkRyQ0ZQSgfwrOGI8Y7gHBDiF6NX8yA5uKUMs6PyE9IOlY1KJF6S-lHSCb_5kOJirPBrA-EliObW54MLEedDhrsWU4X3mUv1vXT8ylIoZJIKOZHX/s1600/IMG_4342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4__CuG9QhJ64ZwMQByUBQpMtpa0jxxkRyQ0ZQSgfwrOGI8Y7gHBDiF6NX8yA5uKUMs6PyE9IOlY1KJF6S-lHSCb_5kOJirPBrA-EliObW54MLEedDhrsWU4X3mUv1vXT8ylIoZJIKOZHX/s320/IMG_4342.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our window</td></tr>
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Breakfast was also superb and one of the bets I have had in a hotel. Often fancy hotels have the most appalling breakfasts, it is not an easy meal to prepare well! It is usually the breakfast that lets the side down, but at the Parador, there was a whole range of fruits, fried eggs that were still soft, chorizos, cheeses, membrillos, pastries, breads, juices and other deliciousness.<br />
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Now we were ready to set off for the Pilgrim Mass at the convent of St Francisco and a day of exploring the city, visiting the Cathedral Museum (and taking the tour of the main Portico - well worth it!) and visiting St James himself. <br />
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<b>Santiago de Compostela - Monday 7th October, 2019.</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXO_CxWeQA6VCL1ccqGeFi4pl-SYw550rYNU__F7ikRae6mcfe8hX6mJ4ffHsn5ZasV2HeGnIsMhDYOcZBx6729mFQ6KgEUcVQPD5QBtHxrvfYbX3q4H6Pp_2kKoBZqsUKnOrfe5Vkhye7/s1600/IMG_4307.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXO_CxWeQA6VCL1ccqGeFi4pl-SYw550rYNU__F7ikRae6mcfe8hX6mJ4ffHsn5ZasV2HeGnIsMhDYOcZBx6729mFQ6KgEUcVQPD5QBtHxrvfYbX3q4H6Pp_2kKoBZqsUKnOrfe5Vkhye7/s320/IMG_4307.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Convent of St Frances - where the<br />
Pilgrim Mass is held until the Cathedral<br />
renovations are complete</td></tr>
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I had heard that the read out the names of the pilgrims who have arrived, but actually they just read out where they had come from. I guess, on days where 3,500 pilgrims arrive, it just wouldn't be possible so if I had thought about it I probably would have realised that it would be unrealistic to expect that to be true.<br />
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One of the nuns from the convent sang beautifully and the whole ceremony was actually an interesting and lovely experience - in fact making me think that attending church is actually quite helpful for learning a language as they speak very clearly and slowly. Most people are familiar with church speak, words from the Bible and so on, so it makes sense that this is also how people used to learn to read many years ago. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3FYdXXcyH-XNEXJtaOdMs6WYUV6_UBpK7RO-HFSrm8gEwrfGr_Cs_-WHpWahBGjUzyd8VGo-aEriao52ptufWVBbcDFfSTVY0E3RMjvcdVkt5nJRej6IIjn-1vTBpQSSy5Y3vaZvB1w70/s1600/IMG_4373.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1376" data-original-width="774" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3FYdXXcyH-XNEXJtaOdMs6WYUV6_UBpK7RO-HFSrm8gEwrfGr_Cs_-WHpWahBGjUzyd8VGo-aEriao52ptufWVBbcDFfSTVY0E3RMjvcdVkt5nJRej6IIjn-1vTBpQSSy5Y3vaZvB1w70/s320/IMG_4373.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pilgrim mass</td></tr>
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There were many pilgrims in attendance, many religious ones too - so taking the sacrament at the end was quite a spectacle and busy! I thought it would take them forever but with three priests it sped up the proceedings. Each group had someone from their confraternity speak, make them welcome and explain that there is a Mass in their own language each day at the Pilgrim Office Chapel. They also explain the there are options for counselling - a bit like a debriefing - for those who need it or wish to share thoughts, emotions and experiences at a deeper level or who just need to talk after their camino. It only struck me now how it is so important for so many and how much these modern day pilgrimages now seem to be needed. It makes sense why there is now a study going on to find out why people make pilgrimage in the 21st Century and why there are now as many people making the trip as in the Middle Ages. It also struck me how those who have walked for weeks and months alone must find it difficult at times to re-enter the real world again and how wonderful it is that the volunteers and friends of St James/Confraternities etc offer support to those who need it. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHYWRcBqREHQD8EBKoGjR3h9njKRwzsINflFlcLaG0HyeKj_e5BtZGOsRT7an9YWr19PjvO00xM8f_leXUI2y3bahSlr0p7s48dHARq1YwW64ZDyi4vQx_4tyslO3G8Scp8LDM1qXgG6f9/s1600/IMG_4371.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1376" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHYWRcBqREHQD8EBKoGjR3h9njKRwzsINflFlcLaG0HyeKj_e5BtZGOsRT7an9YWr19PjvO00xM8f_leXUI2y3bahSlr0p7s48dHARq1YwW64ZDyi4vQx_4tyslO3G8Scp8LDM1qXgG6f9/s640/IMG_4371.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the church at the Convent of San Francisco</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAsJNYkvCrBIV1ASWGGmB3VWUSFrr9SGl9WMOodjhfmM-noC4jNbn4t-ehQqQd1zSpv_4YEXaFxMuDq8iak7xx4B7Ktkdg3YdUVyi1Xvbydmpl4CYSivqeXupXoYfrgVPqHfl4291Xpck4/s1600/IMG_4331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAsJNYkvCrBIV1ASWGGmB3VWUSFrr9SGl9WMOodjhfmM-noC4jNbn4t-ehQqQd1zSpv_4YEXaFxMuDq8iak7xx4B7Ktkdg3YdUVyi1Xvbydmpl4CYSivqeXupXoYfrgVPqHfl4291Xpck4/s320/IMG_4331.JPG" width="240" /></a>From the mass, we headed to the Cathedral to "hug" the statue of St James. Apparently it brings luck. We thought we would touch the place where the pilgrims have placed their hands for centuries - thus making a hand shaped dent in the pillar for which it is famous. We had no idea where it was, although I was sure from the film The Way and the TV programme about the Camino Frances, that it was at the entrance somewhere, but we could not find it. I thought maybe then it would be near St James' tomb... but despite hugging St James (twice as M thought he must get lonely or else find it tough being hugged by people who just want something from him so we would just give him a hug to feel better)... we still did not locate the hand hole. We even entered and passed through the sepulchre twice - but still no dent in a pillar... hmmm, where is this famous pillar?!<br />
<br />
Michael went in search of an official to ask and - ahah... all was explained. It is no longer permitted to touch it and it is in the portico by the main door, so I was right that it is on a pillar at the entrance, but no one enters through the front door any more.. and the reasons for this we later discovered when taking the tour of the portico. The access to see it and the amazing architectural and sculptural work of the main portico is by entrance fee and guided tour only. This is done via the museum next to the main portico and it really is well worth it. The portico exhibits various decades of paint (visible) from 1188, 16th, 18th and 19th centuries. The figures of the angels are designed to make the fans more lifelike as the sun's rays catch them and the paint was coloured accordingly. It is quite fascinating and the videos in the museum reflect these changes which might not be possible to see during the live tour depending on the light conditions, but also because you need to see the changes in light from dark to light. <br />
<br />
We visited the museum first and learnt a lot about the cathedral and Mateo (c.1150 to 1200 or 1217) who was instrumental in the sculptures in particular in the Pórtico de la Gloria and the stone choir (which was torn down in 1603) at the time when it was built in the late 12th Century. <br />
<br />
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Master_Mateo<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh334ESSknpXjhSp7P5EtrXQS2269XaQRrcSnZ1aF2Xh2uNifQJSaTkWH_Ux339hibF2YAMSFlcaVn-cMnFmk4lnz76w5MSgNJCe3UUZb75biYOvH1SKf6qee4jQ_imnO6P8sbwU5BrXFEL/s1600/images-1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="194" data-original-width="259" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh334ESSknpXjhSp7P5EtrXQS2269XaQRrcSnZ1aF2Xh2uNifQJSaTkWH_Ux339hibF2YAMSFlcaVn-cMnFmk4lnz76w5MSgNJCe3UUZb75biYOvH1SKf6qee4jQ_imnO6P8sbwU5BrXFEL/s400/images-1.jpeg" width="400" /></a>Master Mateo sculpted all the faces to be different yet where St James appears as both pilgrim AND apostle, he is given the same face and features so that it is obviously him. The three arches have Christ at the centre of each and each tells a story of (arch 1) the Old Testament and the prophets (arch 2) of the New Testament - with Christ sitting on his human family tree (where the hand print is obvious and deep but destroying the carvings which is why pilgrims can no longer touch it) and his heavenly family above and (arch 3) of the apocalypse. The paint at the top of this column and especially on the church side is really bright because there has been less damage by light and pollution over the centuries. Christ is on the top of the central column but also imposing into the main arch above him. <br />
<br />
The statue of Christ looks all in proportion but is 3m high! The figures over the central Christ are all tuning musical instruments and these are the elders, preparing to play in the apocalypse and then there is the final arch of the apocalypse itself displaying all the demons. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXNoO5DK7eJb7lQzE-t2J-glKUB-jXjncQs8CxD9Q3VeiWeMte4voTyDLuyvPu9xZ2e7o992JhfdejZi31AQSU-nSaE_OUYmZvzHWHpC9tj622-BdydFjLGGD_cnr-NQ8jh8so7uckQH5l/s1600/Portico_da_Gloria_11-17.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="146" data-original-width="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXNoO5DK7eJb7lQzE-t2J-glKUB-jXjncQs8CxD9Q3VeiWeMte4voTyDLuyvPu9xZ2e7o992JhfdejZi31AQSU-nSaE_OUYmZvzHWHpC9tj622-BdydFjLGGD_cnr-NQ8jh8so7uckQH5l/s1600/Portico_da_Gloria_11-17.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tuning their instruments</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbfkNvdPD2u_6XoPR4NPE5zbbjJhStOXzfeR70flBioXN1nx-ebeQ4nWgcaKHkhVPc-GDjlaXYH__22SS4oveF7o6AorcpzkXltDZrO27uk13DMoJypSkLoRCcuDXNEAkA-gxZZOwRvMSZ/s1600/Unknown-3.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="272" data-original-width="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbfkNvdPD2u_6XoPR4NPE5zbbjJhStOXzfeR70flBioXN1nx-ebeQ4nWgcaKHkhVPc-GDjlaXYH__22SS4oveF7o6AorcpzkXltDZrO27uk13DMoJypSkLoRCcuDXNEAkA-gxZZOwRvMSZ/s1600/Unknown-3.jpeg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The hand print...!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
What is fascinating is that there used to be the three arches but none had doors - this was Mateo's idea in the Romanesque church (the current one is actually Baroque) and it was so that all those outside could see and read the story and everyone would see it as they entered. Both rich and poor people could see it form the outside, they didn't even have to enter, and as it is pictorial, one didn't have to be able to read to understand the message. Mateo is the sculptor responsible for the way Christ is views - as beatific, kind and gentle - the compassionate Christ. Prior to this he was always shown as threatened and severe. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-YtPTATcqu4zgBrxEess86xPYeZ1N3EASn5exVOHIrpMj-mDccTIp0Ewciq9IJ7VavSdz_JrjAPlarEFWxXFw_AxIj89rZSpIDQ8MkKQO86H5bB18seC6j77DDeRe-XDxs2T73NZaAV2w/s1600/IMG_4328.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-YtPTATcqu4zgBrxEess86xPYeZ1N3EASn5exVOHIrpMj-mDccTIp0Ewciq9IJ7VavSdz_JrjAPlarEFWxXFw_AxIj89rZSpIDQ8MkKQO86H5bB18seC6j77DDeRe-XDxs2T73NZaAV2w/s200/IMG_4328.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cast by the glass door at the<br />
Parador</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
St James is on the central column, welcoming pilgrims and to get a really detailed and interesting description of the Portico (pretty much what we had during our tour) the wikipedia entry below gives a lot of the info. We were not allowed to take photographs inside the portico but these are taken from other trip advisors/wikipedia etc and from images (not always clear who to credit and I think are freely shared on the web) taken in times past where photography and the touching of the hand print were allowed. On the opposite side of the pillar, there is another figure - Mateo himself! Cheeky! So modest ;-)<br />
<br />
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portico_of_Glory<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn4fBQF6zLShVAha7fHhsxMBS5RKhaQgLCwTwcG0YL8Q7v5WXU_xt77Tm2qseijBBHu_gEbaGuNxZu2tZUPYqETzHxC_v3BD0gY-ewiemnDoxSliIJze-qWtqKuHUEveqTR0JEkQ-dI1po/s1600/IMG_4317.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn4fBQF6zLShVAha7fHhsxMBS5RKhaQgLCwTwcG0YL8Q7v5WXU_xt77Tm2qseijBBHu_gEbaGuNxZu2tZUPYqETzHxC_v3BD0gY-ewiemnDoxSliIJze-qWtqKuHUEveqTR0JEkQ-dI1po/s400/IMG_4317.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From inside the Parador - apparently each day, they still offer free<br />
accommodation and food to the first 10 pilgrims at the pilgrim office<br />
getting their Compostela... I wonder how many know about this?!<br />
We certainly didn't... next time I might walk in the night before haha!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Once pilgrims had touched the hand print and made a wish, they then had to go around the back of the column to knock their heads 3 x on the statue at the back - thought to be that of Mateo himself.. apparently in order to receive his wisdom! As I said, modest indeed! <br />
<br />
From here we headed off to do a spot of shopping - destination Decathlon as I do like their sports and hiking clothing and there are some long sleeved shirts I particularly like to work in as they are slightly longer at the back - great in cold weather outdoors. I want to get these embroidered with my Leadchanges logo. I couldn't find all I wanted and my foot was really causing me pain as was my knee (maybe worse actually) from having favoured my ankle, but I still made some nice purchases and was glad to head back to the Parador to check out and find our new hotel for the last night. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijQ3KGrZOoMUDIU9VzG_I6SBOeWKz8bc6IduIXdf0SeMXwLTyUuOqKgTuEjLEIUNturu9nYLfU9m9b2JQbc0wqyRMAEconZgBUv6Iuj8W9-URejaEP7wQUptt9S077721QFJetxl0xLq4P/s1600/IMG_4329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijQ3KGrZOoMUDIU9VzG_I6SBOeWKz8bc6IduIXdf0SeMXwLTyUuOqKgTuEjLEIUNturu9nYLfU9m9b2JQbc0wqyRMAEconZgBUv6Iuj8W9-URejaEP7wQUptt9S077721QFJetxl0xLq4P/s200/IMG_4329.JPG" width="150" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5GUIzLkFoIKHq4dqYCWbWAdE5cTftJ2ZhAZ5hgN7jiS_wWHOQTwM8SIJrbaBK_lxsHelQ0m555dXuTO05GZW2epnkPOQXmLMK1B4bAJmHes7lrMvmQtFmSyxHWEPE7QB37Euh_cmn0umP/s1600/IMG_4325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5GUIzLkFoIKHq4dqYCWbWAdE5cTftJ2ZhAZ5hgN7jiS_wWHOQTwM8SIJrbaBK_lxsHelQ0m555dXuTO05GZW2epnkPOQXmLMK1B4bAJmHes7lrMvmQtFmSyxHWEPE7QB37Euh_cmn0umP/s200/IMG_4325.JPG" width="200" /></a>We checked out of the Parador - they had allowed us to keep our car there for the day while we explored and the most beautiful rainbow of light, cast as if from a prism (refracting through the glass door) was across the floor. I took photos of the entrance hall, the scallop shells woven into the carpets and other lovely touches throughout and wised we were staying for yet another night. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7qTr2qYHq-pX2P1C3p2DpgNUNq-8fm8vlLhj4G1s1cQ2DWxeAv0yfJOXnZ7O2j6NTGt0UgTC6VK7wzmTsJpo99kwL0mN65X7LiZItPEuxIY05GgjKA26a812e3aT3EcQpFFvIebiIwt8F/s1600/IMG_4340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7qTr2qYHq-pX2P1C3p2DpgNUNq-8fm8vlLhj4G1s1cQ2DWxeAv0yfJOXnZ7O2j6NTGt0UgTC6VK7wzmTsJpo99kwL0mN65X7LiZItPEuxIY05GgjKA26a812e3aT3EcQpFFvIebiIwt8F/s200/IMG_4340.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Handle at the Parador</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We decided to go to dinner in the Pilgrim Restaurant next to the Parador but were sadly disappointed as it was not quite as we had hoped. It was a lovely starter of simple cheese, membrillo, walnuts and hazelnuts - but they got my main wrong, bringing me Sea Bass rather than squid. The bass looked delicious but the squid then ended up being under seasoned and felt a bit rushed. A time as it was the last meal of our trip and all food had been exceptional up until that point. The staff were very apologetic and offered other options but it was late and not really going to make up for it. <br />
<br />
A good night's sleep at our modern but very comfortable 5* hotel - the Palacio Del Carmen and they had great parking which makes all the difference in a big city that has narrow ancient streets unsuited for modern vehicles and the density of traffic. It was however, rather sadly devoid of soul after being spoilt in the old world luxury and history of the Parador though. <br />
<br />
We awoke to a rainy and misty morning, ready to leave bright and early. What a trip and not a day with bad weather, just a little mist at times and no real rain, but today, Santiago was crying as we left... but we will return!<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>Buen Camino!</b></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiadLxMvTKucOauTRBTLysK3SA4i0euqVKQlO4b9oOKF2F9mSyKYxxyCHnTWwNqui0MHcRVIxF4FSMpyEOA-ZxOm0Z-KZx8icZUqxRed-gmYTNH7QXpZC6krlwL_YM1hA2ZhaOxbYv6fNKz/s1600/IMG_4368.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiadLxMvTKucOauTRBTLysK3SA4i0euqVKQlO4b9oOKF2F9mSyKYxxyCHnTWwNqui0MHcRVIxF4FSMpyEOA-ZxOm0Z-KZx8icZUqxRed-gmYTNH7QXpZC6krlwL_YM1hA2ZhaOxbYv6fNKz/s640/IMG_4368.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-86543558871911205222020-04-05T15:10:00.002-07:002020-04-08T08:20:34.037-07:00<b>El Camino (Levante) beyond Dornellas (at A Estrada approximately) to Albergue Reina Lupa at Boqueixón (approx 10km) - Saturday 5th October, 2019. </b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKHvoCERjcHDIXUqu6CVGHSn1e7az2Rh7s-gRhWAEcYYGUfjWBUxtl8XJqHscULOji6a2cVOQzutdz5HY4PUZb7gAn7zOo6gdGR7uNaxzpSRgVgrwYNi5bI9t6EYeYGBtnPH26Wbuxl11R/s1600/IMG_4181.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1376" data-original-width="774" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKHvoCERjcHDIXUqu6CVGHSn1e7az2Rh7s-gRhWAEcYYGUfjWBUxtl8XJqHscULOji6a2cVOQzutdz5HY4PUZb7gAn7zOo6gdGR7uNaxzpSRgVgrwYNi5bI9t6EYeYGBtnPH26Wbuxl11R/s200/IMG_4181.JPG" width="112" /></a>Well, the steep decent into Ponte Ulla would be a challenge for my ankle to see how it would hold out and of course, if one goes down into a valley, one is going to have to climb back out of it and by the angle of the decent, the ascent was going to be one hell of a challenge! Plus - it was going to be hot.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY7AUk5WP5ElkUdcriHTXXevWrogsd0_ye7JqDiaqg_oGLydb5cqrw-MyW8yiQB7wKRvZAqbsJ8CfB7kDHDQiB0LbH4QCoY8Sg6QvZl9Abimvhmdu9E0UM8tbTqUdr-G87Fp3yyo7ZV8L5/s1600/IMG_4179.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY7AUk5WP5ElkUdcriHTXXevWrogsd0_ye7JqDiaqg_oGLydb5cqrw-MyW8yiQB7wKRvZAqbsJ8CfB7kDHDQiB0LbH4QCoY8Sg6QvZl9Abimvhmdu9E0UM8tbTqUdr-G87Fp3yyo7ZV8L5/s320/IMG_4179.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Church left perched on a small hilltop surrounded by<br />
access roads and the railway work cuttings</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I started off in the dark with a strange light in the sky as the day broke through mist. The ankle was coping and I didn't plan on going too fast. I had a much shorter day than I had originally planned, so hopefully I could just make it through if I kept steady. The decent into Ponte Ulla was spectacularly steep! I wouldn't want to live on the valley sides during ice and snow - and they do get that in Galicia. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBiwMSo4WwRSF8Z09zmDhlpVCAPUMmAicyOU60JfSioTqhNIePKZjt4BzM4mSJ0Jfk2Li6L8VNpFTGFfwlIZsrJaAtef1jjnqplezTP4PtZB50KBCBDaEdMyBPOjEFgrQjZ8SigAsOwisL/s1600/IMG_4184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBiwMSo4WwRSF8Z09zmDhlpVCAPUMmAicyOU60JfSioTqhNIePKZjt4BzM4mSJ0Jfk2Li6L8VNpFTGFfwlIZsrJaAtef1jjnqplezTP4PtZB50KBCBDaEdMyBPOjEFgrQjZ8SigAsOwisL/s200/IMG_4184.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ponte Ulla (puente)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAAn_39EIqxWQ8hAIBsevOQiVe2gZ4BPzEmV8YnVF_JDI8r024Rx8ZcbXgg39Lo2LWD2yuZegKM0SlyjcJZt_UucIHTy3Y8owxCnBqsOBiadalaFf9j9CXFXbTe6oR01aHPk1iMhJGLOV-/s1600/IMG_4185.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAAn_39EIqxWQ8hAIBsevOQiVe2gZ4BPzEmV8YnVF_JDI8r024Rx8ZcbXgg39Lo2LWD2yuZegKM0SlyjcJZt_UucIHTy3Y8owxCnBqsOBiadalaFf9j9CXFXbTe6oR01aHPk1iMhJGLOV-/s320/IMG_4185.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view from the bridge - with the old railway bridge<br />
behind</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I could also look right across the valley - to where a lonely church perched on a bit of hill, not blasted away for the railway - and the lights for the work going on and the scarred hillside showed us we were right about the reasons for the diversion. The route of the camino has been completely destroyed - that is by which I was to have entered Ponte Ulla. On my way down I met a lady walking her dog who chatted about me doing it "sola" and said there would be desayunos in Ponte Ulla. Her little dog was a bit worried and barked but got used to me walking with them after a short way. At least she ws out walking it even though just up and down the road. The lady was right - as I entered the town, the first bar, just over the bridge was just opening and M met me on the bridge and went in to secure bocodillos queso y tomate para me y tortilla para el. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUw8d3HPRgc2VZ9rA1m3a0kTR3mCxhlp0Ovg7RjPjJow22lPJQFmWu-2iMZ4nnRVAAMD0Hx2OQGuxZJbToVGM_Zb9NfQWCNBoL08sWOXsYDdFc_IfSmZXd7dTG-uWYC-LvO6zyI9mDilxw/s1600/IMG_4180.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUw8d3HPRgc2VZ9rA1m3a0kTR3mCxhlp0Ovg7RjPjJow22lPJQFmWu-2iMZ4nnRVAAMD0Hx2OQGuxZJbToVGM_Zb9NfQWCNBoL08sWOXsYDdFc_IfSmZXd7dTG-uWYC-LvO6zyI9mDilxw/s200/IMG_4180.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old railway bridge at Ponte Ulla<br />
rising out of the mist and to my<br />
right as I made my decent into the town.<br />
It clearly shows how steep the sides<br />
of the valley are</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbLausR1lBzF8waiRDHkjSReA56ID2Vs5p5vNtjQl5Ot5Esto66d0-plk6ZLualtLTPlSDAVsBwFXh3q9OBfXEZ-VtmPsVx96FH7mHbXcLlAr-nqVg9j8Rv7Dw7HpcGWDNr6XshJ4wksVf/s1600/IMG_4182.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbLausR1lBzF8waiRDHkjSReA56ID2Vs5p5vNtjQl5Ot5Esto66d0-plk6ZLualtLTPlSDAVsBwFXh3q9OBfXEZ-VtmPsVx96FH7mHbXcLlAr-nqVg9j8Rv7Dw7HpcGWDNr6XshJ4wksVf/s400/IMG_4182.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My route - black arrows - the yellow original camino<br />
route... I turned right where the arrows stop and picked<br />
up the old camino - zig zagging down the steep valley<br />
sides. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The town seemed to be fairly alive with pilgrims, not hundreds but enough, setting off for their day of walking. Some were going to make it into Santiago today - astonishing as it was so steep and tiring, and I was glad to stop at Reina Lupa. They were not carrying anything though and the ladies I talked to at one point said that their husbands took the luggage and met them with food - they were not into walking to Santiago and they nodded meaningfully when I explained my husband also did this - because apparently husbands are not ones for walking the Camino and it is "always us women" who do this. Funny. They do it many times they said - often walking from home to Santiago. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUHXq6ZCWlQP7UMSybd1tTc3UY7tihG3MW5LWq1eaLc15aORur5yFZ2OfVyJatT4qqFN-SBnnE6NMmvJp25-kjOdXovwk8IMe1Fxe-wTSwKiBCnR4KoledujlEHjhZTgBwphjVBCTZSq-I/s1600/DSCF1294.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUHXq6ZCWlQP7UMSybd1tTc3UY7tihG3MW5LWq1eaLc15aORur5yFZ2OfVyJatT4qqFN-SBnnE6NMmvJp25-kjOdXovwk8IMe1Fxe-wTSwKiBCnR4KoledujlEHjhZTgBwphjVBCTZSq-I/s320/DSCF1294.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scallop topped bells in Ponte Ulla!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfcPre3aIKu_ipBY5Zb4xlcKDEapcv3wHS1WmSCqrgiHUhCaUd_tq1uDsFEUpGezhjw_D0weBHzrtA2Hm1b_gWrP4KCYAl2I27e0KbI3cz5XZFcbu013RIv7oYigUuq6zN-g_l8RLjlIqM/s1600/IMG_4189.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfcPre3aIKu_ipBY5Zb4xlcKDEapcv3wHS1WmSCqrgiHUhCaUd_tq1uDsFEUpGezhjw_D0weBHzrtA2Hm1b_gWrP4KCYAl2I27e0KbI3cz5XZFcbu013RIv7oYigUuq6zN-g_l8RLjlIqM/s200/IMG_4189.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The way out of Ponte<br />
Ulla</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The church sported some scallop shaped hanging devices for the bells - fabulous! The road heads out by way of another medieval road and there is a wayside cross at the beginning of it. A Spanish family were arranging themselves around it for a photo opportunity and I offered to take their photo so they could all be in it. One of the husbands I mentioned above was taking the photo and it was only when I met the ladies later I understood why she had declined my offer - the husbands weren't going to be in the picture because they go by car! <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitBpBC0T5v_NFlRk_iyGD9rAmEha_XdaBIcHHjL0NH8asZYT0-W7rGEq_XWkLFMBxF9HXkrbdJbLepwHaWTvXD79JC5bIZl_iIDn8iUqjBbtRVxCXQgFah7fLn4DgKTzbjPP39lHp1kjLx/s1600/IMG_4187.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitBpBC0T5v_NFlRk_iyGD9rAmEha_XdaBIcHHjL0NH8asZYT0-W7rGEq_XWkLFMBxF9HXkrbdJbLepwHaWTvXD79JC5bIZl_iIDn8iUqjBbtRVxCXQgFah7fLn4DgKTzbjPP39lHp1kjLx/s200/IMG_4187.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Only 20km to Santiago! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-AXBHwJrN-50Upm1ewdxY8dNPZMnjblvi5RI8tlyb5Qk0de-NltCtPAsGL0LsXqwxGx98k7ZzxkJ8Q1Yjr3DmWJiEunOFhFZ5TRpxGgzqQ0n5c6A5bjrIYr0G7ax3mczW8mqb6VNEHE9r/s1600/IMG_4190.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-AXBHwJrN-50Upm1ewdxY8dNPZMnjblvi5RI8tlyb5Qk0de-NltCtPAsGL0LsXqwxGx98k7ZzxkJ8Q1Yjr3DmWJiEunOFhFZ5TRpxGgzqQ0n5c6A5bjrIYr0G7ax3mczW8mqb6VNEHE9r/s200/IMG_4190.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underpass to the steep forest<br />
tracks</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The ladies chatted for some time when we were up in the woodland above Ponte Ulla - where had I started from? That is a long way - how do I walk it?.... ah poco a poco. Initially the way is on the main road, fast and dangerous and it is best to cross over at various points in order to be seen by the fast moving traffic. Once out off the main road and into the forest, the tracks are beautiful and were welcomely cool as the day heated up. I was going to get through a lot of water today. The way out was up, up and more up - of course, the steep valley side going down to the river needed to be climbed on the other side in order to exit on the Santiago side. I took many breaks and it was tough on knee and legs as I tried not to over bend my ankle on the breaker point - which was at constant bend anyway with going uphill. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk6lGQfv758Voi34dNy2RlRN7HC2cVfPWhw9R3HOLf_yLrTYeldwX68B8Que8ZnABH3op67MBWVCffo72W3Y79dIVOTDjGX8Hhf43JfoJ5lniOv_uV0Afq9vDo8K2GvOKMzJP0znG3j8XR/s1600/IMG_4192.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk6lGQfv758Voi34dNy2RlRN7HC2cVfPWhw9R3HOLf_yLrTYeldwX68B8Que8ZnABH3op67MBWVCffo72W3Y79dIVOTDjGX8Hhf43JfoJ5lniOv_uV0Afq9vDo8K2GvOKMzJP0znG3j8XR/s200/IMG_4192.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chapel of Santiago</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdKVzZxXj-36L58kmrW5T6uCGqZ0RodmS0lBj9PbAxVm1MbGhsv227yhSIm3UEi_g96ZMxFjuBFWqv0lQV2Y7zGR6q42tQD7uT4Cl9eyVxoXfSjtcWL9lmV4gZfYy1_d4Ua1FnBueHOpP5/s1600/IMG_4201.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1376" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdKVzZxXj-36L58kmrW5T6uCGqZ0RodmS0lBj9PbAxVm1MbGhsv227yhSIm3UEi_g96ZMxFjuBFWqv0lQV2Y7zGR6q42tQD7uT4Cl9eyVxoXfSjtcWL9lmV4gZfYy1_d4Ua1FnBueHOpP5/s320/IMG_4201.JPG" width="320" /></a>As the steep track turned into gentle undulations, Michael appeared, passing the Spanish ladies now way ahead of me. It was pleasant to walk together to the church were there was a great feeling of St James and a lovely fountain for drinking and a pleasant cool place to eat and rest a little. A few pilgrims passed, also taking the chance to cool off or refill water bottles. One passed us who we were sure had a prosthetic leg - wow, and I thought I was having a tough walk! He was bowling along and it yet again filled me with admiration for the many who make this walk to Santiago. We enjoyed our bocodillos and cafe con leche (liete in Galician), took photos, sorted out next meeting point and then headed on again. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZXdWyVgCrIWxeqM6rynho4jR3bynyMfUkAot_6o9zEIIMMZtxerMbImOoUODVRwCmqbqdCj7jt1ZgG5wz1Lvf6TxkYnIpDXPlpO1p6ZAVU38MWRkEGpQbLzLtHs8dan29ZctPyL5FlWEE/s1600/IMG_4200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1376" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZXdWyVgCrIWxeqM6rynho4jR3bynyMfUkAot_6o9zEIIMMZtxerMbImOoUODVRwCmqbqdCj7jt1ZgG5wz1Lvf6TxkYnIpDXPlpO1p6ZAVU38MWRkEGpQbLzLtHs8dan29ZctPyL5FlWEE/s640/IMG_4200.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Really fabulous rest stop at the chapel of St James (there is a picnic area behind) and only a few metres from<br />
the albergue of O Oteiro (where the Pilgrim with the long staff and loud phone voice had been heading for two days ago!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGCdFo8mJJ4_CoBNY7ZG04L79mm0wMD7dExcqVKtX5jIckVySY0GsmEedOY8RC3Ej6epjiT0hGxU6OpMjo0L2sOcPs4yFK1qQDeIlnmNHzmPIQm_K-VL8dLXFZG1aOKbhqSXIR5S06hwjB/s1600/IMG_4195.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGCdFo8mJJ4_CoBNY7ZG04L79mm0wMD7dExcqVKtX5jIckVySY0GsmEedOY8RC3Ej6epjiT0hGxU6OpMjo0L2sOcPs4yFK1qQDeIlnmNHzmPIQm_K-VL8dLXFZG1aOKbhqSXIR5S06hwjB/s200/IMG_4195.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pretty albergue at O Oteiro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKR2i-bOtpiMt8ZTF6VzaGLRZR8bBkG7L-c3LHx5pHGuajmukM-DfNQ6mlkdtv2SGKLd7SElMKe_qm7P3rLX8HKtivZ4pSD4WtZ7z6wlwGSGkAZ5dlzephMNX5y_cTBga95O1X8vs81BHY/s1600/IMG_4194.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKR2i-bOtpiMt8ZTF6VzaGLRZR8bBkG7L-c3LHx5pHGuajmukM-DfNQ6mlkdtv2SGKLd7SElMKe_qm7P3rLX8HKtivZ4pSD4WtZ7z6wlwGSGkAZ5dlzephMNX5y_cTBga95O1X8vs81BHY/s320/IMG_4194.JPG" width="240" /></a>Only a short distance on from this rest stop is the new and stunning albergue of O Oteiro. I hadn't booked this as it didn't sound like it was actually on the route in my guidebook and yet I could have broken my walk into more stops and also walked to each and every location, without the need for the back and forth support vehicle. This one is literally right on the Camino and once I went back to the guidebook (which can sometimes be misleading due to the "lost in translation" side of it) it says "at Capella de Santiago... the church! This is what it meant - that the albergue is right here, only a few metres distant.<br />
<br />
Passing the albergue, the sacred mountain - Pico Sacro can be seen, with the hermitage to San Sebastian at the top and the steps leading up to it. It dominates the views from all directions. <br />
<br />
Taken from http://blog.turismo.gal/experiences-en/legends-and-stories-of-the-pico-sacro/ -<br />
<h3>
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 255);"><b><u>Legends and stories of the Pico Sacro - </u></b></span></span><span style="color: blue;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 255);"><b><u>11 December, 2017 Turismo de Galicia</u></b></span></span></h3>
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 255);">“A colossal pyramid on the horizon of a valley, a giant obelisk that goes against the landscapes of the fertile valley, a conical mountain, crowned, like the mythology of Cybele, with fantastic battlements of quartz […] It’s the symbol of mystery and solitude […] it’s the messenger of a resigned melancholy […] is the father who safeguards the region “. In his poetic way, in the mid-nineteenth century, Antonio Neira de Mosquera referred to the Pico Sacro (Sacred Peak), in Boqueixón. The mountain, about 600 meters tall, is easily recognizable from virtually anywhere in the Ulla region, south of Santiago de Compostela, and has served as a guide to orient travellers since the beginning of time. Its characteristic silhouette has guaranteed it a central place in the imagination of those who have lived in these lands and is, consequently, the location of numerous legends and myths.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 255);"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 255);">In fact, the Pico Sacro is probably the most fabled mountain in Galicia. The most repeated story is the one that gives it a leading role in the traslatio or arrival of the remains of the Apostle Santiago to Compostela. The lower Ulla region was then ruled by Queen Lupa, a mythical character that appears in several popular Galician stories. According to legend, Atanasio and Teodoro, the two disciples of Santiago who were carrying his body to Galicia from Palestine, went to see her to ask for a cart to help in this endeavour. Lupa, astute, sent them to get it at the Pico Sacro, where a dragon lived, hoping that it would devour them and free her from the competition that the Apostle would signify to her power. But the two disciples climbed the mountain and, when the dragon attacked them, they defeated it simply by making the sign of the cross. They then took two wild oxen that, tamed by the power of the Apostle, ended up driving the cart to Compostela.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 255);"><br /></span></span>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq7rXOyHQev2EzOy60buA2HEZZD60c337w2lAMmwj8w7_xh9DX6CznUDsa4x1shDm-65MsenaogPDivEMj3WiEcQ7oGvxb9ZUQORwl9KP8MiqPKaXwxWkO_gE6K3dJUzsJSpTOSpErFJwL/s1600/DSCF1295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq7rXOyHQev2EzOy60buA2HEZZD60c337w2lAMmwj8w7_xh9DX6CznUDsa4x1shDm-65MsenaogPDivEMj3WiEcQ7oGvxb9ZUQORwl9KP8MiqPKaXwxWkO_gE6K3dJUzsJSpTOSpErFJwL/s640/DSCF1295.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 255);"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 255);">There are many variants of this legend. Another well known legend tells of the existence of a huge snake that lives in the heart of the peak. You can even visit the entrance to its dwelling: near the top, on the north side of the mountain, a huge tunnel pierces the stone. It is possible to walk in the first few meters, but then the stones rise and block the light, making it impenetrable, which is fortunate for the most fearful ones.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 255);"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 255);">The hole probably has a natural origin, but the imagination of the people has aggrandized its legend exponentially. Another popular story states that, following it to the end, you would reach the very banks of the Ulla River in San Xoán da Cova, several kilometres downhill, and that this was the path used to water the horses by the original inhabitants of the peak, the “mouros” (moors). These are recurring characters in traditional Galician fables and, if encountered, it is convenient to treat them well: it is dependant on their capricious nature whether one would end up taking home a treasure or a terrible curse.</span></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 255);"><br /></span></span>
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 255);">On the way to the hole, the so called “Rúa da Raíña Lupa” (Queen Lupa’s street) is a curious gap in the rock that can be crossed on foot. One legend states that it is the entrance hall to the palace of the witch queen; another that a giant opened it with the hack of an ax.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOKBzB2Y1MR3Pom4YT7BkoafftHyJHZojwa6m8XIzue4wiA8G577xZ0O3yCDGi0e47iHAWQxevRde05qXlUGQ4Wx-DLSXtTfJ4BYV7F8x53Yro0n6RrIt3mVdcEA5o_2vxvJ8mZSJjDLQl/s1600/IMG_4205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1376" data-original-width="774" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOKBzB2Y1MR3Pom4YT7BkoafftHyJHZojwa6m8XIzue4wiA8G577xZ0O3yCDGi0e47iHAWQxevRde05qXlUGQ4Wx-DLSXtTfJ4BYV7F8x53Yro0n6RrIt3mVdcEA5o_2vxvJ8mZSJjDLQl/s320/IMG_4205.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Not" the campo de fútbol</td></tr>
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 255);">The Sacred Peak dominates a view of at least thirty kilometres around, from the imposing summit of Mount Xesteiras, in the Cuntis area, to Santiago itself. Because of this, its peak has probably always been a defensive watchtower and, at the same time, a centre of religious pilgrimage. There is a hermitage near the top dedicated to San Sebastian that was originally built in the tenth century and, next to the geodesic vertice that crowns it, there are still remains of a fifteenth century fortress. They are not abundant or easy to see, although you can spot recesses in the stone for setting wooden structures or steps carved into the granite and quartz mass.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEZn-c87qRW6GvRVOGj5vJhLr-fc94IGtrdYykAIGMk7cMPO3VDbmxblkjbxLEtQMtBZ5AR-B2T1sdHwcsIR16E2WxrFrMwxntVLgvQEg-IxD_XqrlEtNnlMvpMTkgfSdl9GlwZHuIP43e/s1600/IMG_4198.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEZn-c87qRW6GvRVOGj5vJhLr-fc94IGtrdYykAIGMk7cMPO3VDbmxblkjbxLEtQMtBZ5AR-B2T1sdHwcsIR16E2WxrFrMwxntVLgvQEg-IxD_XqrlEtNnlMvpMTkgfSdl9GlwZHuIP43e/s200/IMG_4198.JPG" width="200" /></a>I headed on from the albergue into the heat and suddenly there were pilgrims coming past in a steady stream. Not busy but regular passers by. All marching at quite a pace of course! I must be the slowest pilgrim ever I think - not that it matters, I still get there and I get to see and enjoy so much along the way. Our next meeting point was also a little "out". Not sure why but the guidebook suggested the route would go past the campo de fútbol and it didn't. M couldn't pick it up from the other side, so waited at the wayside cross where I took a quick break and rested my now very sore ankle. I was now hobbling from one stop to another with rests as much as possible between. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge7akazswRg4lrohy3ZhS290KZf58182PZFstoIJO1icEiEiekyG3r4FOXgc2uFu6m55szxkPdazjzWWeNSylNAwX6S5zWF0TJhaMM5Ro4cCKA5mS655fTFom5XVXHwkMzIwMmor3Qkjcx/s1600/IMG_4203.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge7akazswRg4lrohy3ZhS290KZf58182PZFstoIJO1icEiEiekyG3r4FOXgc2uFu6m55szxkPdazjzWWeNSylNAwX6S5zWF0TJhaMM5Ro4cCKA5mS655fTFom5XVXHwkMzIwMmor3Qkjcx/s200/IMG_4203.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfkVqSh9METwufn_enop0rI1y_1E6_-P6tL2Rynj0fSU6KT4QuX4UtBHq-sUfDg4Kv1-dUlxqPmMi9IQ71fDeUxXqylihTCaYaEV5A0jEyQrhWzYuYPm7OVk5Pjpxmprg6S7mmcX1YMZF_/s1600/IMG_4217.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1376" data-original-width="774" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfkVqSh9METwufn_enop0rI1y_1E6_-P6tL2Rynj0fSU6KT4QuX4UtBHq-sUfDg4Kv1-dUlxqPmMi9IQ71fDeUxXqylihTCaYaEV5A0jEyQrhWzYuYPm7OVk5Pjpxmprg6S7mmcX1YMZF_/s320/IMG_4217.JPG" width="180" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifiVAvqizBMphZSlrGuTRR2gOovw4Fnn8JrHPb3jfkEPhtwRnP1rGeNwtrzIq4NEwVxINR6rQ9zQXoHzfiZSn1RMy9G10W_ho5an7wpAk6URhXVxy8MaLu7YicV1gT1s4CXjiGWzlea0lQ/s1600/IMG_4210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifiVAvqizBMphZSlrGuTRR2gOovw4Fnn8JrHPb3jfkEPhtwRnP1rGeNwtrzIq4NEwVxINR6rQ9zQXoHzfiZSn1RMy9G10W_ho5an7wpAk6URhXVxy8MaLu7YicV1gT1s4CXjiGWzlea0lQ/s200/IMG_4210.JPG" width="150" /></a>From here it was a relatively short hobble (although it seemed a long way) to reach the outskirts of Boqueixón where there was another small diversion. M had found that we could ignore it and still get access and I was so glad of my "scout" as any extra distance on my ankle would be challenging. It appears that there is a road being made but the long diversion around the small hamlet could be made into a much smaller one by going through a wide previously gated wall across the corner of a field and stepping over the marker tape back onto the road again - a distance of maybe 15m.<br />
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Here we found a wonderful cool spot to rest, another cross and some giant tie rings... hmmm - enormous horses or maybe elephants? I'm sure Hannibal didn't come this way!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ve40QJzNGmjNUiOF2JSrui7bPWw-jrYx8LayIP8A719Vcjgx-60nDDpZjHJhrsAayoyhECnsSTDhq4-oRGq22CpOBdNtjwzDlrIiHWvm3dJKhq9cZrY9OHBSxM6h3kUUL4VUfqUz4x-i/s1600/IMG_4211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ve40QJzNGmjNUiOF2JSrui7bPWw-jrYx8LayIP8A719Vcjgx-60nDDpZjHJhrsAayoyhECnsSTDhq4-oRGq22CpOBdNtjwzDlrIiHWvm3dJKhq9cZrY9OHBSxM6h3kUUL4VUfqUz4x-i/s320/IMG_4211.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Over the bench at the lovely little rest spot before Boqueixón</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4sDpN9cRRJMPCS3CU0MefsvExiWZ23ug89EGyzerDuGeUDWuWhGdeOb8tcl9hOSygXtMc6COIro1SIn9KUog43G2C-WEqKlfGHBpN_v74ToVBzCv7u3JPWrPsKSAnBcdvOnD2Lq6aqvDG/s1600/IMG_4215.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4sDpN9cRRJMPCS3CU0MefsvExiWZ23ug89EGyzerDuGeUDWuWhGdeOb8tcl9hOSygXtMc6COIro1SIn9KUog43G2C-WEqKlfGHBpN_v74ToVBzCv7u3JPWrPsKSAnBcdvOnD2Lq6aqvDG/s640/IMG_4215.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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From the rest stop, it is mostly downhill to the albergue of Reina Lupa in Boqueixón. The last little bit up to the road (another diversion so it seems) where again the arrows take me on a slightly different route from the guidebook... Reina Lupa was not due to be "on" the Camino, and yet it is. This was great for us because we didn't have to move the car about but could leave it there on our walk into Santiago. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ElmQ-GBgDDyFVsPaR-PeXo6Cjud7HxII2DXZcbX_lQv_17k0QilpGmPDBAwNuUGrsACCzf3-nJOlbdvSU15zHtSH1Z8O1VHQPziCOYp4pQsYutFa07b9c29yLGPBJFHnHumIJ847XDVR/s1600/IMG_4206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ElmQ-GBgDDyFVsPaR-PeXo6Cjud7HxII2DXZcbX_lQv_17k0QilpGmPDBAwNuUGrsACCzf3-nJOlbdvSU15zHtSH1Z8O1VHQPziCOYp4pQsYutFa07b9c29yLGPBJFHnHumIJ847XDVR/s200/IMG_4206.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The vines hanging over the whole<br />
road on the wa to Reina Lupa</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1pWgZD_jyYkHZkqGCSxshg2YWOt8g_oWK1u1JYDKBDEVSRfzNixCqvjM4WM4blQlatKBXrqBLmmsG1ZURZX945OAiJd1oAZMf5Of0aBgyWxdqFMaHkW9Wn298mQMoemo0TncUAtbwBRyY/s1600/IMG_4219.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1pWgZD_jyYkHZkqGCSxshg2YWOt8g_oWK1u1JYDKBDEVSRfzNixCqvjM4WM4blQlatKBXrqBLmmsG1ZURZX945OAiJd1oAZMf5Of0aBgyWxdqFMaHkW9Wn298mQMoemo0TncUAtbwBRyY/s320/IMG_4219.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amazing - these hang over the whole street, shading<br />
it and the cars - strung between the houses on both<br />
sides of the street</td></tr>
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The mountain actually looks down on Reina Lupa - the albergue where we had booked to stay and the name of which comes from the legend outlined here. This albergue has only been open one year and had 480 pilgrims visit in 2018, and so far in 2019 690. It is modern, spotless and beautifully designed and run by the fabulous Carmiña and her family. It is part of their business and the bar serves delicious food and is welcoming with great tapas and good for a cold beer! I thoroughly recommend it and she stays in touch via FB and makes friends with all those who pass through. I just hope they survive OK in the current economic crisis of the pandemic. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZMKaminpr2lswFUwqy7879zE49YRSeJ2DmLgeUlE9bywIcFu-T5HDDy8IjnocpxXiYijGhnBrwNyOQfX91k3ZDSIXRZRNpwUEJg2pCadd-NURLOQnILBJt3U-cmb9zhQpFAkcNujT8_h5/s1600/IMG_4226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZMKaminpr2lswFUwqy7879zE49YRSeJ2DmLgeUlE9bywIcFu-T5HDDy8IjnocpxXiYijGhnBrwNyOQfX91k3ZDSIXRZRNpwUEJg2pCadd-NURLOQnILBJt3U-cmb9zhQpFAkcNujT8_h5/s320/IMG_4226.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Carmiña and her husband Bruno outside<br />
the bar at Reina Lupa Albergue</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG7GJQiKJKRnUrBLKe5YZxJLJmjmRvf7dWFeTViuxcFLIbZFSq8Udl89U7bEBTdVpXU9grv3Fars2zxbS81iurfD4y-oj56x1GTXjNt2REg-KAtzxklPEM4uBZ-q6Sjq4_TCu6weGsjlUx/s1600/IMG_4208.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG7GJQiKJKRnUrBLKe5YZxJLJmjmRvf7dWFeTViuxcFLIbZFSq8Udl89U7bEBTdVpXU9grv3Fars2zxbS81iurfD4y-oj56x1GTXjNt2REg-KAtzxklPEM4uBZ-q6Sjq4_TCu6weGsjlUx/s200/IMG_4208.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Location of Reina Lupa</td></tr>
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On arrival at Reina Lupa we had the warmest of welcomes. Carmiña gives us little "hand" shells to wear around our necks on our last day walking into Santiago and bings us our cañon along with feds and chicken broth - a delicious home made tapa. We had dinner with her too - delicious cena with another place of home grown tomatoes. The huge luxury shower was most welcome and we spent the evening chatting and we received kisses all around also being introduced to her husband. The family have been here running a business for 50 years. She said when I booked she thought I was Korean from my name (I wasn't sure I understood so she demonstrated with her eyes!)... apparently they have a lot of Korean peregrinos through here! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheZ6Vs6FiYUYGfNmXcijFhSuSO60sQpLxLDlYld4ogec8_OO95jP-cNXrIo8kByc7sodvCIVQss90eqqYApkWaY4_95LMvsiFZcQFY1f6NQxWof7IpxxqjyH9wzmbMC5S3x-avFPJ0lPcp/s1600/IMG_4223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheZ6Vs6FiYUYGfNmXcijFhSuSO60sQpLxLDlYld4ogec8_OO95jP-cNXrIo8kByc7sodvCIVQss90eqqYApkWaY4_95LMvsiFZcQFY1f6NQxWof7IpxxqjyH9wzmbMC5S3x-avFPJ0lPcp/s200/IMG_4223.JPG" width="150" /></a>She took photos of us too to share on her FB page and is still in touch. Do take the opportunity to support them. They respond well to WhatsApp messages and reply quickly to email.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYGt_37IiqRiv611R2ZkGS2U5zU6w1AsXvFBKUYFUGRoe2S0Gc7nxI8i-JzQ_504Rl9AegbfnTcCAY-2MyBLliFcj_esteZnipAsa7kPrljMu7T6Y2dKBcgdyAuw6HCq9go6R0N7mX9qoj/s1600/IMG_4222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYGt_37IiqRiv611R2ZkGS2U5zU6w1AsXvFBKUYFUGRoe2S0Gc7nxI8i-JzQ_504Rl9AegbfnTcCAY-2MyBLliFcj_esteZnipAsa7kPrljMu7T6Y2dKBcgdyAuw6HCq9go6R0N7mX9qoj/s320/IMG_4222.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lovely albergue - Reina Lupa</td></tr>
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http://alberguereinalupa.com<br />
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<div style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(85, 85, 85); color: #555555; font-family: Lato, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; margin-bottom: 1em; padding: 0px;">
<span style="border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: inherit; font-style: italic; line-height: 1; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><strong style="box-sizing: border-box; margin-bottom: 0px;">Dirección</strong></span><br />
Lugar de Deseiro-Sergude, Concello de Boqueixón 15881 Boqueixón La Coruña</div>
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Hora de apertura: De 12:00h a 21:00h</div>
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981 511 803 / 679 842 829</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheS04VHaWIg-YDbo2PsTB795IK2NgplcfKNd3rtVHj274CcgLX9fIX6atGCH2DWLPozxV7teFwSQINcX2znWClUS_vNOUY8ehh70kcwrckZmX7aJKlbSsv2aUwJTB23QpEZfp4xCeWr1_W/s1600/IMG_4228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheS04VHaWIg-YDbo2PsTB795IK2NgplcfKNd3rtVHj274CcgLX9fIX6atGCH2DWLPozxV7teFwSQINcX2znWClUS_vNOUY8ehh70kcwrckZmX7aJKlbSsv2aUwJTB23QpEZfp4xCeWr1_W/s320/IMG_4228.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view of Pico Sacro from Reina Lupa</td></tr>
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<a href="mailto:info@alberguereinalupa.com" style="box-sizing: border-box; color: #1abc9c; margin-bottom: 0px; outline: none; text-decoration: none; transition: all 0.1s ease-in-out;">info@alberguereinalupa.com</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWlUjg_XDxLF3Mj2HAwkcHNV3RZB6bPATElyUIt1P6kyv2pDtClyK51DbNQvn9HK62I2QmjnOWh0-3GxwSzqYAIm3O-QEOweZUn8r_b0b8LtGyYMpb-O8K0kgxOKECG5Rc11SE2hkmdhmE/s1600/IMG_4220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWlUjg_XDxLF3Mj2HAwkcHNV3RZB6bPATElyUIt1P6kyv2pDtClyK51DbNQvn9HK62I2QmjnOWh0-3GxwSzqYAIm3O-QEOweZUn8r_b0b8LtGyYMpb-O8K0kgxOKECG5Rc11SE2hkmdhmE/s200/IMG_4220.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); color: black; font-family: -webkit-standard; font-size: small;">You can't miss the albergue as there are signs as you reach the road that takes you left and along the road to where you pick up the arrows - on your right to head on uphill toward Santiago. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPcMKBnBvLWC358TwG0hj6mXOUjvjYAF0TPFRZdqAsX9urxG4FqEwhm7qtzft_btc86dGQJC4vuKSp18eNuF3I4oJdi0Zg9ZkW0F4BxiPhxC5g36F8xiLmqzmV4DsqdgkFwTJ3riEfHTzv/s1600/IMG_4224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPcMKBnBvLWC358TwG0hj6mXOUjvjYAF0TPFRZdqAsX9urxG4FqEwhm7qtzft_btc86dGQJC4vuKSp18eNuF3I4oJdi0Zg9ZkW0F4BxiPhxC5g36F8xiLmqzmV4DsqdgkFwTJ3riEfHTzv/s200/IMG_4224.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our "double" room - there are two<br />
available and there are fabulous<br />
communal areas, kitchen, washer and<br />
drier and dorms</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRK1hpOOcP-F5BewpwAj05suImV2jS4lA8d8YkrS0o_yvDPsKHw2VuYHC_NUay7i0R57-QrR5ma4FQ9-fqVDJfY_a0nGB-U0LNcJanALQ4dlqD5Y6AhLg98n5sPHjbePEYGoHU6nh7lpfP/s1600/IMG_4230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRK1hpOOcP-F5BewpwAj05suImV2jS4lA8d8YkrS0o_yvDPsKHw2VuYHC_NUay7i0R57-QrR5ma4FQ9-fqVDJfY_a0nGB-U0LNcJanALQ4dlqD5Y6AhLg98n5sPHjbePEYGoHU6nh7lpfP/s320/IMG_4230.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our gift from Carmiña... we will wear them with pride</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgZnqPHhTxSjO8XUrhkIlPlxoVVOxeTsggPRetU58AklCxsEn7-f04iA0UlHtREzb2UJ3U8CFPQGreqmsBYiBM115LiUOZ0I71ZcTWNwfDdboKMZbKZhXUSHeDx0esuTVMxCEnP22XaYRY/s1600/IMG_4225.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgZnqPHhTxSjO8XUrhkIlPlxoVVOxeTsggPRetU58AklCxsEn7-f04iA0UlHtREzb2UJ3U8CFPQGreqmsBYiBM115LiUOZ0I71ZcTWNwfDdboKMZbKZhXUSHeDx0esuTVMxCEnP22XaYRY/s200/IMG_4225.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our enormous luxury<br />
shower</td></tr>
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We also bought some other little souvenirs in the bar - some shell and arrow fridge magnets which I love and similar to the blue tile with scallop shell I wanted to try and find in Santiago to include on my mosaic behind our AGA. I also got a pin which I wore on my rucksack and one for Uzzy too. She has it on her bag. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6bRJ9oJyoiZHsjt0PT4_PpHhhSbqMM2rbd16iuHn7LM99XEsTPYSUqMJgwBM-aJt3uBxrIP_rrcEgK6Zble-pYF8_sch2TGQk3W8iNsO58Pv2tYLYV_lZgV9_CIT5YXD3RspUrrE6QCGL/s1600/IMG_4204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1376" data-original-width="774" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6bRJ9oJyoiZHsjt0PT4_PpHhhSbqMM2rbd16iuHn7LM99XEsTPYSUqMJgwBM-aJt3uBxrIP_rrcEgK6Zble-pYF8_sch2TGQk3W8iNsO58Pv2tYLYV_lZgV9_CIT5YXD3RspUrrE6QCGL/s400/IMG_4204.JPG" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bar - near the cross at the "not" campo<br />
de fútbol - loved it because the posts<br />
that hold it up are pilgrim staves with<br />
gourds atop</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We did a quick shop in town to get some breakfast snacks for the walk into Santiago. I wanted to leave very early in the chance of getting to the pilgrim mass on time that day and to get my compostela. Little did I know how busy it would get and that this would not be possible on arrival - thank goodness I had allowed for an extra day and a bit in Santiago in order to enjoy the city, relax and explore and thank goodness I had planned to arrive early, well before 12.00 which would allow us an extra half a day in Santiago and all the time we needed in order to queue for the Compostela without panic!<br />
<br />
My foot had coped but was mighty sore. I rested it, coated it in ibuprofen gel again, too more anti inflammatories and had it elevated and still through the night. We were due to leave very early, packing everything into the car which Camiña said we could leave in the car park as M and I wanted to walk the last day into Santiago together. We would taxi back later to collect it and Camiña wanted us to phone her to say goodbye in person if she was not around when we returned. Being a Sunday the bar was going to be closed as they use it for their private family meal and so she said call her when we got back and she would come out to see us.<br />
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<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-12045469777093907212020-04-04T07:44:00.002-07:002020-04-21T06:19:17.769-07:00<b>El Camino (Levante) Silleda to beyond Dornellas (+/- 18.7km) - Friday 4th October, 2019. </b><br />
<br />
Well, today ended up long and exhausting with me doing extra and unexpected km... and yet, as it turned out, that was probably a blessing in disguise! In the end it meant I could take a few km off Friday's walk, for which I was most grateful when at the end of the day, going into a restaurant, I crunched my ankle and ended up unable to bear weight on it.. I could not believe it and was seriously stressed. What if I couldn't walk the last two days into Santiago?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnrhSl2RzT_PbJ-q7oEd8ZyEwBrMaLJx35wikdmZAZsI3zroLnWeWVJtXUtgYTTH0ilLfg-1Y2DnBu6R8zPrDjVt27IKvAgk-j0aIAlRwud6xZY08yFM2avTBN3bANNMCIxuBwocaQPu19/s1600/IMG_4145.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnrhSl2RzT_PbJ-q7oEd8ZyEwBrMaLJx35wikdmZAZsI3zroLnWeWVJtXUtgYTTH0ilLfg-1Y2DnBu6R8zPrDjVt27IKvAgk-j0aIAlRwud6xZY08yFM2avTBN3bANNMCIxuBwocaQPu19/s200/IMG_4145.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old trough/water catchment area</td></tr>
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For those reading at this point - the reason for the extra km's is an extended detour, we think, probably due to the new railway that has dogged the Camino along most of its length. The advantage of this is that I will end up with 2 x approximately 10km days, both short and sweet which allow me reduced walking on my foot, to rest it longer and in an elevated position in the afternoons and to arrive in Santiago early enough for the Pilgrim's Mass at 12.00... although this was not to be either (!) but more on that later. The change of plan also allowed me to walk directly to the albergue rather than trek back and forth to my end and start points and we will be able to leave the car at the albergue so that M and I can walk "together" into Santiago - as he has accompanied me and acted as support vehicle, catering vehicle and cafe con leche provider for the whole trip. This was particularly important when I was walking with the dogs - carrying extra first aid, dog food and water for them, alongside proving them with a place to bed down for the night by camping out with them. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHYjEv0ipm8iTwPX_8uhFbHp7BHUM_XjfFGZrmtMsLJCjqXcfs459AgXRQQwKPOQbsSTmKeAiQIhKyi3zNsXzeqxbTBviiBO9LyrXpnA1cb6j-w5e0BXshyULX8w9mF6cdg4CRCfkoT50k/s1600/IMG_4142.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHYjEv0ipm8iTwPX_8uhFbHp7BHUM_XjfFGZrmtMsLJCjqXcfs459AgXRQQwKPOQbsSTmKeAiQIhKyi3zNsXzeqxbTBviiBO9LyrXpnA1cb6j-w5e0BXshyULX8w9mF6cdg4CRCfkoT50k/s320/IMG_4142.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trade sign on the door lintel of one of the medieval homes<br />
so those that could not read would know the tradesman<br />
or trade practiced within<br />
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</tbody></table>
It stared out in drizzle with M accompanying me through the darkened streets, shining a torch onto posts and fences, trees and rocks in the hope of catching the glimpse of an arrow. We both wanted to see the medieval village of O Foxo where the guidebook promised the medieval road was still the main street and the houses still exhibited the original trade signs over the doors. We did not find many but the example here was just fabulous and so exciting to see. I have never come across anything like this before. <br />
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The old road is still in tact and goes right through most of the village and it is amazing to think that for most of the way to Santiago, we follow the original pilgrim route, when there are so many modern roads that could easily have destroyed them. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlgMpxtdtaTdaLVx3FF079uAW8G7PWtaCwheR1WIAnvjH4LlDhzEc8EAM6gjQSicoH9ZYXNmSZklTp_Z0B9uYGKcEOH-i0mnNsf62AvS0kL9VtsDezRl_D3CXlgGC9yv2YW4XFNQj4L9aD/s1600/IMG_4146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlgMpxtdtaTdaLVx3FF079uAW8G7PWtaCwheR1WIAnvjH4LlDhzEc8EAM6gjQSicoH9ZYXNmSZklTp_Z0B9uYGKcEOH-i0mnNsf62AvS0kL9VtsDezRl_D3CXlgGC9yv2YW4XFNQj4L9aD/s320/IMG_4146.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqye3-ZWyW6zqYlbm4Ve4KoHxSkG2IDWs34AanGf1q5_16SBY5vD0rX-EFsMeuWFsHNtOrNMc94CKEq7C1GPlwUXsHSU1sDOfP6AwsV3Rg67US5nUuxpKa64Wa2GbsaOKKZrRzoOi4RFWZ/s1600/IMG_4148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqye3-ZWyW6zqYlbm4Ve4KoHxSkG2IDWs34AanGf1q5_16SBY5vD0rX-EFsMeuWFsHNtOrNMc94CKEq7C1GPlwUXsHSU1sDOfP6AwsV3Rg67US5nUuxpKa64Wa2GbsaOKKZrRzoOi4RFWZ/s200/IMG_4148.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Underpass before Bandeira - adorned<br />
with Santiago symbols inside</td></tr>
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I arrived at Bandeira and the fabulous cafe - Victorino, which is also a new albergue not listed in my book. They are such friendly people and there were many pilgrim bags waiting for transfer as their owners walked on with day packs to their next location. This transportation of "mochillas" is more and more common and the Correos (postal service) offer it for €4.00 per stage. We sat down for the most delicious revueltos y chorizo for breakfast and a great coffee. I would certainly stay here if I was walking this way next time.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqW9v9nRyU4OA7rYDoz9sD3F5DpIu0tWsFiE1AW3lKuEFmJIwrHwn8hsb1qibLzcyi53ws9AcD5wTDh5paaikWPCuuSEgjEmb5kNKfFx76Z9AGtmnDjL7rU5f1qA0bKAFAnVGccqEikaNS/s1600/IMG_4149.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqW9v9nRyU4OA7rYDoz9sD3F5DpIu0tWsFiE1AW3lKuEFmJIwrHwn8hsb1qibLzcyi53ws9AcD5wTDh5paaikWPCuuSEgjEmb5kNKfFx76Z9AGtmnDjL7rU5f1qA0bKAFAnVGccqEikaNS/s200/IMG_4149.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
Check out the Hotel Victorino Lera Xesbran S L<br />
Calle Bandeira, 35<br />
36540<br />
Bandeira<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKhboq-spt8k6UVjNWnE6T18OMsYGNsE0zLxr2Mt8NBqCB6pfo32UnrGYHR9UIMMTuEasMZxWUNxVW7mYiNUuEp8M3I9G6Ao7DfCrMVbD74f9KUFyj3HFWgYvLwX2MiMquSeOHIVe3-DHz/s1600/IMG_4150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKhboq-spt8k6UVjNWnE6T18OMsYGNsE0zLxr2Mt8NBqCB6pfo32UnrGYHR9UIMMTuEasMZxWUNxVW7mYiNUuEp8M3I9G6Ao7DfCrMVbD74f9KUFyj3HFWgYvLwX2MiMquSeOHIVe3-DHz/s200/IMG_4150.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The symbols in the<br />
underpass</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I stayed at the Conde Rey which was find, friendly and in the guidebook. Not expensive and a perfect pilgrim stop over and location, also in the main high street, but the bathroom was minuscule and the bath was really just a deep version of a shower tray! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI-SALh0GFurmtDToZZFJarRPyvui3p0RvNUxGi4KYWYyU4EuF7azvInvB1KiVqnxVU6hED2CcoV3tNVL-UDDVr2TKunuE5LG7qLweyr4oXcofLzHqLtejPym0vPOZyjydqZ5DWpOA24zF/s1600/IMG_4151.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI-SALh0GFurmtDToZZFJarRPyvui3p0RvNUxGi4KYWYyU4EuF7azvInvB1KiVqnxVU6hED2CcoV3tNVL-UDDVr2TKunuE5LG7qLweyr4oXcofLzHqLtejPym0vPOZyjydqZ5DWpOA24zF/s400/IMG_4151.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Advertising the Victoriano </td></tr>
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In Victorino, which we had breakfast, a few American and other pilgrims came in for breakfast too, or to collect bocadillos and some were just later leaving for the day. After this I was set for the next leg of the journey, along a LOT of tar road and which would take me all the way to Dornelas. Wow, another GREAT albergue here. Brand new and beautifully built. More on that to come. As I headed out a marching, speedy pilgrim overtook me - carrying the most enormous staff I have ever seen! He asked me where I was going and he pointed that he would be past Ponte Ulla, staking at the albergue of O Oteiro, wow, these guys cover some huge km each day. It was only when I passed it myself the next day that I realised how far he had gone and also how he would have had to do the steep decent and ascent into and out of Ponte Ulla in order to get there! <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuE0AHtOd03VlPHjQ9UrGp1XxbyZ0x8F8e9P0rsbUhmo3IXWIDIcM2tDqm42atV1eJmAisxBF2ekeC1jOXr3rF507htsMXHhsYRTQNBJHK9exXeo5ruS8Fncnadn8ogtCSwy0p0Fhl4bTW/s1600/IMG_4154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuE0AHtOd03VlPHjQ9UrGp1XxbyZ0x8F8e9P0rsbUhmo3IXWIDIcM2tDqm42atV1eJmAisxBF2ekeC1jOXr3rF507htsMXHhsYRTQNBJHK9exXeo5ruS8Fncnadn8ogtCSwy0p0Fhl4bTW/s200/IMG_4154.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bread delivery box</td></tr>
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I was glad he passed me though as he had been rattling away at full volume on his mobile, all the way down the hill behind me from Bandeira. I thought one was supposed to pay attention to the Camino? He must have been chatting full on for over 30 mins and not quite catching me up. I am not even sure he needed the phone given how loudly he was talking! Anyway, once past me he was soon out of sight. I had stopped to take a photo thus allowing him a bit more catch up time, of a "bread post box" - specially to message to my mother. This would be perfect for her - bread delivery right to your door. We are always joking that she can live on bread and potatoes alone - this kind of service seems made for her.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj8RmXlWukqMOiCcNP70pZgq69HVHxL6xU8QOdGKd_-grlpsADl3XYyKL65M0udiq8gwncuG1lnU-L0EVxfCxDOlMUoVXI_jL5VMOMMbx_tr85JBeYHYPaZvZihIjLwG145oq8cw8IQxqQ/s1600/IMG_4155.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj8RmXlWukqMOiCcNP70pZgq69HVHxL6xU8QOdGKd_-grlpsADl3XYyKL65M0udiq8gwncuG1lnU-L0EVxfCxDOlMUoVXI_jL5VMOMMbx_tr85JBeYHYPaZvZihIjLwG145oq8cw8IQxqQ/s200/IMG_4155.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
A little further on from the bread box was a sign to what had reviewed as the most amazing restaurant (Porto do Sol de Lamela) with galician delicacies. We had been looking forward to visiting this but were more than a tad annoyed when they had not changed or updated opening times and we had driven out from Bandeira on the N525 and found it closed. It is not a cheap place either and to be honest, if you post a sign from the Camino to encourage pilgrims to walk out of their way, you better be open! If I had walked there, tired and hungry only to find it shut, I think I would have been tempted to throw a brick through the window!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBn8A492OV7jtxqVwQlIS8h_CtBp00bqfXQW3p_XZOnrkQPnJQaCjOHl2OYTCyy9ZnbuiY-ebDZyI_WcDV3mKTUl2XUoJhWoBFVEioqOvl9Y6xoIhrn1_MFCthZLOFCRXa2x-eV_1thSQc/s1600/IMG_4158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBn8A492OV7jtxqVwQlIS8h_CtBp00bqfXQW3p_XZOnrkQPnJQaCjOHl2OYTCyy9ZnbuiY-ebDZyI_WcDV3mKTUl2XUoJhWoBFVEioqOvl9Y6xoIhrn1_MFCthZLOFCRXa2x-eV_1thSQc/s200/IMG_4158.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeA3Tbm2pS221jt3oecxyLXEQZLZ4vMLj8WGdlqE3BN3i7HWd5WRdOTc-dvMicXU4PDTrb_z7v_esEc1xyAXekkRIyO6o1EscGP1wQF3skyq3EIoKZQa39MBWAryFzHvYuyJyZtNZMYa2W/s1600/IMG_4159.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeA3Tbm2pS221jt3oecxyLXEQZLZ4vMLj8WGdlqE3BN3i7HWd5WRdOTc-dvMicXU4PDTrb_z7v_esEc1xyAXekkRIyO6o1EscGP1wQF3skyq3EIoKZQa39MBWAryFzHvYuyJyZtNZMYa2W/s200/IMG_4159.JPG" width="200" /></a>Anyway, next stop was the wonderful and beautiful new albergue (another I could have had a stop at rather than walk so far... if only I had known about these and I must remember in the future to look more closely at Google Maps along the route when planning each stage as often they are marked) called Albergue - Cafetería "Casa Leiras". It is beautifully built with a wood fire to heat the rooms between the shower rooms which were spotlessly clean. What looks like and old vine press for grapes, is part of the interior design and the guy running it looked like he ws someone who had walked the Camino many times and was now setting up to run an albergue. He had built it up himself next to the path and was growing veggies to provide for the cuisine. There is more to build and finish and I really recommend staying here if you can add it into your Camino. It comes complete with Hórreo and cats! <br />
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<b><u>A note about sellos, the credential and the Compostela</u></b> - I had read that one needs two per day in the last 100km but as noted earlier, if you are leaving before they can stamp you out or arrive after the stamps have been given, then it is impossible. However, in researching my next Camino (the Ingles from Reading to Santiago) which will be done in two separate sections - England and Spain - one section is less than 100km if going from A Coruña. I thought one had to do 100km all in one go for the Compostela, but it appears that if you are doing two stretches and the total comes to more than 100km (walking, 200km on a bicycle) then you don't have to do the 100km all in one go and you don't have to collet two stamps per day. This rule apparently also came in in 2019. <br />
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The two stamps per day is essential if you are ONLY doing 100km and they do NOT have to be at your albergue. One can be where you stay but the other can be at bars, ayuntamientos, police stations, petrol stations and so on... You do NOT get a compostela if you walk less than 100km. I therefore think that his is finally the correct understanding of all the information I have gathered! To be sure - check with your Confraternity of St James in regard to the Camino you will be walking and my advice - get two stamps each day anyway - they are lovely to collect! <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLNI2rl3EeqoGfVYqZdGEd_yvCAaO1WfIJjU11_Qd7u7OL7PDGI8gM6mf0b-OPedL785HACPOiW6uzaIazI_3da3Qq1ggRYjZ26Yxzei1I_fzXT0lj9fDkiCdudx58KM1e5KkK7iyVqP-q/s1600/IMG_4160.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1376" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLNI2rl3EeqoGfVYqZdGEd_yvCAaO1WfIJjU11_Qd7u7OL7PDGI8gM6mf0b-OPedL785HACPOiW6uzaIazI_3da3Qq1ggRYjZ26Yxzei1I_fzXT0lj9fDkiCdudx58KM1e5KkK7iyVqP-q/s640/IMG_4160.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Asleep with my beer at Casa Leiras - I was feeling VERY tired! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxpOCPLBjJX0THFBkMA2RgWzfMcR_FusEI0DAauM7Z49Pk3bxfg8N4TTTMi86GAYXBrHSiIsSvQ2seq6ofh7aY-e87oJO1xgQGdWa6Fcb2Tukzso0XFsF3nXTsH3w7NHG-PK9kBSgH0RcD/s1600/IMG_4163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="587" data-original-width="1600" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxpOCPLBjJX0THFBkMA2RgWzfMcR_FusEI0DAauM7Z49Pk3bxfg8N4TTTMi86GAYXBrHSiIsSvQ2seq6ofh7aY-e87oJO1xgQGdWa6Fcb2Tukzso0XFsF3nXTsH3w7NHG-PK9kBSgH0RcD/s640/IMG_4163.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The way out of Dornelas - the Church of San Martiño de Dornelas</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzTxm6mReEClZ5InqRRZDo9G8cegvv-jXjtPLP4jgSzIF6OQ7GiAOE-OdVsccFSmFB5ygvYaHxdj1wV8JbYVp3RzPWMv9fVkQWhr7qAjyrPUSEdGv_0kxgtwVyR9umLGAJBms9B6r4SLVZ/s1600/IMG_4161.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzTxm6mReEClZ5InqRRZDo9G8cegvv-jXjtPLP4jgSzIF6OQ7GiAOE-OdVsccFSmFB5ygvYaHxdj1wV8JbYVp3RzPWMv9fVkQWhr7qAjyrPUSEdGv_0kxgtwVyR9umLGAJBms9B6r4SLVZ/s200/IMG_4161.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Growing by the houses in Dornelas</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoxoQo8z0ZDf7nNgumlzIrWRh8uNcHkdeGW5Mfbc_V9b0LmlS-Huo3cUsokiXDWOxQUlbDvAxXmeHHFVBLUnVSYgHd9JeArPhqbrOHAWl9rLKbHbh3b-L8seq_lzihD5K-gZ05xH-SmeuM/s1600/IMG_4164.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoxoQo8z0ZDf7nNgumlzIrWRh8uNcHkdeGW5Mfbc_V9b0LmlS-Huo3cUsokiXDWOxQUlbDvAxXmeHHFVBLUnVSYgHd9JeArPhqbrOHAWl9rLKbHbh3b-L8seq_lzihD5K-gZ05xH-SmeuM/s200/IMG_4164.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">San Martiño de Dornelas<br />
where the local youth meet<br />
to chat!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After the wonderfully welcome short break and a much on some delicious little pastries that M found in a bakery in Bandeiras, it was up yet another hill. The guidebook seems to be very misleading in suggesting that it is all downhill to Ponte Ulla - which to be honest it should be as it is on a river at the bottom of a steep sided valley (hmmm??)... anyway, more up before the down... and before lone I realised that there was a BIG diversion! This diversion comes after the 12th Century Romanesque church pictured here. The route itself is actually a much more beautiful and peaceful route and followed by a lady who I initially thought was a peregrino. She then stopped by a tree that was hollowed out by a fire and now a shrine. It was odd but rather beautiful - I would have taken a photo but it seems rather disrespectful to do so with her there as she was praying or meditating. I was then unsure if she perhaps cares for it - or maybe she had created it. It was filed with buen camino messages and other religious pictures and cards with a real candle burning, a vase of red "fresh" flowers and many pinned camino mementos. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBW3Ipo1muaxT4ruPR-WeXJ4CjJRDmYTYqOSG2Hiev8qrBDHccnzs1ZttYjmCVrotwSNEpX4vVxMhIxF-_xMkRoBZWWFd7wyK-2B0D0JgdP_G9kkM8lefcUxYIoe9jlszuPCh17PjIXXWk/s1600/IMG_4167.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBW3Ipo1muaxT4ruPR-WeXJ4CjJRDmYTYqOSG2Hiev8qrBDHccnzs1ZttYjmCVrotwSNEpX4vVxMhIxF-_xMkRoBZWWFd7wyK-2B0D0JgdP_G9kkM8lefcUxYIoe9jlszuPCh17PjIXXWk/s400/IMG_4167.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Originally we were going to meet at O Portiño, then<br />
changed to nera Bascuas as there was supposed to be<br />
a bar there... but neither worked out as the railway<br />
works have taken over this whole area. The black arrows<br />
show the diversion. </td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCm8vifA8wlC59yQXD-vddxYBvCQFql73QZ4qqbgY7orndxNwUOiw-vGhe9wYxd5fGtw7HNszN_Ye2-zMmMZb1Kz2BHFVrbTwiX6dOuFQQt3G6_DTS2_IwITjKCdiKy1SOCpDCc8DzvYWX/s1600/IMG_4166.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCm8vifA8wlC59yQXD-vddxYBvCQFql73QZ4qqbgY7orndxNwUOiw-vGhe9wYxd5fGtw7HNszN_Ye2-zMmMZb1Kz2BHFVrbTwiX6dOuFQQt3G6_DTS2_IwITjKCdiKy1SOCpDCc8DzvYWX/s200/IMG_4166.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Helpful indication from<br />
those who have gone this<br />
way before</td></tr>
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I walked on and later she followed but turned off the camino. My feet were tired but I continued to near "A Estrada" ready to do the last km or so into Ponte Ulla. There were amazing gardens with vines and flowers growing along teh boundaries and which shaded chickens beneath. Some had cabbages as a border, one in particular with a pear and apple orchard within and a hydrangea hedge. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRvqa_IW5Ffm2dFgrNRLMZ9BDGKLsE6-wUTTuuvDgsSyB-otENEB02aGBRsZt5sz4zMUyDELmrobpieMJXajUgymeSBXJYdXFqQpV5bITbRPF1DVBSgefziXVL6ewduGPuNHlIvZVGYY-3/s1600/IMG_4171.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRvqa_IW5Ffm2dFgrNRLMZ9BDGKLsE6-wUTTuuvDgsSyB-otENEB02aGBRsZt5sz4zMUyDELmrobpieMJXajUgymeSBXJYdXFqQpV5bITbRPF1DVBSgefziXVL6ewduGPuNHlIvZVGYY-3/s200/IMG_4171.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hydrangea hedge</td></tr>
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Ponte Ulla was not that far but I had been so tired at Dornelas that I had wanted to just stay asleep on my guidebook and couldn't finish my Estrella beer! However, I still decided to finish before Ponte Ulla (and I'm glad I did as the steep decent proved the point about it being in the bottom of a steep sided valley) as I'm not sure my legs would have been up to it that afternoon! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoFohkjeLuN7amUKuw-5oyOmZteTgLzdc08gBruEA_4L28iP4gBznFD2VzIBWaRMJEYjUT0ZAWIbRkV46lvqx02bYK0ZPi7fpI_QUA5R0h1KNkzveUJppxgrPbu_TEaW73Ol80HHIBnjoT/s1600/IMG_4174.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1376" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoFohkjeLuN7amUKuw-5oyOmZteTgLzdc08gBruEA_4L28iP4gBznFD2VzIBWaRMJEYjUT0ZAWIbRkV46lvqx02bYK0ZPi7fpI_QUA5R0h1KNkzveUJppxgrPbu_TEaW73Ol80HHIBnjoT/s320/IMG_4174.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rewarding myself with a yummy local delicacy from the<br />
Bandeira bakery! </td></tr>
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Overall it was a good day and I was chuffed that I was still in relatively fine fettle after almost 20km - much more than I had intended. The whole stage as suggested by the guidebook, is Silleda to Ponte Ulla is 24km... so I guess I'm now only around 4km off this... based on where I ended up.. and further than the original estimated 18.7km. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0jRkqI_QAlppj388QB6vTuJR_z_5J7vweXdKrN7D6gBVSTeEggA2THdaR71O37zfSVkq4_OhRfnTp-L1Wr3y3rqwUutDOLRECQC2n_UkWYi4p7TEN57PstYIw8paqTHJgyWrkjf_7xM7/s1600/IMG_4170.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0jRkqI_QAlppj388QB6vTuJR_z_5J7vweXdKrN7D6gBVSTeEggA2THdaR71O37zfSVkq4_OhRfnTp-L1Wr3y3rqwUutDOLRECQC2n_UkWYi4p7TEN57PstYIw8paqTHJgyWrkjf_7xM7/s200/IMG_4170.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roadside "vending machine"<br />
rest point - great idea</td></tr>
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As I found my way to the meeting point that I had estimated based on where I thought the trail would take me and where it might come out by following logical options on Google Maps as I walked, M appeared ahead and our combined efforts, along with the "Find Friends" app which showed where he was in relation to me, meant we were in the right place. He had parked a little along from a cute roadside "take away" stall - where pilgrims and help themselves to drinks and snacks from vending machines to take away or sit down for a break. <br />
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I wanted to make it a bit further, to the church at A Estrada, as a good point from which to commence the following day so he kind of curb crawled me the last km or so! As we headed back to the albergue in Bandeira we passed quite a few peregrinos continuing on into the late afternoon, no doubt aiming to spend the night in Ponte Ulla. The final "big" push before the trip into Santiago... it was getting closer! <br />
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And finally - the story of my ankle! Of all the dumb things to happen, it crunched, not really twisted, as I got out of the car to go out to dinner, the boot kind of getting stuck onto the pavement outside the restaurant. It bloody hurt!!! I thought it was just one of those things that walk a few steps and it would improve, but no, I had really, really hurt it - and through the evening it became more swollen and very painful. I grew more panicked that I wouldn't be able to walk the last two days, because despite being shorter, I could not see that I could limp slowly and still make either the distance or timing! <br />
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I took copious anti inflammatories and pain killers, elevated it and stayed really still, hoping for the best. In the morning, although a tad improved it still hurt, so I did what I could - rubbed masses of ibuprofen gel onto it, wrapped it in vet wrap as tightly as possible without cutting off the circulation, took pain killers and stood on it. Not great, but I could walk as long as I didn't bend it too much. Steps were horrible, but going downhill not too bad and on the flat at times it did not seem as though it was too much of a problem, but of course I favoured it. The only thing to do was to see what would happen and how it would go. <br />
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What I learnt from this later is that this is why higher sided boots are sensible and that with hiking shoes one is supposed to wear ankle supports. I now have these and will use them in the future, or bandage with vet wrap as a precaution anyway... but for now, I had to do what I could. Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-15949251673611118572020-04-03T08:37:00.001-07:002020-04-03T08:37:32.873-07:00<b>El Camino (Levante) Just above Botos to Silleda (just 15.5km) - Thursday 3rd October, 2019. </b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVIHKR571MS6Eh5j-iPLvlsj4PeVL5C9tJcuI3f49cV2dojTmuZOIX_adpPMptD0oL7hoLn9tZovi9LTneNp-RIgpk1oyJHF1VfF7TWEGL6TihCKK2dVUFtQ6rYuXDTcMay4Ti0THSBhgn/s1600/IMG_4074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVIHKR571MS6Eh5j-iPLvlsj4PeVL5C9tJcuI3f49cV2dojTmuZOIX_adpPMptD0oL7hoLn9tZovi9LTneNp-RIgpk1oyJHF1VfF7TWEGL6TihCKK2dVUFtQ6rYuXDTcMay4Ti0THSBhgn/s320/IMG_4074.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 13th Century Cross</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj80q7hgR9xurUBtb03Eq01bXOTMjmSzl8Q0DusOpwxvQDvnEc8ri1PpuupJhNMH8_p7Ubmpq0w9hAGAJgDI2JoOmREhNIVnsk3ZrMj6uUtDYore82_XT5FLg2dPoM6v5UfaSb_3ZHOkmpP/s1600/IMG_4071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj80q7hgR9xurUBtb03Eq01bXOTMjmSzl8Q0DusOpwxvQDvnEc8ri1PpuupJhNMH8_p7Ubmpq0w9hAGAJgDI2JoOmREhNIVnsk3ZrMj6uUtDYore82_XT5FLg2dPoM6v5UfaSb_3ZHOkmpP/s200/IMG_4071.JPG" width="150" /></a>Well, we were blessed with another amazing day and good weather although it started very chilly. I was slightly unnerved heading into deep forest, downhill into the dark... what was I thinking?! However, as the dawn broke and the mist rose, the peace of the village with the 13th Century cross surrounded me. Wow - this is what it is all about and that feeling of the past reaching out to shake hands with me enveloped me again.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMfuAAYum8pbPcTgQieJObKKI5m31Q0FYKc4w3EeQdWOtB93unj03LBS0b0ohUmbIx8tWRduRXtitBzGBH7JBymuwhFyFA2-EAnr3Dptyl7UkTLVImCPqnk1HNHvHx29ivu6dYaXEuQLD0/s1600/IMG_4080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMfuAAYum8pbPcTgQieJObKKI5m31Q0FYKc4w3EeQdWOtB93unj03LBS0b0ohUmbIx8tWRduRXtitBzGBH7JBymuwhFyFA2-EAnr3Dptyl7UkTLVImCPqnk1HNHvHx29ivu6dYaXEuQLD0/s200/IMG_4080.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Santiago over the door of the church</td></tr>
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The cross itself was amazing - really special to see one so old and still in such good condition with such carvings on it. It was such a special place, the church, the little village bar and the whole ambience was perfect. With not another pilgrim in sight - I had the whole place to myself with the odd dog barking as I passed by and a few stray cars heading out to work. There was a great frieze of Santiago himself, on the church standing over the door with his scallop shell. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeC3VEg3Mxq5DsjhzR1qVL5yNExtQa-EUxe9KJJFXzt9GQP3ElMAp2wOueGO5GreN7Hpyd8htuv2cOs_uO0E8M_-eMe4ZlgzH_8g8UMDE3guSNLOg4cs8MapOw7LLb9ES4n9DcVr1unRfu/s1600/IMG_4075.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeC3VEg3Mxq5DsjhzR1qVL5yNExtQa-EUxe9KJJFXzt9GQP3ElMAp2wOueGO5GreN7Hpyd8htuv2cOs_uO0E8M_-eMe4ZlgzH_8g8UMDE3guSNLOg4cs8MapOw7LLb9ES4n9DcVr1unRfu/s320/IMG_4075.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loved this little bar on the side of the road - it is on the left,<br />just before the 13th Century cross, which will appear on your<br />right as you head toward Santiago</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB4lKxYjaiBgRU7alyVJW7UamoYI9W6Dkzfvaz01DDrHmXorLp9hOmmqQP1lfyVEUeSNQNmqKvfHoYQkVmnC0sKeQjjBh2TcKaNQPRLpJfR2VBQ8TK7BDr8VlcsHiBs1k9ddewITXn_Vf7/s1600/IMG_4076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB4lKxYjaiBgRU7alyVJW7UamoYI9W6Dkzfvaz01DDrHmXorLp9hOmmqQP1lfyVEUeSNQNmqKvfHoYQkVmnC0sKeQjjBh2TcKaNQPRLpJfR2VBQ8TK7BDr8VlcsHiBs1k9ddewITXn_Vf7/s320/IMG_4076.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkg9MIGt7YPI6wmf1-EzVceN3ko9cM-6qMfnDmX_LQAOCpzQ_365VkaoI_x70C5JilkJy83fDGhcck9kHWIQdQ377f0UWiV3m7dcY_mRSxj939DQ9GnbIdPENJ5xlvodC79Sfh0_DWuYIL/s1600/DSCF1284.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkg9MIGt7YPI6wmf1-EzVceN3ko9cM-6qMfnDmX_LQAOCpzQ_365VkaoI_x70C5JilkJy83fDGhcck9kHWIQdQ377f0UWiV3m7dcY_mRSxj939DQ9GnbIdPENJ5xlvodC79Sfh0_DWuYIL/s640/DSCF1284.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This lane gives the general feel for the day. </td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8VTFUZVDp679s0KHdLYgWlxweqwkMz-eelLctpv3woP1Hdwq74YGdqnsaHQgnrwSo2urhFZizXrIDI8mjFAlMfGrhiytWehwO5RQ4uVFUojbAMpr110HD0acc_Ib4ds1Me8tnzlQGBPE3/s1600/IMG_4082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8VTFUZVDp679s0KHdLYgWlxweqwkMz-eelLctpv3woP1Hdwq74YGdqnsaHQgnrwSo2urhFZizXrIDI8mjFAlMfGrhiytWehwO5RQ4uVFUojbAMpr110HD0acc_Ib4ds1Me8tnzlQGBPE3/s200/IMG_4082.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The new albergue being constructed<br />after Botos</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2bTOvhEkf5e4ZmoVHhTBSSbyio2qz24eh8s2v3o2ZJfnAGWT7RNVhdZ95wcCFKv_U9hbQeP9pYgAU84cwz4FQ0tLfcUeVJMcMezSKh1ktZU2s0-OcQC_4ea19LAilH-SwJN6acbrG3NPu/s1600/IMG_4081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2bTOvhEkf5e4ZmoVHhTBSSbyio2qz24eh8s2v3o2ZJfnAGWT7RNVhdZ95wcCFKv_U9hbQeP9pYgAU84cwz4FQ0tLfcUeVJMcMezSKh1ktZU2s0-OcQC_4ea19LAilH-SwJN6acbrG3NPu/s200/IMG_4081.JPG" width="200" /></a>There were lovely lanes and little villages along this route. There is a new albergue touistica being built just after Botos. This is well worth knowing as once finished, this is an ideal location to stop for the night with the next stop at Silleda. It would have been perfect for me. It is so nice to see that there is a call for more to be built. I'm not sure when it will be finished but for anyone walking this post 2019... or now post 2020, keep an eye out for it. Of course, in the current economic climate and with the Camino abandoned during these spring and summer months, I feel for all those who make a living along the route as they will lose out and head into winter with nothing. Buildings such as this may end up being abandoned - who knows if these businesses will survive. I hope that pilgrims will be able to confidently make their way to Santiago again - I am sure it must seem strange there right now, deserted and without the many pilgrims that arrive each day into the city. In 2018 (the year before I completed my Camino) 300,000 made it with the busiest time being July and August.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3P3NblV9TbR_HxwDAgykOfhn_BJIajcg7McRPnQh8vGa_CTJrF8TzVv1q5w4jnM-uwubgmPHbTvjrBdEFcfM-tHMWHvD_EBPMtCkty-MD5aI8D1P4N6BqcgUjzz2l0JY5JUcdsl_0IfG0/s1600/IMG_4083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3P3NblV9TbR_HxwDAgykOfhn_BJIajcg7McRPnQh8vGa_CTJrF8TzVv1q5w4jnM-uwubgmPHbTvjrBdEFcfM-tHMWHvD_EBPMtCkty-MD5aI8D1P4N6BqcgUjzz2l0JY5JUcdsl_0IfG0/s200/IMG_4083.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The actual arrow is behind you! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJaAowJ7G6Ulf-IKicNq8HtdGPQ8Iq7QlkHuwBvrpAvfY9kcI62g6k4ZSByPvdYeyHH6WzPx-NszPcbZWHXmE61H6OQAeXINZgaTykzFYWWplKUKxN-ORkN4fV3ssYXszUcScixO821X3v/s1600/DSCF1285.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJaAowJ7G6Ulf-IKicNq8HtdGPQ8Iq7QlkHuwBvrpAvfY9kcI62g6k4ZSByPvdYeyHH6WzPx-NszPcbZWHXmE61H6OQAeXINZgaTykzFYWWplKUKxN-ORkN4fV3ssYXszUcScixO821X3v/s200/DSCF1285.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">They have some very fancy "squiggly" arrows <br />in this part of Galicia - we were not sure why</td></tr>
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As I headed into Bendoiro there was a mastin on a broken chain. Highly unnerving! I was not at all sure if it would be friendly and I was exceedingly glad that I wasn't still walking with one of our dogs! I just kept my eyes away and walking as nonchalantly as possible, it ignored me and I crossed the road, following the arrows which, annoyingly, took me around to the albergue! I didn't want the albergue - although it is a lovely building and very modern, with apparently a new extension to it. It appeared to be currently closed though... anyway, the arrows appeared to point on past it and up a slight incline, but as I reached the top and headed under a road bridge, the route suggested it was the equestrian route and was pointing "back" the way I had come... I wandered around for a bit and felt frustrated. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwcIBqAGYUnUaX32kjRVc5wf8aY73zUFTvZ3cyNv6PJPl0W9cZ2F4FLXdjQ5bKGPwsYdE1uL3eH7gz2F1aooZTnbhkh8oN_7tA4hv7Z7ZH2O35eE_LcVMKQOuKhXffj0R5kmfVUo03f_n/s1600/IMG_4087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwcIBqAGYUnUaX32kjRVc5wf8aY73zUFTvZ3cyNv6PJPl0W9cZ2F4FLXdjQ5bKGPwsYdE1uL3eH7gz2F1aooZTnbhkh8oN_7tA4hv7Z7ZH2O35eE_LcVMKQOuKhXffj0R5kmfVUo03f_n/s200/IMG_4087.JPG" width="150" /></a>Messaged M to see if he could drive back and find arrows on the other side of the town and where I should be from where I should emerge... and as I did, there they were, hidden "around the corner" that I had come and heading on past the albergue the other side and up a hill, back to the town and the road I had just crossed only a few metres from where I had started out... very annoyed. The arrow, for those of you who follow on, will be "behind you" as you come toward the albergue - what you need to do is actually turn left when you see it ahead... although actually it is much easier to just turn left up the road as you arrive in the town! You will end up in exactly the same place.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF8L4hmYOvhtUFJhfWucHB_G-ofj5E8VKAkLKWAs92vojUZ8RyrZ0_3gMgBlvHL4gccCx__D9hBx5FgtnXostXKrlD5e21SjkqKywNZJ6Pa5yQZEPT54N7r3BqTLv-Et52ymFRmYrQ2e4s/s1600/IMG_4086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF8L4hmYOvhtUFJhfWucHB_G-ofj5E8VKAkLKWAs92vojUZ8RyrZ0_3gMgBlvHL4gccCx__D9hBx5FgtnXostXKrlD5e21SjkqKywNZJ6Pa5yQZEPT54N7r3BqTLv-Et52ymFRmYrQ2e4s/s320/IMG_4086.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the track that runs to the left of the N-525<br />and around the back of the houses in Bendoiro</td></tr>
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I continued on, the camino winding back and forth a little across the N 525. I had thought it might end up being a road walk along it, but it doesn't and it is a really lovely stretch. I came into Prado and ahead M had parked with a delicious bocadillo and coffee, right outside the Taberna de Prado. However, the camino takes a left here around the back of the houses and so I didn't see him or our meeting point. I was busy admiring a scallop shaped manhole cover and taking a photo when dogs started barking as someone whistled loudly. I didn't take any notice until I realised the whistle was meant for me - it was M trying to attract my attention to collect breakfast! I backtracked the few metres and found a bench (thank you Jayne) outside a feretería (ironmongers) and enjoyed a nice little break in the chilly morning air full of the pleasant sunshine that promised warmth later. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7sZGDBI6sEpHRyhO8tmOs3fFNw91rUEMOsVTGr-SjAs0fI9KVnis1B9gP1Kphjz1SCShzHXJivTpiwpX4Bml3c-zfBH2le_Ns318gwuyCfE3RYOx4dwYSjQQvzrzm0TgypRRYfFoug8wP/s1600/IMG_4088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7sZGDBI6sEpHRyhO8tmOs3fFNw91rUEMOsVTGr-SjAs0fI9KVnis1B9gP1Kphjz1SCShzHXJivTpiwpX4Bml3c-zfBH2le_Ns318gwuyCfE3RYOx4dwYSjQQvzrzm0TgypRRYfFoug8wP/s200/IMG_4088.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Who can't admire a scallop<br />themed manhole cover! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6aG2WdTra2-7kusKtylxr1n56rJOK2hMNQfqlIMPJ-6cLipbkocDtosaYjloAVYfRZF_XNfY1XNtEPb06flq79Tv6bhhEdUv_DuAHpJntFZ_6hY5fLYuSfBgPGC00x02XOdsx0L-xaJEt/s1600/IMG_4089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6aG2WdTra2-7kusKtylxr1n56rJOK2hMNQfqlIMPJ-6cLipbkocDtosaYjloAVYfRZF_XNfY1XNtEPb06flq79Tv6bhhEdUv_DuAHpJntFZ_6hY5fLYuSfBgPGC00x02XOdsx0L-xaJEt/s200/IMG_4089.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Co-operative for cheese<br />that offers sellos, just up<br />from the bridge. </td></tr>
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Two or there pilgrims passed me today - mostly at a brisk pace in the town of Prado. I still have no idea why they all walk so fast! From here M and I intended to meet at the medieval bridge of "Ponte de Taboada". The guidebook promised it to be worthwhile and a good one - so although this meant M parking up and taking a reasonable hike back to the bridge, we both wanted to see it and it is off the beaten track and not accessible by vehicle. Wow - what an incredible and fabulous find! It was totally worth it - so much so, that if you are in the region and not even walking the camino, it is worth parking up and walking to it either from Prado, or from the Silleda side. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU6szuKKNGrXQX1IHN4dCAxzcBq4p7VS9UwaWrxpYmBCPNB9zgHPEJTGsG9kSigt-BFHBeCEYxURZr5I_4hyaG0LQlEm56Ug_dXB4xNWX_w2SWq-OfpBFfmzJ7wmtf0eslr8KFBa33epN7/s1600/IMG_4102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1376" data-original-width="774" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU6szuKKNGrXQX1IHN4dCAxzcBq4p7VS9UwaWrxpYmBCPNB9zgHPEJTGsG9kSigt-BFHBeCEYxURZr5I_4hyaG0LQlEm56Ug_dXB4xNWX_w2SWq-OfpBFfmzJ7wmtf0eslr8KFBa33epN7/s640/IMG_4102.JPG" width="360" /></a>This amazing bridge was built in the 10th Century - 912 AD to be precise and the route takes advantage of the old Roman road that also came this way. There is no trace of the Roman road, but there is a lot of the medieval one left. It was like stepping into the past, because the road and bridge are in such good condition. Parts were rebuilt in the 16th Century, but that's still 500 years ago! <br />
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To think that his bridge was carrying pilgrims across the river and on to Santiago de Compostela, 430 years before Richard III was born and 470 year before his coronation! It would have seen the decline of pilgrims after the Black Death and probably helped carry the plague to other villages - it was in existence 336 years before the Black Death arrived in June 1348. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGLenvuYc-nAdzYslrRIeajKUtyIMtOcW1NQu1ZyHxEdqvPZjKwUp2PzZUaluKHdft5-HKIRc_0pPHD8iHxLYXq50z2FvVdDT7exKnc2RWfYXTSItYja6Z3eG021TZ3kfI3MHuRrF8VRyP/s1600/IMG_4094.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGLenvuYc-nAdzYslrRIeajKUtyIMtOcW1NQu1ZyHxEdqvPZjKwUp2PzZUaluKHdft5-HKIRc_0pPHD8iHxLYXq50z2FvVdDT7exKnc2RWfYXTSItYja6Z3eG021TZ3kfI3MHuRrF8VRyP/s200/IMG_4094.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Medieval road before<br />meeting the bridge</td></tr>
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We stopped to enjoy the wonder of the place and to take photos and soak up the history. <br />
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It was wonderful and truly one of the highlights of my trip. Probably second only to arriving in Santiago itself - so forgive the indulgence in photographs at this point. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge6MB-sG18nejFfLOBnE5JRyVMAb2-fatRWz_llRWzbsyOoI8RCEwaTTgW3jJ_ZcQnKfSaUJqIKnh7uzq5QRWHHuz5zfoStQbYGzDsbMkDKCczGxg5fWHx2NY26bys1EhwhObBtbqNtEyz/s1600/IMG_4098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge6MB-sG18nejFfLOBnE5JRyVMAb2-fatRWz_llRWzbsyOoI8RCEwaTTgW3jJ_ZcQnKfSaUJqIKnh7uzq5QRWHHuz5zfoStQbYGzDsbMkDKCczGxg5fWHx2NY26bys1EhwhObBtbqNtEyz/s320/IMG_4098.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back toward the direction of Prado</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWqHfRTO3ylAFFuM9cf1X_ppFIkDbHPq8lAw_L_bwpaoMyNm5Umkq4vYc9-zh2YU6gtulCYjAuEeroq30j9eSxm_BJwL0H-_hgUT165LeUhCucAMswjQJLLC0V22pRgTLEYA-NMMdL4lMx/s1600/IMG_4101.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWqHfRTO3ylAFFuM9cf1X_ppFIkDbHPq8lAw_L_bwpaoMyNm5Umkq4vYc9-zh2YU6gtulCYjAuEeroq30j9eSxm_BJwL0H-_hgUT165LeUhCucAMswjQJLLC0V22pRgTLEYA-NMMdL4lMx/s200/IMG_4101.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The way to Silleda</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhg6FywIzzLYyCxMfyvyhWKdZrFcR_htuJP2JaDiEqGHDkmRO7Dijf2XU5AoJLfxuyJTcVPnbPJ1f-j4rxF5U9G5Xj07c6NO4eZ76PToavT6bRjRKpwXEb-yqLzPTr5ygv6ckeWLu26IL6/s1600/IMG_4103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1376" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhg6FywIzzLYyCxMfyvyhWKdZrFcR_htuJP2JaDiEqGHDkmRO7Dijf2XU5AoJLfxuyJTcVPnbPJ1f-j4rxF5U9G5Xj07c6NO4eZ76PToavT6bRjRKpwXEb-yqLzPTr5ygv6ckeWLu26IL6/s400/IMG_4103.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOHPFGzLpGCSUBklucTAhiFlmHe0eytwuPyxXWj5YkpAbxJaKpi_bEFPxgZpqokGaI4WB2iNIdhrOHTLFqTqYnotGZpQ9Bm6tGvxgMnYquJDN9uDq6IPfMRJGKqEO-jqVOoCsAfcSgykjy/s1600/IMG_4105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1376" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOHPFGzLpGCSUBklucTAhiFlmHe0eytwuPyxXWj5YkpAbxJaKpi_bEFPxgZpqokGaI4WB2iNIdhrOHTLFqTqYnotGZpQ9Bm6tGvxgMnYquJDN9uDq6IPfMRJGKqEO-jqVOoCsAfcSgykjy/s640/IMG_4105.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPfthPAeHdI8kEfhw6e4Abb195HGy1oCikYI90bif2cQUf4cZaZMkc46ev0-9msAZfZwKOWBM2eHAAJ1OBhA9OaPtrspKYImNT9-1i1OiNps4exiHypWL4Gvb6gd-qYUml8fXoTBp9h1XX/s1600/IMG_4104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1376" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPfthPAeHdI8kEfhw6e4Abb195HGy1oCikYI90bif2cQUf4cZaZMkc46ev0-9msAZfZwKOWBM2eHAAJ1OBhA9OaPtrspKYImNT9-1i1OiNps4exiHypWL4Gvb6gd-qYUml8fXoTBp9h1XX/s320/IMG_4104.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It is really quite "pointy" on top!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeXSTm477gRAljQQ_UhluF-HcGzRz8cgiFjvmkpwa-aCKxLVJnt8CMYiJfnqC6f4T-0FiLtZSII188xLDFBVgMO7ll9wG-yDo3muF9d4uyaMggWm1kvEqFy3j5fxfop0_zDa68beosz8Q4/s1600/IMG_4107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeXSTm477gRAljQQ_UhluF-HcGzRz8cgiFjvmkpwa-aCKxLVJnt8CMYiJfnqC6f4T-0FiLtZSII188xLDFBVgMO7ll9wG-yDo3muF9d4uyaMggWm1kvEqFy3j5fxfop0_zDa68beosz8Q4/s200/IMG_4107.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyeUZzMXcLBlSEe8Q5GyskFG_LgQd3XXFEXkOqSSmm2eUYnEfOjdupAAzEACzVlSAWVchyTpcJ1iZBOzTRu8wuKemtnUXW2XWHXoC-6BO3fFi-oEdvqHG06V2cGOcXtVMpttnQgZaAw7eN/s1600/IMG_4106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1376" data-original-width="774" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyeUZzMXcLBlSEe8Q5GyskFG_LgQd3XXFEXkOqSSmm2eUYnEfOjdupAAzEACzVlSAWVchyTpcJ1iZBOzTRu8wuKemtnUXW2XWHXoC-6BO3fFi-oEdvqHG06V2cGOcXtVMpttnQgZaAw7eN/s320/IMG_4106.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the apex</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpjNoN9Hm91mQoFJYL8l1EuaTSe82Q1yiHfFZOT00b_Iei3r2JLMtAJ_XUm7E6USP8SuLwU9UewQ-Q_jB_LAVLw0FBVcA7E3Gcbcl4o6AcT8vJ5Y1tEnRNp8FXsGJXx3h8kelGwb2n2puD/s1600/IMG_4111.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1376" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpjNoN9Hm91mQoFJYL8l1EuaTSe82Q1yiHfFZOT00b_Iei3r2JLMtAJ_XUm7E6USP8SuLwU9UewQ-Q_jB_LAVLw0FBVcA7E3Gcbcl4o6AcT8vJ5Y1tEnRNp8FXsGJXx3h8kelGwb2n2puD/s320/IMG_4111.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading toward the next village - Carballeda and on to<br />Silleda - pretty much medieval road now all the way<br />to Silleda, including as you arrive into the outskirts<br />of the town </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWwVBZbebdv6jHwVrCbrrxP4rD_dtDIKnR_DiZNQv6-1TL1lv3Sj1QIe0F8-U2vVUYWn9c1rRiNAPTMnbQm2KlNJJQPucXOQWf9sXiupjPQaZdIV_fSe-_tw1j-GudFQyg2M-DhLpD_urX/s1600/IMG_4115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWwVBZbebdv6jHwVrCbrrxP4rD_dtDIKnR_DiZNQv6-1TL1lv3Sj1QIe0F8-U2vVUYWn9c1rRiNAPTMnbQm2KlNJJQPucXOQWf9sXiupjPQaZdIV_fSe-_tw1j-GudFQyg2M-DhLpD_urX/s200/IMG_4115.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Spanish" chestnuts<br />gathered on the way</td></tr>
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It was nice to be able to walk together for a bit and enjoy the scenery on this lovely day. It was getting warm as expected and we saw the odd pilgrim or two ahead, checking the route or stopping to photograph things along the way. A few more were appreciating what surrounded them and it was nice to see. We stopped to gather chestnuts - as previously noted, what a crop this year, fat, swollen kernels of deliciousness - yum (!) We had some to eat on our journey and in the hostel. We even managed to take some home to share with Uz. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP_hyphenhyphenXwaSEUb0giYStACroEv3dXS1bx0mdDYtaxOIhO3O65L9uX43SN6iwgCtWbVgPvKVfRAhSxuTqXzlbfwlQOYGZO3cjJCQUWvfWEhqLvsHrWCDnJyuh5uHm3Gsa_3dUNM6s6jlDmLgK/s1600/IMG_4112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP_hyphenhyphenXwaSEUb0giYStACroEv3dXS1bx0mdDYtaxOIhO3O65L9uX43SN6iwgCtWbVgPvKVfRAhSxuTqXzlbfwlQOYGZO3cjJCQUWvfWEhqLvsHrWCDnJyuh5uHm3Gsa_3dUNM6s6jlDmLgK/s320/IMG_4112.JPG" width="320" /></a>This was a lovely part of the walk. On the top of a wall someone had left a basket of apples saying that pilgrims could help themselves. There were lots of lovely shells and shrines along the way and fountains for refreshments. It was one of the most relaxing "strolls" along the Camino I have done! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJiuCBi09cVFenRe3CQ-QfrByO7nmsycGBFNUP8G-AfEpowLMJXOs6muBuXiEuCP1gIluOKolDJfP7M64kzvFcpC3KfirCyYfNzcf5QpxRPSTT3VVOjBx0wb-yYQOoUBBsLY3VxRYTaJKB/s1600/IMG_4113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJiuCBi09cVFenRe3CQ-QfrByO7nmsycGBFNUP8G-AfEpowLMJXOs6muBuXiEuCP1gIluOKolDJfP7M64kzvFcpC3KfirCyYfNzcf5QpxRPSTT3VVOjBx0wb-yYQOoUBBsLY3VxRYTaJKB/s200/IMG_4113.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pilgrims - help yourselves</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ONunoIDY8lnFyJQQre4rnYgsi7C1Mf1TQ8ZtcjlP6TuJFrzl4ccq6N-0Eoah6_SAvcrC4LvwHG4QiNqdQs2p3rZmzOnQnQtt-o0CSUgc8DW5Q2pc-8mzXJ5-FkUCdtaw7Opts-L1-d14/s1600/IMG_4114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_ONunoIDY8lnFyJQQre4rnYgsi7C1Mf1TQ8ZtcjlP6TuJFrzl4ccq6N-0Eoah6_SAvcrC4LvwHG4QiNqdQs2p3rZmzOnQnQtt-o0CSUgc8DW5Q2pc-8mzXJ5-FkUCdtaw7Opts-L1-d14/s200/IMG_4114.JPG" width="200" /></a>Michael and I separated ways at the water fountain, he had to go a slightly different route to find the car as he hadn't quite got the location right and couldn't find the arrows initially - so he had walked in from a different direction. I continued on toward Silleda and would meet him as I entered the town. He was going to park up at the hostal and walk down to meet me. The albergue actually had a private garage below - with an interesting electric door where you had to kind of sprint round after pressing in order to get back to open the back door and get out or vice versa to get in. You had to be quick if there were other cars behind and you were blocking the street! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgic99XwVz-fN5rxcFCLmFPHxx4Pl033PRJ84pACDNU45ivjvPAE1FoDCkDe9xw-7GqWyQSw5oXow026zzfQwG06mEsfKdp1TkAMfD2_RnEOf1vstiZQYzmaUpLnZtINY8nNAufsaOFN_jH/s1600/IMG_4123.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgic99XwVz-fN5rxcFCLmFPHxx4Pl033PRJ84pACDNU45ivjvPAE1FoDCkDe9xw-7GqWyQSw5oXow026zzfQwG06mEsfKdp1TkAMfD2_RnEOf1vstiZQYzmaUpLnZtINY8nNAufsaOFN_jH/s320/IMG_4123.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These really were enormous!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyeiKiygP786J0tdcQ64sDykH5uiz1ioaL7eXZoudX4t_tiJxMDhlrT9A_44lvpOLFwnWR9Jgfv29jU-O0txevrjpgNXoWQEifoi_8x4lerjyCI1uZCqFXT99Mi4fGYjkBhVW0vJuyP7yw/s1600/IMG_4108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyeiKiygP786J0tdcQ64sDykH5uiz1ioaL7eXZoudX4t_tiJxMDhlrT9A_44lvpOLFwnWR9Jgfv29jU-O0txevrjpgNXoWQEifoi_8x4lerjyCI1uZCqFXT99Mi4fGYjkBhVW0vJuyP7yw/s200/IMG_4108.JPG" width="200" /></a>I headed on through more beautiful woodlands to Silleda. Another long stretch of medieval road scattered with little shrines, with crosses made under tree trunks. A sign with a home drawn pilgrim wearing a backpack, telling friends where they are staying in Silleda and sad, half starved but beautiful cows lining the way. The sweet smell of haulage hung over the paddocks and I found a grove of HUGE fairy toadstools, one giant one in particular, on the side of the Camino. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4gRFHZKvUOEtwwN2mxO2smhroWNwybysvV9V86RHKMvd9Wh91Uhts_MlnE1adkAo9JtNZKcm_lDyzXPC7NrwJ3a6I3VylFvHexcUjMEmcCuifx1mV7PXk5cwkI-n7dN9l2yCmGarT1MZA/s1600/DSCF1287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4gRFHZKvUOEtwwN2mxO2smhroWNwybysvV9V86RHKMvd9Wh91Uhts_MlnE1adkAo9JtNZKcm_lDyzXPC7NrwJ3a6I3VylFvHexcUjMEmcCuifx1mV7PXk5cwkI-n7dN9l2yCmGarT1MZA/s320/DSCF1287.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjimU23DTU2x3wQTHjjU88KLvK_KIDfTpYTRQ1EXTgJObBeHBhAXU6uWbTZRTgB-R-ZqvEuP-WbcZLE-gqTpw2zUu52i_Uokq2RfN7VQe5WCknZn36nvkv3S8jD2wuRtZ2ZE_yh2gnyXlEN/s1600/IMG_4120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjimU23DTU2x3wQTHjjU88KLvK_KIDfTpYTRQ1EXTgJObBeHBhAXU6uWbTZRTgB-R-ZqvEuP-WbcZLE-gqTpw2zUu52i_Uokq2RfN7VQe5WCknZn36nvkv3S8jD2wuRtZ2ZE_yh2gnyXlEN/s200/IMG_4120.JPG" width="150" /></a>As I approached Deza (I think it was here anyway) there was an albergue more like a casa rural and I could have stayed along the route each day without any additional travel. I only wish I had known that at the time, but the guidebook does not mention half these albergues. Some may of course be new and I guess some are private, and the guidebook is no doubt getting a bit old and out of date now - yet when I researched to see if there is a new one available (as it was still 2 years since my last Camino when I last walked and 6.5 since I walked my first section) there had been no updates. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT7zYXfgJKkNzGEO68vf7T833afwZJf0cOIjqLzjXGcmjlLjMT5n7OULLyVgexNrujc5PBqe_nmQzXRdicBlJvejYHsCUvn202VKRUsb5oRMd7GI4iqUxigQQYgJfmeCRowWF3aWFEE16f/s1600/IMG_4125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT7zYXfgJKkNzGEO68vf7T833afwZJf0cOIjqLzjXGcmjlLjMT5n7OULLyVgexNrujc5PBqe_nmQzXRdicBlJvejYHsCUvn202VKRUsb5oRMd7GI4iqUxigQQYgJfmeCRowWF3aWFEE16f/s400/IMG_4125.JPG" width="300" /></a><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip0BnlJ3AEIYHsCunFgVPaHWQvR6NA5hvK5_369RO19TAQBbUU1evIRhEPMp_U_mzcPS4qVWkEb5QW39MhyQCK62Bi4Q6qrs7t0fArCueDF8-R4wOuneUhvVVcliw2jsyP5p593yOnZANy/s1600/IMG_4130.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip0BnlJ3AEIYHsCunFgVPaHWQvR6NA5hvK5_369RO19TAQBbUU1evIRhEPMp_U_mzcPS4qVWkEb5QW39MhyQCK62Bi4Q6qrs7t0fArCueDF8-R4wOuneUhvVVcliw2jsyP5p593yOnZANy/s320/IMG_4130.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tree stump shrines</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1jeiPZPKsi2xqIKuNFgFzuKwwevuyEQ79GAZ-LnK2j5e0gm0kZ9M7g6Dr_Vniwti2-jWLdo5jMuPnWglz68ebsx-c5oFeLVJG8sww70op84o0WfDMXxsb6n83qDfOU-EinNw_iXcMeWZq/s1600/IMG_4129.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1jeiPZPKsi2xqIKuNFgFzuKwwevuyEQ79GAZ-LnK2j5e0gm0kZ9M7g6Dr_Vniwti2-jWLdo5jMuPnWglz68ebsx-c5oFeLVJG8sww70op84o0WfDMXxsb6n83qDfOU-EinNw_iXcMeWZq/s200/IMG_4129.JPG" width="150" /></a><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrm68HisGLXT-8dQcKana4RuHq4JBHHP8-2KUaV2invLsfXckECjSXs8I6IAyhX0i1WxMjGDrCMjd4R2l9Tam7GReYOKgbHanE4oyAfDlC3zjEZTiH_dg_hjfbqGGBqofhkeTPwoaSfzUd/s1600/IMG_4118.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrm68HisGLXT-8dQcKana4RuHq4JBHHP8-2KUaV2invLsfXckECjSXs8I6IAyhX0i1WxMjGDrCMjd4R2l9Tam7GReYOKgbHanE4oyAfDlC3zjEZTiH_dg_hjfbqGGBqofhkeTPwoaSfzUd/s320/IMG_4118.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What is it with these curly arrows? I have no idea but<br />I do like them.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It was getting hot again and I was grateful that the last several km into Silleda were in the cool of the woodland. I could take it steady as we were already booked into the albergue (Hostal-albergue Touristica) and it wasn't late. It was uphill but I was in no rush and again it was more like a stroll on the final leg, still on the medieval paved road. On entering the town a painfully thin mastin barked half heartedly at me and his female (recently bereft of her puppies) trotted to me wagging. So sad, although they have a job - living in the field with goats and a horse - this doesn't replace the social interaction with humans that dogs crave and need. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw9kOz5YfBr_M4kTZ6B8nux-NY7n0MZ1jTY5l8zKIeROodcJtGQWH-e_fl1tbZcsTYlPoxzUfk44YpF30Aogo_qSgZ-5Cl3yOgiNbS5XCw4BLJxQV-IEAKmCIDh8yDtiIdk6zNrSU7cF0r/s1600/IMG_4135.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw9kOz5YfBr_M4kTZ6B8nux-NY7n0MZ1jTY5l8zKIeROodcJtGQWH-e_fl1tbZcsTYlPoxzUfk44YpF30Aogo_qSgZ-5Cl3yOgiNbS5XCw4BLJxQV-IEAKmCIDh8yDtiIdk6zNrSU7cF0r/s200/IMG_4135.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our room - "busy" Silleda<br />street at siesta! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TBRVd8hAiVW89dHUvDI4mBQt4rvKhv2a3jQGgE6qpBJ7s8nrdZTDQ7ZfSFSKMvfW8bn7l0kU2V4SfFqQiPs3n-3UhMhh4Ert8D8YCwd3XlggUpABLvxHmm6QOC2nrD-VM4eHZHck6LZv/s1600/IMG_4132.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1TBRVd8hAiVW89dHUvDI4mBQt4rvKhv2a3jQGgE6qpBJ7s8nrdZTDQ7ZfSFSKMvfW8bn7l0kU2V4SfFqQiPs3n-3UhMhh4Ert8D8YCwd3XlggUpABLvxHmm6QOC2nrD-VM4eHZHck6LZv/s320/IMG_4132.JPG" width="320" /></a>Michael met me and had found a lovely organic coffee bar on the way to the albergue. He had also tracked down a rate postcard for my friend Paula. Wow, who would have thought buying postcards would be such a challenge these days - I guess it shows how things have gone since the arrival of FB and email! We popped in for coffee and a beer and also got provided with lovely tapas AND a taster of cake! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-JcTB55dt-SiQrk3M3zaorndMLLhhEacppGnDBAdTLqw9DmUztH8kfyXWRgj0NKYSkIF6Fpe9mYhuAvO1te6YbYnqQitH0vkh1oodylHHJ75Hj9YvH9IPzJpX6qxTBvX6zgaBBPnPLB0b/s1600/IMG_4141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-JcTB55dt-SiQrk3M3zaorndMLLhhEacppGnDBAdTLqw9DmUztH8kfyXWRgj0NKYSkIF6Fpe9mYhuAvO1te6YbYnqQitH0vkh1oodylHHJ75Hj9YvH9IPzJpX6qxTBvX6zgaBBPnPLB0b/s320/IMG_4141.JPG" width="320" /></a>The albergue was cute - small double room in a sort of converted old town house with a balcony and bathroom which was clean, but there was no gas with high to cook in the cocina! Good job we weren't self catering. It also had clean towels, bath mat and hot shower, but there were a few other things lacking, like finding the bin for toilet paper was full to overflowing! Not pleasant. <br />
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M had found a couple of nice restaurantes and then discovered they weren't open or weren't doing what we wanted. We faffed and debated - having planned on doing a take away and to eat on our balcony - but in the end decided to head back yet again to the Casas Novas as the food had been so delicious every day. It was again - wow, langoustinas, pulpo fiera (paprika sizzling octopus) and patatas fritas with a divine ensalada verte with delicious but simple olive oil and vinegar dressing. Yum! <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl-H-XXpSi7CBPhqQmlXrazVAEbTX5BeTMw5CoYlIOIDh8i1QrZunVtXIkLQTFiEtj7JftTfzifOJnGSy0YoYAZxNKiRRMLcG4HSh__0cnlRkjyxStRuAiSaUrUBDAFOWpIP7WTl16NzqU/s1600/DSCF1288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl-H-XXpSi7CBPhqQmlXrazVAEbTX5BeTMw5CoYlIOIDh8i1QrZunVtXIkLQTFiEtj7JftTfzifOJnGSy0YoYAZxNKiRRMLcG4HSh__0cnlRkjyxStRuAiSaUrUBDAFOWpIP7WTl16NzqU/s400/DSCF1288.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Hostal Casasnovas - give them a call... you won't regret it! <br />
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<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-71709462717716326312020-04-02T03:17:00.002-07:002020-04-02T03:31:29.394-07:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGejbe2UlKp657VdNwFHXD5ow0iiegNQotRQydlvVp9B7lS9YuysLdIy8cEWc3ErPfxvFRJGDllxSjIoijzV6Sh44IiWQ26Bkk0Q2I9xdvfM7ORj_3YnKPV181QzYR0b_gWALCfHoH0AA2/s1600/DSCF1270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGejbe2UlKp657VdNwFHXD5ow0iiegNQotRQydlvVp9B7lS9YuysLdIy8cEWc3ErPfxvFRJGDllxSjIoijzV6Sh44IiWQ26Bkk0Q2I9xdvfM7ORj_3YnKPV181QzYR0b_gWALCfHoH0AA2/s200/DSCF1270.JPG" width="200" /></a><b>El Camino (Levante) Castro Dozón to just above Botos (just over 13.8km) - Tuesday 1st October and Day Off - Wednesday 2nd October, 2019. </b><br />
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Our friends had taken up the massage offer and as I was up and ready to leave early, I didn't get the chance to wish them a buen camino and I didn't see them again. I got up, dressed in the quiet, crept upstairs for my shoes having left everything ready by the back door, and was back on the Camino by 07.30 - the sooner out, the sooner I can be relaxing for a day and a half off!<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg184L2K3ghJfThiOSvI4fnrWHzbkB5i5-G3pmJqkLp6qME9lxOFuXZPqHv8_wtQZ36UC2yF04Ec5A-z1xgdpVg0U0fTBvi-SU89meR2aBciufNajO7W68mdXWKVI2t5URhfueICwDBJ1JZ/s1600/IMG_4028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg184L2K3ghJfThiOSvI4fnrWHzbkB5i5-G3pmJqkLp6qME9lxOFuXZPqHv8_wtQZ36UC2yF04Ec5A-z1xgdpVg0U0fTBvi-SU89meR2aBciufNajO7W68mdXWKVI2t5URhfueICwDBJ1JZ/s200/IMG_4028.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Little chapel on the N525 - can<br />
imagine it on a quieter road<br />
in days gone past</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDKHz75QHdQUA8RpTHfqkTOsvAPydIxR3pyuwv_1ibVTsdWVetlPXl8E_Gw8PEq96O0uEtpIgNYRnoMHgOJnamEltB2tf17UH3xjCtUVhi6tPLw1GljqoVkBMEUC7cfid4pIJ_tJQQlyZJ/s1600/IMG_4029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDKHz75QHdQUA8RpTHfqkTOsvAPydIxR3pyuwv_1ibVTsdWVetlPXl8E_Gw8PEq96O0uEtpIgNYRnoMHgOJnamEltB2tf17UH3xjCtUVhi6tPLw1GljqoVkBMEUC7cfid4pIJ_tJQQlyZJ/s320/IMG_4029.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cross outside the chapel </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It was very hard to see the at that time of the morning, but as the eyes became accustomed they glowed out of the dark! The industrial estate was a bit sad - one factory, polystyrene, closed and the only building on the site! Even without the recession, polystyrene was never going to last. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJIFEDEmKBWEM3__MPxNAHKvyj4YOTwGgo_x0rIXR_RYoq-hhkx2PpSI1iGmj3LKt01p7UygnQGfuuDwN6qEcQHqamRWMyU10l6ANZhjjsljMNJi_5LUSIqfyzpv0RXY6ZTKdgZyDbLaGN/s1600/IMG_4030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJIFEDEmKBWEM3__MPxNAHKvyj4YOTwGgo_x0rIXR_RYoq-hhkx2PpSI1iGmj3LKt01p7UygnQGfuuDwN6qEcQHqamRWMyU10l6ANZhjjsljMNJi_5LUSIqfyzpv0RXY6ZTKdgZyDbLaGN/s200/IMG_4030.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Funny, even the bus stops here are<br />
shaped like Hórreos! N525 on the<br />
way to Puxalas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There was quite a lot of easy walking on the road although hard on the feet, following the N525 until it finally turned off left toward Puxalas. It was well marked all the way and I walked right past the "smelly cafe" that we had passed on our food search the night before. Why smelly? Because there was a "seriously' bad aroma of sewage in this area that wafts with the wind over this particular ridge. We could not see the culprit, so I can only imagine that the topography of the area catches, intensifies and then redistributes the awful pong right in this spot! It happens to be strongest right around where the cafe is situated, so maybe this is a reason for the bar owner's surliness?! He had been very abrupt and rude - so we would not have patronised here anyway, yet it is so convenient for a brief stop on the way and right on the Camino. Rudeness is unusual in Spain, or so I have found, but there seemed to be an abundance of it in this little area. It was certainly rife on our restaurant hunt the previous evening! <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNidPJDUwRFER1JWlLDMTViqfzQYpPV7UXVWC2eXwIOvKNAlceWqgYhnU2hf6r71kkIPzu91srhTsIFM65wLW3JDfcVWteybTh2P68ybpwjDRGlTlG1UfAKszBgiOA_DS0WMDG4O1N2_rg/s1600/IMG_4032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNidPJDUwRFER1JWlLDMTViqfzQYpPV7UXVWC2eXwIOvKNAlceWqgYhnU2hf6r71kkIPzu91srhTsIFM65wLW3JDfcVWteybTh2P68ybpwjDRGlTlG1UfAKszBgiOA_DS0WMDG4O1N2_rg/s400/IMG_4032.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sound of Music moment - and strangely red knees and white shins??</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After heading off the N525 I climbed on lovely wide sandy tracks toward Puxalas. This was a lovely walk and I could not believe it when I saw the car parked on the summit of the hillside ahead. I couldn't believe that I had got to this point so quickly and it was such a lovely surprise to see the little Fiat that M had managed to guide up the dirt road. The storms, as forecast, held off but the skies were moody and dramatic - as in the photo here.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6wjIv-QFAjG8u0AUGDvkbCzF8RrIN38x3A9KJYh82b7aMh1d6sxJvLXIg5rGYk84MgUoN8P56BIVeSIxKP8iLnXwyyb1EPUFJLSTkkauDv0NBnqJ9xRdu12MljXHHwR84HZTLZfgBBwTD/s1600/IMG_4033.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6wjIv-QFAjG8u0AUGDvkbCzF8RrIN38x3A9KJYh82b7aMh1d6sxJvLXIg5rGYk84MgUoN8P56BIVeSIxKP8iLnXwyyb1EPUFJLSTkkauDv0NBnqJ9xRdu12MljXHHwR84HZTLZfgBBwTD/s200/IMG_4033.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St James garden<br />
ornament</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuFTWHis-nLpSjAlhm6_I4aiixo9n2tTufzuVLSF8BQ5ZC7f8PEvLP2960XBpHwENUZ8SPgmlzNThX8bIuLMwilYJVF3XvFrom4LnWA97s4fIxLNYi5JMKK2nRlOL9RjXdE3RTA_ugsZ5S/s1600/IMG_4034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuFTWHis-nLpSjAlhm6_I4aiixo9n2tTufzuVLSF8BQ5ZC7f8PEvLP2960XBpHwENUZ8SPgmlzNThX8bIuLMwilYJVF3XvFrom4LnWA97s4fIxLNYi5JMKK2nRlOL9RjXdE3RTA_ugsZ5S/s200/IMG_4034.JPG" width="150" /></a><br />
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For some reason, I hd red knees, white shins and with my purple/pink socks they looked like old lady legs in compression stockings! At least it was warm enough for shorts. After the delicious cafe con leche I headed off again into the village and today's walk brought many wayside crosses and many statues of Santiago, including a huge one inside someone's gate. It was a huge garden ornament! People were walking, with "pet" dogs (not so usual in Spain) and many called out happy "hola"s and "buen camino"s. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgID2Cxz83GjaIb0tkx28mIs-OBxTQ3HPTtzPH-BPXVVpGU_00minLAL2xHdaxjMXZ4nPF_d1yzvp6GmOiJ4jQ4cD1a59EzLZwPVROXBgb6vQcJwJV0zPqJbcBzrH4WMWRJCcZInr1RkrDV/s1600/DSCF1271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgID2Cxz83GjaIb0tkx28mIs-OBxTQ3HPTtzPH-BPXVVpGU_00minLAL2xHdaxjMXZ4nPF_d1yzvp6GmOiJ4jQ4cD1a59EzLZwPVROXBgb6vQcJwJV0zPqJbcBzrH4WMWRJCcZInr1RkrDV/s200/DSCF1271.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There are often these little crosses<br />
attached to fences. On the Frances<br />
there is one with a whole line of them.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRjDGB-QKQbbJpwHDlGJUWwSN5_qqiGRFdoEep1czE9NWEjKY8icQ2pFNEse7zQ4EkNqwCVRLz1F65ZQ1nhCx-M4wWfe894DxCfGDY4wCnympsbAcRIB0gg7Xn5KZviMs5inNYehFmsiLD/s1600/IMG_4036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRjDGB-QKQbbJpwHDlGJUWwSN5_qqiGRFdoEep1czE9NWEjKY8icQ2pFNEse7zQ4EkNqwCVRLz1F65ZQ1nhCx-M4wWfe894DxCfGDY4wCnympsbAcRIB0gg7Xn5KZviMs5inNYehFmsiLD/s200/IMG_4036.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way out of Puxalas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After the village, I headed past me and I was astonished later when we met to hear how he had driven the same route that I had walked, which was pretty much "off roading"! I passed through a beautifully wooded area toward the large motorway, where the Middle Ages briefly meets the 21st Century way to Santiago before being plunged back into history with the way lined with old houses and medieval bridges. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1jGirCo4hcgPpnr5DGFQoUhGKWCWVMhE5yrICGp8Nr6_3TRw1txSj6ZI7yxvxWaiN5IuB1CkW3bzogioXygLdd31OS-PfueqXvtK95h67AhxkjdCfXOGIgVHD4NZUJaHLgK1Y1WrP4sEB/s1600/IMG_4039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1jGirCo4hcgPpnr5DGFQoUhGKWCWVMhE5yrICGp8Nr6_3TRw1txSj6ZI7yxvxWaiN5IuB1CkW3bzogioXygLdd31OS-PfueqXvtK95h67AhxkjdCfXOGIgVHD4NZUJaHLgK1Y1WrP4sEB/s320/IMG_4039.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The track that Michael also drove - on the way to the<br />
motorway crossing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At the point where I took the photograph of the cross in the fence a forest official stopped to check I was OK because I had stopped. I love how people look out for each other here and have such a community feel. There er downsides too, especially where political allegiances come into play, but on the whole and in general life, there is a great spirit of support here. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMwxnCsgU4yT61YfZlzGPJi9aEkfTDc-RUyS4LMq2QTvJP6NvLcf9HYjrXbUTM5PsxmopPLiMZ99kxTaGuYzKO9xXrhmKK14p4mgCs6bSedR_DgzARV_9s5Hmk7VndcqUzSPSHX_i3yxgc/s1600/IMG_4043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMwxnCsgU4yT61YfZlzGPJi9aEkfTDc-RUyS4LMq2QTvJP6NvLcf9HYjrXbUTM5PsxmopPLiMZ99kxTaGuYzKO9xXrhmKK14p4mgCs6bSedR_DgzARV_9s5Hmk7VndcqUzSPSHX_i3yxgc/s200/IMG_4043.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road leading down to the<br />
medieval bridge. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH43oy554mcIeNoolqDf2lenQ7HTKrB6IMtTUv4E_KxmKiddSwStAQZRl9AXvteXN1lwju5GW0AE814UDq5Os3NH0JTEG8yPMNasY-zjOnZToxmGsXB9sQUSn3kma4xEf1Fc2hj2mN3YuN/s1600/DSCF1275.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH43oy554mcIeNoolqDf2lenQ7HTKrB6IMtTUv4E_KxmKiddSwStAQZRl9AXvteXN1lwju5GW0AE814UDq5Os3NH0JTEG8yPMNasY-zjOnZToxmGsXB9sQUSn3kma4xEf1Fc2hj2mN3YuN/s200/DSCF1275.JPG" width="200" /></a>One was a beautiful example of a medieval bridge with the arches still visible but now tarred over the top and next to it the most stunning "Zen" like river and pool, peacefully trickling and above it, the tunnel of the old railway leading onto an old railway bridge - I could have stayed here for hours. Very meditative. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE0Av5ri1YmlnLQSXKfQb18nRjwD8fYU93dTuzEp1tL2wxdWccXBfVjIOfpTmIneNZpRYmBvvTOmhZNPVt5-9jXj-o5le2KlHunf6-D4T5Tpc7dUi06YO1OzA6n4gpmkg7S8JkqpWsIvOG/s1600/IMG_4048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE0Av5ri1YmlnLQSXKfQb18nRjwD8fYU93dTuzEp1tL2wxdWccXBfVjIOfpTmIneNZpRYmBvvTOmhZNPVt5-9jXj-o5le2KlHunf6-D4T5Tpc7dUi06YO1OzA6n4gpmkg7S8JkqpWsIvOG/s640/IMG_4048.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beautiful Zen like stream and pool</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ_QAYQ8tiWDK700_sssTRR4XT8mLkaLwYJIOPGQ3wmTKJU8qnPn9dwob6B_0Pq7La1qVx7w1N9O-toqNwUtVn4OQrwgAYVY1uBRoym4oTA0UYc1a9iAG85TH7yUEqS3owYJyfaPBkURqB/s1600/IMG_4050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ_QAYQ8tiWDK700_sssTRR4XT8mLkaLwYJIOPGQ3wmTKJU8qnPn9dwob6B_0Pq7La1qVx7w1N9O-toqNwUtVn4OQrwgAYVY1uBRoym4oTA0UYc1a9iAG85TH7yUEqS3owYJyfaPBkURqB/s320/IMG_4050.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Medieval road up from the Zen pool</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From here, one climbs again, along another medieval track with huge paving slabs which need to be appreciated because after this time of peace and tranquility, one is "thrust" into the outskirts of Lalín and back to the world of modern railway tracks, town infrastructure and uglier buildings. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8uJpOCeIVCUE1LeM91gWuqq-bD2u28mO0Uun8Ud0t_0G6E9ZuXmJ9Oaoorvm6bxsZZ3AdzKSkjJTW1dkM1Jcvh_jv0upQmU-NZmeAz6mUfxnx7xAU4IFfwvyylqOgipdcLq60WFEOEnsQ/s1600/IMG_4051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8uJpOCeIVCUE1LeM91gWuqq-bD2u28mO0Uun8Ud0t_0G6E9ZuXmJ9Oaoorvm6bxsZZ3AdzKSkjJTW1dkM1Jcvh_jv0upQmU-NZmeAz6mUfxnx7xAU4IFfwvyylqOgipdcLq60WFEOEnsQ/s320/IMG_4051.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ5LE-N2-33C_YLnhmF41PCLirMhvDNp0ba0MqwxA3e8yuBivw-Rh4fC7CGha4PZl9fSTgqtKLLZRHJGe4DxSow06stbqX9YVarg7L8wxE3WtsdWe3I0dgZ3n59DOe-1UeSt3qxWsR2QHb/s1600/IMG_4056.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ5LE-N2-33C_YLnhmF41PCLirMhvDNp0ba0MqwxA3e8yuBivw-Rh4fC7CGha4PZl9fSTgqtKLLZRHJGe4DxSow06stbqX9YVarg7L8wxE3WtsdWe3I0dgZ3n59DOe-1UeSt3qxWsR2QHb/s320/IMG_4056.JPG" width="320" /></a>As I headed down a tarred road toward Lalín I was passed by an Italian couple - joyful and loud, shouting their conversation between each other and calling Ciao Bella and Buen Camino to me! Shortly after this I passed them as they were sorting out a puncture (impressively and expertly fast) and I called to them "lo siento". They were still cheerful and later they sailed past me again just before I turned onto the main road into Lalín with yet more of their Italian Camino group who were cycling together from, I guess, a club - as they all wore the same Camino shirts. There were more shouts of Buen Camino and Ciao Bella. They lady slowed to ask me if I was walking alone and was quite amazed. An old gentleman too expressed astonishment after he had asked me if I walked alone to Santiago, yet surely as a local he must see many pilgrims walking this way. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_R3t2DQVPhkQ-dpj4YI4056_VumdEdRJJ5ajDnuwCNPQg9Yrjs3y2QJkE3ByQNJPc8jSv-B4MzX-NgSXKSf8Sr15Ao58QfUqcfQKBPG9jARDeUCGXvovJjS17savUQPm_x_83uUA9OdZG/s1600/IMG_4052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_R3t2DQVPhkQ-dpj4YI4056_VumdEdRJJ5ajDnuwCNPQg9Yrjs3y2QJkE3ByQNJPc8jSv-B4MzX-NgSXKSf8Sr15Ao58QfUqcfQKBPG9jARDeUCGXvovJjS17savUQPm_x_83uUA9OdZG/s320/IMG_4052.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pilgrim drinking fountain and welcome at Botos - the steps<br />lead up to the abandoned plaza mayor and ayuntamiento</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjowqOc2F1GfuKh7S6Qm4mIV8kAKAe75BZD-Fe4kQohwbriYOymhoJIzsru68wveZ3zevNu0sbXqtXpzUaeFEkv-uIbMeDjQpgL4YrorHRAyLzpu-S3r3WmA8ULtqsdbYwivlKf49msb9Fl/s1600/IMG_4058.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjowqOc2F1GfuKh7S6Qm4mIV8kAKAe75BZD-Fe4kQohwbriYOymhoJIzsru68wveZ3zevNu0sbXqtXpzUaeFEkv-uIbMeDjQpgL4YrorHRAyLzpu-S3r3WmA8ULtqsdbYwivlKf49msb9Fl/s200/IMG_4058.JPG" width="150" /></a>I was starting to feel it now. The effects of lots of tar road and steep hills and as I came out of Lalín there was yet another steep ascent into Botos. It was warming up and humid - threatening storms later and it was a long trudge. The signs here are now for the Vía de la Plata - in Galician Prata - as more and more Caminos mingle together. The signs are old and worn but indicate the way clearly enough. I could hardly put one foot in front of the other and I was spurred on by the fact that tomorrow would be a day off. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-9pW0JBB1RkJxKqXriMyPeHMp1lUQNLj75exOiQeU8ndQrXqYqew_8gJJ-PHghGx-2QYSiJ8ZSL8_hJVfyeMtQdz06OvHB9ufi-GVIoHXgVmfGbOnoOOJ03rChjNqiPeIqX4PV8sGJGzn/s1600/IMG_4059.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-9pW0JBB1RkJxKqXriMyPeHMp1lUQNLj75exOiQeU8ndQrXqYqew_8gJJ-PHghGx-2QYSiJ8ZSL8_hJVfyeMtQdz06OvHB9ufi-GVIoHXgVmfGbOnoOOJ03rChjNqiPeIqX4PV8sGJGzn/s400/IMG_4059.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrival in Botos</td></tr>
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As I arrived at the meeting point and my stopping point for the day, a lovely old wayside cross in what is yet another mostly abandoned village and closed ayuntamiento, I could see that it was at the bottom of another hill. I was tired, but I wanted to get it out of the way so that I could start at the top next time. A drink. A bite of my bocadillo and I headed off again - the sun out and very hot, challenging me up this last push of the day. I passed a chap in his huge field of a garden and his yellow lab was playing and friendly along the fence which rallied me a little. The chap was a bit surprised as I passed and greeted him - again, it seemed strange as pilgrims must pass by. Anyway, I was VERY glad to finish at the top of this hill and looking forward rd to a cold beer and bite to eat. <br />
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We headed in to Silleda where we would be staying for a couple of nights. A lovely double room, lovely bathroom - with bath for soaking tired muscles - and a balcony all of its own! Wow, this was amazing and we planned to have a meal and some wine outside if the weather held. It actually got a bit chilly in the evening but we did manage to have wine and read books while the washing dried on the balcony wall. At one point, my favourite walking shirt blowing into the road below! M came to the rescue and dashed off and around the building, scrambling through some bushes to find the shirt - which I kept an eye on from above in case anyone else should come along and find it, although I think that side of the building is rarely visited. <br />
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On the way into the town we had found the most fabulous little bar - as often is the case in Spain, it looked nothing from the outside and inside was more grocery than bar. However, the owner was friendly and the food amazing! We got a sample of the Lentejas and noticed the kitchen awards for each year 2017, 18 and 19! Sadly, lunch is only 13.00 to 14.00 so we had missed it, but could totally see why it was a winner. When M knocked over his beer, the owner thought he had knocked over my wine and was about to bring me another - very generous.<br />
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<b><u>Wednesday 3rd October - Day Off!</u></b><br />
<b><u><br /></u></b>
Relaxing, washing clothes, reading, writing my diary - chilling ready for the next leg of the journey. Credential stamped twice to show I had been staying here and it was part of the continuous journey and enjoying the particularly delicious Octopus (pulpo) dishes here - wow, just heaven on a plate. I would totally book to stay at the Apartamentos Casas Novas again. Great staff, great food, good rooms, great location and pilgrim rates from €35.00 - but for this you get an <b><i>apartment, not just a room </i></b>so if you are looking for a couple of nights and are taking a mid Camino break on this final leg, it is perfect. <br />
<br />
https://www.booking.com/hotel/es/apartamentos-casas-novas.en-gb.html<br />
https://casasnovashosteleria.com<br />
<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-1486636214644304972020-04-01T10:20:00.001-07:002020-04-01T14:46:54.574-07:00<b>El Camino (Levante) Oseira (Outside the monastery door) to Castro Dozón (11.2 km) - Monday 30th September, 2019. </b><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTnhATNusv1qqdQHjzpJdxoaKmz4RlomK44fA3jsSl2Cl-XVznNRFD-Sy4k4Kxnl-vFmv2eGK5CqdC102okNuL1-elN95nbBnZPuUEdN5cOshLoAWdf-Mwv8WKD-PeOI9IbrRDinUvJXBA/s1600/IMG_3998.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTnhATNusv1qqdQHjzpJdxoaKmz4RlomK44fA3jsSl2Cl-XVznNRFD-Sy4k4Kxnl-vFmv2eGK5CqdC102okNuL1-elN95nbBnZPuUEdN5cOshLoAWdf-Mwv8WKD-PeOI9IbrRDinUvJXBA/s320/IMG_3998.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Setting off in the dark - from just outside the monastery<br />
gates</td></tr>
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I can't believe it but I am now already 1/3 of the way on the last part of my Camino! Tomorrow is 13.8 to Botos and then a day off! We have our accommodation booked at Casas Novas in Silleda and where I will stay two nights and M will stay for 3 nights, but first I will stay at the albergue in Castro Dozón again with Raphael and Ana. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgue66lqi828ApXYS0nd0knG2UqXCOFU5IV8dliBVLp4rc-3wujqI2gnizJ6GnRHIPN2aYre54oUHhCBidiJzaeEyxXo5m9PBQEWvaOXWv3QK6UXWxZKxWlnK3c_2vTTPwN0-ELn_6HkUCt/s1600/IMG_3997.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgue66lqi828ApXYS0nd0knG2UqXCOFU5IV8dliBVLp4rc-3wujqI2gnizJ6GnRHIPN2aYre54oUHhCBidiJzaeEyxXo5m9PBQEWvaOXWv3QK6UXWxZKxWlnK3c_2vTTPwN0-ELn_6HkUCt/s200/IMG_3997.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trough outside the monastery</td></tr>
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I started off from the monastery door - dropping off my overnight things with M and grabbing a quick bite of breakfast with him - blueberries and yoghurt again and collecting my plum and tangerine. The cloud was low as I set off and very wet so I had donned my showerproof walking trousers but it was so hot walking up the steep incline from the monastery that I was wetter inside the trousers than out! <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3eBGJSXrCK6IUktmp-dIUqhE7ez_nU_f9Mhhyt7lOE0tWEwuZ0A-FnKCH2CJnE9k2PuHtVKCAsA8hTDhUMdak2sVJVMMBUFKGAn6tWgfTvC8FTqwJCnlEmqwbHFZZEg203bkTRBuO74a4/s1600/IMG_3999.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3eBGJSXrCK6IUktmp-dIUqhE7ez_nU_f9Mhhyt7lOE0tWEwuZ0A-FnKCH2CJnE9k2PuHtVKCAsA8hTDhUMdak2sVJVMMBUFKGAn6tWgfTvC8FTqwJCnlEmqwbHFZZEg203bkTRBuO74a4/s200/IMG_3999.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steep and uneven track</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdZksUXNdpKvbO_4JaPDZKgo1ubQaax2qF3mqp3jm_maWoVDmre5Xlk0RWwfT7fRAv7Pc0kKrNdyu8x6mubqsD-AIQ53c2-WheAF6WHYzVj9XKXoz8OmyoeaaWHtwGz9wM1sNnBzMxYkzd/s1600/IMG_4001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdZksUXNdpKvbO_4JaPDZKgo1ubQaax2qF3mqp3jm_maWoVDmre5Xlk0RWwfT7fRAv7Pc0kKrNdyu8x6mubqsD-AIQ53c2-WheAF6WHYzVj9XKXoz8OmyoeaaWHtwGz9wM1sNnBzMxYkzd/s320/IMG_4001.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rather a rocky road! Arrow appearing out of the gloom</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At the top of first incline I could not see an arrow and searched around with my torch - but it didn't make sense to go down into the village again, so I continued up the hill to my right along the road, and there I stripped off my coat and tied it around my waist. I could see pilgrims ahead of me, appearing on the road from a track coming up from Oseira and through scrub, but I had no idea where that might have been from as I had followed the arrows from outside the monastery and which were very obvious. They crossed the road ahead and headed up through more scrubland which for me meant turning left off the road, and scrambling steeply up more old and very uneven ancient pathway. It was very steep and just continued up and up, winding and zigaging into the mist. Arrows occasionally appeared out of the gloom and there was heavy silence all around. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW0b3G_rywonZewkQuyd0lcbFbVXMO4Xxlp5TsjBZ7Iu3DVTOAcF77cJhxpZbVicoaYndS3qE5xMDE2G_xIIAJ5oN6kAaGPjpZacLAj-GIs9tx5GkgWEUldi09QZXxfH7_770qmplo45Fz/s1600/IMG_4004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW0b3G_rywonZewkQuyd0lcbFbVXMO4Xxlp5TsjBZ7Iu3DVTOAcF77cJhxpZbVicoaYndS3qE5xMDE2G_xIIAJ5oN6kAaGPjpZacLAj-GIs9tx5GkgWEUldi09QZXxfH7_770qmplo45Fz/s320/IMG_4004.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of my favourite markers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I still couldn't work out how the pilgrims were ahead of me... I was first up at 06.30 although I had been awake at 06.05 and on the road by 07.50 while everyone was having breakfast. I could see the road ahead and no one seemed to head out before me. Strange?? I was hungry and soon devoured my plum and tangerine and I was looking forward to my cafe con leech with M at Carballedina. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpduDDSJ4W0i6ubskbtLlizkGJD1Fb0b6u0wrp4lIsxwQFzvBWUApSG4Ky7tq7l_n8HTV7buZxPye84f2I9RGl3iOG8iFedEV-Hw-MXoaHmJmw0PziOzSmjZqDoB7KVuHs68C9yVbhoQHq/s1600/IMG_4007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpduDDSJ4W0i6ubskbtLlizkGJD1Fb0b6u0wrp4lIsxwQFzvBWUApSG4Ky7tq7l_n8HTV7buZxPye84f2I9RGl3iOG8iFedEV-Hw-MXoaHmJmw0PziOzSmjZqDoB7KVuHs68C9yVbhoQHq/s200/IMG_4007.JPG" width="200" /></a>I had put on my walking shoes but it was very wet and although my feet felt great, I decided I needed more waterproofing so changed into my dry boots and which I had brought for weather such as this. It was a mistake. Although my foot had recovered somewhat, the slight downhill concertina'd my toe into the front of the boot. It held up and seemed to grow more comfortable again... so I decided to stick with it. However, the bigger mistake was that I had slept in my socks because of the cold and now my slightly sweaty and damp feet were rubbing. Add some sand down the boot flicked up from the gritty track and I not only had a blister, but it had rubbed clean off. Such a shame, as over 1145km so far, I had only had one other blister! I continued but was to pay for it later.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6e_oNSZx91Y-2a5YpJbmvVM7qjZKYCoCnllOoHBiMkCIXpyTJ3XiiuZnP-M_qMX7bPBWdCvmUGQOlZGLqR77k4Ya30_ZWobIYK5RX-WsxlDQrgjK3s7J619xCOlrvoULHOpYfNpjLSCTn/s1600/IMG_4005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6e_oNSZx91Y-2a5YpJbmvVM7qjZKYCoCnllOoHBiMkCIXpyTJ3XiiuZnP-M_qMX7bPBWdCvmUGQOlZGLqR77k4Ya30_ZWobIYK5RX-WsxlDQrgjK3s7J619xCOlrvoULHOpYfNpjLSCTn/s320/IMG_4005.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keep eyes peeled for this arrow - it is very easily missed!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The early part of the walk was remote and beautiful. I didn't see another pilgrim until Castro Dozón and fully expected to be the first to arrive in the town. However, what was strange was that although I left first and no one passed me, our couple from last night still arrived before me...?? Hmmm? I thought maybe they had again taken the road, but later Ana said she had had a fall on the uneven and steep, slippery rocks - so they must have come the way I did, or at least partly! M suggested a taxi... but then remembered that they weren't French... haha, we had a good laugh remembering out last Camino! <br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Z5eQCLfpD0McHDMUGCnuad_MLhoDDEvGAQPSDvYYLfAdugHnFimIwDlqBmWi8e7ZwMody6rx5-W8J4c-pmdEYxdlUrVTH0Vk4H-LGIh7YpQV0MyX-T1luP3Am0g2NuwJ3FIq0XpS5XGU/s1600/IMG_4019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="901" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Z5eQCLfpD0McHDMUGCnuad_MLhoDDEvGAQPSDvYYLfAdugHnFimIwDlqBmWi8e7ZwMody6rx5-W8J4c-pmdEYxdlUrVTH0Vk4H-LGIh7YpQV0MyX-T1luP3Am0g2NuwJ3FIq0XpS5XGU/s320/IMG_4019.JPG" width="180" /></a>One part of the trail as you turn left off a short stretch of road that links the scrubland path has a very hidden arrow. The guidebook mentions to watch for a faint "flecha" as it is hard to see - and it sure is! The photo is above and I took care to look around for it as there appear to be paths heading off in many directions which could easily tempt an unsuspecting peregrino! <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsSQ6wn4gwoxMTjDNe3H86aCQ04ij89itGBsw0gsiPxVPaq7Ukqc-t62uiM3A3WKhaOBPMJJUSDmU_CTfn3ISIjqz_gwbzAPoCpn9-79P8zV402mrpPR4NMrdzuKNLFYVZ_sGF0L03S24w/s1600/DSCF1269.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsSQ6wn4gwoxMTjDNe3H86aCQ04ij89itGBsw0gsiPxVPaq7Ukqc-t62uiM3A3WKhaOBPMJJUSDmU_CTfn3ISIjqz_gwbzAPoCpn9-79P8zV402mrpPR4NMrdzuKNLFYVZ_sGF0L03S24w/s200/DSCF1269.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No idea...! On a windowsill<br />
at Carballediña a one horse town<br />
after Vilarello</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As you turn off the road, basically continue downhill (quite steeply) at right angles to the road, the faint arrow will then be on a rock on your right a few metres from the road - as in the photo above. I was very glad for Google maps because by checking in on the village of Vilarello, which is where I was headed, I could see where it lay in respect to the road and the route one might expect. The other trail would follow the equestrian route which continues along the road and around a hairpin bend. The track down is VERY hazardous, rocky and slippery in the wet. This is where Ana fell and fortunately was not hurt. Getting hurt here would likely require airlifting you out. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDPICJIxYAfl-z7uYwCBsMY5FMolNo1Pcmf38AODa2HzBmu0iTKhAKvbKb5-PD_hs6t1_joF43Ic3hvaNTIZqz8gwJ4B9P0b0Oo0eZWGf0acfYr_KDYjQmbeE5BW1k37_3DkSUrD9brKGG/s1600/IMG_4009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDPICJIxYAfl-z7uYwCBsMY5FMolNo1Pcmf38AODa2HzBmu0iTKhAKvbKb5-PD_hs6t1_joF43Ic3hvaNTIZqz8gwJ4B9P0b0Oo0eZWGf0acfYr_KDYjQmbeE5BW1k37_3DkSUrD9brKGG/s200/IMG_4009.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the arrows carved into a bank <br />
of hardened mud</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhea7oNwr9Sk_N2gnDrZbXjuNaNnW68-l8gNGKi09JSxWRwitcR4sF3cxWxlTkQ0llSjmbjYXw4S8CljH_pcthY0iZBTTOVAUH-kkX2Oxuov6w7-6v4VRnBSxJfMmN7Tci5y3pxmX197kRo/s1600/IMG_4018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhea7oNwr9Sk_N2gnDrZbXjuNaNnW68-l8gNGKi09JSxWRwitcR4sF3cxWxlTkQ0llSjmbjYXw4S8CljH_pcthY0iZBTTOVAUH-kkX2Oxuov6w7-6v4VRnBSxJfMmN7Tci5y3pxmX197kRo/s320/IMG_4018.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marker that finally confirmed I was on<br />
the right track and that the lady with the<br />
dog had directed me correctly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The next challenge is after the bends before the N525 for Castro Dozón. Thinking about it now, I suspect this is where the others overtook me and continued on ahead. I just happened upon a lady who came out to yell at her dog which had rushed out at me barking and that I really did think might bite my ankles! She was very friendly and said I could choose either route but the track was slightly more circuitous - which is how and why I think the others not only passed me but went unnoticed. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL29oJr0JoZI1XLbJeQSckxDAVGHBOy3nZ-uq0bhqkx0HYi25y_MNTRbDU1wXoNpvCPuvcnHL4Zpkalz0epnHwcWyCWMaZStYedqJ5LoVetr0Q_C4WAjr8NvcDRRJTs_QkQQcYzh5utg6U/s1600/DSCF1226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL29oJr0JoZI1XLbJeQSckxDAVGHBOy3nZ-uq0bhqkx0HYi25y_MNTRbDU1wXoNpvCPuvcnHL4Zpkalz0epnHwcWyCWMaZStYedqJ5LoVetr0Q_C4WAjr8NvcDRRJTs_QkQQcYzh5utg6U/s200/DSCF1226.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2019 was an excellent year for chestnuts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I chose the circuitous route as it matched the guidebook and avoided more time on tar! The arrows did not appear for some time and I began to feel concerned that I had not gone the right way, but ultimately I did find signs and way markers and the track linked up with the old service road used when building the new road. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjisrROL50aUlqiw9pHIdsF6M9yNbXh8f93IXOVkDTw8b-01NdH6DI5N8hSf2P91GE-2RxV6oRpcvXlEpe-tV6fFZTTbfK0Op-mI64Vv8MlGyzoZnB2nX82WeO3zl_LHMgOkxpTWyzR0cDH/s1600/DSCF1242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjisrROL50aUlqiw9pHIdsF6M9yNbXh8f93IXOVkDTw8b-01NdH6DI5N8hSf2P91GE-2RxV6oRpcvXlEpe-tV6fFZTTbfK0Op-mI64Vv8MlGyzoZnB2nX82WeO3zl_LHMgOkxpTWyzR0cDH/s320/DSCF1242.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
It was a bit overgrown and rather gritty (which is where I finally did for my blister) and it initially also serves the rider's route until they turn off and those continuing on foot will have to clamber under brambles! This was the last straw for me and my foot - I was really limping by now and was getting soaking wet in the steady rain which only served to rub my heel more as my sock got increasingly soggy. I HAD to change shoes.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx643zLLmnEXtVj1RrHbiWAbFhg0sQo4uROtJIfS5toEiwWJaSivZmD9duVkOg_oIq6DK3UhpI02nYvtQkCi1UCwq99nHCdRMMly_DpYXTDWGAwhsMrP2dxA7dJxZEW4m7IynntGaZk2a_/s1600/DSCF1228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx643zLLmnEXtVj1RrHbiWAbFhg0sQo4uROtJIfS5toEiwWJaSivZmD9duVkOg_oIq6DK3UhpI02nYvtQkCi1UCwq99nHCdRMMly_DpYXTDWGAwhsMrP2dxA7dJxZEW4m7IynntGaZk2a_/s320/DSCF1228.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots of these now on houses along the Camino - displayed<br />
by those who already walked too Santiago. I loved this<br />
shell tile and was determined to find one myself - I did,<br />
and it is now proudly displayed as part of my tile mosaic<br />
behind the AGA</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As a bit of an aside, I don't really understand why they dire vert horses from the track not the road... well, actually I do - because they think that they are safer on the road, and maybe they are with shoes, but actually there is a far greater risk of flipping on tar (to my mind) in shoes, well more so than in unshod feet. No wonder the signs keep saying to get off and lead - but I would rather take an unshod horse on the narrow, rocky tracks as they are nothing compared to the tracks and hills we rode in RSA. In fact, someone had taken their horse this way as fairly fresh manure had been deposited on the route. <br />
<br />
I have yet to actually meet a rider on the Camino. They must exist! In fact, I never did see a rider - maybe another time, on another Camino to come...? Riders have to register to enter the city at certain times, which is why I think you have to book with a guide to help you. I think I read that in order to allow access for horses they have to close off certain roads and only do this on certain days and certain times.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqenkUs7wXV3nahdXVtJ5VVzdxsS__qJTITDfXeBHyyGkkCrdInxjKRZMI2ZOEuvU6npjolOzcZCHDqJSibAWjq5OHdbUK0zmLYY3JuPW-KTWgj6sJHScTFExxXteXrJFY2iHvThOZ68yV/s1600/IMG_4026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqenkUs7wXV3nahdXVtJ5VVzdxsS__qJTITDfXeBHyyGkkCrdInxjKRZMI2ZOEuvU6npjolOzcZCHDqJSibAWjq5OHdbUK0zmLYY3JuPW-KTWgj6sJHScTFExxXteXrJFY2iHvThOZ68yV/s320/IMG_4026.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the garden area at the albergue - the sun came<br />
out and was beautifully warm as I wrote my notes from the<br />
day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Back in Castro Dozón I was very glad of the bar on the left as you enter the town. Michael had brought me my shoes as I sat on the wet ground by the main road in the pouring rain, trying to attach plasters to my heels and put on clean, dry socks. I am so grateful for my Duke of Edinburgh award days - we were always told to carry emergency socks (and other clothes) and now was the time to use them! As I sat drying off, resting aching bones and steaming, the beer was very welcome! After this the last push to the albergue and one of the 3 private rooms (only €10.00 for a single) was far easier! Our two Spanish friends had one of the other two private rooms - which are doubles. They provide pillowcases and sheets (pilgrim's provide their own sleeping bags). It was quiet and ultra clean - as are most accommodations in Spain. <br />
<br />
After a VERY welcome shower in a huge shower room that reminded me of post PE sessions at school, I headed outside to write my notes for the day and look out over the countryside in what had now turned into a gloriously sunny day. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio6uTcbEuJcYg3KZwxgjAozMuvMurD_mfl_YNaR07I5zMHCZPuSQU-onk5fQeeSKAscj_j8nr8IlDIawnKh6ipg7Vqr7-Ou00XHJs58xsW8p8dfZCFnxKiABdvMoq_1AQ4I8DVlFKN4zJ4/s1600/DSCF1221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio6uTcbEuJcYg3KZwxgjAozMuvMurD_mfl_YNaR07I5zMHCZPuSQU-onk5fQeeSKAscj_j8nr8IlDIawnKh6ipg7Vqr7-Ou00XHJs58xsW8p8dfZCFnxKiABdvMoq_1AQ4I8DVlFKN4zJ4/s320/DSCF1221.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We had to leave our shoes upstairs, so again I was glad for my flip flops, but I'm definitely investing in the open toe type rather than these with the little thing you have to put your big toe around - as they are maddeningly awkward and actually very uncomfortable with socks! They told us that someone would come to stamp our passports later that afternoon at 16.00 (I wonder what happens if you arrive later than that?!) and that there was a massage on offer if we would like it (sounded good but as it was for 20.00 I opted out as I was hungry and wanted to head off for food)... and we were told that the food here is very good, in fact "muy rico" (pronounced with a rolling rrrrrrr - for rrrrrrico - the colloquial word for muy bueno. How I wish I had taken the advice as M and I drove around hopelessly for what seemed like hours trying to find somewhere open or somewhere that was serving food sooner than 22.00!! We eventually found somewhere in Lalín that did egg, Spanish sausage and chips plus an ensalada verano (summer salad) and it was delicious, but boy was it a challenge!<br />
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The top door (where we had to deposit our shoes) closes at 20.00, and the downstairs one is left for our use... hmmm that was odd! Thunder storms were due the next day, but should be over by 08.00 and they were not due again until around 16.00 - so fingers X for a walk. <br />
<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-56744538844293317192020-03-31T06:30:00.003-07:002020-04-01T09:39:07.460-07:00<b>El Camino (Levante) just outside Sobreira to Oseira (16.4 km) - Sunday 29th September, 2019. </b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMBmFSzcHPDWo24vCJv4FZXpGy9qDX2tAjAQrkQTP-9UdMlHOmT0IHSYKA_0IUO5jAxlJSHqq2_Hx6bR2gA05Ydib36hyYeMmxyvFCNgBVWXgJazYFY7rbYf1DqxinDH8y-af1ZIO8-wGN/s1600/IMG_3921.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMBmFSzcHPDWo24vCJv4FZXpGy9qDX2tAjAQrkQTP-9UdMlHOmT0IHSYKA_0IUO5jAxlJSHqq2_Hx6bR2gA05Ydib36hyYeMmxyvFCNgBVWXgJazYFY7rbYf1DqxinDH8y-af1ZIO8-wGN/s200/IMG_3921.JPG" width="150" /></a>It started bright and with the tea facility in Casa Mañoso it was very civilised. M had brought me milk just in case and also yoghurt for my breakfast. This was accompanied by blue berries which he rather ingeniously put in a plastic bottle to prevent squashing. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigaN598YtEVYzJRfVvVAGbI9BN9iqtWjC30V2xknQPbul-nSeY-ko8aX5ZGCQJW1DYy_YsDFWx-dzAGg3R2IVr1Gf7beNiB4YKbK-8n0u3d3TlTR1m4Lr6vrBi5KOM1NXix_7VQELmZf_O/s1600/IMG_3920.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigaN598YtEVYzJRfVvVAGbI9BN9iqtWjC30V2xknQPbul-nSeY-ko8aX5ZGCQJW1DYy_YsDFWx-dzAGg3R2IVr1Gf7beNiB4YKbK-8n0u3d3TlTR1m4Lr6vrBi5KOM1NXix_7VQELmZf_O/s320/IMG_3920.JPG" width="320" /></a>I set off from my start point at 08.30 in warm, mild weather and headed to bar "O Camino" at the bottom of Cea. It was the most lovely and peaceful walk over an old Medieval bridge built in the 1300's and restored in the 1800's. It still had the old paving on it. I haded up into Cea and arrived much sooner than I had thought I would. My toes were doing OK and the walking shoes helped. There were just a little tender when going downhill on tar but all off road walking was fine. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDwiO-BNPd0CllPtlUEEsp53oleHJjWDcDJL1mTi6uszGClBCd4rn4clb3C8HkLGI2YrK3bKFOPRP-zt6qo4cpGtkbqYQz341_Y7sA2RCxAEruXpyV5ZDQt0jCe3FMYw26zdXreGsL3MAm/s1600/IMG_3946.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1376" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDwiO-BNPd0CllPtlUEEsp53oleHJjWDcDJL1mTi6uszGClBCd4rn4clb3C8HkLGI2YrK3bKFOPRP-zt6qo4cpGtkbqYQz341_Y7sA2RCxAEruXpyV5ZDQt0jCe3FMYw26zdXreGsL3MAm/s320/IMG_3946.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOD36hJN0iHSx4L1kCJ01LmDouUx9UdEm_3l8AlqeiPgh_TlS4CCTveRhzpqB-Y-2s1kPlSzaUBZ8vkg9feAnlYk82s5pKP2-WR2lnS-HQVBD6e5hqkEasifF9TDOmYvr2BQc41ze_fIrj/s1600/IMG_3928.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOD36hJN0iHSx4L1kCJ01LmDouUx9UdEm_3l8AlqeiPgh_TlS4CCTveRhzpqB-Y-2s1kPlSzaUBZ8vkg9feAnlYk82s5pKP2-WR2lnS-HQVBD6e5hqkEasifF9TDOmYvr2BQc41ze_fIrj/s200/IMG_3928.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCSZqjiJ8SZAjtfOKGf87K7MSireNQ3huB6dF5IYDwZWjCg6E0t8AIX0nuJQOPaU_K_VQeydbnD5kt4bAa_Zp-GYWDv-od40BfGVaZ6cWMFRpzW0_UpcFHuIDK6jSo5Lzyg9Y53G-jezZB/s1600/IMG_3922.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCSZqjiJ8SZAjtfOKGf87K7MSireNQ3huB6dF5IYDwZWjCg6E0t8AIX0nuJQOPaU_K_VQeydbnD5kt4bAa_Zp-GYWDv-od40BfGVaZ6cWMFRpzW0_UpcFHuIDK6jSo5Lzyg9Y53G-jezZB/s200/IMG_3922.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPZbx6i7cSzHkzCY4ffKL23fIzwhqV4CKDXXdGbETz0ehyyWwAXhorY3o0lvqFn2DCiykAqoP_hPKtLSbl49Ud5CiSDrz9AWeH83MTfr2fvaP51MyfPVxUf10AR8UKpRb6QGrv6Mz_6Snf/s1600/IMG_3923.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPZbx6i7cSzHkzCY4ffKL23fIzwhqV4CKDXXdGbETz0ehyyWwAXhorY3o0lvqFn2DCiykAqoP_hPKtLSbl49Ud5CiSDrz9AWeH83MTfr2fvaP51MyfPVxUf10AR8UKpRb6QGrv6Mz_6Snf/s320/IMG_3923.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interesting array of knives, scythes and<br />
saws!!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A light rain from low cloud set in but nothing required a coat. I had a lovely cafe con leche again with M and then walked on past the Forno (the local word - also Portugese - for oven) where the pan de Cea would have been baked and on to the Campo De Fútbal, which is the way we had been directed on the previous day when chatting to a local. He desperately wanted to practice his English and had been a medical chap after the war, spending some time in England and working at Papworth Hospital. He said that there are two ways to the monastery, one by road and one past the football club. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsNRoN4MNJXwk-CxHohZnimdOHyIV2jUsa0fQT4_xDZ7OJ_U1LQK0lQSeS9ofP5F92OYzrtoZYjoxyiQKyPSgWxX5N7sZTE6XLtLR-htNpDVYCozSraQeTxznQ1S8Zmk5nvRmohArO2-cS/s1600/IMG_3955.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsNRoN4MNJXwk-CxHohZnimdOHyIV2jUsa0fQT4_xDZ7OJ_U1LQK0lQSeS9ofP5F92OYzrtoZYjoxyiQKyPSgWxX5N7sZTE6XLtLR-htNpDVYCozSraQeTxznQ1S8Zmk5nvRmohArO2-cS/s200/IMG_3955.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I was so glad we found the old<br />
road to the monastery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Most end up going by road (where we had seen most of the markings during our search for food and when discovering Bar Lua) and there is a much prettier route, and more direct, going up past the Campo. We assumed that most of the road route was a cycle route, and we wondered if we too really had to go that way because we hadn't seen a single marker, yet we wanted to investigate what we had been told by the helpful local gentleman. We saw the same chap actually a number of times over a couple of days in the area when we were back at bars or out for food - he seemed to be a regular fixture of one of the bars and the Plaza Mayor. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLi1HPNAmVwvnsvvRQZekut_S5fxHOGlDLa2xfl6lNNHdM7QNK8fJgQeLb88NDNngej9fWFqr7Z0H1ETbKOmxb8r3XDJ0d-htb8g6GthII2nzoK01EyeuJ86M2LinwnYyWdCMCitMoOZql/s1600/IMG_3924.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLi1HPNAmVwvnsvvRQZekut_S5fxHOGlDLa2xfl6lNNHdM7QNK8fJgQeLb88NDNngej9fWFqr7Z0H1ETbKOmxb8r3XDJ0d-htb8g6GthII2nzoK01EyeuJ86M2LinwnYyWdCMCitMoOZql/s200/IMG_3924.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old staddle stones from an area of<br />
Hórreos</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At this point in our exploration, we were passed by two peregrinos (later we learnt their names were Raphael and Ana) who asked which way to go... so I said to go down the road and turn right, the road route and where we had seen the markers. They had come from the FC and looked lost - and with no arrows to be seen, we wondered if we were right in assuming the way was all by road and if the scenic route described to us might not be correct after all. Having said that, it is the route in my Levante guide, but the gentleman had been clear that most people do not take it and it is often missed by pilgrims. We decided to look around. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiStJ_pMs6I_Ma1XROF4ngkrn0pVBos5YjvCK0MaMK0RKAxVjOP60QrzVyZy8ppIz_fNqe42D7RZ_I_4GtT5xxH_QdH71SIdjLxgPMSflOW6jk3NwVXbop5sOqT8gypBdEPPBx8nVGNsojq/s1600/IMG_3926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiStJ_pMs6I_Ma1XROF4ngkrn0pVBos5YjvCK0MaMK0RKAxVjOP60QrzVyZy8ppIz_fNqe42D7RZ_I_4GtT5xxH_QdH71SIdjLxgPMSflOW6jk3NwVXbop5sOqT8gypBdEPPBx8nVGNsojq/s200/IMG_3926.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These "peto de animas" are wayside shrines that used to <br />
contain figures for remembering souls - peculiar to the<br />
Galician region. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdk71jex66Pj5ZWmed6E1RX0jBTic77PanlZqAp7yG7MjsnxKmceBKqDbRmRCScjI4Nj21vCBgaX0zmHBf4s7rdhIv82vX8DwO7QsP53C_GDe7Ey0zSu2gFGcfxZbTwA1IKKDjTpqyj0wU/s1600/IMG_3927.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdk71jex66Pj5ZWmed6E1RX0jBTic77PanlZqAp7yG7MjsnxKmceBKqDbRmRCScjI4Nj21vCBgaX0zmHBf4s7rdhIv82vX8DwO7QsP53C_GDe7Ey0zSu2gFGcfxZbTwA1IKKDjTpqyj0wU/s320/IMG_3927.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peto de Animas passed on the way to the<br />
Medieval bridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: blue;">The Peto de Animas are small sanctuaries located on roads, crossroads and churches in the autonomous community of Galicia, which are material representations of the cult of the dead and of devotion to souls. The deep feeling of religiosity of many inhabitants Galicia has been inherited from its ancestors and embodied in multiple traditions spread throughout the Galicia.</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><br /></span>
https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peto_de_ánimas<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimK20sJhnMRph4ennmUgh4GoEl4q006IEhlc3VdHqydcm3oS8P0Dy0CdFN9D_tf-WkX3CqHOPJLTcYWpG5ETPIcDlUDJnooDFy-f6O7N94PQ-kJ6oKglOmAbNkeIwsVuDSvW096_L922oV/s1600/IMG_3953.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimK20sJhnMRph4ennmUgh4GoEl4q006IEhlc3VdHqydcm3oS8P0Dy0CdFN9D_tf-WkX3CqHOPJLTcYWpG5ETPIcDlUDJnooDFy-f6O7N94PQ-kJ6oKglOmAbNkeIwsVuDSvW096_L922oV/s200/IMG_3953.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The route I would have<br />
missed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXCPbrlo-nzD_t_BO5lwMZcvy8lz2-FgEzRVIhF9iIYZWdNEBdrn7EHe1BSbTOIIgUXZ07vIXRF_tJ7vwzgIXKKq_oATkCFioIp7UVIDuhxPjLkWSNsF1NpXuklqaMXAWnqTtUYb9EFYEk/s1600/IMG_3954.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXCPbrlo-nzD_t_BO5lwMZcvy8lz2-FgEzRVIhF9iIYZWdNEBdrn7EHe1BSbTOIIgUXZ07vIXRF_tJ7vwzgIXKKq_oATkCFioIp7UVIDuhxPjLkWSNsF1NpXuklqaMXAWnqTtUYb9EFYEk/s200/IMG_3954.JPG" width="150" /></a>I always dread having to walk on the road. It is utterly soul destroying and I knew that if I had to take that route it would be tiring and long as the road routes inevitably are never as direct as walking on the Camino itself across country. The gentleman in the village said that the route we should take is the old route to the monastery, so the original one that pilgrims would have taken, following a Medieval road. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGkuCqt0RCqfjewJFYygQi2efwIKvxGPaYRYqJR1GJMFr4kQLM1v1tUkTKj3xgZHd9xqGbirC6zwwtHMSycjs_xXeUETYd8g0iMDf0sxJ-xa_Exgr-zcmm4ijanh8JZriiCk2KwaV3BqA/s1600/IMG_3960.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGkuCqt0RCqfjewJFYygQi2efwIKvxGPaYRYqJR1GJMFr4kQLM1v1tUkTKj3xgZHd9xqGbirC6zwwtHMSycjs_xXeUETYd8g0iMDf0sxJ-xa_Exgr-zcmm4ijanh8JZriiCk2KwaV3BqA/s200/IMG_3960.JPG" width="200" /></a>We wandered around for some time, up and down and back and forth and finally I noticed a marker, quite a distance out from the town and past the Campo do Fútbal. M had gone in a different direction and I now felt terrible when I realised I had sent the other two pilgrims off on the road route. M and I were due to walk together but I asked him if he could drive to the others and maybe use Google Translate to explain. Also, to offer them a lift back to this much prettier route. Amazingly and wonderfully he did and although they had already gone quite far, he managed to have quite a good chat and they were very grateful (and touched) but also gracious and said it was totally fine, they did not mind the road. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOMLSHVRg3JYXCTF13gZP7-Wfp0D1X0kMIHIBAr0QULDRV5bEeQ9QaJNPFPVuH9Hg6zfA93KFuUTBG9pIVh3aLFkE2HeXdxhbm3K_sAkgeZ_y6ZVJfbiY0LqouFfWdoXJVB3e6ZSFFpOz/s1600/IMG_3967.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="408" data-original-width="1600" height="162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIOMLSHVRg3JYXCTF13gZP7-Wfp0D1X0kMIHIBAr0QULDRV5bEeQ9QaJNPFPVuH9Hg6zfA93KFuUTBG9pIVh3aLFkE2HeXdxhbm3K_sAkgeZ_y6ZVJfbiY0LqouFfWdoXJVB3e6ZSFFpOz/s640/IMG_3967.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Panorama of the ancient way to the monastery - through the woods, peaceful and simply amazing with only birdsong<br />
to be heard... notice the arrow (centre)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinIz9YLwYNM7D_4N6tGAXKId_lZUpu108J3vJc7acPIuIlJyww2OV5eTxQXnvVSY67ejEOszyyscGzkmtw8yb30PLcjLbNYWjgOUZR2-XDpOFemWr1cDpe1GTiLRzBol11eKR7IFYydewN/s1600/IMG_3974.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinIz9YLwYNM7D_4N6tGAXKId_lZUpu108J3vJc7acPIuIlJyww2OV5eTxQXnvVSY67ejEOszyyscGzkmtw8yb30PLcjLbNYWjgOUZR2-XDpOFemWr1cDpe1GTiLRzBol11eKR7IFYydewN/s320/IMG_3974.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Medieval road to the monastery - with walled roadside</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The way was now very uneven in places and had many old medieval slabs still marking the road. As with other medieval sections I had passed along, there were also tall roadside curb stones/roadside vertical stones that marked out the course of the road. I don't think we realise in our modern countryside the amount of work that went into the medieval road and how much they were "built". We have visions of mostly muddy tracks only, but there were often great slabs paving the way - I'm guessing on their version of super highways! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdSLPonWndQhzEBVi05Bh7kDgK6_YXPmQypjpmr6g-6mGZNlGuPE6Jz-8Oln5fDVjRLbjcXxE-oto6EBqZe0_XFQ9OUAFCDJDUekKzA6joiaLd2xBSWYTZZszw4GpeBz2_tNjuqy-0KmCb/s1600/IMG_3966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdSLPonWndQhzEBVi05Bh7kDgK6_YXPmQypjpmr6g-6mGZNlGuPE6Jz-8Oln5fDVjRLbjcXxE-oto6EBqZe0_XFQ9OUAFCDJDUekKzA6joiaLd2xBSWYTZZszw4GpeBz2_tNjuqy-0KmCb/s200/IMG_3966.JPG" width="200" /></a>What I found equally fascinating part way along were the ruts worn into the slabs and still there for all to see! Wow, the number of carts and wheeled vehicles that must have passed this way over the centuries in order to carve their mark on these solid slabs. I recognised them as I had seen them before - in the museum in Toledo and in photographs of the old wagon trains in the West on their journey along the Oregon Trail. Thousands of people making the journey each year left their mark on the landscape, including wheel ruts in solid rock. For a fascinating account of that journey and a re-enactment of it, read "Wagon Wheels - A Contemporary Journey on the Oregon Trail" by Candy Moulton & Ben Kern (1996)<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWnECuS6seTYbTmxoS2tmtZN3yYm1_at9ZiWjfoRoEaonkFn0YY-3Cur315rOzHGrBjkb86I4YZHpvrD-CVDfE_c1EDrR3iTf-MBoqD-BTY4t7FAgwakFuOvTewrl84JPgjGTOLX7zUGm2/s1600/IMG_3972.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWnECuS6seTYbTmxoS2tmtZN3yYm1_at9ZiWjfoRoEaonkFn0YY-3Cur315rOzHGrBjkb86I4YZHpvrD-CVDfE_c1EDrR3iTf-MBoqD-BTY4t7FAgwakFuOvTewrl84JPgjGTOLX7zUGm2/s200/IMG_3972.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wagon ruts on left and right of<br />
the slab</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWvt4DkWi6x-vewvfzIzqXX7eNWIB_ksEymYTyhcqOg9VTug4qaVkLPWGh_E1Ls0yu1dC0WQTSHchIDvCk77TlNbY7YCoNF75mNYGkcgBqC4hg-yDxQvkKs0y_uw7ICiXPAnfoSk2SC7E7/s1600/IMG_3970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWvt4DkWi6x-vewvfzIzqXX7eNWIB_ksEymYTyhcqOg9VTug4qaVkLPWGh_E1Ls0yu1dC0WQTSHchIDvCk77TlNbY7YCoNF75mNYGkcgBqC4hg-yDxQvkKs0y_uw7ICiXPAnfoSk2SC7E7/s320/IMG_3970.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Medieval road where I found many wheel ruts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As usual when I am walking a Medieval road I feel an excitement as though touching history, there is a different energy. As with many of these roads, it was probably abandoned at the the time of the Black Death. After that time, the Camino suffered and fewer people walked it - until recent times. Writing this at the time of Covid19, it is possible to understand how this happened, because even though we are not facing a Black Death, roads are quieter and villages feel eerily quiet. Things are strange and people are suspicious of each other. Imagine how this would have been in the 14th Century when people had even less understanding of how these things occurred or spread. Of course, the Camino is again being effected and I can't imagine what it must have felt like to have been part way to Santiago and to find accommodations closing and the need to try and get home - maybe even to another country, on often little or no great budget! <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHeQuaPEJ67lVxuo7rvRJPRuS6_9D1xXP8qiPRmqCoD8vP9ekXmgoZxb-1OJ4se8Ebn6HBEL1poMi8G33wRfYnKjNaDmYx7_R36ErCMey-h4MPofTmDWcQ1wW7Ez0nLnl33EGYIcILnhRr/s1600/IMG_3975.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHeQuaPEJ67lVxuo7rvRJPRuS6_9D1xXP8qiPRmqCoD8vP9ekXmgoZxb-1OJ4se8Ebn6HBEL1poMi8G33wRfYnKjNaDmYx7_R36ErCMey-h4MPofTmDWcQ1wW7Ez0nLnl33EGYIcILnhRr/s320/IMG_3975.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The walled medieval road - in amazing condition</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8BN_uj9cqrVbN2cSB3FzDaJSDiOVPO7Jz_3WGQkELL-GLSvT049hd-eVtHxelA400WOWOktSNsAM_xVsELalvji8OE1xiPxStimSBNbVtvXJ9vHFLkYxIS2IF9uXEvdjBHlGLKqH2pK8j/s1600/IMG_3978.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8BN_uj9cqrVbN2cSB3FzDaJSDiOVPO7Jz_3WGQkELL-GLSvT049hd-eVtHxelA400WOWOktSNsAM_xVsELalvji8OE1xiPxStimSBNbVtvXJ9vHFLkYxIS2IF9uXEvdjBHlGLKqH2pK8j/s320/IMG_3978.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful - and flowering among the rocks<br />
along the way. I think I was the only pilgrim<br />
to take this route, I met no others</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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In some parts, the full width of the road remained and the walled curbs and guiding stones lining the roadway were in remarkable condition. There were also the most amazing purple flowers coming up among the rocks and a large cairn built near where the old road emerged onto the modern one which then went downhill to the monastery. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidZRGbHK74RzSseXrBQIH-e9e1GFn5Tr-8BHdu0NDTqgvOkbFSqfDnR-LDFPL-0QL-SOJKQuHufQDje3N427qU9v2qZw8iX8RHc91Lq6LksDBUFuBMjyrAjEqjLWakmbgmv3QZ_mHUoGIP/s1600/IMG_3962.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidZRGbHK74RzSseXrBQIH-e9e1GFn5Tr-8BHdu0NDTqgvOkbFSqfDnR-LDFPL-0QL-SOJKQuHufQDje3N427qU9v2qZw8iX8RHc91Lq6LksDBUFuBMjyrAjEqjLWakmbgmv3QZ_mHUoGIP/s200/IMG_3962.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyJrhuGDyjZj7uSbwf_l7_2ixs92BI8AtCQxSjCmg7ftdhOtQupFTxqy1WTEn0SS9UUTsIuf7G00myw1LuWLZaHgwKG86s5sp0L09jc49oGkC90OHyNB2M3W0zxKdAgbPgAzQPlnxM4CM8/s1600/IMG_3979.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyJrhuGDyjZj7uSbwf_l7_2ixs92BI8AtCQxSjCmg7ftdhOtQupFTxqy1WTEn0SS9UUTsIuf7G00myw1LuWLZaHgwKG86s5sp0L09jc49oGkC90OHyNB2M3W0zxKdAgbPgAzQPlnxM4CM8/s200/IMG_3979.JPG" width="200" /></a>The downhill stretch seemed to go on forever. I could hear the monastery bells at times and knew it lay below me. However, I was not prepared for how impressive it actually was. As I came around the last bend the walls towered imposingly above me! I could just imagine how daunting this would have been to the Medieval pilgrim. It is not surprising that the uneducated where in awe of God and those that could read and who held religious power and it was not hard to see how those that had the power could wield it. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8MqlpJ_L_Yp7D2EXh9LdW5HXupigW8E2h1fCRoZqHrsWPVTdxthFnlbtnA-fOpK71lR1CSEwN1NKdIyw4hyEUhz_T3zNeOQbDD7B_U1badKEU-GsnphacfNOFfRK2KygcKdY29EZDf2HS/s1600/DSCF1257.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8MqlpJ_L_Yp7D2EXh9LdW5HXupigW8E2h1fCRoZqHrsWPVTdxthFnlbtnA-fOpK71lR1CSEwN1NKdIyw4hyEUhz_T3zNeOQbDD7B_U1badKEU-GsnphacfNOFfRK2KygcKdY29EZDf2HS/s320/DSCF1257.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The imposing walls of the monastery as you come around<br />the last bend... the photo does not really do it justice</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigmXiTmjXmNtGYHCtXW_V0hHArSJ8Mw76p1WL7OZwP9DqgfWgLxfezAlPBaKQJGR1EkzkHwIn5QhEy328ScKiIVsg7-usS_O9kDK5gRrHA6DrFbXJrh16AS41up71kYWWOi3dUw-7Lbsus/s1600/DSCF1256.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigmXiTmjXmNtGYHCtXW_V0hHArSJ8Mw76p1WL7OZwP9DqgfWgLxfezAlPBaKQJGR1EkzkHwIn5QhEy328ScKiIVsg7-usS_O9kDK5gRrHA6DrFbXJrh16AS41up71kYWWOi3dUw-7Lbsus/s200/DSCF1256.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the road into Oseira</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNTaqEYlUUpBpFiS-W-inKM4C7LsWmTskQf3BNctiSWcN8J5BGl9P6lHsvIB97nl_hHEEhlOpbn4-J-ziKdcEcpp9zNcS-2PXUnmNgq5c2SG1h3M1Qlm2GJoTvoaf-X3GAiRUl59t3-hZa/s1600/DSCF1268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNTaqEYlUUpBpFiS-W-inKM4C7LsWmTskQf3BNctiSWcN8J5BGl9P6lHsvIB97nl_hHEEhlOpbn4-J-ziKdcEcpp9zNcS-2PXUnmNgq5c2SG1h3M1Qlm2GJoTvoaf-X3GAiRUl59t3-hZa/s320/DSCF1268.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love this - I have been so lucky to find Fly Agarics - sent<br />this to Uz... (private joke)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs6A-GSIpaON2WutDnW2l5a4GXDwr8XyQ3weFYc4KnJ23nwC3brQybvQHADY77-OFifi-6NOad39gwQ-SMBqGqdpRUmVPVYusjNCh7nq4WN_7_ZH9eSSKBErf0TC3aOQyyoHAWVK_SbBQ-/s1600/DSCF1254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs6A-GSIpaON2WutDnW2l5a4GXDwr8XyQ3weFYc4KnJ23nwC3brQybvQHADY77-OFifi-6NOad39gwQ-SMBqGqdpRUmVPVYusjNCh7nq4WN_7_ZH9eSSKBErf0TC3aOQyyoHAWVK_SbBQ-/s320/DSCF1254.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHNgeL1TqmzoHNfYG_n7WeGRXTseL5r9UpGfG-tL_78WqxywJZJgTSj4HRMalzwfK6yS2hQVq4qA81vajhpb3EGP5eOxl9EIavkI2T4fYqb0DMoZA_bizLjqPyskzKlkLMKC2E1RDCPjcT/s1600/IMG_3993.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHNgeL1TqmzoHNfYG_n7WeGRXTseL5r9UpGfG-tL_78WqxywJZJgTSj4HRMalzwfK6yS2hQVq4qA81vajhpb3EGP5eOxl9EIavkI2T4fYqb0DMoZA_bizLjqPyskzKlkLMKC2E1RDCPjcT/s640/IMG_3993.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The photographs do not really do it justice and none of my pictures of the imposing outer walls looked as<br />
magnificent or awe inspiring as it felt to stand beneath them. </td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF82kFQ3wc5RTWHID02c4jvI2F2Ri2RPZ80GnINPydiMfN3z9ZsTSUdfpGqxrpUHRksNyBoYggmCFLHovbAX1uCxAU_QUEQB7Or_6YEtOwnbe1pOb_I8pHrkVgP7ttsfooqFo9GBs6MNuH/s1600/IMG_3988.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF82kFQ3wc5RTWHID02c4jvI2F2Ri2RPZ80GnINPydiMfN3z9ZsTSUdfpGqxrpUHRksNyBoYggmCFLHovbAX1uCxAU_QUEQB7Or_6YEtOwnbe1pOb_I8pHrkVgP7ttsfooqFo9GBs6MNuH/s200/IMG_3988.JPG" width="200" /></a>The two pilgrims I had unintentionally diverted had come this way by road and were now sitting in the cafe bar outside the gates. We found them as although we had sat outside for a very welcome cañon (small beer) it started to rain and we took shelter in the bar. Sadly it was only doing simple food, so we were going to be out of luck having dinner that evening - and the vending machine inside the dormitory wasn't offering anything very inspiring! Apparently the lady who usually runs the bar was away, we think in hospital, and so we decided to go back to Bar Lua again. We chatted to our two new friends, in bits of English and Spanish, and offered them a lift to the bar that evening. It is always harder to understand another language when there is so much noise, but we managed - the bar was ringing with joviality and "bon homie"!<br />
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One such group filled with camaraderie was made up of 3 friends, one in particular wearing the typical pilgrim's garb - hat, cape and carrying the gourd on a stick. All had had heart operations and since recovering do the Camino each year. The main chap walks it and the others drive along as his support crew - a bit like M does with me. They also carry his stuff so he walks unencumbered and they carried with them their diary of all the times they had walked it and recording every detail. We found out more about this because Raphael was a heart surgeon and he was particularly proud of them and congratulated them. As they went on their way they shook everyone's hand and kissed everyone all around wishing Buen Camino! <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">"In existence since 1137, it became a monastery of the Cistercian order in 1141, an order of French monks sent by Saint Bernard of Clairvaux. The monks left in 1835 forced to leave by the government policies, abandoning it. They returned in 1929, this time being a community of Cistercians of the Strict Reform - commonly called Trappists. The monastery is popular stopping point on the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostella." - Wikipedia</span><br />
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Apparently the monastery was a favourite stopping point for Graham Green and his Galician priest companion! <br />
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https://www.myguidegalicia.com/things-to-do/oseira-monastery<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivzH09oLwzmsvZNoSGD3sIi2AXv4cOnbqgDab6tlvxeT7yBuQCTOtuchHgCBB8MCKtCtrIxp9Svho_maqPeL2CR4YTSRNIDkLfeLXxZl6xCeNvQ9Aao3OSHAsdwsDMfRePUW2HMz4RTsxR/s1600/IMG_3995.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivzH09oLwzmsvZNoSGD3sIi2AXv4cOnbqgDab6tlvxeT7yBuQCTOtuchHgCBB8MCKtCtrIxp9Svho_maqPeL2CR4YTSRNIDkLfeLXxZl6xCeNvQ9Aao3OSHAsdwsDMfRePUW2HMz4RTsxR/s320/IMG_3995.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My mother said she didn't realise<br />
that we had to actually become<br />
monks in order to stay at the<br />
monastery</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyH58S_6Q27yz6EFJj9HPu-hLTbtHdhZjXhKZCZ9VrjxVynU3DpD3eU1gCz62mAMQmuSZcVJgWTf61UbC0ebj4IZDy-8_wr3bApTE3kLm26q8zTOsSGupa8TbosNBkmU4e3gbfPHmVb_R9/s1600/IMG_3991.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyH58S_6Q27yz6EFJj9HPu-hLTbtHdhZjXhKZCZ9VrjxVynU3DpD3eU1gCz62mAMQmuSZcVJgWTf61UbC0ebj4IZDy-8_wr3bApTE3kLm26q8zTOsSGupa8TbosNBkmU4e3gbfPHmVb_R9/s200/IMG_3991.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My bed for the night</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The couple we met were going on a tour at 15.30 and asked us if we'd like to go. I would have loved to but was so tired, I didn't think my brain would be up to the tour in Spanish! They later told us the it was amazing and the monastery beautiful inside. Maybe another time... we can drive out just to be tourists! The accommodation was a dormitory of 30 beds and two showers and a couple of loos. It was mixed and each bed had power points, mini table and light next to it. It was FREEZING! My sleeping bag came out and I piled up blankets but still needed to sleep in my thermals, socks and snood AND with the sleeping bag hood up. Of course, I needed my flip flops and had left them in the car rucksack! Most days I didn't need them so had decided not to carry them in my main back pack each day. I managed, hopping out of the shower and onto my towel. In the end there were around 6 or 7 of us staying, including two gentlemen who had met on the walk and seemed to be now traveling together - one I think from Brazil. Everyone was friendly and at 17.00 the pilgrim office at the entrance of the dorm opened to stamp passports and take money. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZu3vJk94jtAqCFJ4PGMcVxVxj7lB4h_DHJ1xEtfnUf-XZpMR2QN_uhvWJTZXLnU-om33qA39uUEmS_8mBfbtmQfqb-14ybrZeEuv9Q3lK77CfDvEkTYLz13Ax1GpoHyv8UywbPFii8ZUC/s1600/IMG_3981.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZu3vJk94jtAqCFJ4PGMcVxVxj7lB4h_DHJ1xEtfnUf-XZpMR2QN_uhvWJTZXLnU-om33qA39uUEmS_8mBfbtmQfqb-14ybrZeEuv9Q3lK77CfDvEkTYLz13Ax1GpoHyv8UywbPFii8ZUC/s320/IMG_3981.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2R3BgNeAdxLuWXzXbNtvQ50kVHFJt4gFME4TSoQsYTHCpPvjvP2eFJ2rC4XcoMrw1wnk40ikiW92zNw2Gs_NJjljNA0Nk1WrXR2CQbD1OfkkBfJkh4oUZBmOBgqs9MaEhCwDx7ORg-ScX/s1600/IMG_3984.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2R3BgNeAdxLuWXzXbNtvQ50kVHFJt4gFME4TSoQsYTHCpPvjvP2eFJ2rC4XcoMrw1wnk40ikiW92zNw2Gs_NJjljNA0Nk1WrXR2CQbD1OfkkBfJkh4oUZBmOBgqs9MaEhCwDx7ORg-ScX/s200/IMG_3984.JPG" width="200" /></a>The guidebooks and websites all say that in the last 100km pilgrims should have their passports stamped both on arrival and departure - however, this is almost impossible for two reasons. Firstly, many do not open in the morning before most pilgrims are up, out and on their way! Secondly, not all are manned twice a day. In some places, when we were due to leave early the volunteers actually stamped the passports twice when we arrived and just timed and dated them appropriately - hmmm, not quite sure that's the point, but very good of them. Anyway, I did fret about this somewhat and what it might mean on arrival in Santiago at the Pilgrim's office but I told myself that surely they realised that many would leave before first light and that I had both my diary, photos and passport to prove that I had actually walked from Valencia and not just the last 100km. <br />
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We had a fabulous evening discussing our relative health care systems and current state of European affairs and Brexit with our two friends. It was so pleasant and just what the Camino is all about. They have walked it many times and so they also explained why it wasn't a problem for them to do the road route. They were going to be staying at the same albergue as me on the next part of the route too. They too commented on how delicious the home grown tomatoes were and tonight I had the Merluza and sopa y fideos to go with it. Simply superb and such a lovely host. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7_ogVzGLYpIzEsDk9TAfbvzv43KjG8FGrD9zF9k0Cn4Hk0SLI9ntXn6u3M2-QIWM8O22KiznfPOZuRHKNW5pzKu3C3BgSEMyTT8aweHHc9d95ZlVhRpiNcLx9Jiik0tkBptXEpUBkWGdR/s1600/IMG_3956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7_ogVzGLYpIzEsDk9TAfbvzv43KjG8FGrD9zF9k0Cn4Hk0SLI9ntXn6u3M2-QIWM8O22KiznfPOZuRHKNW5pzKu3C3BgSEMyTT8aweHHc9d95ZlVhRpiNcLx9Jiik0tkBptXEpUBkWGdR/s320/IMG_3956.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">O Camino where M and I met in the morning<br />
when I set off from near Sobreira and on<br />
my way back into Cea on foot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBJlH_77twCvW0f838_4CcHwCo8Y_TYzAq0jrJgKBNdlW08pK-sSyvaLOAbYg2aJJtVasD_HFQOb7O7HSebA_e1ECAWSPRMPJx2VX9HmmpCwMPNwVlwwghG5euFYwrtnt9kA_lnf9eYnz4/s1600/IMG_3959.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBJlH_77twCvW0f838_4CcHwCo8Y_TYzAq0jrJgKBNdlW08pK-sSyvaLOAbYg2aJJtVasD_HFQOb7O7HSebA_e1ECAWSPRMPJx2VX9HmmpCwMPNwVlwwghG5euFYwrtnt9kA_lnf9eYnz4/s200/IMG_3959.JPG" width="200" /></a>A few pictures from the walk, including options for accommodation to others of you undertaking your Camino along this route. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvAdPtQ9N5_4ii96TjLCfn-WT3PDnGWOsWb1E2zWTCeopXSAvqpg29p_m2mnZnwk2D3sUf4eQ9pP7dLEyeahiadc5zzJG_YkH5Fx7HWpFUZ50z_8rWXEpTuEfP7YNvgJuHRVPOwzz7Tf1C/s1600/IMG_3961.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvAdPtQ9N5_4ii96TjLCfn-WT3PDnGWOsWb1E2zWTCeopXSAvqpg29p_m2mnZnwk2D3sUf4eQ9pP7dLEyeahiadc5zzJG_YkH5Fx7HWpFUZ50z_8rWXEpTuEfP7YNvgJuHRVPOwzz7Tf1C/s320/IMG_3961.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFErwPBpmfJNEkwx-HeLiMZKaHLbp1L6QtSzHv5Vx-Vd0WyDv4HbOKMBeZCRHROgpkt3lpCDoJf3QqagJNtHrDaMYv1dpblRQ5xGlr-I0_UMuO6sZpS25nsmehNpOxK2HrTBD9mF8nb7AZ/s1600/IMG_3957.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFErwPBpmfJNEkwx-HeLiMZKaHLbp1L6QtSzHv5Vx-Vd0WyDv4HbOKMBeZCRHROgpkt3lpCDoJf3QqagJNtHrDaMYv1dpblRQ5xGlr-I0_UMuO6sZpS25nsmehNpOxK2HrTBD9mF8nb7AZ/s320/IMG_3957.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWk8_st8ed6mSgufHA7Ds7XbAfAXQx3gjnxFNJLDvTrTb3TALfjzA9I3SHXXWSdRr13fnwTFupPX5lQE6gYQXuD6gy5tKWSQIRmfdJKZShc1Q_-K5h-1XMnfTWphbfq2qr1ZRTr190GEp-/s1600/IMG_3958.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWk8_st8ed6mSgufHA7Ds7XbAfAXQx3gjnxFNJLDvTrTb3TALfjzA9I3SHXXWSdRr13fnwTFupPX5lQE6gYQXuD6gy5tKWSQIRmfdJKZShc1Q_-K5h-1XMnfTWphbfq2qr1ZRTr190GEp-/s320/IMG_3958.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-24157215699898608912020-03-30T09:47:00.003-07:002020-04-10T03:36:25.100-07:00<h2>
<b><u>And Finally... Ourense to Santiago! My last 114.9km</u> </b></h2>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM_ugLOTSzFWhvTvyDjFuvQtFoOoLumiCP_viCVWotopkDtfySOq-iaJRcGgsIOdArV8GLwdsHV1gQ3a4_GhW7hdmyKoqb30u6uzMshZgkfC2KvEIZsj9dOEwBQD97pGpNQ1NeCuWiDAho/s1600/IMG_3881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM_ugLOTSzFWhvTvyDjFuvQtFoOoLumiCP_viCVWotopkDtfySOq-iaJRcGgsIOdArV8GLwdsHV1gQ3a4_GhW7hdmyKoqb30u6uzMshZgkfC2KvEIZsj9dOEwBQD97pGpNQ1NeCuWiDAho/s320/IMG_3881.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These boots were made for walking...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Well, here it is! I can't believe after all these years and many journeys along different sections of the Camino, I am now on the final leg of this momentous journey. I am both excited and sad to think it will soon be over, but on the whole, there is more excitement and a real sense of achievement. I know that I will certainly plan another and my complete joy of long distance walks as well as pilgrimage has been inspired by my Levante experience. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO1NyVAFik5MCD9vC_OHhyFTeEm1a-sKIkEc05m0_SgJ64jDhBzPJ2O7_X_1x4E6P17RI6RXJHcaKKMRr5FcMqr4g7TcPHjhWRwgh-w0ZvPjGf2J9MzCw2Fbmx3WVarwXhYRxjxI7fQ_xY/s1600/IMG_3939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="720" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO1NyVAFik5MCD9vC_OHhyFTeEm1a-sKIkEc05m0_SgJ64jDhBzPJ2O7_X_1x4E6P17RI6RXJHcaKKMRr5FcMqr4g7TcPHjhWRwgh-w0ZvPjGf2J9MzCw2Fbmx3WVarwXhYRxjxI7fQ_xY/s200/IMG_3939.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Think I will be over my weight limit<br />
if I include this one! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After last year's disastrous start, where planes were late, we missed connections and ended up with only a few hours sleep before the first day walking, we decided that we would build in a day of resting and relaxing. This would allow an extra day to arrive and relax a bit should something put a spanner in the works - but as it happened, all went well and we were able to have the most amazing, relaxing day back at the hot springs. The one we visited last year seemed to be closed for refurbishment but we found another, Termas Outariz, which were even better! Very Japanese Zen themed with lovely pools and jacuzzi type water jets... cold plunges and caves.<br />
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https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=https://www.termasourense.com/termas-outariz&prev=search<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGHTMU6P7id-i7uqtA9H7zl9RgKTas05ujQ_AtkCkfrtQPG68tOoHqodpvLHBt9w-u6twJsYtfjJMw6SvSALe7WWFsNzmy5bl_HJ8qRiUfKVNFWOgmdwoEAKF4dNXTUrd3kT367Dzbz1rk/s1600/IMG_3884.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGHTMU6P7id-i7uqtA9H7zl9RgKTas05ujQ_AtkCkfrtQPG68tOoHqodpvLHBt9w-u6twJsYtfjJMw6SvSALe7WWFsNzmy5bl_HJ8qRiUfKVNFWOgmdwoEAKF4dNXTUrd3kT367Dzbz1rk/s320/IMG_3884.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready to go! My new shell and patch added</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6MCMtC-P6tw_1gbKoe7RemIWPS3cvrNNM7XjrExcYxQzQO_8fqyHptotc9N666ELPiSteZypdRUMMIcA1MBmYU34iNcFHbQCXNpNy8K6dIAFj1Iv4xhGVMWP_Qow6JIPMIjh7U_50bSdO/s1600/IMG_3895.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6MCMtC-P6tw_1gbKoe7RemIWPS3cvrNNM7XjrExcYxQzQO_8fqyHptotc9N666ELPiSteZypdRUMMIcA1MBmYU34iNcFHbQCXNpNy8K6dIAFj1Iv4xhGVMWP_Qow6JIPMIjh7U_50bSdO/s200/IMG_3895.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrival at Santiago airport - no other<br />
sign needed!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I would thoroughly recommend visiting a hot spring in Ourense. They are such good value for money and you can hire towels, flip flops and so on there. We had a lovely little bite to eat afterwards overlooking the river with an ice cold beer and although our lovely rabbit asado takeaway was no longer in business in Allariz, we still had delicious food at our favourite restaurant in the area at the pulpería - Orixe. I had Michael booked into the Eurostars Ourense for 4 nights (where we stayed before with amazing staff and comfortable rooms) and I was staying for 2 nights (day of arrival and the day off) before heading out to Sobriera. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiriBrW8sSviL_H5leHZkRmBxPtnJUszRfrVYY3WE6bb7n4bXnwfFQ2JhRttAKKy-Cq5TXBIrVrSlUlYYsJB7PYHTBAl9HpTWUOb954S2Z-qGlADQvUHaK2ULwEjjCFl3tk8rD0sfur0oE4/s1600/IMG_3897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiriBrW8sSviL_H5leHZkRmBxPtnJUszRfrVYY3WE6bb7n4bXnwfFQ2JhRttAKKy-Cq5TXBIrVrSlUlYYsJB7PYHTBAl9HpTWUOb954S2Z-qGlADQvUHaK2ULwEjjCFl3tk8rD0sfur0oE4/s320/IMG_3897.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At pulpería Orixe</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We also decided to use our day off to stock up on some of our favourite Spanish goodies! These are not just foodstuffs either. One product is the "quitasgrasas" from Mercadona, their own brand of cleaning surfactant which is the best I have every used and smells divine. I got three of these (we travelled with an empty hand luggage bag so that on our return we can put the goodies in the hold and laundry in the overhead locker)... and we bought various snacks for the coming days. One has to have nibbles when walking the Camino - it gives one an appetite. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3BqeYBKE-cKbFAJnTjQDpOYRP7G4lWIMXhpoBTo00hfMoZq31mIdKuFkWYAileNEcINsonMebjTxzzLaar-TC_xMBcX22RxaRZVGjBbdyAIspqdhnaEAEup3-mlG96D7pIMuMdwjHcxXl/s1600/IMG_3899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3BqeYBKE-cKbFAJnTjQDpOYRP7G4lWIMXhpoBTo00hfMoZq31mIdKuFkWYAileNEcINsonMebjTxzzLaar-TC_xMBcX22RxaRZVGjBbdyAIspqdhnaEAEup3-mlG96D7pIMuMdwjHcxXl/s200/IMG_3899.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On our way to the termas</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAfCPgAENHjeQpZxIeK1hB2uR3fzYNE4WkdqACL20bieek8PfAXX0MJJzzp_G2ryLoS0Pn_1qioXi6XiWAiD4vAQYUbo2CIQFWdQKG_g_-H-S-85K-EoSAuGUOP_Pf6FGjclEHCQ3Vq_DT/s1600/IMG_3900.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAfCPgAENHjeQpZxIeK1hB2uR3fzYNE4WkdqACL20bieek8PfAXX0MJJzzp_G2ryLoS0Pn_1qioXi6XiWAiD4vAQYUbo2CIQFWdQKG_g_-H-S-85K-EoSAuGUOP_Pf6FGjclEHCQ3Vq_DT/s200/IMG_3900.JPG" width="150" /></a>Mercadona again comes up trumps on the nibbles front - my favourite "muy crujientes" nuts and seeds in sweet and sour flavours and which had had a name change (around 8 packets at least!)... Ines Rosales aniseed flavour (crispy sweet tortillas), some dark chocolate mini type of toblerone sweets, but not sweet and not toblerone and something new... Spirulina and chia biscuits! Wow, who'd have thought it? I can't wait to go back and get more of these when we walk in Spain again!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX0-qQ_ZvSqYoAgIvbzlHn_vHkVwlo3JSNx9h-xY96jJIlHJznP86XsMDbvRKCL_jxwPRgauBuSXWj4_7vBBL2wkKs3LUYmb5YZc1E2tOS4vchplxkr4iPYqba-J0A9StrBrQ9N4ierkOW/s1600/IMG_3898.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX0-qQ_ZvSqYoAgIvbzlHn_vHkVwlo3JSNx9h-xY96jJIlHJznP86XsMDbvRKCL_jxwPRgauBuSXWj4_7vBBL2wkKs3LUYmb5YZc1E2tOS4vchplxkr4iPYqba-J0A9StrBrQ9N4ierkOW/s320/IMG_3898.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXKfFoz4dlRBb9jcJ_L323k6rxAxZ-8g1OfFuXly30mvo2O7pc4KzVFqRVKHC6YVMp2xuMJHx9gpzjtVliqwjHVl7v0Iivb8BL6BhLDoRWRySdaIBu1sqJyn2ZTMX9xjTLYuJQfWxykJsv/s1600/IMG_3901.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXKfFoz4dlRBb9jcJ_L323k6rxAxZ-8g1OfFuXly30mvo2O7pc4KzVFqRVKHC6YVMp2xuMJHx9gpzjtVliqwjHVl7v0Iivb8BL6BhLDoRWRySdaIBu1sqJyn2ZTMX9xjTLYuJQfWxykJsv/s200/IMG_3901.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting at a coffee shop for a different<br />
asador to get our dinner ready to take away</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPhIsmk6SzeTevUwkWQUtjiUrXf-LcE1DgYZcsR9fGxjux7mor3UmwZ-BLjKwhiwO-QEsEv_fS-zjvB8dE-I8wYYjESt_uEi1g5oCkRLoVK1U-gYFzVTvBOTVwK4njgAIiD-zbKeQ22n14/s1600/IMG_3917.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1376" data-original-width="774" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPhIsmk6SzeTevUwkWQUtjiUrXf-LcE1DgYZcsR9fGxjux7mor3UmwZ-BLjKwhiwO-QEsEv_fS-zjvB8dE-I8wYYjESt_uEi1g5oCkRLoVK1U-gYFzVTvBOTVwK4njgAIiD-zbKeQ22n14/s320/IMG_3917.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beginning - of the end...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>El Camino (Levante) Ourense to Sobreira (14.6 km) - Saturday 28th September, 2019. </b><br />
I left in the dark, I always forget that we are still an hour behind in the UK so 07.00 is dark there but 08.00 is dark here in Spain! I had located our start arrow after the Roman Bridge during our day off. Right at a petrol station and at the next shell be sure to make the right fork!! I didn't. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_t-_f-ZxMmPeMDYmoOArdUyTg8rbVcfgcc9jM-7OTjHa4YHY79vRM4b16-uAeVvxRV0vIEj1SONsJPhEel3MTmJ1vS0-hS62OtnesQN3m8nn2hSLy5W8fvP7iM503AHDjRs6whNBlhg-G/s1600/IMG_3909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_t-_f-ZxMmPeMDYmoOArdUyTg8rbVcfgcc9jM-7OTjHa4YHY79vRM4b16-uAeVvxRV0vIEj1SONsJPhEel3MTmJ1vS0-hS62OtnesQN3m8nn2hSLy5W8fvP7iM503AHDjRs6whNBlhg-G/s200/IMG_3909.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love this sign - it indicates<br />
just how steep it is. I sent it<br />
to my friend Jayne</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After roaming around and wandering about, up and down the road, feeling frustrated at not even being able to find the way only 2 minutes after starting, I eventually located the right way. These things happen on the Camino and one expects it, but going wrong immediately at the start on the first day isn't funny. You want to get going, you want to feel like you are on the way again! I know one shouldn't feel it is a waste of time, but on this morning I felt like it was. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-KRpFvRDF0h47_yp3JtJf3kAIcSoPzdRcKh3bRSqx7NbmUVA8aXTNWDTaNg9yzntJCg9KIVM6B_Pe_HGg9kObkPJHndYcfZ6JMRfOG2-pebPCiVamlEr4bdY2yrbx-MHvy0vcjOLvGtEn/s1600/IMG_3907.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-KRpFvRDF0h47_yp3JtJf3kAIcSoPzdRcKh3bRSqx7NbmUVA8aXTNWDTaNg9yzntJCg9KIVM6B_Pe_HGg9kObkPJHndYcfZ6JMRfOG2-pebPCiVamlEr4bdY2yrbx-MHvy0vcjOLvGtEn/s200/IMG_3907.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The steep climb - although<br />
the photo doesn't quite do<br />
it justice</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWUgn0cJ3X8hy6p0eFPum4LmfQDeQDP_5SxZDNgCzYW7llyS4U6FZf37saAGSRERY_-qeAhQTTl5pcdzCNmRw7-clYzIJuEeoOiOB6z7pkFhnZPVYY4JIGOzULOkKrqQnrY4MH3UmZ-Awy/s1600/IMG_3905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWUgn0cJ3X8hy6p0eFPum4LmfQDeQDP_5SxZDNgCzYW7llyS4U6FZf37saAGSRERY_-qeAhQTTl5pcdzCNmRw7-clYzIJuEeoOiOB6z7pkFhnZPVYY4JIGOzULOkKrqQnrY4MH3UmZ-Awy/s320/IMG_3905.JPG" width="240" /></a>The forked right hand road goes down a little and then up, up and more up. This is a very, very steep climb! Gosh, that's a start for a first day and without a huge amount of preparation - coming from Norfolk which is mostly flat! I knew it was going to be a steep climb out of Ourense because I had not only done a lot of "down" at the end of my last section of the Camino, but the river Miño runs through the centre of the city. On my last trip I had also faced a very, very steep climb, but that had been at the end of the day and after only a few hours of sleep. I stopped to catch my breath regularly and admired the many different artistic markers for this part of the Camino. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHoaZfzbQPS7v8Hp_2Uhh8_2_J7t2GSs_TSeTC5yt4GESQq-SnGTrv_fyIf3-wmMOtYn683OHIQ8HrgefixPhLSGXoJS-JE9iJdMF8LB7sIWbFczY4uoOQ5ZGrzcHRhpHoZqTXcANeGxYC/s1600/IMG_3906.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHoaZfzbQPS7v8Hp_2Uhh8_2_J7t2GSs_TSeTC5yt4GESQq-SnGTrv_fyIf3-wmMOtYn683OHIQ8HrgefixPhLSGXoJS-JE9iJdMF8LB7sIWbFczY4uoOQ5ZGrzcHRhpHoZqTXcANeGxYC/s320/IMG_3906.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buen Camino in Galician - lots of Portugese<br />
influence in the language here</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It's just harder to get lost now - there are markers on almost every house and regularly along the route. Having said that, I did manage to make some wrong turns at times (and even struggled to find the way on one occasion) - for the exact reason that there are so many markers! Many different Camino start to converge in Galicia and so it is possible to accidentally end up walking "back" along one of those other routes! Also there seem to be many alternative routes for horse riders, and so it is also possible to end up taking one of these and they aren't always as pretty and sadly, in a number of cases, seem to take road routes. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8vjwcILPPTS2dramaW9qzyFwGxK8IxdANf26tMcTyzos59jyojSOOqKRKE6fBTkU-lU6D9x2QCCH4ZHwbHvDULtk8tqHYf7Z_ZKmPCrGn3b47D7PZE8bMneybzfm49d-kUVcI20dpL4IK/s1600/IMG_3911.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8vjwcILPPTS2dramaW9qzyFwGxK8IxdANf26tMcTyzos59jyojSOOqKRKE6fBTkU-lU6D9x2QCCH4ZHwbHvDULtk8tqHYf7Z_ZKmPCrGn3b47D7PZE8bMneybzfm49d-kUVcI20dpL4IK/s200/IMG_3911.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A welcome bench!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Later in this Camino I take a wrong route and I'm so glad I did - it was beautiful and I would have really missed out. There are often alternative routes - due to local changes, for seasonal weather reasons and so on. On the occasion of the beautiful route I don't quite know why it had been re-routed, but I was glad I found the original. It is also the case that sometimes people seem to walk the cycle route - but I really do not enjoy the road walking and I have no idea why they would choose to walk on tar. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXnctYICU1EmH23X8CGZfI1o3_ToAyKR5O1mIvXvWBQcN6smxb5CJdUlmVMQR8V13jSanFuOAnLmdggrdFQaKI2T2_RhRKQoY3PklImk3DBpmoDNPqpqTvU7rM2vAF5gR2cV5bE90IWLz/s1600/IMG_3908.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSXnctYICU1EmH23X8CGZfI1o3_ToAyKR5O1mIvXvWBQcN6smxb5CJdUlmVMQR8V13jSanFuOAnLmdggrdFQaKI2T2_RhRKQoY3PklImk3DBpmoDNPqpqTvU7rM2vAF5gR2cV5bE90IWLz/s320/IMG_3908.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The little square with the morning bells ringing - a welcome<br />
"flat" rest stop on the way up - you can see the curve of the<br />
road on the left of the photo!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
About half way up (having been passed by speedy cyclists going uphill), there was a lovely square and a bench. I took the opportunity to stop and to rest on the bench - in honour of my friend Jayne Hunt who has a great knack of magicking up somewhere to sit at just the right moment. I sent her a photo and thanks for the magic at this point! Fortunately it was slightly misty and very cool, I wouldn't have enjoyed this first uphill slog in the heat. <br />
<br />
I was very much looking forward to my morning cafe con leche muy caliente and it was delicious when it came. Michael had found it in the bar near the hotel. They were great, each morning filling the flask and providing a bocadillo which in this area apparently requires the second "l" to be pronounced. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfu6USggt0Hl4kBNUMMIwJSdt9X8a12qIHm3-sx0pkJPFksT67pwk8z5K3dCloUbvbrHqvxPUdq-r3ublX_9dDo8UVHJ-QFoIWyh9dKUCFjQw71jwjaVzsnpxdlVhkRVCaT249aZOs0q7Q/s1600/IMG_3913.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfu6USggt0Hl4kBNUMMIwJSdt9X8a12qIHm3-sx0pkJPFksT67pwk8z5K3dCloUbvbrHqvxPUdq-r3ublX_9dDo8UVHJ-QFoIWyh9dKUCFjQw71jwjaVzsnpxdlVhkRVCaT249aZOs0q7Q/s640/IMG_3913.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beautiful Camino markers of this region.. some artist designed. Here we have three options, so no getting lost, you<br />
can be sure you are heading in the right direction at this point!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
My feet and my toes in particular were feeling quite bruised and sore. I had trie to stop confusion from dance by using flat shoes in the week or so before walking, as in ballroom and Latin we are often on our toes, but my feet were still tender. I had worn my big boots as I wasn't sure if it would be wet today or if I would need the grip, but tomorrow I will change back to my hiking shoes to have a break. My boots are still quite new and don't need "walking in" for short hikes, but on longer 14km plus days they are still less forgiving.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM7o8YAYFCcZ_LUvSzGsw-DyAmB42tfk6RlY0SYGldvaHGOJ_WeSMrgXsWk4gApEy53NOkE2XCS0VPQ9anwEFyHSw1jfz8zAssnbAbP6_C3Pt1a33vvxvmB1rqr2kj7sQpUGngkH4EO2Wf/s1600/IMG_3914.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM7o8YAYFCcZ_LUvSzGsw-DyAmB42tfk6RlY0SYGldvaHGOJ_WeSMrgXsWk4gApEy53NOkE2XCS0VPQ9anwEFyHSw1jfz8zAssnbAbP6_C3Pt1a33vvxvmB1rqr2kj7sQpUGngkH4EO2Wf/s320/IMG_3914.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hórreo store with pumpkins below</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUIkKU7FrtgKNwzH9NqQSwRJkGUjzogcxLm5gFFZtdrXa7peD8jWREUoeQmiiwGPZEVpIAC9dn0-c6jZjfuNiMwGUxQRA3117nmw0oxwCHQ7CiU-vUh3R0pIV0ugByJQ6NmqRjB4Ql8Nqx/s1600/IMG_3918.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUIkKU7FrtgKNwzH9NqQSwRJkGUjzogcxLm5gFFZtdrXa7peD8jWREUoeQmiiwGPZEVpIAC9dn0-c6jZjfuNiMwGUxQRA3117nmw0oxwCHQ7CiU-vUh3R0pIV0ugByJQ6NmqRjB4Ql8Nqx/s200/IMG_3918.JPG" width="200" /></a>As usual, those walking in reverse missed signs. I actually really admire those who can do it the other way. I can't say I would enjoy that challenge so much although having walked the Levante route I would have a better chance of retracing my steps because at least I know some landmarks. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcSjZxi8kxTkBUIdINz3LNzTx9xHvZLnbjRNQgYocbXifrIkuUceSLKd2LXXlny9wlj4XMUvg_x8DGIRspFYfz_zka7iQDc52A5mGlGi_Chc4LB6hY4cHsW277ffuidB2McKgnDx8WpEwj/s1600/IMG_3929.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1376" data-original-width="774" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcSjZxi8kxTkBUIdINz3LNzTx9xHvZLnbjRNQgYocbXifrIkuUceSLKd2LXXlny9wlj4XMUvg_x8DGIRspFYfz_zka7iQDc52A5mGlGi_Chc4LB6hY4cHsW277ffuidB2McKgnDx8WpEwj/s320/IMG_3929.JPG" width="180" /></a>I saw a few peregrinos on the road, it is sad to see them there when the walking trail is not only more beautiful but much more comfortable under foot. I tried to attract their attention to indicate they should head towards me and get back on the way, but they were head down and trudging on and did not notice me. I was so focused on my own Camino and at this point trying to get the attention of these other pilgrims, that I walked on past a lovely bar that Michael and I had intended to meet at. It is in the town of Tamallancos. We had completed forgotten to arrange the actual meeting and mark the spot - so M also headed on to the next meeting point, the Sobreira cross roads. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVqkuukAwpbKvkVRsEX_biPBjpcGlnDOLYdhFW99SDm6XyCn-nxFhZhC_4OHcS5aJyz3E1XfyDDeO-jbgge6TPBLDvUpFbyDO-aM3mUy5hV57LUtcf3Iom_4UAINXmJtUKOmRr0l7bh0d_/s1600/IMG_3930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="774" data-original-width="1376" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVqkuukAwpbKvkVRsEX_biPBjpcGlnDOLYdhFW99SDm6XyCn-nxFhZhC_4OHcS5aJyz3E1XfyDDeO-jbgge6TPBLDvUpFbyDO-aM3mUy5hV57LUtcf3Iom_4UAINXmJtUKOmRr0l7bh0d_/s320/IMG_3930.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Before the bar there had been a lady walking (as many Spanish do) just to keep fit and get some exercise - she was an older lady, but still out and singing away between stops every so often to catch her breath.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIZgORos5U0Yg8SLe9t2LDRH60PDrHRPtzs4k7tMVAqVl5oKwnSP03BEPOn71xf1mf-tsaXKsrKJRvZIWBt8zd-TpO41VR2MsAKRsU97takdk8NZB0hYVZblujgP_GhIXGE026OAAGsSdZ/s1600/IMG_3933.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIZgORos5U0Yg8SLe9t2LDRH60PDrHRPtzs4k7tMVAqVl5oKwnSP03BEPOn71xf1mf-tsaXKsrKJRvZIWBt8zd-TpO41VR2MsAKRsU97takdk8NZB0hYVZblujgP_GhIXGE026OAAGsSdZ/s200/IMG_3933.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from my room - my socks<br />
were drying on the windowsill!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihPU5HVNCA13QP4j7SAjYitdut_GgKoCN6nzbjFKXRVXTfdiOqBmqCrIelNOZx7yFPP4sCqWIadLCyB1f1JrvCPrGPDSpWUNEYCWWMdii-GlLHCS-zWUiBsp1mLGn41S_7-ANmffyEoVoo/s1600/IMG_3935.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihPU5HVNCA13QP4j7SAjYitdut_GgKoCN6nzbjFKXRVXTfdiOqBmqCrIelNOZx7yFPP4sCqWIadLCyB1f1JrvCPrGPDSpWUNEYCWWMdii-GlLHCS-zWUiBsp1mLGn41S_7-ANmffyEoVoo/s320/IMG_3935.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lovely room in Casa Mañoso</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I was heading to Cea to meet Roberto at Casa Mañoso. I would start again at Sobreira the next day, but stay the night in the casa - a beautiful old home. Thank goodness for WhatsApp messages and for learning Spanish! I had to arrange a time to go in as he had a family event and I was going to be there earlier than expected. It was going to take him 20 minutes to get to the casa and M was going to have some time back at the Eurostars while I had a rest, washed clothes and showered. Roberto was wonderful - friendly and welcoming and he gave me the double room at the rate of a single €35.00 rather €40.00 because there was only one other person staying that night. I was very glad of the comfort - I needed a good night's sleep and although I don't mind the albergue experience, I do prefer the hostals on the whole. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaOtFmuKMjMtK2gKUA2tf4oN17CnZarylF6zZ2gMCDydu6duB1XbIATiJ119ACyANL7iBN_8AEMs-jKquRE_Zo70_KFhgL96A5g9fzMVRRilVGN286Dl4Q2dJfswwMkc4bXAasY26E1qIE/s1600/IMG_3934.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaOtFmuKMjMtK2gKUA2tf4oN17CnZarylF6zZ2gMCDydu6duB1XbIATiJ119ACyANL7iBN_8AEMs-jKquRE_Zo70_KFhgL96A5g9fzMVRRilVGN286Dl4Q2dJfswwMkc4bXAasY26E1qIE/s200/IMG_3934.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvnkE7LU_sEDX4V_o3VBy1UQ2rcKUuKSiRIA_u8PZdlnVm32nlK1bhoA29Aj5jL3YgMX3OoxeNNOoR4M2I4x3IBAp5v3M4VZRZTz8FwfjYU608o9ckmzRJ-EzqcwO07i8Syn4hyphenhyphenIMYOvKe/s1600/IMG_3937.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvnkE7LU_sEDX4V_o3VBy1UQ2rcKUuKSiRIA_u8PZdlnVm32nlK1bhoA29Aj5jL3YgMX3OoxeNNOoR4M2I4x3IBAp5v3M4VZRZTz8FwfjYU608o9ckmzRJ-EzqcwO07i8Syn4hyphenhyphenIMYOvKe/s200/IMG_3937.JPG" width="150" /></a>There was a kettle for tea and coffee and a little mini help yourself breakfast area with milk in a fridge and a place to make toast etc. This was their family home, with all the old furniture and history still within the building. They live elsewhere but have made this available to peregrinos. I had a very good sleep and had left my socks and a few other clothes that I had washed, drying on the windowsill overlooking a beautiful view into the countryside. I had tucked them in tight as I didn't want them disappearing off into the orchard below! <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj_bES2rMMnpiMYjIQm3UJ6n4QOkC5LQ0duT40jy_19KuRPT7_d-wDp7TBdMuikX1UofdIg0FFM2IZhzjT34pwguXBaPYe-vRgVUfuLvwrqDuzYiwsdN_Ji_WSI-0evCKO5deO7q2usnN_/s1600/IMG_3940.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj_bES2rMMnpiMYjIQm3UJ6n4QOkC5LQ0duT40jy_19KuRPT7_d-wDp7TBdMuikX1UofdIg0FFM2IZhzjT34pwguXBaPYe-vRgVUfuLvwrqDuzYiwsdN_Ji_WSI-0evCKO5deO7q2usnN_/s320/IMG_3940.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Central Cea at night - the Plaza Mayor</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgftwQT8Ua9HM2QGvX3BCM1cUnAWmdTc6AzJ-OWADWkIn9xIWaeGbjrM2IsRxGI50lv9v1buyT-F70sDqzwhEETDaC-2a1SysO2-F_Fn-vKCBcRLwJRczOf-E9lcRVGF1eQusrToQXgS8-I/s1600/IMG_3938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgftwQT8Ua9HM2QGvX3BCM1cUnAWmdTc6AzJ-OWADWkIn9xIWaeGbjrM2IsRxGI50lv9v1buyT-F70sDqzwhEETDaC-2a1SysO2-F_Fn-vKCBcRLwJRczOf-E9lcRVGF1eQusrToQXgS8-I/s200/IMG_3938.JPG" width="150" /></a>I wandered out into the Plaza Mayor to wait for M and sat in the sunshine, the last afternoon rays being very welcome and soothing after the strenuous walk. From there we headed out to "Bar Lua" and I thoroughly, thoroughly recommend it! Wow, all home made and home grown - grilled peppers and one of the most delicious sweet tomato salads I have every eaten! Wow, that alone would have satisfied me. The local delicacy is Locón - which is only made with pork shoulder and it is a special asado of this area. We were probably served "pan de Cea" with it - also an artisanal bread from this area and registered only to "Cea". It is darker than most Spanish white bread - and is much more like a sourdough type. Delicious. <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Pan de Cea is a traditional type of bread made in the Municipality of San Cristovo de Cea, in the north-west of the Province of Ourense and it requires a certificate of origin to be authentic. It is made by kneading wheat flour, water, salt and masa madre, the previously fermented yeast dough, into an elastic and tough dough.</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Pan de Cea is both a PGI - protected geographical indication which means that at least one of the stages of the production, preparation or processing must take place in the region. Not surprisingly, I have only found it in Galicia. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinEroU5lpe7MxYGIps0bZY0Qlgymzkvnnqhi4w40dY6pYerI0oGcRNzAZuG7Qg2YJD2mR0sU_LFpQFJFkth23Y4Cug_Af-sKFFgcBb7osZDvABMaYuGgnD1WMsyY0tVNvA7V72Ibo7-jwN/s1600/Unknown.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="162" data-original-width="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinEroU5lpe7MxYGIps0bZY0Qlgymzkvnnqhi4w40dY6pYerI0oGcRNzAZuG7Qg2YJD2mR0sU_LFpQFJFkth23Y4Cug_Af-sKFFgcBb7osZDvABMaYuGgnD1WMsyY0tVNvA7V72Ibo7-jwN/s1600/Unknown.jpeg" /></a><span style="color: blue;">The bread dough is then left to ferment, or rest, for 45 to 60 minutes. The bread is then kneaded once more and baked in special, wood-burning granite ovens. These ovens are the characteristic feature of the production of this bread and are specially shaped to ensure uniform baking.</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 255);">The origin of the town of San Cristóbal de Cea and its baking tradition is linked to the history of a Cistercian monastery, Santa María la Real de Oseira, famous for its octopus tradition. The monastery developed the techniques of baking and grinding, while the town of Cea supplied the bread. Due to its location at a crossroads, its fame led it to be known as the “town of good bread”. In particular, the passage of the Way to Santiago by the Silver Way on its branch through Sanabria contributed to this. The antiquity of the bread of Cea’s recipe is 700 years, but it has not lost any of its properties.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghZ3laBdOm53cv_iTLiiNRL4ovo36e-p2sOAc0R0OsYZKtLkmabed6jexEnooUGFlQ1EwAtQWhaDERyhMclv63B3fsBZHXjteNZmNDSTNZeigWD4b4YwLLwv33z-3YUeG6g1b0uMBNJb7U/s1600/Unknown-1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="275" data-original-width="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghZ3laBdOm53cv_iTLiiNRL4ovo36e-p2sOAc0R0OsYZKtLkmabed6jexEnooUGFlQ1EwAtQWhaDERyhMclv63B3fsBZHXjteNZmNDSTNZeigWD4b4YwLLwv33z-3YUeG6g1b0uMBNJb7U/s1600/Unknown-1.jpeg" /></a><a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gastronomiadegalicia.com%2Fv_portal%2Fapartados%2Fapartado.asp%3Fte%3D63&psig=AOvVaw1Pn84eay8jR6sKtmH4rwka&ust=1585671949317000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=2ahUKEwjZs7a7zsLoAhWIwuAKHYHBACsQr4kDegUIARDhAQ">indicacion geografica protegida pan ...gastronomiadegalicia.com</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuwI7HoQ3lt6hePbI5JR0irAxfUmwD10hm4aZesCXimtP433UOx1ekP3KMOPdnOfSKnssfE6iJ_C_3Nh5KUJ-kO0tEMFpEZzakPmtio9c-NiQ9UFQEOiEbEodkN5CH0GUwKqpEbTOrX1EP/s1600/Unknown-2.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="183" data-original-width="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuwI7HoQ3lt6hePbI5JR0irAxfUmwD10hm4aZesCXimtP433UOx1ekP3KMOPdnOfSKnssfE6iJ_C_3Nh5KUJ-kO0tEMFpEZzakPmtio9c-NiQ9UFQEOiEbEodkN5CH0GUwKqpEbTOrX1EP/s1600/Unknown-2.jpeg" /></a>As we walked in and around Cea we noticed many old and derelict "hornos" or ovens, used for baking the bread. Some where preserved historical monuments and sadly we missed the statue of the lady kneading bread as we left the town. However, I have found photos of the statue on Wikipedia and Wikilok - such a shame we missed her as it's a great statue and I love the paddle for reaching in and out of the oven! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj633kmlbgEEn_v47jUYEuyFJPexgMlqSrULXxxqtJPz0m2wf3zjM-S8gx-r-_yaNUI03EYZSW1S25Db3T1cFeRYukJ9rJjcS9G6GcXnyJghmjejy7XI6kCRCSSvknk_wa_1uYR_EEUYINx/s1600/IMG_3903.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj633kmlbgEEn_v47jUYEuyFJPexgMlqSrULXxxqtJPz0m2wf3zjM-S8gx-r-_yaNUI03EYZSW1S25Db3T1cFeRYukJ9rJjcS9G6GcXnyJghmjejy7XI6kCRCSSvknk_wa_1uYR_EEUYINx/s320/IMG_3903.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is in Silleda and there are lots of options<br />
here, we had the most fantastic place with<br />
the MOST delicious food! </td></tr>
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The next stage of my journey would be to the monastery of Oseira - I was really excited as I had been looking forward to a monastery or convent stay for the whole of my Camino, but so many are closed. It seems like the traditional place to stay and I couldn't end the Levante route without having stayed in one! On my way to Cea I did find the following albergue info advertised - so for anyone looking, these might be of help to you. There are so many more than in the guidebooks and there were more still being built along the route, so it will be well serviced and it won't require such long distances between stages. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj667yQcZ5mLWHvM_FB7OLhQztpUpuxWJ0dnIO0rOwja9MdfZ42H9J-EiMdbNRNL3aT4aLkqeOYSIsbOWhvCpPcAFeqYD4agZMmZvnA2BdMT4ro0qqEwVgs7dpRufyQ8gwUBI2C9Yxe-ITy/s1600/IMG_3915.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj667yQcZ5mLWHvM_FB7OLhQztpUpuxWJ0dnIO0rOwja9MdfZ42H9J-EiMdbNRNL3aT4aLkqeOYSIsbOWhvCpPcAFeqYD4agZMmZvnA2BdMT4ro0qqEwVgs7dpRufyQ8gwUBI2C9Yxe-ITy/s320/IMG_3915.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-4810886420225980762019-08-23T05:07:00.001-07:002019-08-23T05:07:32.096-07:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW82w8Xsf07VqNvQtnpzwYPULnR-R_57RRyZ9-SNlcrInT1848q-363Whyvk2tG2UoAJLkl42uOUe6qO6NWxGyTwlUwjUjtwdNRQ1oPvlDUMWeSVcO5FILq2pUL8bzJlnvipKlyl31g3CA/s1600/IMG_7418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW82w8Xsf07VqNvQtnpzwYPULnR-R_57RRyZ9-SNlcrInT1848q-363Whyvk2tG2UoAJLkl42uOUe6qO6NWxGyTwlUwjUjtwdNRQ1oPvlDUMWeSVcO5FILq2pUL8bzJlnvipKlyl31g3CA/s200/IMG_7418.JPG" width="200" /></a><b>El Camino (Levante) Xunquiera de Arubia to the Poligono in Ourense and thence onto our Hotel which was right on the Camino route into central Ourense (approx 17 km). Final full day - Friday 20th April, 2018</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl4LK0Xkdu6Nnn-u1J4aCDJsU2esXTtg4nC4Z3VBwbC_tyaNEe5kjetW6p1R5zi803mJR1k5xHKCTnaYurYg2v3SjEEYyhW-R5UxqP3M5_GSsgLz1m4Uh7B2e3cmXuYdlMtkYT1czzl5AB/s1600/IMG_7420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl4LK0Xkdu6Nnn-u1J4aCDJsU2esXTtg4nC4Z3VBwbC_tyaNEe5kjetW6p1R5zi803mJR1k5xHKCTnaYurYg2v3SjEEYyhW-R5UxqP3M5_GSsgLz1m4Uh7B2e3cmXuYdlMtkYT1czzl5AB/s320/IMG_7420.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watch out for the slight diversion to take you off the busier<br />road and sharp bend. It takes a nice little detour on a prettier<br />route - go to the left of the barrier here and head down the hill</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh6CDrJcg5MseLWyhgWIg1Po9bIa3sEsRO0tdWVP_M6IwJ7PJ-zj-R0XfQz-cqltQxVM0mSbDm2esoBAmynQj_OyFqzjTdSwCTZE55CZsjikUNaZak0C_R1LkhM7gcjhrsDMXKnGUoUAvA/s1600/IMG_7421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh6CDrJcg5MseLWyhgWIg1Po9bIa3sEsRO0tdWVP_M6IwJ7PJ-zj-R0XfQz-cqltQxVM0mSbDm2esoBAmynQj_OyFqzjTdSwCTZE55CZsjikUNaZak0C_R1LkhM7gcjhrsDMXKnGUoUAvA/s200/IMG_7421.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The detoured route off the main road</td></tr>
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And so to the last full day of this particular section to the Camino. It stared with a beautiful and cool morning. The sun was due out but a haze kept the heat off, certainly for the first part of the morning. This was one of those sections that was a bit daunting for me as I really do not like waking on the road, especially if it is likely to be busy. Tar walking is very tiring on the feet and body and pretty demoralising. Despite this, the walk was actually remarkably peaceful. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGChuUGHGuVb10JInSeLz9cZgj6VRDZZlCwKer7y7ZLp7qBQs_bqebZpt7zjTL1WOAGDNMmEUpvCrnx7x4M2kP_WLDZ8cFjqmwsAzOmYR6lUGZI6bSggwvJPJDO7RPSq-9lnHtD9_7ltu0/s1600/IMG_7417.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGChuUGHGuVb10JInSeLz9cZgj6VRDZZlCwKer7y7ZLp7qBQs_bqebZpt7zjTL1WOAGDNMmEUpvCrnx7x4M2kP_WLDZ8cFjqmwsAzOmYR6lUGZI6bSggwvJPJDO7RPSq-9lnHtD9_7ltu0/s320/IMG_7417.JPG" width="320" /></a> The road was not busy all the time and although quite a few lorries use it - still all in relation to the railway construction - they were noisome but supportive - hooting loudly with thumbs up to all those walking the Camino. This is what the Camino is all about - or at least in part. There is a connection between people, a warmth and support - it feels nurturing even when walking alone. This echoed the sentiments offered by the elderly lady in the mountains earlier on the trip when she asked me the equivalent of was I walking "by myself" which is different (to her) from walking it "alone" saying "you are never alone, God is always with you". <br />
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About half way along the route is a fabulous little cafe where they also do sellos. On weather like the day held it was nice to sit outside and relax. The coffee was good and it provided some cool shade as the day heated up. Look out for Cafe Bar Manuel (no not that one!!)... A Peregrina was coming up behind me but she must have decided to stop as she never passed me. I seem to be first out today and stayed ahead - unusual for a change as usually I get overtaken which always amuses me as people thing I walk fast! I don't see the point of rushing - there are too many fascinating things to see and amazing views to take in, scenes to record and photographic memories to record. <br />
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Despite the routes starting to converge on Santiago, there are still not lots of pilgrims. Apart from spying the one near the cafe, I walked totally on my own today. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLKvqvyxwVIP0gTfu6ytMndCjncod8jLB-1omHh-UaSX0mywt2yqxpWZNq5FYCrAenfo5jeAwGsvS-iD6A4PRrA2ZP28YenYXsF26o8uXcyxWM4VtCTXTrBbFyaiKawkkYUDYDaPiDsyCi/s1600/IMG_7422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLKvqvyxwVIP0gTfu6ytMndCjncod8jLB-1omHh-UaSX0mywt2yqxpWZNq5FYCrAenfo5jeAwGsvS-iD6A4PRrA2ZP28YenYXsF26o8uXcyxWM4VtCTXTrBbFyaiKawkkYUDYDaPiDsyCi/s640/IMG_7422.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love these wonderfully cold fountains for both refreshment and cooling off - sweet and delicious spring water</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP2Oa6yX1DO6S3g7zoC6p4um_Pnv_sI2uulNcw8lX78HLqjUESGZrf5HqLmmt8KzGs1saOLuogW5d7OOJypWoWWIWlONNR_MI6U5ZrYnLXz0-EAreAVmt6Gb7T5JdHctghLRRmpcbQB6VI/s1600/IMG_7428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP2Oa6yX1DO6S3g7zoC6p4um_Pnv_sI2uulNcw8lX78HLqjUESGZrf5HqLmmt8KzGs1saOLuogW5d7OOJypWoWWIWlONNR_MI6U5ZrYnLXz0-EAreAVmt6Gb7T5JdHctghLRRmpcbQB6VI/s200/IMG_7428.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlauOUwkkfxMZFC9wB5hQWBwCwmbySucAko8fZaVzuyFmwq3QfT1hxb_119RI-hiSqd45Ju7SzxTmGbzby_FY-3beB7KqIWGn9ylfyX87VQxEpQ7YKh7-1pzn6NY5k8JgbCte4cWKrxv_t/s1600/IMG_7423.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlauOUwkkfxMZFC9wB5hQWBwCwmbySucAko8fZaVzuyFmwq3QfT1hxb_119RI-hiSqd45Ju7SzxTmGbzby_FY-3beB7KqIWGn9ylfyX87VQxEpQ7YKh7-1pzn6NY5k8JgbCte4cWKrxv_t/s200/IMG_7423.JPG" width="150" /></a>One diversion (which I added to the map) was to "San Xillou" (like Saint Gillou - the namesake or our favourite French character in Spiral)... It did have more wet and mud, but this time I managed to keep my shoes dry! I passed the East Tunnel Mouth and then a km later the West Tunnel Mouth of the new high speed rail link to Ourense. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-gtgm4FU65abiQ-BE-PziOi-o8O8MirlLozEXlus0PbTb9-ztdzgsc9AWvqgkqxqtkNCqK42sIdX6wiaClerSbDPQXZ_212URf9OXeQIjVBShKQbdlC4x4EP7dtZwMUMlR7gDZ1S8GJYM/s1600/IMG_7429.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-gtgm4FU65abiQ-BE-PziOi-o8O8MirlLozEXlus0PbTb9-ztdzgsc9AWvqgkqxqtkNCqK42sIdX6wiaClerSbDPQXZ_212URf9OXeQIjVBShKQbdlC4x4EP7dtZwMUMlR7gDZ1S8GJYM/s320/IMG_7429.JPG" width="320" /></a>There were some beautiful watering holes - such as that in the photograph above, with icy cold refreshing water. As I entered the outskirts of the city and countryside turned to town, the shell markers were laid as tiles in the centre of the pavements. Large yellow arrows were painted along walls or in the middle of roundabouts. The markers in Ourense, or certainly on the entry when heading to Santiago, are very clear - much better than many other cities I have passed through. Maybe this is because it is a main entry point for many who walk only the last 100km of the Camino and the fact that many routes converge here.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj69X4mL6R9ZQcpLKPYVIcZDY4zQRdvbOiL4PH_AEpclNJv54yd017ZH4aJxuS5kl1ah-s3o0H5KA_lTSGfc4qOVX-NbpwJghQLdxXHMiTOBNhe2tC4CMNDxhiWrObS0UYLa0mns6PG1wWl/s1600/IMG_7425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj69X4mL6R9ZQcpLKPYVIcZDY4zQRdvbOiL4PH_AEpclNJv54yd017ZH4aJxuS5kl1ah-s3o0H5KA_lTSGfc4qOVX-NbpwJghQLdxXHMiTOBNhe2tC4CMNDxhiWrObS0UYLa0mns6PG1wWl/s320/IMG_7425.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Life size cow statues - painted ceramics (?)</td></tr>
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There was one weird moment before reading the poligono - a house with a large field attached to it that had decided to go a bit "Milton Keynes" on the Spanish countryside... The cows you see in the picture are statues! Initially I had looked at them and not taken much heed, but as I passed I thought, that's weird, they seem remarkably still. Then.. hmm, they don't seem to have moved since I first noticed them?! <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6rOHj3sjgKf_0f0hZdYSdQdn4K1oJQ0OxL30EK_MtHTt7mEYCSiG73T-dxmuhlF-0iWOl3vrWEFzhk0T1yPC3sTS9Re0Ajv54uWaQZojhxeSkgVxdfQZwlS4R1afKmItSnhH5Sj-bRgQA/s1600/IMG_7430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6rOHj3sjgKf_0f0hZdYSdQdn4K1oJQ0OxL30EK_MtHTt7mEYCSiG73T-dxmuhlF-0iWOl3vrWEFzhk0T1yPC3sTS9Re0Ajv54uWaQZojhxeSkgVxdfQZwlS4R1afKmItSnhH5Sj-bRgQA/s200/IMG_7430.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our favourite pulperia!</td></tr>
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By the time I reached the industrial estate it was hot, hot hot and I did start to feel tired, flagging as my feet pounded the pavement and tarmac. On reaching the final hill up to the hotel the thermometer hit 31C, I much prefer walking in temperatures that do not exceed 28C! I couldn't believe that as I got closer the route actually passed right by our favourite restaurant - the pulperia! There, were the arrows and markers, clear when walking but which we has missed when visiting the bar to eat! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg21LHm4qjZgYHBSXWE0YikHK1Vw0p0HdMV5VUylGtcSG2XIMAXfbaQPPEWBiQIs3s-NPkHwuxORakCIlY78qdWESPOShevm701wDO70pXTOmy855HAqvFdL5RYx01EHijx8gXnQG3BD1lf/s1600/IMG_7432.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg21LHm4qjZgYHBSXWE0YikHK1Vw0p0HdMV5VUylGtcSG2XIMAXfbaQPPEWBiQIs3s-NPkHwuxORakCIlY78qdWESPOShevm701wDO70pXTOmy855HAqvFdL5RYx01EHijx8gXnQG3BD1lf/s200/IMG_7432.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Opposite the road where<br />we turn to our hotel and<br />starting point for the last 5km<br />into Ourense. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjgAMUSnw6JOk0AMWO7eNgT6OYdxC6RAF5qDdYvpCLGsYASOkki43MD9DhsuEO36CjZOJFY5_S12MNa5WXCtx-A15uDVJwxqKyAb3Q78Ff1Ylxsmm3kQKk5AfNkBZvpxTuv_A2X8CycG7V/s1600/IMG_7435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjgAMUSnw6JOk0AMWO7eNgT6OYdxC6RAF5qDdYvpCLGsYASOkki43MD9DhsuEO36CjZOJFY5_S12MNa5WXCtx-A15uDVJwxqKyAb3Q78Ff1Ylxsmm3kQKk5AfNkBZvpxTuv_A2X8CycG7V/s200/IMG_7435.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside the hotel - passport stamped<br />and Robertson Male with me</td></tr>
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To note, there is a great bar on the right just after the big round-a-bout just before you head up the hill toward the Pulperia (if you are in time to go in for lunch - do so!)... The bar sells caña for only €1.00 and provides sellos for Pilgrims. Missed that! I had decided to just do one at the hotel as it is only 200m from the Camino. After one last hot push, I reached the top and headed to our hotel - a quick change and then out to another of our local cafes for white wine, lunch and calamares.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge3lctZcQ94_cscHyONywWSMALZJGU7G41LPcmtKhOSHFOtIz3HrVBhyC0ZHagfC3rL_vGMmWmmp9U5MV5oZX6ZpXWGYlqxM7WFY5LIwxPuwd2Sg4O_Erm2xQkdO09FVN7dOYIGVo9S9PE/s1600/IMG_7431.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge3lctZcQ94_cscHyONywWSMALZJGU7G41LPcmtKhOSHFOtIz3HrVBhyC0ZHagfC3rL_vGMmWmmp9U5MV5oZX6ZpXWGYlqxM7WFY5LIwxPuwd2Sg4O_Erm2xQkdO09FVN7dOYIGVo9S9PE/s640/IMG_7431.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the top of the hill - 200m from the hotel - the Eurostars Auriense</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7WzLbvV-jUcfgg6cHKX9APUYOhHQ7BBAY-ZOndCu0UPQYpOFmd8mxaMLZ32HqCzpuIgojrMDWH-Mtxlmv8EHMysDMENwarWTgWNoY2bFOIqIrUe6RbxNk4VMi9mpv4QBkhqYH_S8C7sW4/s1600/IMG_7443.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7WzLbvV-jUcfgg6cHKX9APUYOhHQ7BBAY-ZOndCu0UPQYpOFmd8mxaMLZ32HqCzpuIgojrMDWH-Mtxlmv8EHMysDMENwarWTgWNoY2bFOIqIrUe6RbxNk4VMi9mpv4QBkhqYH_S8C7sW4/s200/IMG_7443.JPG" width="150" /></a></div>
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<b>El Camino (Levante) Hotel Eurostars Auriense to the Cathedral (the last 5km to the centre). Saturday 21st April, 2018</b><br />
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The feet were definitely a tad sore when I woke up in the morning - I think that 17km of pounding tar was a km too far, but I made it and today M joined me for his first walk since the first day after resting his foot. Also, the first time we have walked a committed distance together, deciding to take a taxi back to the hotel from the Cathedral. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1IF1ACAikz8SNlASzhe7VsaMuGGAERs63ANx3nL7vwwHQWJJ_pCU7HG9b-Yh8Y_jrDVvQoDI7pvoItGVclRe-Q3VkXMsOphJznPg3RC7En41BS2cZodzoYpOiIFr5YE4_P20dvyNFJJRS/s1600/IMG_7488.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="1344" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1IF1ACAikz8SNlASzhe7VsaMuGGAERs63ANx3nL7vwwHQWJJ_pCU7HG9b-Yh8Y_jrDVvQoDI7pvoItGVclRe-Q3VkXMsOphJznPg3RC7En41BS2cZodzoYpOiIFr5YE4_P20dvyNFJJRS/s200/IMG_7488.JPG" width="200" /></a>It was beautifully cool and dry with an astonishingly pretty walk into the city. Unexpected and therefore even more special. One of the "unexpected" delights was that of "Sex-Elbow" - actually Siexalbo and it's Panadería Roberto with a friendly and delightful baker - maybe Roberto?! He invites peregrinos in for their sello and no doubt realises that his pastries will be too enticing to resist! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheyKepBrL4oGAmcmE6CthApInDltB029ORwviAj8wxY2nQu0cFTkVYEohZC048JAkW4n-1RSwNiyeTilb27G3-LpEZv4IQrYMEW3e88gxMRBTYH9pg9faROBsHozQCBbaOfxIx_jkv9MbL/s1600/IMG_7452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheyKepBrL4oGAmcmE6CthApInDltB029ORwviAj8wxY2nQu0cFTkVYEohZC048JAkW4n-1RSwNiyeTilb27G3-LpEZv4IQrYMEW3e88gxMRBTYH9pg9faROBsHozQCBbaOfxIx_jkv9MbL/s320/IMG_7452.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Panadería Roberto welcomes pilgrims</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9LP8t9uUHAHQn-hmZe8enL5g6pJui6q1xVgR2m_mDv1lKmT_Oc5tXjhKDiIPmh2wLEtdA321CLW2Lhs-BaH_Ll2S-Ux495cfKGkqB0_tE02uwBnA-JoUsb17UAmRY7wiKZ35XziLec3th/s1600/IMG_7457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9LP8t9uUHAHQn-hmZe8enL5g6pJui6q1xVgR2m_mDv1lKmT_Oc5tXjhKDiIPmh2wLEtdA321CLW2Lhs-BaH_Ll2S-Ux495cfKGkqB0_tE02uwBnA-JoUsb17UAmRY7wiKZ35XziLec3th/s200/IMG_7457.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The aforementioned "divine"<br />pastry!</td></tr>
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The pastries are to die for! I had a little twist with chocolate on the outside and stuffed with a sort of caramel. Divine! Siexalbo itself is a beautiful old town, mostly restored to former glory and absolutely a place I would love to have a town house if I won the lottery! The area of Galicia, the food and Ourense itself are impressive and a real find, a little bit of relatively unexplored Spain perhaps, certainly by British tourists. <br />
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A frieze on one of the walls is of pilgrims pointing along the Camino showing the way into Ourense and then on, beyond to Santiago. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCep9FMcCL-izGPG73Xd_1sxUqyWgKg_5Plk-Epkg_y9nKBmXezwaSTNyJEZVQ5bRROErb1qJjrPkyLC06OVkcXcmJr5rLzjCfiKT1bu2qg_AQY-yg01P7Jl9R4mtoz-CwanEiX4VPqzI/s1600/IMG_7455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCep9FMcCL-izGPG73Xd_1sxUqyWgKg_5Plk-Epkg_y9nKBmXezwaSTNyJEZVQ5bRROErb1qJjrPkyLC06OVkcXcmJr5rLzjCfiKT1bu2qg_AQY-yg01P7Jl9R4mtoz-CwanEiX4VPqzI/s320/IMG_7455.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frieze pointing Pilgrims onward toward Santiago</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihcfVlRMNFQZOCd0VYb5FOqxbsGC_AZh3aHxGeqNTrZDnpMLFm6ptH4Zm3W9LcshSzDWfzYbIx4J6vurb3I6ApGwM-tujxmsb_RoiOCALxFmxZRqMXmoh_1a_61Z107g_totfCKdPReAep/s1600/IMG_7461.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihcfVlRMNFQZOCd0VYb5FOqxbsGC_AZh3aHxGeqNTrZDnpMLFm6ptH4Zm3W9LcshSzDWfzYbIx4J6vurb3I6ApGwM-tujxmsb_RoiOCALxFmxZRqMXmoh_1a_61Z107g_totfCKdPReAep/s200/IMG_7461.JPG" width="200" /></a>We passed by more huge and magnificent houses. One very imposing building had a "fuentes" of St James and a statue of Santiago himself. We thought the owners must be very pro-Camino and the house itself overlooks the route. <br />
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Be very careful around Santa Agueda! It is very easy to get lost here. As soon as you leave the main road, there is a left to take you down and then under a railway bridge. It goes behind the houses and the marker can be rather over grown. We ended up going some distance out of our way - and because markers can be a little more elusive in towns, we didn't question the fact we hadn't seen one for a while. We had to backtrack some distance in order to find it. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX9JThLTWaiZ9UsCx2cfKpwPNNag1lQ0LBaWgeBAlJJWowT3t4xfM9n16sqK49-9sSzR8T1xjvGfuKeGlXbpdrqEwsKF2nBoRPyIl_J9vm96USybTAGJMDpuV7UeQwBVPRNv1aab-57U5e/s1600/IMG_7466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX9JThLTWaiZ9UsCx2cfKpwPNNag1lQ0LBaWgeBAlJJWowT3t4xfM9n16sqK49-9sSzR8T1xjvGfuKeGlXbpdrqEwsKF2nBoRPyIl_J9vm96USybTAGJMDpuV7UeQwBVPRNv1aab-57U5e/s200/IMG_7466.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St James in the cathedral<br />in Ourense. </td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglAJ2OQmQRbfs2ru7NBFssEBGoMBNlp7fwECvNhxv5E35XkVFFPZVZqU5gHe-yzaWB-S0efH4E08srcfZ9e9auWem69H5qdK0qD-8Ez4xnx9LBnY1QJ2YGO_cFC8_5pvyUWCCvLWsGo6mf/s1600/IMG_7469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglAJ2OQmQRbfs2ru7NBFssEBGoMBNlp7fwECvNhxv5E35XkVFFPZVZqU5gHe-yzaWB-S0efH4E08srcfZ9e9auWem69H5qdK0qD-8Ez4xnx9LBnY1QJ2YGO_cFC8_5pvyUWCCvLWsGo6mf/s320/IMG_7469.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
The cathedral was magnificent with many references to St James. They are also one of the most welcoming cathedrals so far with concessions for pilgrims and happy to stamp the passport - €3.50 rather than €5.00 and that is still much less than the other cathedrals which, like the UK, charge more than one might expect!<br />
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The statue of St James in the cathedral is the "only" one to show him triumphing over evil with his sword. The portico (with St James) is apparently second only to the one in Santiago. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN2buY2OIsE9lmmhcKOOL5ocCqHRajrlEpX_sT1BIeQB46q-0Ek5tYoiBy6_5GObC2KTQh0NcvGZDEmcgLK4ifEYYyBypcgfi09fm2iOnLZ9n8HpWe3z7HwVQeVjRDXhVx1WbtwcGQ8oWE/s1600/IMG_7471.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN2buY2OIsE9lmmhcKOOL5ocCqHRajrlEpX_sT1BIeQB46q-0Ek5tYoiBy6_5GObC2KTQh0NcvGZDEmcgLK4ifEYYyBypcgfi09fm2iOnLZ9n8HpWe3z7HwVQeVjRDXhVx1WbtwcGQ8oWE/s200/IMG_7471.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With my sello and the<br />Robertson Mala outside<br />the cathedral</td></tr>
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The taxi back to the Eurostars was only €11.00 in April 2019 and the Eurostars Auriense was excellent value - allowing us to use one central location to walk this entire section and stay in comfort - only €465 for 10 nights for 2 people. The room was spacious and clean and very comfortable. <br />
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From the cathedral we decided to walk up to the Monastery of San Francisco which has an albergue. It has the most magnificent cloister (the third panorama below) but finding it can be confusing as the signs are not entirely clear and it is quite a hike from the cathedral! The sign seems to suggest you go all the way around the round-a-bout and exit eg as though leaving at 3 O'Clock if you enter at 6 O'Clock but in reality it is more like "go straight across"! <br />
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The first two panoramas that follow show the magnificence of Ourense Cathedral<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikJyNr-VpcsbCM5yXg5jBzsYQIyOKZrWc0LnWJeiJyeBmsyXs9EWfCTUSNmkbnAj1F10XwSZ7qYRrxMcTPc3q4dUj6m7DVeulucdot-iUJ8o8Onyc8uGqvUE-g6w4qRdKtQvJd33nuUAnq/s1600/IMG_7467.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="361" data-original-width="1600" height="144" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikJyNr-VpcsbCM5yXg5jBzsYQIyOKZrWc0LnWJeiJyeBmsyXs9EWfCTUSNmkbnAj1F10XwSZ7qYRrxMcTPc3q4dUj6m7DVeulucdot-iUJ8o8Onyc8uGqvUE-g6w4qRdKtQvJd33nuUAnq/s640/IMG_7467.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cloister of San Francisco Monastery - Ourense</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The end of this section of<br />the Camino - mala and sello<br />outside Ourense Cathedral</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Treating ourselves to a special meal out to celebrate - in<br />the lovely town of Allariz</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the restaurant in Allariz</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With a few hours to spare before our flight, we took lunch<br />out at the Faro (lighthouse) at A Coruńa. The ONLY<br />redeeming feature in this carbuncle of a town! </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beach just outside A Coruńa - about the only pretty sight<br />in this dreadful and godforsaken buboe of a town</td></tr>
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Before heading home we had some time to kill and went out to the lighthouse at A Coruńa on our way to the airport. Oh my word - what a horrendous town! I am sure it must have a high suicide rate - the buildings are depressing and just awful! Talk about concrete jungle with no character... I couldn't even bring myself to photograph it, it was so horrendous. The little bit of beach we found was the only redeeming feature! <br />
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Anyway, we did manage to find a pretty part of spend our last few hours before heading back to the UK and to plan for the final stage of the Camino. I really want to complete it in the autumn - my favourite time - so it's likely to be a whole year away (and a bit more) before we return to this beautiful province in Spain.<br />
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See you in Santiago! <br />
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Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-48941196597363018602019-08-22T14:04:00.003-07:002019-08-22T14:04:41.111-07:00<b>El Camino (Levante) Vilar de Barrio to Xunquiera de Arubia (approx 15.3km) also going a little further than planned as I had finished ahead of where I had originally planned my finish... Thursday 19th April, 2018</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRi4nZYAp2VDalwTLU7jDGarXBdii6G7CN8X_PEhDyt0ZKadkHJQJ5HFxxsFYHsRCRd6XSrObK_l0MLyODiOaVJJft5Uuq1xY6DwkX5g8O6wtPfCQhpJAr4-DhHcX3OaJlNwxfB8hlXSUo/s1600/IMG_7368.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRi4nZYAp2VDalwTLU7jDGarXBdii6G7CN8X_PEhDyt0ZKadkHJQJ5HFxxsFYHsRCRd6XSrObK_l0MLyODiOaVJJft5Uuq1xY6DwkX5g8O6wtPfCQhpJAr4-DhHcX3OaJlNwxfB8hlXSUo/s320/IMG_7368.JPG" width="320" /></a>Wow - what a fabulous walk! The best yet - for "pretty"ness and with interesting signs, places and history. Big houses, huge plots and extensions - most like for extended families. There were many big wash areas still in use. <br />
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It was a cool start to the day, with storms due later by around 19.00 but perfect walking temperatures for me in the morning. It got up to around 26C but with some cloud it was a very comfortable walking day. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFMyvTRC3lVItk9aqjoOhcg25vr_Qy9NODPYJHJZulVNqKr6icvANCY1H6TdXppabRQ0ag-VFV8zU56VH7eUO7PhIQQn4hoGu_N3NoutUVJorOYg8Bz1ODxznIwvF_cHMDXVhNpseYKv1-/s1600/IMG_7380.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFMyvTRC3lVItk9aqjoOhcg25vr_Qy9NODPYJHJZulVNqKr6icvANCY1H6TdXppabRQ0ag-VFV8zU56VH7eUO7PhIQQn4hoGu_N3NoutUVJorOYg8Bz1ODxznIwvF_cHMDXVhNpseYKv1-/s320/IMG_7380.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The flooded way continued for some distance!<br />No choice but to wade through... it doesn't look<br />it here, but it is much higher than the ankle part <br />of even "proper" hiking boots! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkCyqnkrewWVcQ8Z5i2hU_Fx3TMF4N4HSZMSkAR67SjPFM77yCpNC44aFYXgJwTT0DwKtRcFGJKTNFWpI9rUMSQ0Xgs0fIuFpL1Snio7qtBsfsjD_aJD8q5Q0zdbCFcRpvuyXRZMyUSFZG/s1600/IMG_7372.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkCyqnkrewWVcQ8Z5i2hU_Fx3TMF4N4HSZMSkAR67SjPFM77yCpNC44aFYXgJwTT0DwKtRcFGJKTNFWpI9rUMSQ0Xgs0fIuFpL1Snio7qtBsfsjD_aJD8q5Q0zdbCFcRpvuyXRZMyUSFZG/s200/IMG_7372.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bisom brooms - love them, made<br />by the local ladies and used for<br />sweeping outside their houses. <br />Reminded me of Flora making them<br />in RSA!</td></tr>
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There were many old paths and mostly the route is downhill or on the flat, a welcome break after the strenuous mountains of the last few days. There were so many pretty wooded ways between but the open flat and flooded plains for agriculture (including some delightful stagnant ditches!) reminded me of the way through Valencia many, many km ago! The worst of these flooded and stagnant ditches was just before Bobadilla. With all the rain it had gone across the path for a couple of hundred metres! Too dangerous to remove shoes incase of barbed wire, metal or sharp rocks in the path, I had to grit my teeth and just wade through! Even with proper high ankled walking boots, no one would get through here without getting wet feet. The flood was too deep to do anything other than wade through and it was way too boggy to go around the outside or there were thick hedges, deep ditches and crops preventing access to a way "around". <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqmVNaLmdZPRdvCNZRA92I_wNzC-Bavg15epA7Mg8IhcBGMqhed8MWK6vKhqF96rNLP_mFv8qhfAP6A6zhfVfc_zHrP6GIQOUbHsQXPGt17bYeHxvNbnxVhU2HqhLtGfe9NMFUREClQ323/s1600/IMG_7369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqmVNaLmdZPRdvCNZRA92I_wNzC-Bavg15epA7Mg8IhcBGMqhed8MWK6vKhqF96rNLP_mFv8qhfAP6A6zhfVfc_zHrP6GIQOUbHsQXPGt17bYeHxvNbnxVhU2HqhLtGfe9NMFUREClQ323/s320/IMG_7369.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amazing - had been wondering what these were as I passed<br />many in this area. Some collapsed and some still in use...<br />Hórreos (see info below)... storage areas for harvests, many<br />containing corn cobs. Basically on "huge" saddle stones!<br />Used to protect from rats etc.. some even contained chickens</td></tr>
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As I strode though the water was icy cold! Once one accepted that there was no option, that's all there was to it - grin and bear it, then it was a matter of just getting through, not worrying about it and planning to deal with it asap - hopefully at a bar in Bobadilla! I knew I had spare socks (always carried) extra "drying" non talc type talc. The worst part was actually the "squelch" once I had waded out the other side and which continued for several km before entering the village! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf9GcobTYwfcl_cFWQrxoZTn0LGm_3HIHEsVDnVr6yveTAiS5QmH39O0Ax_tfAzolgpT309sMKaK09YfdLR_oOkwMscSWhiamtN4R9E5m_JQdX0H938v5BcABsM122WWJhuKGU0QGgk8dt/s1600/IMG_7381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf9GcobTYwfcl_cFWQrxoZTn0LGm_3HIHEsVDnVr6yveTAiS5QmH39O0Ax_tfAzolgpT309sMKaK09YfdLR_oOkwMscSWhiamtN4R9E5m_JQdX0H938v5BcABsM122WWJhuKGU0QGgk8dt/s200/IMG_7381.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Think that is "actually" a<br />picture of me! </td></tr>
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As I entered Bobadilla (delighted to know there would be a pilgrim bar from the sign I had passed... there was another big wash place. This was situated opposite the bar which Michael had found and was waiting for me with news that there would be hot coffee and "plug" a roll to eat (like the bocadillo) while I changed my socks! The wash place had been in use just before I arrived - it's amazing these are still part of daily life here.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPMkmhV7nbV6EroVK_hIYd9dWck4849VZkt7xUC5x8Ev99q-megvflLlQL_YlcUwXW-f2M3G62tfktWuu6neAAZ8D69HLMvyCvbGgjz1aga2MF1oZr1hi8GPkhI3MVx_-yE8V-QoEQXH4M/s1600/IMG_7382.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPMkmhV7nbV6EroVK_hIYd9dWck4849VZkt7xUC5x8Ev99q-megvflLlQL_YlcUwXW-f2M3G62tfktWuu6neAAZ8D69HLMvyCvbGgjz1aga2MF1oZr1hi8GPkhI3MVx_-yE8V-QoEQXH4M/s320/IMG_7382.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I don't think I have ever been more pleased to see a Pilgrim<br />Bar... and it was open.. yay! </td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2HYunJqudrjfCPi1JxmwZkW33phnUIAv-zjhqsroDLM_YfcUrQ0eaKrb7JnEj6Hop1ct164jAeTnAH6xUQ5m0_DOzGhnJkxpb-8r0vet-MikeRsdrOzP7DeHqfonVEPnc9AIAq4x1iFxw/s1600/IMG_7374.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2HYunJqudrjfCPi1JxmwZkW33phnUIAv-zjhqsroDLM_YfcUrQ0eaKrb7JnEj6Hop1ct164jAeTnAH6xUQ5m0_DOzGhnJkxpb-8r0vet-MikeRsdrOzP7DeHqfonVEPnc9AIAq4x1iFxw/s200/IMG_7374.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old ploughs I think - hanging on the<br />wall of a building </td></tr>
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My plans for my shoes actually worked! I stuffed them with about a million paper towels while enjoying my coffee and plug, changed into my clean socks - I can not stress how valuable it is to carry lightweight, quick dry, hiking socks! It's worth carrying extra pairs if you are doing any long distance walking! Don't skimp on socks and it's well worth carrying the non-talc extra drying talc type stuff! It works for both damp and hot sweaty feet! Great for preventing blisters too and keeping the feet comfortable over the day. Also great against any hot "rash" from sweat that doesn't easily evaporate in the heat - especially in all those personal nooks and crannies including arm pits of course! Hmmm - the more intimate and less glamorous part of walking El Camino! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzcJcrkdEMHNvusPjH7s1gJQfCAJiRv_qLlsPG_v7JHknfyPjU9vkdELjq6wVoJmThpfYopT0ycC5KfZCcwZlm6crESDb43fjo3EtYLxVTQeSiqPWOcJd1Nv3me8TEbL9Xd8BYVlyXJ6PP/s1600/IMG_7375.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzcJcrkdEMHNvusPjH7s1gJQfCAJiRv_qLlsPG_v7JHknfyPjU9vkdELjq6wVoJmThpfYopT0ycC5KfZCcwZlm6crESDb43fjo3EtYLxVTQeSiqPWOcJd1Nv3me8TEbL9Xd8BYVlyXJ6PP/s320/IMG_7375.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another hórreo</td></tr>
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<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1oIabvVEV6t4StjDa4v_4XE1Dn355QQbwcvnMaHgy9ZLmnjR7NAYDsA-AQGBk9XRxRUaj9WL0lAMtnERk-CAl-wluciUaqwKXvE31yrrAIuVITGQNK423UdxKLO-TpVICq-bNGKTrRrTP/s1600/IMG_7376.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1oIabvVEV6t4StjDa4v_4XE1Dn355QQbwcvnMaHgy9ZLmnjR7NAYDsA-AQGBk9XRxRUaj9WL0lAMtnERk-CAl-wluciUaqwKXvE31yrrAIuVITGQNK423UdxKLO-TpVICq-bNGKTrRrTP/s200/IMG_7376.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hórreo with scallop directional<br />Camino sign</td></tr>
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Once changed into my socks, walking shoes dealt with having absorbed most of the excess water on the paper towels, I was fit to go again and actually, in the heat of the day and with that bit of time taken to care for both feet and shoes, they were pretty much dry at the end of the day's walking. I certainly didn't have any rubbing although the replacement socks were damp. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCNNxLyObb_VKaxdw74EvZRrXsewJJSr2GTGNqPj_d9R6-j42fB8XdAwt-7X3Ys-e81t8wZ69n8a9Wd3ahmb1hW04aR5gthuetObur3gDaFoSeluQvVcVojiXaDvA8VSXSemDIUalk3axy/s1600/IMG_7383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCNNxLyObb_VKaxdw74EvZRrXsewJJSr2GTGNqPj_d9R6-j42fB8XdAwt-7X3Ys-e81t8wZ69n8a9Wd3ahmb1hW04aR5gthuetObur3gDaFoSeluQvVcVojiXaDvA8VSXSemDIUalk3axy/s320/IMG_7383.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wash place outside the Pilgrim Bar</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWMljPmarWxOORcqbXYWgXC9hwDF7spt9ONufrCSSvALpu-2IyIBnAl8GPFQ9OSYGYgd9AI3JTKQIr7XI9G5AAZpR8D-XiNWy-8KDsRZ4TIZnkcHqu4fEszain1eQ9-Z0PgBfDnbc5yjUB/s1600/IMG_7385.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWMljPmarWxOORcqbXYWgXC9hwDF7spt9ONufrCSSvALpu-2IyIBnAl8GPFQ9OSYGYgd9AI3JTKQIr7XI9G5AAZpR8D-XiNWy-8KDsRZ4TIZnkcHqu4fEszain1eQ9-Z0PgBfDnbc5yjUB/s200/IMG_7385.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Think this was a well...?</td></tr>
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From here on it was simply beautiful. The ancient paths were a delight - old curb stones and an easy walking pace through trees. There was yet another old, but abandoned wash place as I left Padroso in the shade of a wood. It was a "double" washing area and I'm not sure that the panorama I took does it justice reproduced below. This was one of those ancient places, once somewhere women would gather and chat, exchange stories and news and socialise. Now, unless one is walking the Camino it will never be seen. That's one of the things I love about this walk - the many hidden pieces of history that are off the beaten track, totally off the tourist routes and special to those who choose to walk this way. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjROjMgVjfzgSt9p_sJBSAImcNqt1XqY-iWK4r5fBvA3ZRtkGQUyvcq-ItAvAFQaHlllV7wGC-IKDlDBS29qJVaXw-9wtH7pjDDJpiT-4bI5y9_xyrLSXSVJ60iVKGqaFFbnQwoeYjGoVpP/s1600/IMG_7386.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjROjMgVjfzgSt9p_sJBSAImcNqt1XqY-iWK4r5fBvA3ZRtkGQUyvcq-ItAvAFQaHlllV7wGC-IKDlDBS29qJVaXw-9wtH7pjDDJpiT-4bI5y9_xyrLSXSVJ60iVKGqaFFbnQwoeYjGoVpP/s400/IMG_7386.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More accommodation for anyone looking - not listed in the guide book</td></tr>
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<br />
<b><u>A little about Hórreos</u></b><br />
From Wikipedia... The oldest document containing a reference to them is apparently from the 13th Century...<br />
<br /><div style="caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-top: 0.5em;">
An <b>hórreo</b> is a typical <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Granary" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Granary">granary</a> from the northwest of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iberian_Peninsula" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Iberian Peninsula">Iberian Peninsula</a> (mainly <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galicia_(Spain)" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Galicia (Spain)">Galicia</a>, where it might be called a <b>Galician granary</b>, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asturias" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Asturias">Asturias</a> and <a class="mw-redirect" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northern_Portugal" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Northern Portugal">Northern Portugal</a>), built in wood or stone, raised from the ground by pillars (<i>pegollos</i> in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asturian_language" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Asturian language">Asturian</a>, <i>esteos</i> in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galician_language" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Galician language">Galician</a>, <i>espigueiros</i> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portuguese_language" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Portuguese language">Portuguese</a>, <i>abearriak</i> in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basque_language" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Basque language">Basque</a>) ending in flat <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Staddle_stones" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Staddle stones">staddle stones</a> (<i>vira-ratos</i> in Galician, <i>mueles</i> or <i>tornarratos</i> in Asturian, or <i>zubiluzea</i> in Basque) to prevent access by <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rodent" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Rodent">rodents</a>. Ventilation is allowed by the slits in its walls. Similar buildings (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barn" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Barn">barns</a>) on staddle stones are found in Southern England.</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiueZszPcT4Rhd1e_LTmW_RmqhvyDN1nyGHHNeLJNHpLNX4F-TxRBKK_ZPi-rTb_zdI4PeHbxxSyat6U7WFlN9lw9PZN2X0UAmVnvAEO9Y6xt3EREFecV9RLZeo1MmsEYaVmKpMMFqCPn8J/s1600/IMG_7391.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiueZszPcT4Rhd1e_LTmW_RmqhvyDN1nyGHHNeLJNHpLNX4F-TxRBKK_ZPi-rTb_zdI4PeHbxxSyat6U7WFlN9lw9PZN2X0UAmVnvAEO9Y6xt3EREFecV9RLZeo1MmsEYaVmKpMMFqCPn8J/s200/IMG_7391.JPG" width="200" /></a><i style="caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">Hórreos</i><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> are mainly found in the Northwest of Spain (</span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galicia_(Spain)" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-decoration: none;" title="Galicia (Spain)">Galicia</a><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> and </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asturias" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-decoration: none;" title="Asturias">Asturias</a><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">) and </span><a class="mw-redirect" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northern_Portugal" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-decoration: none;" title="Northern Portugal">Northern Portugal</a><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">. There are two main types of </span><i style="caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">hórreo</i><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">, </span><a class="mw-redirect" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rectangular" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-decoration: none;" title="Rectangular">rectangular</a><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">-shaped, the more extended, usually found in Galicia and coastal areas of Asturias; and </span><a class="mw-redirect" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Square_(geometry)" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-decoration: none;" title="Square (geometry)">square</a><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">-shaped </span><i style="caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">hórreos</i><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> from </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asturias" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-decoration: none;" title="Asturias">Asturias</a><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">, </span><a class="mw-redirect" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le%C3%B3n_province" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-decoration: none;" title="León province">León</a><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">, western </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cantabria" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-decoration: none;" title="Cantabria">Cantabria</a><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;"> and eastern </span><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galicia_(Spain)" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; text-decoration: none;" title="Galicia (Spain)">Galicia</a><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px;">.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMAnitNmhPe27f6OHkjNDto9XMA7xP23nP7-kd-B7zTHbecPCto_s-AAYvdzdrgw6QH50XLhnxMIhDiMnFN2tSf4pjcDmSAMIntpgWSAXCevqREiCjPOURCo_CRvlson2bgYRmH7E_l-Ks/s1600/IMG_7387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMAnitNmhPe27f6OHkjNDto9XMA7xP23nP7-kd-B7zTHbecPCto_s-AAYvdzdrgw6QH50XLhnxMIhDiMnFN2tSf4pjcDmSAMIntpgWSAXCevqREiCjPOURCo_CRvlson2bgYRmH7E_l-Ks/s200/IMG_7387.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Route to the hidden wash area</td></tr>
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<div style="caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-top: 0.5em;">
There are several types of Asturian <i>hórreo</i>, according to the characteristics of the roof (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thatching" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Thatching">thatched</a>, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tile" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Tile">tiled</a>, slate, pitched or double pitched), the materials used for the pillars or the decoration. The oldest still standing date from the 15th century, and even nowadays they are built ex novo. There are an estimated 18,000 <i>hórreos</i> and <i>paneras</i>in Asturias, some are poorly preserved but there is a growing awareness from owners and authorities to maintain them in good shape.</div>
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The longest <i>hórreo</i> in Galicia is located in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnota" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Carnota">Carnota</a>, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Province_of_A_Coru%C3%B1a" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Province of A Coruña">A Coruña</a> and is 35 m long.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmCnflUoT6ziKGm_FYpLf_tuQDKq8VjokLR2rdp7eCzKVbHkNkMtfChWT96naCrJyM1FpbycBrLwmhatHWrtXEzFxbaYmqiCq61r00f80GtaMPOb9uf0eyNUoDr5eNkslahLI7WCuvgrlu/s1600/IMG_7389.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmCnflUoT6ziKGm_FYpLf_tuQDKq8VjokLR2rdp7eCzKVbHkNkMtfChWT96naCrJyM1FpbycBrLwmhatHWrtXEzFxbaYmqiCq61r00f80GtaMPOb9uf0eyNUoDr5eNkslahLI7WCuvgrlu/s320/IMG_7389.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just loved today's walk</td></tr>
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<div style="caret-color: rgb(34, 34, 34); color: #222222; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: inherit; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-top: 0.5em;">
Other similar granary structures include <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asturian_language" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Asturian language">Asturian</a> <i>paneras</i> (basically, big <i>hórreos</i> with more than four pillars), <i>cabaceiras</i> (Galician round basketwork <i>hórreo</i>), <i>trojes</i> or <i>trojs</i> in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castile_(historical_region)" style="background-image: none; color: #0b0080; text-decoration: none;" title="Castile (historical region)">Castile</a> or silos.</div>
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(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hórreo)</div>
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<br /></div>
Many of the hórreos had crosses on them (I am guessing this was for blessing/protection of the crop inside) and some were highly decorated.<br />
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Almost every house seems to have one and apparently there is a growing awareness that they should be protected. Some have wood slats and others terracotta - I assumed in order to allow the air to circulate so that the crop did not get mildew or rot. I think this is due to a longer damp season here and to the many floods! In the UK I discovered when walking Hadrian's Wall that in the north of England, the barns are build with what look like many long slits or elongated pigeon holes in the walls - this too was to air the crop inside in a much wetter northern climate. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZmSq2xzd3fk174ZTBMBTOYgrHfpyhxTmbT1D0Imcs1_Kow22otxU1vJbsKuAGLrNGx1aoeyCDWpGObPMqq716eBQLQCNQbe42VZ0IWwf11GvvgGKHQim7Q820c2y8DTa3NKg0VeRaUabm/s1600/IMG_7392.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="549" data-original-width="1600" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZmSq2xzd3fk174ZTBMBTOYgrHfpyhxTmbT1D0Imcs1_Kow22otxU1vJbsKuAGLrNGx1aoeyCDWpGObPMqq716eBQLQCNQbe42VZ0IWwf11GvvgGKHQim7Q820c2y8DTa3NKg0VeRaUabm/s640/IMG_7392.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Panoram of the double lavadera - wash area... it has actually come out much better than I thought!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwwzoDgs9TqKKQXhexmXpcjeFO-OesJjymTZyF5CpoyxK0hmd0U7nny4R2EW367mJGJoL4QZs5Hhb9-7cjofepoQpT9HZYP5Tu5ICwpXYb6dGlUAdHFBHhcrvJR6car6d-YswKm-HK2y3b/s1600/IMG_7394.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwwzoDgs9TqKKQXhexmXpcjeFO-OesJjymTZyF5CpoyxK0hmd0U7nny4R2EW367mJGJoL4QZs5Hhb9-7cjofepoQpT9HZYP5Tu5ICwpXYb6dGlUAdHFBHhcrvJR6car6d-YswKm-HK2y3b/s200/IMG_7394.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9eo5j1QWjY06gmhHO9uE8AlCaE-0nO5GQECA9MHdZ8Ktd6fFYDhhCeAEZcSYvsNEX-gIlwyg1Ta_fKucgjcTODHD9Dj18Yxg7TWbkg8JQVcporPF04LFRYNZNe4E8pH4Ed2M4YYC7Xqur/s1600/IMG_7393.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9eo5j1QWjY06gmhHO9uE8AlCaE-0nO5GQECA9MHdZ8Ktd6fFYDhhCeAEZcSYvsNEX-gIlwyg1Ta_fKucgjcTODHD9Dj18Yxg7TWbkg8JQVcporPF04LFRYNZNe4E8pH4Ed2M4YYC7Xqur/s320/IMG_7393.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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The photos capture a little better how delightful the walk was today and surprisingly "free" from peregrinos! We are definitely getting to the business end of the Camino - often people only walk the last 100km, plus many of the routes converge (as shown on the sign with the fingerpost)... so more and more pilgrims start to come together as they near Santiago. It's one reason why I would like to finish mine in the autumn - not only as it is one of my favourite times for walking in Spain, but I am hopeful that there may perhaps be a few less pilgrims on route. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh1W-_dgRudtMQ-cVOpS-nkNBqD_5UUoH4OhstwxMu289d1HHbmOeM5Zs6_umtaWgKeS6e6ZzmIB8ys8umowQ8kD0kym2ESYkpINCC6nvWUeQMCio2iAE-qPso-Quk8ga0xkyqLidydmXG/s1600/IMG_7395.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1600" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh1W-_dgRudtMQ-cVOpS-nkNBqD_5UUoH4OhstwxMu289d1HHbmOeM5Zs6_umtaWgKeS6e6ZzmIB8ys8umowQ8kD0kym2ESYkpINCC6nvWUeQMCio2iAE-qPso-Quk8ga0xkyqLidydmXG/s640/IMG_7395.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another panorama of today's stunning walk - and a great directional rock, one of the "artist' stones/carvings along the<br />Galician route. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3KfDuwZJPAE1a7MJW3sIn46v8-28MxfMPmcstFJ1TXh0usAJzy5OFDcOXiWCKbMa52UDTpBRkQB4vPE4W8TihaAKOxmCvyFdv4jodYrsfUboIRVHGJ0mgSAG_WQeG_sXBSgJzFp1X8GKs/s1600/IMG_7396.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3KfDuwZJPAE1a7MJW3sIn46v8-28MxfMPmcstFJ1TXh0usAJzy5OFDcOXiWCKbMa52UDTpBRkQB4vPE4W8TihaAKOxmCvyFdv4jodYrsfUboIRVHGJ0mgSAG_WQeG_sXBSgJzFp1X8GKs/s320/IMG_7396.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close up of the artists route marker</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-YcI9WDBlX6d5C7rmV6Cx-2rJ9MlMbw3INLxf3OxjQhjsoMB9-X6y8rTppGBaKhARhgBJF1mz8PQ8UairHUKukQq_RV9iYY66NMZ0aHP_D7jdDl37VuChRX5tcBBd6UbnDEuym0OMWBuz/s1600/IMG_7390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-YcI9WDBlX6d5C7rmV6Cx-2rJ9MlMbw3INLxf3OxjQhjsoMB9-X6y8rTppGBaKhARhgBJF1mz8PQ8UairHUKukQq_RV9iYY66NMZ0aHP_D7jdDl37VuChRX5tcBBd6UbnDEuym0OMWBuz/s200/IMG_7390.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caminos coming together</td></tr>
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It's quite amazing that we are so close to the final 100km of this camino that started so long ago! <br />
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The final descent to Ourense marks quite a significant end to this particular trip and heralds the final stage is just in sight. I headed down, down, deeper and down for two whole days and the flat lands of the plains of the Rio Miño that runs through Ourense. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7LI3VgplwEQsP47Axwm9CfA7NbPk1nTycFQGU30-ruAGbxUilfVEduiEnliEEFEviPTpBLvLo3DBqRtcwEn37ffpF1Hqwrn0g5Y-Hy7Zpa7io64FsstPAXozdgmhWc22PcyFOhXDVwG91/s1600/IMG_7399.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7LI3VgplwEQsP47Axwm9CfA7NbPk1nTycFQGU30-ruAGbxUilfVEduiEnliEEFEviPTpBLvLo3DBqRtcwEn37ffpF1Hqwrn0g5Y-Hy7Zpa7io64FsstPAXozdgmhWc22PcyFOhXDVwG91/s200/IMG_7399.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiii2FKWY6iovujcIpb9i0VEPmmCbNnsfdxu23EkK-6gJ34Jtpt_ty2S4AFWVrh4kD6TFH4upOq2TuSCmFP5mnjJYlkQ224EXPMmRiOU4iQWfNcL6uwAycfnIW30pDDG9x2HliqZLxvzUBY/s1600/IMG_7398.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiii2FKWY6iovujcIpb9i0VEPmmCbNnsfdxu23EkK-6gJ34Jtpt_ty2S4AFWVrh4kD6TFH4upOq2TuSCmFP5mnjJYlkQ224EXPMmRiOU4iQWfNcL6uwAycfnIW30pDDG9x2HliqZLxvzUBY/s320/IMG_7398.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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The photo of me with the carved St James (one of the artistic markers on the Galician route is similar to the one at A Canda where I started the camino this time. I later saw another in Xunquiera, with a yellow painted finger on a pointing hand - also pictured below. That was quite amusing! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhintUgtSTo8GJv-mdntVhVdIIsRUHgY7cUd0vQd2Z7Rw2ABRVbXBOebyHCGUoA3ySZ1SGt3I_tZtW6A8P2m4SrUBXcMZyJiZu-C1_02h4pMmBZPj07Uw3V9Z4c5mdfVaLUtszHyloL8MW6/s1600/IMG_7400.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhintUgtSTo8GJv-mdntVhVdIIsRUHgY7cUd0vQd2Z7Rw2ABRVbXBOebyHCGUoA3ySZ1SGt3I_tZtW6A8P2m4SrUBXcMZyJiZu-C1_02h4pMmBZPj07Uw3V9Z4c5mdfVaLUtszHyloL8MW6/s320/IMG_7400.JPG" width="320" /></a>There was a perfect end to a hot day in Xunquiera with an ice cold caña. A bearded peregrino also sat next to us - glad of a beer. He wished me Buen Camino and looked hard and wiry - like he has walked many caminos and probably has just done the entire Levante (or other route that joins it) in one hit! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_lYbbAB8prcW_JJCCRBjT0sFuLr3XS88y1ZNpic5ozQrXQMtF_nirJmicDU5gFCf7rCG1hHjpDfUNwS5ni34CPqp8bowtuczvi_8Ydqvp2uEJSDUyPU1avaZw7jbDolONx2mUVxvmUGmw/s1600/IMG_7402.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_lYbbAB8prcW_JJCCRBjT0sFuLr3XS88y1ZNpic5ozQrXQMtF_nirJmicDU5gFCf7rCG1hHjpDfUNwS5ni34CPqp8bowtuczvi_8Ydqvp2uEJSDUyPU1avaZw7jbDolONx2mUVxvmUGmw/s320/IMG_7402.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I just LOVED this part of the walk today</td></tr>
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Ha briefly left his beer, trustingly, to nip to the Spar and came back with provisions. As I set off he was on a bench having lunch and an old guy leaving his walking stick next to him was in a full spate of an argument with a house jacketed older lady! The peregrino continued to eat, almost oblivious! He was obviously in the right moment and frame of mind from his camino! A little distance from the arguing pair was another person - just standing by observing, I assume for the pure entertainment of it all. It was quite fascinating and of course very "latin". I initially thought she was part of it - but after a while she left, wishing the couple "¡allegria!" (enjoy!) I would love to know what it was about - young flossy and an affair? Grandchildren in a Romeo and Juliet affair?...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl2cIkn_qT4Er_f8SrS629rjK8xK01EvUDyo2QlKwSKYg3JYu1T3Jtvw5CO-Mk8aEC_Peqr0opakAt1iaF3xYjfAtjQOuLsCrMFNiMQphC2W0e1mrCDdHWA9JvOBHr8FCrlwvSJLCAFW0B/s1600/IMG_7403.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl2cIkn_qT4Er_f8SrS629rjK8xK01EvUDyo2QlKwSKYg3JYu1T3Jtvw5CO-Mk8aEC_Peqr0opakAt1iaF3xYjfAtjQOuLsCrMFNiMQphC2W0e1mrCDdHWA9JvOBHr8FCrlwvSJLCAFW0B/s200/IMG_7403.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I can't quite believe that there<br />is a suggestion to find an<br />albergue in Allariz! We were<br />to go there later, but it is a little<br />way off the camino! </td></tr>
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Knowing a decent amount of Spanish means you get so much more from your walk, however, a heated, passionate argument at top speed takes some understanding! I did pick out the choices sear words though - haha!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwH291ZgfV5t8EG2Rv5dLpFgz4ToC2ujv0f3yar3Hdx49WKKSyJIBMBCPPpgF2NyjVPpk-5kH3TWunlk9Hr6WiAlrLI8nJ2QOnAX_-DOOL4WwDD_Ie5ZpyxaxX-gxqlLV7f89Q-l-Wl1w7/s1600/IMG_7404.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwH291ZgfV5t8EG2Rv5dLpFgz4ToC2ujv0f3yar3Hdx49WKKSyJIBMBCPPpgF2NyjVPpk-5kH3TWunlk9Hr6WiAlrLI8nJ2QOnAX_-DOOL4WwDD_Ie5ZpyxaxX-gxqlLV7f89Q-l-Wl1w7/s320/IMG_7404.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here he is - St James again, part of the same artist's<br />route markers for Galicia</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">bench - taken specially for Jayne</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-awWDK3LnCGr7lNVEiiZqsdUQqiUXVlhbQcO8VkbCOg5ZG3K965G1-SdYFBwm9MUCf_cA_jTlmww9sSUwHS9WCiyAGlozqUnAHT9rMA55z3-D8pZmYZOj5O5iQYpQTOcOeEHMDDMj5__a/s1600/IMG_7407.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="733" data-original-width="1600" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-awWDK3LnCGr7lNVEiiZqsdUQqiUXVlhbQcO8VkbCOg5ZG3K965G1-SdYFBwm9MUCf_cA_jTlmww9sSUwHS9WCiyAGlozqUnAHT9rMA55z3-D8pZmYZOj5O5iQYpQTOcOeEHMDDMj5__a/s400/IMG_7407.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering into Xunquiera</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhih9RaUFHjzMi3ZrO5OHcMVEt0YjcQB1sxeVR5qu6r-ycSCV0H0od9SIkP9xbLLGfXrPwXSzKgJTTgVcdP49xcxDUpmV2GGtUN-hk5jrWu7u23b3vakBTQpodM3kTvgX5gu_MCd2RKqVnY/s1600/IMG_7409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhih9RaUFHjzMi3ZrO5OHcMVEt0YjcQB1sxeVR5qu6r-ycSCV0H0od9SIkP9xbLLGfXrPwXSzKgJTTgVcdP49xcxDUpmV2GGtUN-hk5jrWu7u23b3vakBTQpodM3kTvgX5gu_MCd2RKqVnY/s400/IMG_7409.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St James with his yellow pointy finger! </td></tr>
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We decided we wanted something to eat and headed out toward Allariz although we didn't know that that is where we were going to end up. Wow - what a find and what super tapas. Definitely worth the diversion and we parked next to a beautiful convent at the top of the square. The tapas we found at a heavenly local bar was delicious with a lovely barman who served us crisp white wine, croquettes, bocorones (one of our favourites) and squid - called chiperones in Galicia.<br />
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I would thoroughly recommend it - Cafe Bar Cultural Roi Xordo - Praza dos Mesóns s/n, 32660 Allariz, Ourense.<br />
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We also found an asador advertised on our search for a bar for lunch, they roast to order and so we put in a request for conejo so that we could have a room picnic. We had found them (Pita Pita - por encargo) via directions from wonderful warm and friendly locals going us directions. After ordering we headed off to get salad and a bottle of red to add to our picnic before returning to the asador to pick up our rabbit. The menu was mouthwatering and I'd love to try all they had to offer - in particular the picantones and cordonice.<br />
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Perfect day - perfect walk, perfect tapas, great people, perfect dinner. <br />
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<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-35898125348951549532019-08-21T15:02:00.001-07:002019-08-26T15:20:52.062-07:00<b>El Camino (Levante) Ourense day off and then Soutelo Verde to Vilar de Barrio (approx 12km) and taking me a bit further than the planned Laza to Boquieros as I had headed on a bit from Laza... Tuesday 17th and Wednesday 18th April, 2018</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipEITDrG6dDFhuLxRXHMF83EEzk_wclt1IF7lCZvK5g55SSFYgEmG3fuw77kAg1nda5IBYTq4WzIcvYLufIRfj8HTZGCoYCLcnNHrhDS3m-URCusBRe9brj18tX9sMyhQFTFKeyPcQoqLs/s1600/IMG_7297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipEITDrG6dDFhuLxRXHMF83EEzk_wclt1IF7lCZvK5g55SSFYgEmG3fuw77kAg1nda5IBYTq4WzIcvYLufIRfj8HTZGCoYCLcnNHrhDS3m-URCusBRe9brj18tX9sMyhQFTFKeyPcQoqLs/s320/IMG_7297.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_TRxnYFJrGGUTW9F7keyOtDUBFEz_rKduswCYrmri4H4sOkItUTffrLuGnvkKDuK0DTfLbm8azhhyphenhyphenI38A0hPUClbdf8upCjnMiwChVwbvN8qoCverBQLXLA0jCbiLc15brpOUm3urxP3o/s1600/IMG_7298.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_TRxnYFJrGGUTW9F7keyOtDUBFEz_rKduswCYrmri4H4sOkItUTffrLuGnvkKDuK0DTfLbm8azhhyphenhyphenI38A0hPUClbdf8upCjnMiwChVwbvN8qoCverBQLXLA0jCbiLc15brpOUm3urxP3o/s200/IMG_7298.JPG" width="150" /></a>Ourense Cathedral is 5 Euros to enter so we will do this on my official arrival into Ourense on the last day and in order to get my credential stamped. Ourense is lovely and a fairly small and easy to navigate city. We found a lovely square in which to have a breakfast of coffee and tostadas on our day off.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgibGe2R26OL81vOJ2BwGYrUijlwABV6H-zNrhK5ygou3JuYlc7fwQsXdY7Czj09g_HynBRLjYusCl5pqF6OHRg-HbNsmQpM_JXyOMjE6TLj7p3B6HgrnVJw-2Wf-PhKBApDX9AHM3xf4tJ/s1600/IMG_7300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgibGe2R26OL81vOJ2BwGYrUijlwABV6H-zNrhK5ygou3JuYlc7fwQsXdY7Czj09g_HynBRLjYusCl5pqF6OHRg-HbNsmQpM_JXyOMjE6TLj7p3B6HgrnVJw-2Wf-PhKBApDX9AHM3xf4tJ/s200/IMG_7300.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our breakfast cafe</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmRo_XDRlwenRx35QYwrGn_NcWr-Avm-VFrhUpR7W2TVgnZYKtO9GSSdQ0EbP0FC4a5SmUpfjvW7ztrkuhNujmQJvmJDhaZilVmLcpDhyphenhyphenLbWG7j_S3h4Vw89zM2d21PJezJ-sy1_I2XpGR/s1600/IMG_7299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmRo_XDRlwenRx35QYwrGn_NcWr-Avm-VFrhUpR7W2TVgnZYKtO9GSSdQ0EbP0FC4a5SmUpfjvW7ztrkuhNujmQJvmJDhaZilVmLcpDhyphenhyphenLbWG7j_S3h4Vw89zM2d21PJezJ-sy1_I2XpGR/s320/IMG_7299.JPG" width="240" /></a>We hoped to visit the museum but after walking all around the outside and finding a man who said he would take us there (he took us to a gallery instead but must have thought that is what we meant... because the museum is closed)... we eventually found a small sign that said it was closed and some reviews on Google which explained that this had been the case for some time! Such a shame as the windows to it looked promising - but the dead leaves gathering there should have given us the hint! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXQMUIFGjE9A4cIGNK6p4LZqT8PSPoL_8zWuN0KtcMcQY4GsEen2RQaeRhU6ZzJwwqImmaOYVzDAWvAx6H7aR250jcSfRJjVty1ITjKI8dB0iY9z-NLxmScOhc62soo8iMa3C7F9SNyvqh/s1600/IMG_7301.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXQMUIFGjE9A4cIGNK6p4LZqT8PSPoL_8zWuN0KtcMcQY4GsEen2RQaeRhU6ZzJwwqImmaOYVzDAWvAx6H7aR250jcSfRJjVty1ITjKI8dB0iY9z-NLxmScOhc62soo8iMa3C7F9SNyvqh/s200/IMG_7301.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuBAg0RiweD7IwOlqdeC3D1dPRtpSfzLyIwYvqd2NVEX-xuj0Yg3hZSUERLSS7dRwP7Vq9R7hap23a8ibvuH18L3XlPg52LJApnzRplN2LES4MptmFaizWghbsfpbf5gFR5pj7kgeZvTx7/s1600/IMG_7302.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuBAg0RiweD7IwOlqdeC3D1dPRtpSfzLyIwYvqd2NVEX-xuj0Yg3hZSUERLSS7dRwP7Vq9R7hap23a8ibvuH18L3XlPg52LJApnzRplN2LES4MptmFaizWghbsfpbf5gFR5pj7kgeZvTx7/s320/IMG_7302.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love these plazas mayor</td></tr>
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For those wanting to learn a bit more about he fascination of walking the camino and also maybe why it is now as popular, if not more so, than in the Middle Ages (prior to the Black Death that is!)... check out this nice blog...<br />
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<a href="https://www.eyeonspain.com/blogs/bestofspain/18481/who-was-santiago.aspx">https://www.eyeonspain.com/blogs/bestofspain/18481/who-was-santiago.aspx</a><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhixEfANmTfo5_ITYFNZh7O8JGGe4KFfYmPmxxIivs967OpavvM8DR-qlOeSFZ4BSqos4y0nLEiZJ-BHzJaKLt4Eu5CAdRqFOz3dOQDrOMNPSBjeoi33uZdL6SeYMVDnWtPDsX6hVdCvKk2/s1600/IMG_7307.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1344" data-original-width="760" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhixEfANmTfo5_ITYFNZh7O8JGGe4KFfYmPmxxIivs967OpavvM8DR-qlOeSFZ4BSqos4y0nLEiZJ-BHzJaKLt4Eu5CAdRqFOz3dOQDrOMNPSBjeoi33uZdL6SeYMVDnWtPDsX6hVdCvKk2/s320/IMG_7307.JPG" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love the old streets in Spain and<br />
architecture</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYe4XjV0ix11LPvtojVTITbj5JpbQe1hPzk3cNZC6hwfqQELwJbj0hoa9_qE53WyYs1pPA9o2J7zu4w3TLFlPFGVGHRnROdhUuCQNzkZBbsUlxqDJP1inGJ_fXvrg1PmmPNWk0wrP6ek9s/s1600/IMG_7303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYe4XjV0ix11LPvtojVTITbj5JpbQe1hPzk3cNZC6hwfqQELwJbj0hoa9_qE53WyYs1pPA9o2J7zu4w3TLFlPFGVGHRnROdhUuCQNzkZBbsUlxqDJP1inGJ_fXvrg1PmmPNWk0wrP6ek9s/s200/IMG_7303.JPG" width="150" /></a>We started the day in a nice little bar with a barman who charged "quadre euros" (small differences in words being in Galicia where they speak Galega)... for a cafe con leche and tostada. We had some good wanderings, looking at the architecture and finally found Decathlon to purchase some more hiking and fitsteps tops. It wasn't the largest or best Decathlon but they had some great things - including some perfect winter walking, windproof long sleeved tops - not only great for Autumn/Winter Camino walking but also for dog walking and the horsemanship clinics. The back part is longer and covers the tail bone!<br />
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We had a fabulous and relaxing time at the thermal pools - well worth the visit! Gosh, they ARE hot and certainly a tad sulphurous ;-). There are places where people could picnic along the river and where there are free public pools that can be enjoyed. The sun was glorious and lots of families were picnicking there with the children. There are great views of some fine houses on the opposite side of the river - they offer great views of the river (very fast flowing after all the meltwater flowing down from the mountains) and hot pools. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB14WaxEEopJO9WCB17bArDj_qL6srN19kgucHRUmt0NiEOiuvo8SAwTHc7O2zNG9vjSzD0pLkJhdhpOuBufQkV7WZmmxsJTVEhEJeK9uprwCOxMNJD1QNyZQ_IBgEz8XbvsHgnPc2Qy0U/s1600/IMG_7304.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB14WaxEEopJO9WCB17bArDj_qL6srN19kgucHRUmt0NiEOiuvo8SAwTHc7O2zNG9vjSzD0pLkJhdhpOuBufQkV7WZmmxsJTVEhEJeK9uprwCOxMNJD1QNyZQ_IBgEz8XbvsHgnPc2Qy0U/s320/IMG_7304.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plaza Mayor - they all have one. This was particularly lovely<br />
with a slope on it where mums took their children to play on<br />
their scooters... they entertained us for ages</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It's definitely worth going private - we paid only 5 Euros to enter the Zen one and 3 Euros to rent flip flops and a towel. You have to fill out a health questionnaire to make sure you take responsibility for keeling over in the heat along with emergency phone numbers. The place is very clean and well kept and it's 100% worth it for the 1.5 hours you can spend in there. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdD-0W8mGdoDJoF9KDdPEwGQBljfyhMzMHulFwUQqsMI5n5Dijr5UnuXojuO5mog7RQyuFJbyjG_qXSS2aFol2LFG5nnrI80WGOe47JikxJMiJwbwLHki_tjsLlvnVLVlb4ZYBLnjgREMA/s1600/IMG_7305.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdD-0W8mGdoDJoF9KDdPEwGQBljfyhMzMHulFwUQqsMI5n5Dijr5UnuXojuO5mog7RQyuFJbyjG_qXSS2aFol2LFG5nnrI80WGOe47JikxJMiJwbwLHki_tjsLlvnVLVlb4ZYBLnjgREMA/s200/IMG_7305.JPG" width="200" /></a>The idea is to have 15 mins of hot and 1 min of cool, but it's hard to do it! Mostly we stayed in the warm ones and many people propped themselves on rocks to chat. It's easy to see how it would have been sociable in Roman times to go to hot springs/public baths and chat and catch up with events. The Spanish seemed to have the catlike lounging off to a fine art, but I just fell off - rather like our cat Ril when she would slip off the back of the sofa once she fell asleep! <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq0oli2bNGEDJjkAbDOXwuz9sjWA-gsL349btf7YO_ZQ8Qn2do6fiRUxxHFadfY_Hwtq-HCwl0ptj1eo1U7_ovNA4XKicF3ZY7mZrh1WEq1YOr_N0v6dVKjoouHEXu_8WVzTE4-7M68zr0/s1600/IMG_7309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq0oli2bNGEDJjkAbDOXwuz9sjWA-gsL349btf7YO_ZQ8Qn2do6fiRUxxHFadfY_Hwtq-HCwl0ptj1eo1U7_ovNA4XKicF3ZY7mZrh1WEq1YOr_N0v6dVKjoouHEXu_8WVzTE4-7M68zr0/s200/IMG_7309.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View along the river through Ourense</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiheIQtPcih65azmett6-bo1TVSnL6BpCOK5ZFejTR8PdaecLEZ9lk9IKyloxzu4tBf3AyEnpTCgZ0EV_-IJmIDM3hkoSg5H2fgbEW9PdF_fNo6eRfAJoE12sguCfz2rDSH1ptGsqzUnaQc/s1600/IMG_7306.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiheIQtPcih65azmett6-bo1TVSnL6BpCOK5ZFejTR8PdaecLEZ9lk9IKyloxzu4tBf3AyEnpTCgZ0EV_-IJmIDM3hkoSg5H2fgbEW9PdF_fNo6eRfAJoE12sguCfz2rDSH1ptGsqzUnaQc/s200/IMG_7306.JPG" width="150" /></a>Of the 1.5 hours you have 15 mins either side to get changed, enter, exit and so on and there is a nice cafe to chill in or have a cold beer afterwards. When we finished we headed back to the hotel for a snooze and later to the Pulperia - our favourite restaurant that we already want to go back to on our next trip. It has THE most fantastic octopus and langoustines, bread - garlic and buttery perfectly complimenting the salty and sweet meat - de-lic-i-ous!!! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm30p0LRkFETCLZwZL5YGrn2-IqIvix6auJFYi9CkjFF47uT774lfoTxZRiBGFLKIXwLc2VhwqW71IjUCVVPVCxUfKbGlyegvZwXb2QjYdVG7wCXvt077PIUfQJIUbY8G5Ike2MXRw28Ai/s1600/IMG_7315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm30p0LRkFETCLZwZL5YGrn2-IqIvix6auJFYi9CkjFF47uT774lfoTxZRiBGFLKIXwLc2VhwqW71IjUCVVPVCxUfKbGlyegvZwXb2QjYdVG7wCXvt077PIUfQJIUbY8G5Ike2MXRw28Ai/s200/IMG_7315.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whale sculpture in the river</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbsIRrKZsmLUrx5WU8UGiuQTjCRNL80PKLxXHaZP91J2cvoQnTM-wnYEIe2ARrB4S8ba-Iqxm2WNDFpopVAfU28d_96TfylensJ6xL7bJkk0QpSjNGbq3wiovXK1MADPUktp5b5qJTdR-i/s1600/IMG_7316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbsIRrKZsmLUrx5WU8UGiuQTjCRNL80PKLxXHaZP91J2cvoQnTM-wnYEIe2ARrB4S8ba-Iqxm2WNDFpopVAfU28d_96TfylensJ6xL7bJkk0QpSjNGbq3wiovXK1MADPUktp5b5qJTdR-i/s200/IMG_7316.JPG" width="200" /></a>We also had the "chiperones" - fried squid and M had scallops, we had to keep a shell of course! Small and cute. Sadly his foot was really bad and very painful. It appears it might be Gout from some medication he has been taking, such a shame as it means he can't do any walking to meet up with me and I can't believe how amazing he has been keeping driving!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWcCwbmtjlZzzNA610WqC5zv94mzaig5S9Y9wVWBI4e4XiU8EgEhcieC2FVyQI1TINxONtml8c-jVBr1kQ7WQ3YrXORGoc1Eqc4UjPOuTQkn8j8GOZ4UbfxoxNwU8ZcFavn5X2vkApCsqM/s1600/IMG_7317.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWcCwbmtjlZzzNA610WqC5zv94mzaig5S9Y9wVWBI4e4XiU8EgEhcieC2FVyQI1TINxONtml8c-jVBr1kQ7WQ3YrXORGoc1Eqc4UjPOuTQkn8j8GOZ4UbfxoxNwU8ZcFavn5X2vkApCsqM/s320/IMG_7317.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bridge which will be my starting point for the final leg<br />
of my personal Camino next time.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiys8kzmTcrSEkYTivepZYhruHIVVkIxhfXDojJ4wpaQB9aZPpkYlv9kxpyOV32HIe-C2tpuhg-Aunlpup9uWZxjFUwCUhblsacl2fOsfKbl_6dxCvcPh3DhtaQSibJqcT_XqeHEhjL1_uz/s1600/IMG_7320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiys8kzmTcrSEkYTivepZYhruHIVVkIxhfXDojJ4wpaQB9aZPpkYlv9kxpyOV32HIe-C2tpuhg-Aunlpup9uWZxjFUwCUhblsacl2fOsfKbl_6dxCvcPh3DhtaQSibJqcT_XqeHEhjL1_uz/s320/IMG_7320.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The delicious mini scallops!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMFiWNs2U1mKOxCbYWHW4APxHM9dY-rol5T5CZONPWLLK-Dv9QL96JubZxlrKW5cG63CbMrKgK8CWhvGWq54ZavcG0wM5_VZsfuoFNftAmKj5mlk8atG6fikjlUGvkJvCgbUBpkCVRhSY2/s1600/IMG_7319.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMFiWNs2U1mKOxCbYWHW4APxHM9dY-rol5T5CZONPWLLK-Dv9QL96JubZxlrKW5cG63CbMrKgK8CWhvGWq54ZavcG0wM5_VZsfuoFNftAmKj5mlk8atG6fikjlUGvkJvCgbUBpkCVRhSY2/s320/IMG_7319.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside our favourite pulperia</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo-EV0cFimLGsbEWNms-jk4hxGWPTxmAkzKOeBF9GHPvw93LZCVOlRZoBiCxCiuQnePbh_FE5NMkFnjatAYEnG37BaR4_TrvR589TcQY69F0elhntl-uO5_aQWI9FDrKt8b7joYd_sIT-t/s1600/IMG_7321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo-EV0cFimLGsbEWNms-jk4hxGWPTxmAkzKOeBF9GHPvw93LZCVOlRZoBiCxCiuQnePbh_FE5NMkFnjatAYEnG37BaR4_TrvR589TcQY69F0elhntl-uO5_aQWI9FDrKt8b7joYd_sIT-t/s200/IMG_7321.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning start - along the valley<br />
before the "BIG" climb</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Heading out for the walk, considered the steepest climb over the shortest distance on this Camino - 800m in only 3km. It was slow going but I'm glad I started early as it was tough going and the first part was completed in the cooler part of the day. As it got hotter it slowed me further. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPnrmIMuuIRuu9q2VLtSiYiCMZelHeHSRAt7WjUpIBxWY745aAfgmW1GyGzDYQv7PyJ4BgKlr3ltSRh8xTczzNAuS8M17-AD3gWcSwTOtHeT6nD6R5Lkbmu6XIY1nxAQiV_fgLUR7TgiVB/s1600/IMG_7327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPnrmIMuuIRuu9q2VLtSiYiCMZelHeHSRAt7WjUpIBxWY745aAfgmW1GyGzDYQv7PyJ4BgKlr3ltSRh8xTczzNAuS8M17-AD3gWcSwTOtHeT6nD6R5Lkbmu6XIY1nxAQiV_fgLUR7TgiVB/s320/IMG_7327.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioagK4PRX-0w-UWn8tYBe2h-uxh64QcRO-kXXfl6F1UPn33TQ-qUUsapt-R3VXZb2P3ylc3lShDmAY-TeCrXgWVzX6he0_Nz4itqW6FYgMR9BigvR2L_QHERwuISlrmZbBpF1wZU-ls67D/s1600/IMG_7323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioagK4PRX-0w-UWn8tYBe2h-uxh64QcRO-kXXfl6F1UPn33TQ-qUUsapt-R3VXZb2P3ylc3lShDmAY-TeCrXgWVzX6he0_Nz4itqW6FYgMR9BigvR2L_QHERwuISlrmZbBpF1wZU-ls67D/s200/IMG_7323.JPG" width="200" /></a>It took 20 mins just to get to the start point, which of course lost me a bit of "cool" time. The guidebook, ever optimistic and perhaps basing the timing on those Pilgrims who seem to use the Camino as a route march - suggests it will take an hour. I however, took 1 and 3/4 hours. I do like to stop, photograph things and admire the view, but nevertheless I didn't rush and was never going to do it in less than that. I had estimated 3 hours so I guess I did well - although arriving at the top I was concerned that Michael had missed me or we had miscommunicated my stopping point. As it turned out, he had been on a long trip sorting out his foot, getting injections and medications. The Spanish health centres in the local towns and villages are amazing, fast and don't mess about. They are so helpful and the care was fabulous. Thank goodness for the EHIC card... heaven help us after Brexit with all that it threatens. Bloody ridiculous. Britain could learn a thing or two from Spain - and the NHS could certainly take some tips from the Spanish system. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbrLmLUzHfEdF81j0ur6hVzLAZi7y91LualJzrGAWP4iMKWEZB8cgCXKKL1bf9eXV3NDBPo_G6iQtuEt0hycWKQBuzXge_fsyRvT6pxJrd9unHUYyasoghHQfjqN2Y9GVcfRrRtERr2zrW/s1600/IMG_7328.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbrLmLUzHfEdF81j0ur6hVzLAZi7y91LualJzrGAWP4iMKWEZB8cgCXKKL1bf9eXV3NDBPo_G6iQtuEt0hycWKQBuzXge_fsyRvT6pxJrd9unHUYyasoghHQfjqN2Y9GVcfRrRtERr2zrW/s640/IMG_7328.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spectacular views back towards the valley where I started in the morning. The heat was just starting to make itself felt</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiYLhSa2QcUrAhQ43wOjNPj6FGcS6gBFGxQJjdWL-PSbbvG1RjmZraXNruIsjxVxqy5QGF1ocS8QBQm961DY_IuBiIrQdMAbCSaecXu4rFKPxcnXi0bd4oqhQDacCls_DtFOPerqls6_bO/s1600/IMG_7330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiYLhSa2QcUrAhQ43wOjNPj6FGcS6gBFGxQJjdWL-PSbbvG1RjmZraXNruIsjxVxqy5QGF1ocS8QBQm961DY_IuBiIrQdMAbCSaecXu4rFKPxcnXi0bd4oqhQDacCls_DtFOPerqls6_bO/s200/IMG_7330.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The elevation of the walk<br />
today</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Xd05k-4fhnEKS79HzBxiDuC5FRerIHqVmdrZODtayVSdFoy8SbC8t0oMjmG8xGA6ERY7F9FewCtbc9DCv8WjLkCeBQyhKTfyWQjgQu6tIq2XxElJHjy9lJQQbSWKrngJv8iGEAUxj1es/s1600/IMG_7331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Xd05k-4fhnEKS79HzBxiDuC5FRerIHqVmdrZODtayVSdFoy8SbC8t0oMjmG8xGA6ERY7F9FewCtbc9DCv8WjLkCeBQyhKTfyWQjgQu6tIq2XxElJHjy9lJQQbSWKrngJv8iGEAUxj1es/s200/IMG_7331.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pine cone arrow!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The scary thing as I climbed up through the pine forests was the number of processionary caterpillars "processing"! I had never seen them like this. Millions of them, long lines making their way from one tree to another like some weird alien invasion. I had a quick rest in the shade at one point, a drink to keep hydrated and a quick wee - but in the middle of a bend in the main path. I was rather nervous about this as I hoped no one was coming (!!) but I had no intention of sitting on caterpillars! As they release their hairs under stress, I thought that being "wee'd" on might constitute stress for a caterpillar! I also felt pretty nervous walking beneath so many nests and the long lines of the creatures making their way up or down a tree. Falling hairs can cause irritation and respiratory problems. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkffFTA-YD3ORxDoNiMhRsAltJf8dM97uttgh7kjcd2OmByo5_8tPf0G3NkTlxpCLpNRclgZGKrQsJF5hvsSm_8pCQ-ra7Z8SUWE2Ra6XovRY2EtDaEhTd_8Tb-nLSyDX0ORaPPOKIdaPk/s1600/IMG_7332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkffFTA-YD3ORxDoNiMhRsAltJf8dM97uttgh7kjcd2OmByo5_8tPf0G3NkTlxpCLpNRclgZGKrQsJF5hvsSm_8pCQ-ra7Z8SUWE2Ra6XovRY2EtDaEhTd_8Tb-nLSyDX0ORaPPOKIdaPk/s200/IMG_7332.JPG" width="200" /></a>The birds were amazing and in particular the resonance of the hammering woodpecker and the haunting call of the cuckoo. Alongside these I caught what seemed to be the occasional chatter of voices, but when I listened they disappeared. I wondered if I may have imagined them as no one appeared and on and upwards I continued. Just as I reached the top, finally coming out onto level ground and the roadway where I was due to meet Michael, 2 nice German peregrinos appeared. I must have caught their floating voices as I climbed - amazing how they can carry! <br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilWhdGNf-Si4ZMbK8dUjG8ZRW8P-8-AT8MrmdGE2QzQwklrDTnDuDE-q5X2sTXAaZaGOvBZY-_Uclsprxvdmtacev9ulqhHzghS3d2AXt4Xc3xPBxjLnP5Z1fkO9rn7q3UBrkLHohVJMzv/s1600/IMG_7333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilWhdGNf-Si4ZMbK8dUjG8ZRW8P-8-AT8MrmdGE2QzQwklrDTnDuDE-q5X2sTXAaZaGOvBZY-_Uclsprxvdmtacev9ulqhHzghS3d2AXt4Xc3xPBxjLnP5Z1fkO9rn7q3UBrkLHohVJMzv/s400/IMG_7333.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The amazing bar, great coffee and where many pilgrims<br />
stop for a break... here you can take scallop shell and write<br />
your name/purpose/where you are from and hang it<br />
on the wall. It is stunning with thousands of shells creating<br />
a kind of grotto - truly beautiful. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As on previous occasions there had been wonderful arrows marking the way - although usually these appear when the route is somewhat ambiguous. On this occasion the arrows were made of pine cones and were in the middle of obvious tracks, just for the sake of making them. Thank you as always to those who have the energy and enthusiasm to make these markers. They are truly lovely and inspiring. Maybe this is the reason some peregrinos stop to build them - to encourage others who might be finding the route a little challenging. I wondered if those who created the pine cone arrows were the same as those who had made the smiley man/stick figure I had seen in the mountains earlier on my route. <br />
<br />
I sat by the road at the allotted meeting point - although as mentioned previously, it took some time for M to arrive and I did begin to wonder if (a) he was OK or (b) we had miscommunicated out rendezvous point! I sat and enjoyed the sunshine and my "muy crujiente" salt and honey nuts while awaiting his arrival. Several more peregrinos passed me as I sat waiting and we passed a pleasant word or two as they regained their breath at the top before heading on towards the route "down" and to the plains. <br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTofsI9OPLJ7arv15n3CycMrScXlbYbkNRMMm5lZvsLKEhtp2BxVDJ6qVhI2JruSsJgZYehwgQophvve6vhT8UrAPStNctH08FLQJPheQ6Ee7N5QTmf7-mERHDKVJ-MpNEtpMbU1jiYecD/s1600/IMG_7335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTofsI9OPLJ7arv15n3CycMrScXlbYbkNRMMm5lZvsLKEhtp2BxVDJ6qVhI2JruSsJgZYehwgQophvve6vhT8UrAPStNctH08FLQJPheQ6Ee7N5QTmf7-mERHDKVJ-MpNEtpMbU1jiYecD/s320/IMG_7335.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My scallop shell - with tribute to the Robertson Mala - also<br />
pictured</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Once M arrived I took the car 2 minutes along the busy main road to the start of the marked camino path heading downhill and arranged our next meeting point. At this next point there was an astonishing bar bedecked with scallop shells from pilgrims from all over the world. <br />
<br />
It was vibrant with peregrinos who had stopped for a cold beer, cafe con leche or other cold beverage. The coffee, which was wonderful and HUGE, was only 1.50 Euro!! When I wrote out my shell I also made a "donativo" (donation) for a pin and wrote in the victors book about the mala, the mala prayers and about bringing it from South Africa. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhli63BW-XxBu0QEZQrAE6s28aMrVWTzO37eyxtp-XthcFTft-_eMGiwblXnGIvfZxNTNOSp7nt7zLs8IRskzpVKbEZPZx0Ii4kXt1eVSA_3y0vISR-WDKosrFyuzOlXRuYDnekcatWW5I_/s1600/IMG_7338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhli63BW-XxBu0QEZQrAE6s28aMrVWTzO37eyxtp-XthcFTft-_eMGiwblXnGIvfZxNTNOSp7nt7zLs8IRskzpVKbEZPZx0Ii4kXt1eVSA_3y0vISR-WDKosrFyuzOlXRuYDnekcatWW5I_/s320/IMG_7338.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wooden cross with the kind German <br />
gentleman just heading around the back past the sign</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitM-mr3KigtuZxua9PagUrKlfAtBam43_6vjDMzlFFuGJEjh4VdHJ7feMt5M7IqiEfrl8LQPpdyG6cavNxQqIy0lLvUQuka_iQmgmsP9uvVhTiLD2fIn4-vZ4kDwVW8FlXVOwEzWPFJiEy/s1600/IMG_7336.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitM-mr3KigtuZxua9PagUrKlfAtBam43_6vjDMzlFFuGJEjh4VdHJ7feMt5M7IqiEfrl8LQPpdyG6cavNxQqIy0lLvUQuka_iQmgmsP9uvVhTiLD2fIn4-vZ4kDwVW8FlXVOwEzWPFJiEy/s200/IMG_7336.JPG" width="200" /></a>As I headed on along a beautiful path the temperature crept up to 30C and by the time I arrived in Vilar de Barrio, the bar was heaving with many escaping the heat and eating hungrily after the long walk. I was mostly just very thirsty and happy to cool off but still enjoyed a pasta/pork dish with a drink - it was huge and for two of us the total came to 10 Euros!<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtmi9arTBaMPoz6UCugG3gW3G-a2bh9dy4M2s1dbvYftwPa40iLhuaDOR4O2KIFVUSmddpsYV8sv-aqXtcg7iyjMjf1OnJbCgtvqWURoYJdkUZ8VQF9d8O_wWC69WpJE-DBA67pSaoqdRR/s1600/IMG_7354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtmi9arTBaMPoz6UCugG3gW3G-a2bh9dy4M2s1dbvYftwPa40iLhuaDOR4O2KIFVUSmddpsYV8sv-aqXtcg7iyjMjf1OnJbCgtvqWURoYJdkUZ8VQF9d8O_wWC69WpJE-DBA67pSaoqdRR/s320/IMG_7354.JPG" width="320" /></a>I had met another lone German on the route who had kindly offered to take my photo with the large wooden cross which is a land mark on this part of the route. I said that it was OK and I didn't need him to take it - because I didn't want to put him to any trouble - but I should have really, he seemed very nice and I wasn't sure that he understood I didn't mean offence. I saw him later heading out after lunch and another lone Germany lady who had been chatting to the two other Germans. She had swapped to hiking sandals and was obviously struggling a little with one foot. I hope she managed to ease into it especially as she looked to be heading to the next village right in the middle of the heat of the day! I was glad to be finishing and was definitely ready to take a break and rest of the day.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTkxRZTzn8vMLcZLrewgzK9JHYcTqOsYz4AYHkyMrOfXA7LT5RbHrN913sBZGDMgidyjowXmbb1FyVGolsaNi01ZXnel35uUofhKy-z8M6yIZo-LUNqa4P7H2N-DleT-fUP8z-1-hQdkLq/s1600/IMG_7337.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTkxRZTzn8vMLcZLrewgzK9JHYcTqOsYz4AYHkyMrOfXA7LT5RbHrN913sBZGDMgidyjowXmbb1FyVGolsaNi01ZXnel35uUofhKy-z8M6yIZo-LUNqa4P7H2N-DleT-fUP8z-1-hQdkLq/s200/IMG_7337.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pretty route into Vilar de Barrio</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The route in had been stunning - an enormous granite bench, various scallop markers and arrows, fun pilgrims' boots "planted" with things and with scallop shells to decorate. There was also a lovely old village wash area which was still in use - I saw the soap suds still floating but Michael had seen the lady using it and then pegging her washing on the wire fence to dry. <br />
<br />
There follows a number of pictures taken of this lovely route into the town and some information containing details of accommodation that isn't mentioned in the guide book, hopefully helpful to other pilgrims. It was a pretty end to an amazing day. <br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSO9T1f-zYpTHYE04H6xkgaR2e0fd-0gOraIstx-X8bXdJHYnXEBEiE-AzcHdmEY7a5IfFqnwu231RagqtQ3Q8RmMrF8WP8ztlLjHhpty5WVDKCB-IG81llaP5AgNBaYqs-NkefPoWYJ-X/s1600/IMG_7340.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSO9T1f-zYpTHYE04H6xkgaR2e0fd-0gOraIstx-X8bXdJHYnXEBEiE-AzcHdmEY7a5IfFqnwu231RagqtQ3Q8RmMrF8WP8ztlLjHhpty5WVDKCB-IG81llaP5AgNBaYqs-NkefPoWYJ-X/s320/IMG_7340.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More of the route into Vilar de Barrio</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYbED9__37fq-6OMp657W-ss7yDth2jJpYyt4aQXYUrBYCsYA8bPYD1luvS7cJviDGFhKOf8wo0IALIHpzMxyXZFMYt2Mi7uaw1tMRJcCANwsy52VeMA5_nl3X6pFBKYdl6OXqw-SNuFm3/s1600/IMG_7342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYbED9__37fq-6OMp657W-ss7yDth2jJpYyt4aQXYUrBYCsYA8bPYD1luvS7cJviDGFhKOf8wo0IALIHpzMxyXZFMYt2Mi7uaw1tMRJcCANwsy52VeMA5_nl3X6pFBKYdl6OXqw-SNuFm3/s320/IMG_7342.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Accomodation ahead</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij3iwrnS9M-Xj9lOmSI9GCyn17mM4g7lmFaA7yEEnujcDFxHcoLrT2lVldiIEpHss5WkOZQ-nGR7o63j9__-Zk6CBgGt98xdTsXgblL1jg-F2HOKSLTifbGHe9lfypYGFMVfICdYfK432g/s1600/IMG_7343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij3iwrnS9M-Xj9lOmSI9GCyn17mM4g7lmFaA7yEEnujcDFxHcoLrT2lVldiIEpHss5WkOZQ-nGR7o63j9__-Zk6CBgGt98xdTsXgblL1jg-F2HOKSLTifbGHe9lfypYGFMVfICdYfK432g/s320/IMG_7343.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBR-LQmbZY9tmB019GrdNsaNAweHdOkQWp1Fi0GTa78vt8TOQjV7PZ8OMU-I8wG4Ko4oqmqXvIoGTSOZLprS1yAVAYE-y0Yp08aJt6BFYAdH9Jcda1doRAHzgtdm7bv2cy9EOAaicpMBF_/s1600/IMG_7344.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBR-LQmbZY9tmB019GrdNsaNAweHdOkQWp1Fi0GTa78vt8TOQjV7PZ8OMU-I8wG4Ko4oqmqXvIoGTSOZLprS1yAVAYE-y0Yp08aJt6BFYAdH9Jcda1doRAHzgtdm7bv2cy9EOAaicpMBF_/s200/IMG_7344.JPG" width="200" /></a>Just loved the pretty scenery on the way into the town. The enormous granite bench and seats had to be included for my friend Jayne who loves to find seats and benches along all our hiking routes in England.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijQqypefRWEiYRFN3WGJCKyAF1rwZhOwA-HOVMGjOG1L5OOW_2zqdtrVBBUYtedkrDT9SLMQjrXUPZQGH506ckSZmUFA1OutUIi2oF1eEMzg5eog3x6-tIk8kIw3ztB4mwjMnf4qulVDnB/s1600/IMG_7346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijQqypefRWEiYRFN3WGJCKyAF1rwZhOwA-HOVMGjOG1L5OOW_2zqdtrVBBUYtedkrDT9SLMQjrXUPZQGH506ckSZmUFA1OutUIi2oF1eEMzg5eog3x6-tIk8kIw3ztB4mwjMnf4qulVDnB/s320/IMG_7346.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To Santiago I go... and indeed I do!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim9AFVjU24K3dIQxOERrnp9xzWZ3PWpva-DFPR2-QPeVlctxSNrgzCISKAMjg5twEP2YOsrn7hDMo-WuR9H0tKa9d182eha48blLwzSyheHJoWz7cTPrYhk2j7hZ2C_oFSaqxCPC7V1Dro/s1600/IMG_7345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim9AFVjU24K3dIQxOERrnp9xzWZ3PWpva-DFPR2-QPeVlctxSNrgzCISKAMjg5twEP2YOsrn7hDMo-WuR9H0tKa9d182eha48blLwzSyheHJoWz7cTPrYhk2j7hZ2C_oFSaqxCPC7V1Dro/s320/IMG_7345.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdSVC-Rqu43IQIO1ahta4D5u8-Lo3hdrCGrBMez88102jLrGnIoSXXNdq_gaGDg8wqxHS0aVim1T_PUcbGQvFbhzxqQt1ckECr3WO4AApkHbn6PDJ9E6TbElgMkkB11nKwm4P3kAKLRdPm/s1600/IMG_7351.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdSVC-Rqu43IQIO1ahta4D5u8-Lo3hdrCGrBMez88102jLrGnIoSXXNdq_gaGDg8wqxHS0aVim1T_PUcbGQvFbhzxqQt1ckECr3WO4AApkHbn6PDJ9E6TbElgMkkB11nKwm4P3kAKLRdPm/s320/IMG_7351.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More accommodation....</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyKP-rKtZ69r8h6tHWAAKEycRHXJVUnscaK6QTGxBvRpymxXV1PoePBjxVkxGcqmwdOnQbyJv2RP4094S10S8pzvJgurgfok4tWqARcWQlVN5eESLPA3sd4aohNrLnT-otHLtXLI4X2k8q/s1600/IMG_7350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyKP-rKtZ69r8h6tHWAAKEycRHXJVUnscaK6QTGxBvRpymxXV1PoePBjxVkxGcqmwdOnQbyJv2RP4094S10S8pzvJgurgfok4tWqARcWQlVN5eESLPA3sd4aohNrLnT-otHLtXLI4X2k8q/s200/IMG_7350.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikyEbEHcBtJW79CRYC0YyCE9k_JbHv_JYJSGO1IjS302oZC2cJNrlCH05AzTt5vaTL6dChHKl85Ufl6Dh6rZRyYzoz05VfBNQkHEdo5qtpeq3diCDzlW54AvdlBQtY6jQVC-5FdaSj1j1j/s1600/IMG_7353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikyEbEHcBtJW79CRYC0YyCE9k_JbHv_JYJSGO1IjS302oZC2cJNrlCH05AzTt5vaTL6dChHKl85Ufl6Dh6rZRyYzoz05VfBNQkHEdo5qtpeq3diCDzlW54AvdlBQtY6jQVC-5FdaSj1j1j/s320/IMG_7353.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2w0vLt_6reOeODN_mLmFIYU7c3KYYccpyanLZGeWAjIETN6AXVoUEHzVY3pijdNnpy-sDsnp6hOB20X1uo684xClFhxQqCnLu9Ox0JlZt3F4Qqhh7-yXauHMZy8b4LSEHXbKXHhBzDi_b/s1600/IMG_7355.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2w0vLt_6reOeODN_mLmFIYU7c3KYYccpyanLZGeWAjIETN6AXVoUEHzVY3pijdNnpy-sDsnp6hOB20X1uo684xClFhxQqCnLu9Ox0JlZt3F4Qqhh7-yXauHMZy8b4LSEHXbKXHhBzDi_b/s200/IMG_7355.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-16017374181506602412018-07-23T03:51:00.003-07:002018-07-23T03:55:25.281-07:00<b>El Camino (Levante) Cross of Los Milagros above Portocamba (10.9km) to Laza and a bit extra towards Soutelo Verde Monday 16th April, 2018</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCphwBIWeSPWFNk8djLZOgJ-Dmhvf6755_bfpRnEfFPCx6fMNLrZTGuC_DBqQnMUjx2GfoQHqimDHRxlxT1KO4bsEKb_7-736cWOxf4BlWpA6VHuFmzlQAIuD31n0hsRpeBjy9toKkQuJ4/s1600/IMG_7258.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCphwBIWeSPWFNk8djLZOgJ-Dmhvf6755_bfpRnEfFPCx6fMNLrZTGuC_DBqQnMUjx2GfoQHqimDHRxlxT1KO4bsEKb_7-736cWOxf4BlWpA6VHuFmzlQAIuD31n0hsRpeBjy9toKkQuJ4/s200/IMG_7258.JPG" width="200" /></a>Hmmm - good start! My Cambelbak seal got trapped, stretched and didn't seal my water in the reservoir so I felt cold water running down my trousers which soaked me, left my camera drenched and not working and me without water! It was a fabulous day, glorious sun driving back the clouds and great views - such a shame as I missed some of the best scenic photos of the trip. My phone camera just isn't quite good enough for that sort of panorama.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi878VG4mTb6ix0Zgc6SttN8fpXohaviiG9fp7SmeVsQ6NVC8kGAzTLLThGId-mZvh53ljE83EBBScXigc59MDnVP7h_TQJQdywMTepvikGwYqktt_GrfFSJMX32VW26lCLUuzEZ_DF7jVh/s1600/IMG_7260.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi878VG4mTb6ix0Zgc6SttN8fpXohaviiG9fp7SmeVsQ6NVC8kGAzTLLThGId-mZvh53ljE83EBBScXigc59MDnVP7h_TQJQdywMTepvikGwYqktt_GrfFSJMX32VW26lCLUuzEZ_DF7jVh/s200/IMG_7260.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgszksqjkvVP4Q2M0jrDTI4dqEqmI8m-Uei36-eFAGdBlQEvqpYc4f5t9MJxmz00uooOl5v4gMe2KV-nDjxZ2CFpiwGBQ-XeTFG8zpXFOcqQfQCx6qvQmUwUsrqJ3eI_vg1ImwWF6EMal1C/s1600/IMG_7259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgszksqjkvVP4Q2M0jrDTI4dqEqmI8m-Uei36-eFAGdBlQEvqpYc4f5t9MJxmz00uooOl5v4gMe2KV-nDjxZ2CFpiwGBQ-XeTFG8zpXFOcqQfQCx6qvQmUwUsrqJ3eI_vg1ImwWF6EMal1C/s320/IMG_7259.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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It was still a lovely walk and I did manage to capture some wonderful cloud moods over the valley. There were a number of pilgrims who passed me to day or walked a little while in step just behind or in front. Most said hello or held a short conversation and we all regularly stopped to look at the views and photograph the blue skies as the clouds moved aside to reveal a glorious and hot day. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL7Om8Q8M04z35QMsjT55p5ys1LOnTaCW4cO6Ly7KYACo6aK_Qm87Kji92XTYf_LlkTNsZI3_1fuFOr0MXy48mKLAm1luG8GVQKW5uPFAFlswPuucHrCyYLi5KmiiK5cnwzxNJwtRa7SN-/s1600/IMG_7263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL7Om8Q8M04z35QMsjT55p5ys1LOnTaCW4cO6Ly7KYACo6aK_Qm87Kji92XTYf_LlkTNsZI3_1fuFOr0MXy48mKLAm1luG8GVQKW5uPFAFlswPuucHrCyYLi5KmiiK5cnwzxNJwtRa7SN-/s320/IMG_7263.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The little covered area where a flask and teas and coffees are<br />
left for pilgrims - along with some bales to sit on and rest<br />
awhile</td></tr>
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My "muy crujente" nuts were much appreciated on the walk down and kept me sustained through the morning. My energy was flagging somewhat as I neared Laza and the heat kicked in to make it more tiring. As usual some kind pilgrims had built an arrow here and there where there may have been some ambiguity as to which direction to follow, but on the whole I think they were just having fun as it wasn't a difficult route to find.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrYkH0lsTYVJ5n9YxSW6M-K2vopVeyedhqYAvlCOpQ6-Gt6NLj1llL29siOAr7ZopbPmxvi_ZlGxErVwXW_pa7DNVAWDFBcSyrS-U24WrXs-FIx59AhY5-QjiQG3Uw7vPk2_Sa9rq4i1p/s1600/IMG_7264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrYkH0lsTYVJ5n9YxSW6M-K2vopVeyedhqYAvlCOpQ6-Gt6NLj1llL29siOAr7ZopbPmxvi_ZlGxErVwXW_pa7DNVAWDFBcSyrS-U24WrXs-FIx59AhY5-QjiQG3Uw7vPk2_Sa9rq4i1p/s200/IMG_7264.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Decorated marker in Eiras near<br />
the little rest stop</td></tr>
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The walk was simply beautiful and there seems to a be a lot of care taken towards pilgrims and their well being on this route. It is completely serviced by those who pop up from Laza (or so it seems) to keep it looking pretty and make sure there is some refreshment. All they ask for is a "donative" - a lovely idea but I was not thirsty and did not stop. The pilgrims I had passed were all partaking of some refreshment and of course this mean they would all pass me again further down the mountain. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9JmjxdCh6GVEnnQdXi87g78ef_SqjT1BN0hQq5EHaM_TrpX31SDuT__BPxNG_TvxOiIGVvNFdZVguAgVeglTjj5Kild5s2ciaFAr8U-FqYxVj-wT2JHu4UW4m_v3QbwZvdquo3PmSs7J0/s1600/IMG_7265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9JmjxdCh6GVEnnQdXi87g78ef_SqjT1BN0hQq5EHaM_TrpX31SDuT__BPxNG_TvxOiIGVvNFdZVguAgVeglTjj5Kild5s2ciaFAr8U-FqYxVj-wT2JHu4UW4m_v3QbwZvdquo3PmSs7J0/s320/IMG_7265.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3LQe_LtM-V9Bfa2aj9ltOh1FFXOfhGufXq1Zw1KiLWk_Jj7sKKbuuh1no_BCuowvzXaRwrEWx_o_qM44eRy9Jvyi8OUbRDa91_jjejUZasvLVQ08t2iatbs2QamWVl7omqOSL2XrrRhB0/s1600/IMG_7266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3LQe_LtM-V9Bfa2aj9ltOh1FFXOfhGufXq1Zw1KiLWk_Jj7sKKbuuh1no_BCuowvzXaRwrEWx_o_qM44eRy9Jvyi8OUbRDa91_jjejUZasvLVQ08t2iatbs2QamWVl7omqOSL2XrrRhB0/s320/IMG_7266.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rest area heading towards Laza - lovely place to stop and<br />
picnic for pilgrims</td></tr>
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There were lots of nationalities out today - German, French, Spanish and myself... The French guys were very noisy chatters! They wished me Buen Camino but later when we passed again they asked what language I spoke. The main guy asked about French but I said mine was a bit out of date (rusty) and he said something weird like "I expect so" (?) They asked where I had stayed the night before and I explained that I walk the camino in sections and then M and I are currently in one location this time and stay together. The friend said that is a convenient and nodded and smiled like it was a good idea. From the main guy I got the impression he was not too impressed as though I was not walk-in the Camino "properly"... fast forward to later in this blog! I will leave you with that thought for a moment.....<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihJEKJLB4M0BqVXAeq6ixGxtwrS1R8od5opotCoJBfNo-9VL9zYeYL8oOiYAj3YcAxW5_UqlnR53R_-_whmYNP1uBSZvKLWOoVPNVHG-sQRUgETdYAQPzNkqlxBb9MWnZZDHPzEjwQz366/s1600/IMG_7267.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihJEKJLB4M0BqVXAeq6ixGxtwrS1R8od5opotCoJBfNo-9VL9zYeYL8oOiYAj3YcAxW5_UqlnR53R_-_whmYNP1uBSZvKLWOoVPNVHG-sQRUgETdYAQPzNkqlxBb9MWnZZDHPzEjwQz366/s640/IMG_7267.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The most beautiful lifting of the clouds as the warmth of the sun evaporated them away from the valley </td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-iYhBJb1eP0FJLa4upAQp6mV1k-JXYRVXJAQklUiRCQY2AVD4kuYsxYN4FcOnOmeAGUsZYykzvTzvmGGvwZxZQ4s065wFmRg1ruAziGKgiBvRghrN2WfiibzQwLBcug1uDyljB8SQancB/s1600/IMG_7268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-iYhBJb1eP0FJLa4upAQp6mV1k-JXYRVXJAQklUiRCQY2AVD4kuYsxYN4FcOnOmeAGUsZYykzvTzvmGGvwZxZQ4s065wFmRg1ruAziGKgiBvRghrN2WfiibzQwLBcug1uDyljB8SQancB/s320/IMG_7268.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Squashed and dead procession</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The peace was a little more broken today as it was back to the working week, so the view of the amazing viaduct being built over the valley was filled with lorries and workmen busying themselves with the enormous engineering works. You could see the two tunnels entering the opposite side of the valley today and the silence gave way to the rumble of lorries carrying sand and gravel. Once around the mountain and away from the works it grew quieter again and the cuckoo accompanied us all the way into Laza. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-hhGq_NhtgwdSFqy-MN2T1IgQjbDXZoB1S86aAypt_jvVgmkHvoR_XLibL_gOs7KuWjxvyl0oYUEqW1rREzAvbXS4sU07Xfk4ZD-4tNxLyvSk3eybzogFGjpF23FEw1Vesihv79x5Be6_/s1600/IMG_7269.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-hhGq_NhtgwdSFqy-MN2T1IgQjbDXZoB1S86aAypt_jvVgmkHvoR_XLibL_gOs7KuWjxvyl0oYUEqW1rREzAvbXS4sU07Xfk4ZD-4tNxLyvSk3eybzogFGjpF23FEw1Vesihv79x5Be6_/s320/IMG_7269.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A very long and very much alive procession!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There were many, many processionary pine caterpillars out today. Many squashed or that had died because the lead caterpillar had been crushed, some going in circles (which I had read about but never seen!) and others in very, very long lines which unnerved me. I wonder how many of the other pilgrims are aware of them. There were so many I was glad I did not have the dogs as their hairs were all over the road. In fact, they were in such abundance that M and I took our shoes off outside the hotel room door when we got back and left them near it rather than risk bringing hairs into the room and on which we might step in bare feet!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ogKCGFnkRC0TpvB-n67RVHR6YfJ8Hh6E4vnzXP0OZ2bVavNTie49rM63PF3xEKZHJVXBSNATwgqyRWhUX9ab6BhkndF5zx0BBv-ht6GJV5EEcdNSD2htVGO4MQg9cEbuLVjafECZtnVL/s1600/IMG_7271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ogKCGFnkRC0TpvB-n67RVHR6YfJ8Hh6E4vnzXP0OZ2bVavNTie49rM63PF3xEKZHJVXBSNATwgqyRWhUX9ab6BhkndF5zx0BBv-ht6GJV5EEcdNSD2htVGO4MQg9cEbuLVjafECZtnVL/s640/IMG_7271.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In case anyone is looking for a rests top in Laza - donations for staying here. Looks good.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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At the bottom of the mountain and on the last little off road bit of track before entering Laza there was another sign showing the equestrian route and the hiker's route. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6fiFUwDeziWQEZ1_npUo8LkVcpbfKlvURg0WPYMjL-RdmrbVEh3iroNCzfpE69_PUvAJ1s77N_cUCmuDcm9k3ptl5lN2ijpmmRyBWA6Y85q_ctBiGE3IgjzUNUBwOkMRtSMGb8UWi0QG2/s1600/IMG_7272.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6fiFUwDeziWQEZ1_npUo8LkVcpbfKlvURg0WPYMjL-RdmrbVEh3iroNCzfpE69_PUvAJ1s77N_cUCmuDcm9k3ptl5lN2ijpmmRyBWA6Y85q_ctBiGE3IgjzUNUBwOkMRtSMGb8UWi0QG2/s320/IMG_7272.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
I entered Laza with heavy legs from all the downhill. Muscles were tight and the heat was rising, but it was still very pleasant. I was glad that it was the end of the day's walk and M directed me in and waved from a vantage point where he had found a nice cafe for a cafe con leche. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQP3xFRfQUpg5hU-GoHooirjhCtskWPJtWdF1c3laHCv_jyQ45lvBWeilQRCQmp0pRLXKRRuZMMBz-Mb5diwVGOVZMui4k9FRUm5nw5wWxjlr42r_99KWIoEMeZvivyz1aL6AUS9voMyvk/s1600/IMG_7276.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQP3xFRfQUpg5hU-GoHooirjhCtskWPJtWdF1c3laHCv_jyQ45lvBWeilQRCQmp0pRLXKRRuZMMBz-Mb5diwVGOVZMui4k9FRUm5nw5wWxjlr42r_99KWIoEMeZvivyz1aL6AUS9voMyvk/s200/IMG_7276.JPG" width="200" /></a>There were more ads for places to stay on route and I thought that there would be an ayuntamiento for a sello but as with so many in this region it was no longer in use. Fortunately the bar provided a very nice one and was not far from the Albergue which actually looked very cool and inviting. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9bfHlZj36-m_zqlCYRkL11oxF6NivJFweFAITpXDqdYIwvKnQbkQ7rtu61BGwLYu0CKfKlWBdikiPps5Xbw_cKPUSWeSix9DZfExJQXkyGfEzqCkBWAFPHHfYv5_zVJTa32MDiNrjCe43/s1600/IMG_7273.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9bfHlZj36-m_zqlCYRkL11oxF6NivJFweFAITpXDqdYIwvKnQbkQ7rtu61BGwLYu0CKfKlWBdikiPps5Xbw_cKPUSWeSix9DZfExJQXkyGfEzqCkBWAFPHHfYv5_zVJTa32MDiNrjCe43/s320/IMG_7273.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
As Michael joined me for the last few metres to the cafe, there ahead was the disapproving Frenchman... well, he may not have been of course but anyway... there he was, with his friend - getting into a TAXI! Backpacks were being loaded into the boot and and yet they had given me the impression that they had walked every step since Seville on the Via de la Plata! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT0wvzUP2fyhxIFDxf8kwiN4MPqFV7UZMXfFtILg6peIRyaVp2tC-lIXjtCS7lbk-xUBs3M8K-_Mnspwib2huMHD8qs2vRXa98F8ssRS_pXPNpe49Bgn7_0mJvzT3iFCrdJWjR0UN0-xl8/s1600/IMG_7278.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT0wvzUP2fyhxIFDxf8kwiN4MPqFV7UZMXfFtILg6peIRyaVp2tC-lIXjtCS7lbk-xUBs3M8K-_Mnspwib2huMHD8qs2vRXa98F8ssRS_pXPNpe49Bgn7_0mJvzT3iFCrdJWjR0UN0-xl8/s200/IMG_7278.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-EAAamTuxd5GUB_60N471XKo83zyRr2-sNgn3QL3oan6CyiVyrwaT7n1medvhAPpKz8BtT2zdykGP8boamkAbJWIbCZYNkBRJbioSsVyV_k1B044vE2zceZjxY-Pk2jhfmzEifLCkebEw/s1600/IMG_7277.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-EAAamTuxd5GUB_60N471XKo83zyRr2-sNgn3QL3oan6CyiVyrwaT7n1medvhAPpKz8BtT2zdykGP8boamkAbJWIbCZYNkBRJbioSsVyV_k1B044vE2zceZjxY-Pk2jhfmzEifLCkebEw/s320/IMG_7277.JPG" width="320" /></a>I am not one to judge and walking sections of the route is fine - I haven't been against skipping long road sections or busy highways... but this made me laugh. After their insinuations, it was hilarious to see them getting into the Taxi and I wish that I had been closer to say "hello" with a knowing look! I am sure that they were skipping the next "hard climb" (and it was to be a very hard climb and not glossed over by the guide book)... and then starting from the downhill to Ourense! Or maybe they were then starting again from Ourense and just walking the final 100km. Maybe it was a language thing, but maybe not.... maybe the way I am walking it had led them to wish they had thought of it! Regardless - it let to M and I joking that they couldn't be trusted! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYYAr3wXr8m0hhi4F7gXqHI2x7D5LRO4BNDdwSMlbANHSHjB0BZblukxJbnxiorYexHtQ4HV87qRPo7HkCqz1_GRbsWQoeICvcyI0mIoSL3VBENmhFHIL1OFbYMg3Qtp7raIjylqt8lvYL/s1600/IMG_7280.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYYAr3wXr8m0hhi4F7gXqHI2x7D5LRO4BNDdwSMlbANHSHjB0BZblukxJbnxiorYexHtQ4HV87qRPo7HkCqz1_GRbsWQoeICvcyI0mIoSL3VBENmhFHIL1OFbYMg3Qtp7raIjylqt8lvYL/s400/IMG_7280.JPG" width="400" /></a>Laza is known for the Fiestas held just before Lent. It is known as El Entroido and those who take part are known as peliqueiros - because they are men dressed in colourful costumes with hoods made of animal skins. They create mayhem and toss around coloured water and often flour. They "threaten" with long sticks like the old tax-collectors of the counts of Monterei in past times. The idea is to "escape" and have fun - it looks from the pictures a bit like SongKran! I can't say I would be keen to visit during this festival. <br />
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http://www.carnavalexhibit.org/laza.php<br />
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The full article and photos can be found in the link above... the photos are really nice as they show the costumes. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1qf4J-Q8FBLimMtaTNWfklhSq8cef9ExmI_Ne-KW06LywbCy8X2loac9y8um9Qoj9NoMlUMq2AahEyEphJhiL3TdQ93Upz0GrUQdOeamzLmMbnCKPOmsDw_NMVjRIQGhSNHTPsqLUTeBE/s1600/IMG_7279.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1qf4J-Q8FBLimMtaTNWfklhSq8cef9ExmI_Ne-KW06LywbCy8X2loac9y8um9Qoj9NoMlUMq2AahEyEphJhiL3TdQ93Upz0GrUQdOeamzLmMbnCKPOmsDw_NMVjRIQGhSNHTPsqLUTeBE/s320/IMG_7279.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering Laza - turn left at the building in the left of the<br />
photo - you can just see the shell marker on the wall<br />
of the cream building.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="med" style="color: #009999; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 30px;">The first recorded inhabitants of the region of Galicia, in the northwest corner of Spain, were Celts, but over centuries other groups, including the Romans and Visigoths, took turns controlling the area. During the Middle Ages, Galicia was under the crown of Castile and it became part of the kingdom of Spain in the late 15th century. A rugged mountain range isolates Galicia from the rest of the country and even </span><span style="background-color: white;"></span><span class="med" style="color: #009999; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 30px;">today many residents carry on a rural lifestyle with roots in the distant past. The region is often viewed as "poor and backward" by other Spaniards, but Galicians take great pride in their cultural heritage and their way of life. Their Carnival, known regionally as <i>entroido</i> (beginning or entrance), includes some medieval festival traditions, though it is still a vibrant part of village life today. </span><span style="background-color: white;"></span><span class="med" style="color: #009999; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 30px;">The small community of Laza boasts about 900 inhabitants and <i>entroido</i> is one of the focal points around which the townspeople organize their lives. The Carnival play is acted out through music, dance, and feasting. Ritualized aggression involves participants whipping spectators and throwing ash, flour, water, and dirt filled with ants on one another. Makeshift floats express social and political commentary as does the public reading of a testament that provides comical, satirical, and exaggerated statements about the actions of the townspeople during the past year. </span><br />
<span class="med" style="color: #009999; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 30px;"><span class="med" style="line-height: 30px;">Clang, clang, clang. <i>Peliqueiros</i> prance in the streets on Sunday morning and the distinctive sound of the large bells hanging from their waists tells everyone that the <i>entroido</i> has begun. These masqueraders, authority figures in Laza's Carnival, carry whips to hit bystanders as a reminder that it is time to play. The exact origin of their elaborate costume and mask is unknown. However, some locals say the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: small;"></span><span class="med" style="line-height: 30px;"><i>peliqueiros'</i> outfit and mannerisms derive from 16th-century tax collectors who carried whips and wore masks with grimacing smiles to intimidate the townspeople.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghsAjtSUzM6cM0sNgXt475hTb0Vf27ayoKK7KR5tSWxOGNubsGLfCMyB4ud9UusJiAhaHdA1pi2dt525JA4EcWNj7iMqNOtISrFYWVNhYdiuGcJzo3FzGql55eGblnhr5Ukd4fAIuq5NTS/s1600/IMG_7281.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghsAjtSUzM6cM0sNgXt475hTb0Vf27ayoKK7KR5tSWxOGNubsGLfCMyB4ud9UusJiAhaHdA1pi2dt525JA4EcWNj7iMqNOtISrFYWVNhYdiuGcJzo3FzGql55eGblnhr5Ukd4fAIuq5NTS/s320/IMG_7281.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lovely albergue in the old part of town, just down from<br />
the really nice cafe and HUGE sello!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span class="med" style="color: #009999; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 30px;"><span class="med" style="line-height: 30px;"><span class="med" style="line-height: 30px;">Monday is the "dirty" and "wild" day of Laza's Carnival. The <i>farrapada</i> (ragging) in the main plaza begins with one muddy rag thrown at an unsuspecting victim and quickly escalates into an all-out mud war </span><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: small;"></span><span class="med" style="line-height: 30px;">lasting more than two hours. In the meantime a few young men go into the countryside to dig up anthills and collect the ant-filled dirt, which they shovel into sacks and carry back to town. They douse the ants </span><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: small;"></span><span class="med" style="line-height: 30px;">with vinegar to wake them up and then run into the plaza flinging dirt and ants into the air, into peoples' faces, or right down their backs and into their clothes.</span></span></span><br />
<span class="med" style="color: #009999; font-family: "verdana" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 30px;"><span class="med" style="line-height: 30px;"><span class="med" style="line-height: 30px;"><span class="med" style="line-height: 30px;">he <i>morena,</i> or cow masquerader, appears briefly during the ant-throwing episode. This character acts like a mad cow loose in the square, butting people, lifting women's skirts, and adding to the sense of chaos. Its carved wooden mask is attached to one end of a long pole that the masker manipulates with aggressive gestures as he makes his way through the crowd.</span><span style="background-color: white; color: black; font-size: small;"></span></span></span></span><br />
<div class="med" style="color: #009999; font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 30px;">
At dusk on Tuesday afternoon people gather in the main plaza for one of the last events of Laza's Carnival. The <i>testamento do burro </i>(testament of the donkey), presents a satirical and mocking recounting of scandalous events that occurred in Laza during the past year. Prepared and read by the <i>testamenteiro,</i> it is a rhymed verse written in the Galician form of Spanish. Using a fictional framework, the reader verbally "distributes" body parts of the donkey to the townspeople he is talking about. For example, a man who lost his pig from the back of his truck on the way to market received the eyes of the donkey so that he might keep better track of his animals.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7_lm2-dpIMIWIXfqg2cVuOY0H62dhnbFKHOiCALcSZdElLZS_Xs0mWm2zCQChsAx6trsBynQORIGwziihuibEAARN2W4ruH9PV6djqIs_68E7_XAGtNXI8oMMhjpazX0FyNhkhfJa2MNs/s1600/IMG_7282.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7_lm2-dpIMIWIXfqg2cVuOY0H62dhnbFKHOiCALcSZdElLZS_Xs0mWm2zCQChsAx6trsBynQORIGwziihuibEAARN2W4ruH9PV6djqIs_68E7_XAGtNXI8oMMhjpazX0FyNhkhfJa2MNs/s320/IMG_7282.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What appears to be the old courthouse or police station..<br />
some kind of government building anyway</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We sat down for a lovely coffee and here I got my credential stamped. It is the most enormous sello and took up two of my precious spaces! I was trying to keep with one credential to the end but I will definitely need to contact the Confraternity again to see if I can get a new one sent to the UK. <br />
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After a welcome rest, I set off to walk out of the town but with a break from my backpack. The old town is amazing and very different from some of the other Spanish towns we have passed through. Lots of stone balconies and almost every house has goats under the living area. Some are let out to graze in communal areas, but many have the doors open to let in the air and have a barred gate across. The old ladies take them hay and they seem to be given things to climb on in these under-house barns. It feels very ancient, like when everyone used to live over their livestock - and which of course provides warmth to the house above in winter! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO7yJrvC9nFjFOgHR5DHJpsjPpmAIYbPVLtVvXx06HWjIt0jZxTnrFTtKzDVbFMdPELEm7vCXQ-5e70Z5VlBPLKN6xVcnEGRkjNCmGJQ0SEvh348wdN9vNLP7dfKbpYpC0RsKFyB28ci1x/s1600/IMG_7283.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO7yJrvC9nFjFOgHR5DHJpsjPpmAIYbPVLtVvXx06HWjIt0jZxTnrFTtKzDVbFMdPELEm7vCXQ-5e70Z5VlBPLKN6xVcnEGRkjNCmGJQ0SEvh348wdN9vNLP7dfKbpYpC0RsKFyB28ci1x/s320/IMG_7283.JPG" width="320" /></a>The big old courthouse or government building of sorts was beautiful. You could imagine officials coming out onto the balcony. I assumed it was some sort of court house or police station because there were tiny little slits of windows in the lower level - which were presumably holding cells. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjevHTvq_vPDPVQ5PpR5tA3Zs8Rrk8IdkljkT7XBJc1k1KWxNSjoqKKlnDmc1JD5tsuTpeMJ-iNz1py-zjBHUkFtSIN_1sv_FBkI8IF2Gbu49I_fOG7cOqs1ZA51KUI4K9w2lVloV79JLvt/s1600/IMG_7284.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjevHTvq_vPDPVQ5PpR5tA3Zs8Rrk8IdkljkT7XBJc1k1KWxNSjoqKKlnDmc1JD5tsuTpeMJ-iNz1py-zjBHUkFtSIN_1sv_FBkI8IF2Gbu49I_fOG7cOqs1ZA51KUI4K9w2lVloV79JLvt/s200/IMG_7284.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With my Audrey Hepburn glasses</td></tr>
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I checked out the route to SouteloVerde, where I would start in two days. The following day had been planned as a day off and one that would be most welcome visiting the volcanic pools (thermal springs) in Ourense to soak the aching muscles! The climb would be a last big push and quite a steep ascent over a short distance, but this would be the last one before heading down hill to the flatter valley and Ourense. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYgFfHxLiHdKrBjUChlCwpmZ0_tHdgN-PajxKFWUVWOqmN-ZH73zxy__sssMQCUJIlZ1o7fTjLd_pNrXOH7h7BHWSTPBsJowl8u2iOPbJ_lRiSSLzhdgURjRcG99NtzhcEN3tYIQxpOX-U/s1600/IMG_7274.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYgFfHxLiHdKrBjUChlCwpmZ0_tHdgN-PajxKFWUVWOqmN-ZH73zxy__sssMQCUJIlZ1o7fTjLd_pNrXOH7h7BHWSTPBsJowl8u2iOPbJ_lRiSSLzhdgURjRcG99NtzhcEN3tYIQxpOX-U/s320/IMG_7274.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another accommodation option for Laza</td></tr>
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<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-59709075194302747122018-07-19T07:29:00.001-07:002018-07-19T07:29:21.398-07:00<b>El Camino (Levante) Just beyond Venda do Capela (16.2km) to Portocamba Sunday 15th April, 2018</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXkGWB8avSMx01VOs9CEbMgV6YBJewbRLI3TsLHQwoCDLM7zEyT43bze0ArCq_9Z_uSLT3fsqL5UyxTLBsx3sTAlsDK7HKyhkJ5bboVtRDcce7eJNcKSWC8u7djEGFoaenE_yMLzI8Wo_7/s1600/DSCF0999.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXkGWB8avSMx01VOs9CEbMgV6YBJewbRLI3TsLHQwoCDLM7zEyT43bze0ArCq_9Z_uSLT3fsqL5UyxTLBsx3sTAlsDK7HKyhkJ5bboVtRDcce7eJNcKSWC8u7djEGFoaenE_yMLzI8Wo_7/s320/DSCF0999.JPG" width="320" /></a>Despite the original plan to do 16.2km this ended up around 14km as I again did extra the previous day. I still need in Porta Camba as originally planned. Although not pouring with rain, this was possibly the wettest day since Font de la Figuera back on the first part of the Camino Levante as I headed NW from Canals. As usual with all the correct gear on I wasn't cold and felt warm and dry within my jacket and waterproof trousers. I felt quite exhilarated to be on my way. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigRv8QDUW0rvhODeqNwTiLtbWjXa5OXWc7XIwK0NC5HoqRr8gVqp8NnIqHsEenQklWgrEGdRCzwPD5EDAjCqCMfW26ZlLxlhAlAfFN1uJcZWq1p6MDSep2HyF8OoDHUQTyt1xzR0rBq-Nq/s1600/IMG_7232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="1344" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigRv8QDUW0rvhODeqNwTiLtbWjXa5OXWc7XIwK0NC5HoqRr8gVqp8NnIqHsEenQklWgrEGdRCzwPD5EDAjCqCMfW26ZlLxlhAlAfFN1uJcZWq1p6MDSep2HyF8OoDHUQTyt1xzR0rBq-Nq/s320/IMG_7232.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Misty, cold and wet start to the day - but it was GREAT!</td></tr>
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Soon from out of the mist rose a Casa Rural which caters for pilgrims and which had a lovely little seating area with a water fountain and scallop shell on it. I was amazed that anyone would know about it in order to stay here - I wish more of these were advertised in the guide books or on the websites. This was a great place and if there had been a number or contact information outside I would have photographed it to put here. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHqx3s7Jxyj7HEwNtCpRtA1xHkqV_XvRUgDRvbWY-Rj9X9XTwEIm02OP1G-6JLeluAQ03FiqkSR40ogL6nKtk5yvKJ-MzzwzBungXJ6wKIwAVegfYiehvDW7Div7AmGv2tBXy9rGMRTwpe/s1600/IMG_7251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="760" data-original-width="1344" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHqx3s7Jxyj7HEwNtCpRtA1xHkqV_XvRUgDRvbWY-Rj9X9XTwEIm02OP1G-6JLeluAQ03FiqkSR40ogL6nKtk5yvKJ-MzzwzBungXJ6wKIwAVegfYiehvDW7Div7AmGv2tBXy9rGMRTwpe/s200/IMG_7251.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the very few times I have ever<br />used my backpack cover on the Camino</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR4WjdIlR6oW-IPOHgO2jFlMyKooLsfYGcW-As_UTc1ZhREMwV_ibl19WYkSULeKHz5gnHWfmcR0aJ1oP1s7jR8Xfzn5Z_tyAZ7rymp0Uj_BL2mWzRHYYfrxqE9xRAnlRhKmmlBq254iq0/s1600/DSCF1002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR4WjdIlR6oW-IPOHgO2jFlMyKooLsfYGcW-As_UTc1ZhREMwV_ibl19WYkSULeKHz5gnHWfmcR0aJ1oP1s7jR8Xfzn5Z_tyAZ7rymp0Uj_BL2mWzRHYYfrxqE9xRAnlRhKmmlBq254iq0/s200/DSCF1002.JPG" width="200" /></a>Despite the mist and therefore the lack of views, it was still an amazing day. There have been very few occasions when I have never heard a single man made sound. In fact, this might be the only day! It was truly only filled with the sound of nature, a few birds, one of which was the cuckoo resonating out of the mist and the drip and tap of the raindrops. Every now and again I would stop to listen - not even a plane cut through the earth's natural rhythms to spoil this moment. I truly understood the phrase that the silence was deafening - in fact it felt thick and heavy, not oppressive but more like a blanket of quiet... then, from out of the mist this time, a skylark, somehow finding its way, rising and soaring invisibly above me with its climbing song and one of my favourite summer sounds. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMVoiL6Rpqb4-uNZPu69K0-qMLxi2xwg0av6kZf5dCt5gSp_GjU_0nsk-LGm8zbhjo212MqgGfXHnEsi_dCTB80u8Ma1TtIlHqnci9nW8QQ3rIkJ6POUwsoN6GV1lrJMz1DeYLfYuZYfAm/s1600/DSCF1004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMVoiL6Rpqb4-uNZPu69K0-qMLxi2xwg0av6kZf5dCt5gSp_GjU_0nsk-LGm8zbhjo212MqgGfXHnEsi_dCTB80u8Ma1TtIlHqnci9nW8QQ3rIkJ6POUwsoN6GV1lrJMz1DeYLfYuZYfAm/s320/DSCF1004.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The smiling face in the track! Thank you to the peregrino<br />who made it</td></tr>
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The route seemed long today and I was grateful for a coffee break and the chance to much on some tangerine and "muy crujente" sweet and salty nuts and corn kernels. Yum I love those things! Mercadona will be getting another visit next time and if they are still made, I will be bringing a suitcase load back with me! They are also the perfect thing to sustain the hiker! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHWLREMF4oO_vml95lclgXsqUWSPvdMpGMMOQqwuSyrKAaKPB5WQ4JZivQaEKtsO-rBk_45439F9oWOw0ec0JlbndMyM8JUyXy9OaLYwQXlhEFhQJVtwjaojteki8M2VH9YjnAtWMrrlBB/s1600/DSCF1005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHWLREMF4oO_vml95lclgXsqUWSPvdMpGMMOQqwuSyrKAaKPB5WQ4JZivQaEKtsO-rBk_45439F9oWOw0ec0JlbndMyM8JUyXy9OaLYwQXlhEFhQJVtwjaojteki8M2VH9YjnAtWMrrlBB/s200/DSCF1005.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the usual helpful arrows<br />that pilgrims construct when there<br />may be an ambiguity in the direction<br />to take</td></tr>
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There was a lot of up today, quite hard going as the roads were gravelly and uneven. The climb seemed to go on forever and it was hot wearing all the waterproofs. As I plodded, head down and focused, below me there seemed to appear a face... surely not... was it??? Yes, indeed it was! Some wonderful and humorous pilgrim had decided to build a smiley face on the track to uplift others - and perfect because in the weather and with the climb I had had my head down. As I stepped back I realised that the face was actually a head on a long "stick figure" body made out of the shale. It cheered me up no end and I was very grateful to whoever had had the time and inclination to make it. It worked! Uplifted, I headed onward and literally upwards with renewed vigour. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIkZxPnmMmH-OqIyL-UGjl5S_-_sxX2RcVDnyA-51TWfmGbGk9_S3doJxS9pH_QjRsGDvUqhZkWrZkLsvcnkQEoLymwUcmt8MJ3bFNFlSxX_Myaosnn-hC00fqhGLivYxSJYXmpOM6k4LH/s1600/DSCF1006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIkZxPnmMmH-OqIyL-UGjl5S_-_sxX2RcVDnyA-51TWfmGbGk9_S3doJxS9pH_QjRsGDvUqhZkWrZkLsvcnkQEoLymwUcmt8MJ3bFNFlSxX_Myaosnn-hC00fqhGLivYxSJYXmpOM6k4LH/s320/DSCF1006.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Direction marker and in the background the scallop shell<br />with the "yes!" written on it</td></tr>
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The route twisted and turned and I was for a while disoriented and expected to turn back toward the reservoir, but in fact it curved around us and although I felt like I was walking straight on, as I nearest he the top (another Alto) I saw the next high speed train construction site stretching below me and realised that the reservoir was curled around us - but out of sight due to the cloud. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8leufBuO-WGvRLR_nKrhtGk9QHRf0pIehgmgIX6f5uABSByydx3iUG4kWpwNdu8XPPo7WXH7c9SQZrKI2XHZRWcYEgyey-80fxzkppyYXlPjj_Q-nXYewSNye6es5q0IDXhAU9b_2bSFv/s1600/DSCF1007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8leufBuO-WGvRLR_nKrhtGk9QHRf0pIehgmgIX6f5uABSByydx3iUG4kWpwNdu8XPPo7WXH7c9SQZrKI2XHZRWcYEgyey-80fxzkppyYXlPjj_Q-nXYewSNye6es5q0IDXhAU9b_2bSFv/s320/DSCF1007.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love this - I like to romantically think someone accepted<br />a proposal or came to decision about one at this point on their<br />camino and posted a photo back to their loved one</td></tr>
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As we had driven to the starting point we had passed a couple of peregrinos leaving A Gudiña and joked that they would have to go some to catch me up as I was starting quite a bit ahead of them. However, as I started my decent to Campo Berceros, they came steaming past me, practically scree running down the slippery and loose shared slope! A quick "buenos dias and burn camino" and they were gone! One came past before the other, but I later saw them hiking together companionably after a drink and collection of a sello in a bar in the town. <br />
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I also collected my sello from the lady there but got the third degree as to where I had started and why was it 4 years since my last time! Not such a friendly or pleasant experience but it was a good cafe con leche - coffee and caña 1.20 Euro. I couldn't find Michael and thought he would be in this bar as he had mentioned one that was open. I didn't expect to see another but as I left, there he was and at another open bar with a friendlier lady who also promised a sello. Sadly I had missed her and although I waited to accept a drink because I felt sorry he had promised her we would visit, she never reappeared so I headed on my way again. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlOOd1eBJOvxcN6nIf0lkWIs-hQ3irs2F3BN5bgf_urs4gLSo1RDrt5ghblEl7Kcq1uLg4qbbuMf6UFuEUEBL-IO_8YD6UHphO1l5z2PklWSTd7ShnhgkGRjUpojtlhgRIOc39WHeSOhVM/s1600/DSCF1008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlOOd1eBJOvxcN6nIf0lkWIs-hQ3irs2F3BN5bgf_urs4gLSo1RDrt5ghblEl7Kcq1uLg4qbbuMf6UFuEUEBL-IO_8YD6UHphO1l5z2PklWSTd7ShnhgkGRjUpojtlhgRIOc39WHeSOhVM/s320/DSCF1008.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The railway construction that follows the pilgrim all the<br />way and often interrupts or interferes with the route<br />or possibly in this case, the accommodation!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXwSV0Dx-OkmSxXcpO9bHPEjhQxzX5WxLNf-3JFHvAL4o1AN9-qajaop0GdpicUHvFZtM-jFHFdBROLmJuw7UdsjC5mXFbwBFGVHRdr5zgITtZrU_LpwC-92kJ5B0PCI87n8ocWAwxzwaY/s1600/fullsizeoutput_eb5.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXwSV0Dx-OkmSxXcpO9bHPEjhQxzX5WxLNf-3JFHvAL4o1AN9-qajaop0GdpicUHvFZtM-jFHFdBROLmJuw7UdsjC5mXFbwBFGVHRdr5zgITtZrU_LpwC-92kJ5B0PCI87n8ocWAwxzwaY/s320/fullsizeoutput_eb5.jpeg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The steep scree decent - this does give quite a<br />good impression of the gradient! </td></tr>
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At this point it should be noted that there IS and albergue here! Not mentioned in the guide book or any of the places I looked but of course it may have been set up since the guide's publication. There aren't any newer editions as this point (writing this in July 2018) as I checked. <br />
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When I looked for it specially I found the info (below) but also a pilgrim who said that the locals told him it was closed for peregrinos because the AVE (high speed rail team) had hired it exclusively. He was not happy because he said it was then 36km to Laza, and I agree, it's a hike too far and through hilly terrain. <br />
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The info on the Camino sites say it is open all year 11.00 to 22.00 and exclusively for pilgrims at 8.00 Euros per night. There seems to be another hostel in town too - Casa Nuñez at 30.00 Euros per night and with 4 rooms (https://www.gronze.com/galicia/orense/campobecerros/casa-nunez). It is not far from the albergue and there is a map on this link. <br />
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Teléfono:<br />
+34 988 077 624<br />
+34 608 887 835<br />
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For the Albergue...<br />
Albergue Rosario - C. Cardenal Quiroga, 9<br />
Localidad: Campobecerros<br />
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Teléfono:<br />
+34 650 53 05 47<br />
+34 988 30 89 43<br />
E-mail: alberguedarosario18@gmail.com<br />
32626 Campobecerros, Province of Ourense, Spain<br />
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The following includes a review from November 2017, so it was still open then for pilgrims. The reviews are good and suggest good food.<br />
http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergue-da-rosario<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWQahC5TDCIFrSFRjhHBX9RsRICUkMYLWJEucBc7u-iyTZUWIHDbZPgopdaAfz5YtOVAslhQFD2QCFKYDU9JDRm44qbiFjBeU0-_7l-nizXtxPyQwpWFHba_EWJHfPAnpnJu89JMU3vNza/s1600/DSCF1012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWQahC5TDCIFrSFRjhHBX9RsRICUkMYLWJEucBc7u-iyTZUWIHDbZPgopdaAfz5YtOVAslhQFD2QCFKYDU9JDRm44qbiFjBeU0-_7l-nizXtxPyQwpWFHba_EWJHfPAnpnJu89JMU3vNza/s200/DSCF1012.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cairn on the way down into<br />Campobecerros</td></tr>
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The other thing to be pleased about in Campbecerros, considering it seems like it may lack life, is that there are bars open and food available on a "Sunday" not always the case in Spain as we have found out a number of times in the past! It is well worth stopping here before heading to Laza and I would suggest staying in Laza also before the big climb out of Soutelo Verde!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitIyWTwyq8YFQxMK4qr8w5vysePxi1RkjmAuOQo5VweOm91xc9C3357gwwR9BxJWqeI1KkOSvgUkUtqmLiV3D0wlqINkzRDKydmicyUZtugvV2DS6wlIIlomDBI1VPPAA2QMc8sSygCiTb/s1600/DSCF1013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitIyWTwyq8YFQxMK4qr8w5vysePxi1RkjmAuOQo5VweOm91xc9C3357gwwR9BxJWqeI1KkOSvgUkUtqmLiV3D0wlqINkzRDKydmicyUZtugvV2DS6wlIIlomDBI1VPPAA2QMc8sSygCiTb/s200/DSCF1013.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Opposite the cairn on entering<br />Campobecerros</td></tr>
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The decent on the loose shale into Campobecerros is hard work, especially with tired and very sore legs from the steep uphill sections. My heels were so painful and each step was agony. By the time I got to the bottom my legs were shaking with the effort, but as always it is so satisfying and that tiredness later when showered and in bed is wonderful - the sleep it brings is like no other! There were sad looking mastins everywhere. Many looked pregnant and miserable and I felt terrible at the bar as a sad dog desperately begging for food came close and as I removed my backpack the walking pole hit his head. He cried out and gave me the most injured of looks. I am sure he is often chased off and beaten, but I felt terrible and apologised but had nothing to give him. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBjwcjRO_vOBDgI9_Qg3Cst8qlttkFyzPBgQxvbPCfQSwzhnjrSX167I9CvOS_lkAiLHiyEp7di3HNy4ytWR5Sa2BTyKn3jnyiT4-m-RvKdQxd_OeM6K8PMZpXoFx2oGZBxYt6Wxzu9EQh/s1600/DSCF1016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBjwcjRO_vOBDgI9_Qg3Cst8qlttkFyzPBgQxvbPCfQSwzhnjrSX167I9CvOS_lkAiLHiyEp7di3HNy4ytWR5Sa2BTyKn3jnyiT4-m-RvKdQxd_OeM6K8PMZpXoFx2oGZBxYt6Wxzu9EQh/s200/DSCF1016.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The stream beds and drainage ditches<br />were overflowing with the melt<br />waters and recent rains</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHYQzyjLAEQM0uDUkIrKfvGzLewn-zQjw_2J85l3L6JXfMdnI1hD7XVTyAw2wgmpsO4rO_UEUpJSmKHYlAMgFfo1koPb6AuvvsAGcwohNTpiKfVD5XoyQDKYtrNUxbebG9Cs08gFPAugOA/s1600/DSCF1014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHYQzyjLAEQM0uDUkIrKfvGzLewn-zQjw_2J85l3L6JXfMdnI1hD7XVTyAw2wgmpsO4rO_UEUpJSmKHYlAMgFfo1koPb6AuvvsAGcwohNTpiKfVD5XoyQDKYtrNUxbebG9Cs08gFPAugOA/s320/DSCF1014.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The gourd and shell markers indicating the way to go<br />through Campobecerros</td></tr>
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On leaving the town there was a moped all decked out with flowers and a lady calling to a gazillion cats! They seemed to come running from everywhere - it was actually rather unnerving and I assume there is no plague of rats in this town! I called to her that she had many gatos and she laughed and waved cat food at me.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4W9zRQcWPQOt4prPrhW4mc92wvg-oGTKn9cYy8E2zTfimFZybcmAQliRgl9vtb-nR7zH6Pmvib016woxd0sZMeYxQiJnDw1IKyaq_H7uvDuDVb-F4Z_50OHaF9HrtvYRcbOWt9PmGB1yZ/s1600/DSCF1017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4W9zRQcWPQOt4prPrhW4mc92wvg-oGTKn9cYy8E2zTfimFZybcmAQliRgl9vtb-nR7zH6Pmvib016woxd0sZMeYxQiJnDw1IKyaq_H7uvDuDVb-F4Z_50OHaF9HrtvYRcbOWt9PmGB1yZ/s320/DSCF1017.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The many cats and the lady with the that brought out the<br />cat food!</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzovYFEgwVo8sukril2oBUJ8ikhlXmRZR8jH5PoRDYNYKAOo7ucFiKBldVecFyUyXJq9Grh7TU0P2atB9F8wUIAHRqSXpFCcSDbuqL9h6tWiY_t99vXJDVtTjy9Xk81H6YfP6QE9EpcWX-/s1600/DSCF1018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzovYFEgwVo8sukril2oBUJ8ikhlXmRZR8jH5PoRDYNYKAOo7ucFiKBldVecFyUyXJq9Grh7TU0P2atB9F8wUIAHRqSXpFCcSDbuqL9h6tWiY_t99vXJDVtTjy9Xk81H6YfP6QE9EpcWX-/s200/DSCF1018.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The flower laden moped</td></tr>
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Oh joy - on leaving Campbecerros there was another hugely steep hill to climb. I was determined to get to Porto Camba today and go a bit beyond in order to shorten the next day's walk. I was still quite early and really wanted to make it to the next point.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOZ-jd1FP1EGtatf1eCDLMg1WNk-JQhufA7WaBg5lmHj2IUDo39a-HR2FnuUJ2RbE6EfwHaLma_fIBmaG_bKihdTnuhV8vJ89rHgj8CKCxryMMnXosSeg2IWmYqc-6hzBfAWfJrn21WqJt/s1600/DSCF1021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOZ-jd1FP1EGtatf1eCDLMg1WNk-JQhufA7WaBg5lmHj2IUDo39a-HR2FnuUJ2RbE6EfwHaLma_fIBmaG_bKihdTnuhV8vJ89rHgj8CKCxryMMnXosSeg2IWmYqc-6hzBfAWfJrn21WqJt/s200/DSCF1021.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKVHpFtw0grxVVwiW3delPhC6uJ-PwBnhGfgVYDnAjALutfokb8o2Z8GxaSQRueXJ2Hku1r6MJbsY_DMqEap3g1bQfrCsLMnqZ7Ou7USKO4PWdp31Y9m_voHfu24cqWt3LxxW33Cz15EKw/s1600/DSCF1020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKVHpFtw0grxVVwiW3delPhC6uJ-PwBnhGfgVYDnAjALutfokb8o2Z8GxaSQRueXJ2Hku1r6MJbsY_DMqEap3g1bQfrCsLMnqZ7Ou7USKO4PWdp31Y9m_voHfu24cqWt3LxxW33Cz15EKw/s320/DSCF1020.JPG" width="320" /></a>Portocamba itself is yet another ghost town, but with some amazing old houses and again some falling down yet with a pristine renovation between! I would worry that they would bring down the renovation and we were warned about this sort of thing (although a rarity) in the UK when we looked at a house in similar condition but semi-detached. No such worries here in Spain though. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKk7eRcBu9sCj_B_U3puO-Ms60Yq9wa6UsvL80BxOt5f4sLdcl-s3g-traYJissSIXbl_XdDnGH3n-m3Cf5_tJmxzl24de75nXU4eFWYOEOajG8N7FVKEkNj-_vBQWXouiVUyYfSjSFdK8/s1600/DSCF1019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKk7eRcBu9sCj_B_U3puO-Ms60Yq9wa6UsvL80BxOt5f4sLdcl-s3g-traYJissSIXbl_XdDnGH3n-m3Cf5_tJmxzl24de75nXU4eFWYOEOajG8N7FVKEkNj-_vBQWXouiVUyYfSjSFdK8/s200/DSCF1019.JPG" width="200" /></a>As in Venda da Capela (I keep meaning to mention the weird way that both the Spanish and Portuguese languages seem to have combined to form Galician...) there were young people who have taken over some of these houses and made them very smart and they look very well off. Maybe more affordable, maybe a family home... I don't know, but it is certainly quite a commute from here and in winter I would think well night impossible even with chains! There are many "Venda" villages here - from "vents" or inn which suggests that many people used to pass this way in times gone by - sad then that now there are very few inns or rest stops and that the villages are almost completely deserted.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidGO5CMnC-a5_1cPsiT3lpGAOrrB5U3g8m7Var-N0dvFJ9l48ANLGoeM9gXEaNMijfem3ddJrq-2ICpRLdzC4stROF9nZw_ZsRm0Fqpblpz7CkhCSCjB2gBjutk8hIDVj6lBF8tqLQNePQ/s1600/DSCF1022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidGO5CMnC-a5_1cPsiT3lpGAOrrB5U3g8m7Var-N0dvFJ9l48ANLGoeM9gXEaNMijfem3ddJrq-2ICpRLdzC4stROF9nZw_ZsRm0Fqpblpz7CkhCSCjB2gBjutk8hIDVj6lBF8tqLQNePQ/s400/DSCF1022.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">By the seat on the way out of Portocamba</td></tr>
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Mentioning Venda do Capela reminds me of the "gags for the day" from yesterday... passing "A Capela" Michael's wit decided this was a village of people singing without musical instruments (actually quite clever... and our GPS lady as we go through Seixelbo call is "Sex Elbow"... this conjures up quite a bit of amusement as you can imagine and some mental acrobatics! We swear she can hear us though - as on the way home, she decides to pronounce it correctly! In fact, by the end of the holiday I think she gave up completely on the Sex Elbow!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6c3gd318lt_H1ES5rKTu2JabLOECb4gLeaeLA4MDJYZDXsSJnu-Yt9i9NKaESTQzOsVRakavb58AS6u91HPypTP-0hJqg725fErvsYG5nQ8Tv6MPWUBgWh0ca1YopmDVU4PhfgwopaNg-/s1600/DSCF1024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6c3gd318lt_H1ES5rKTu2JabLOECb4gLeaeLA4MDJYZDXsSJnu-Yt9i9NKaESTQzOsVRakavb58AS6u91HPypTP-0hJqg725fErvsYG5nQ8Tv6MPWUBgWh0ca1YopmDVU4PhfgwopaNg-/s200/DSCF1024.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the many abandoned<br />homes in Portocamba</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1yu-cAOzdwRKliD-7zlfkqsFGwTqNhDi9M396fxRJnPjbpbOA4bvM4BpZxo6SPq4CyjW9ikXQ67PLpMhh65Y1u6C-EpBgrC0sX97CvJ4cifOSNg329MNSCtPmZHWMBlvDHsHyUEOd4DB/s1600/IMG_7243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1yu-cAOzdwRKliD-7zlfkqsFGwTqNhDi9M396fxRJnPjbpbOA4bvM4BpZxo6SPq4CyjW9ikXQ67PLpMhh65Y1u6C-EpBgrC0sX97CvJ4cifOSNg329MNSCtPmZHWMBlvDHsHyUEOd4DB/s320/IMG_7243.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the old door latches</td></tr>
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Leaving the village was again all uphill! I was really tired by now and very glad to see a fountain with cold and refreshing water. I stopped to splash some over myself and rinse my hands. It wasn't far now but it was taking every ounce of energy that I had. I stopped to take many photos of the old route out of the village and included some of the old door latches, the now disused gas lamps, ancient steps and old doors. I was very, very glad to see the tall cross marking the end of my day's route and which is mentioned in the guide book. This is the cross that the friars of the monastery of Los Milagros gave in memory of deceased pilgrims and which is now surrounded by all sorts of stones and mementos left by pilgrims. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL3ZggIgI628fQZ43iS80xV10-eR3SFoaUYLtI0f-gQlAWH1KE2JAt62rHqTvXnsSmV0msXcZYjJcXul-xjMauDYh6kqVHBr3_ckeWEaCDE1j7Pt8QVQbiYdd2MRUZyF3pptI420F0XqFS/s1600/IMG_7245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL3ZggIgI628fQZ43iS80xV10-eR3SFoaUYLtI0f-gQlAWH1KE2JAt62rHqTvXnsSmV0msXcZYjJcXul-xjMauDYh6kqVHBr3_ckeWEaCDE1j7Pt8QVQbiYdd2MRUZyF3pptI420F0XqFS/s320/IMG_7245.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The refreshing fountain at the exit from Portocamba when<br />heading towards Laza</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz_wIeE60pe3qYrdBiravWFelOLFMcAWVy1Tvwj8b-iAoj-UCzYKn2zWoeZGJiR_axgubvfLrXtzeQCyLU8ApUOs6YxXwfY7W2hYGNAZLDEPXvJr8KwhhRMM_BVbB39Y21GYwY-H1CyYRj/s1600/IMG_7244.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz_wIeE60pe3qYrdBiravWFelOLFMcAWVy1Tvwj8b-iAoj-UCzYKn2zWoeZGJiR_axgubvfLrXtzeQCyLU8ApUOs6YxXwfY7W2hYGNAZLDEPXvJr8KwhhRMM_BVbB39Y21GYwY-H1CyYRj/s200/IMG_7244.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old lamps no longer in use</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBZRsKVGE_JaQhi4AJTS-GRPEzI0PPSqD5rR5PyeTErHeqEa_aO43yNjsd7H5GCuzXVTW0w808VNX95CcI5U37EDbodeAkJixdHLHbl5ZOhUYiAiaa0iDLFGXukJJUiep95HI6i96AQX_R/s1600/IMG_7246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBZRsKVGE_JaQhi4AJTS-GRPEzI0PPSqD5rR5PyeTErHeqEa_aO43yNjsd7H5GCuzXVTW0w808VNX95CcI5U37EDbodeAkJixdHLHbl5ZOhUYiAiaa0iDLFGXukJJUiep95HI6i96AQX_R/s320/IMG_7246.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPeWX9IqyKZFooA4f46foAHWbR9rWyxuETd9ji-iMtkfUb_d2se8GeYgTAy0H694_y0PaCQD-bceGp2xFc-8PncunOd9Enj3JoSAXSRdjMELxYXCtyRkrxR1d100C7BzC1ysL2ot4Nxi2C/s1600/IMG_7247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPeWX9IqyKZFooA4f46foAHWbR9rWyxuETd9ji-iMtkfUb_d2se8GeYgTAy0H694_y0PaCQD-bceGp2xFc-8PncunOd9Enj3JoSAXSRdjMELxYXCtyRkrxR1d100C7BzC1ysL2ot4Nxi2C/s200/IMG_7247.JPG" width="200" /></a>There are some hand written directional signs which inform the pilgrim which way to go. There is no bar in Eiras which is just under half way between the cross and Laza but there is the cutest little balconied building where there is an honesty box with a flask of hot water and tea/coffee etc for pilgrims to help themselves and take a small break. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqo-V6trHQpuq_NmA8eF1xgnaUxMJnik1NzOkX2tVelko0dwPOKHP1_Y9UHznCn_oJs7Br3qBBUBLm6CU-sozcQHC4Y2y0gTvUBaBW0s7kG0ggPA3bwN4zguhIUAC1YpmZlcGnNv0ckU5G/s1600/IMG_7248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqo-V6trHQpuq_NmA8eF1xgnaUxMJnik1NzOkX2tVelko0dwPOKHP1_Y9UHznCn_oJs7Br3qBBUBLm6CU-sozcQHC4Y2y0gTvUBaBW0s7kG0ggPA3bwN4zguhIUAC1YpmZlcGnNv0ckU5G/s320/IMG_7248.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The base of the cross</td></tr>
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From the cross and down into Laza the way is all downhill and it leaves the legs shaking again. It is also a route of pines and at this time of year it is important to beware of the processionary pine caterpillars which for the first time ever I witnessed processing in long and scary lines across the roads and down the trees! I was VERY glad not to have the dogs with me on this occasion - they would have picked hairs up on their paws and this can spell disaster for dogs. <br />
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As we drove back down the hill and toward Laza and the hotel for the night we stopped to overlook the amazing rail works - it looks like there will be a huge viaduct across the valley above Laza and to an extent the scene is somewhat scarred at the moment. It is impressive engineering and possibly won't effect the pilgrim route. The infrastructure needed to service the works is amazing - drainage and access roads all have to be built in addition to the railway itself! The markers we passed were all concrete - not temporary things - so this is a huge amount of work alone. There are terraces hundreds of feet high and they must have had a plethora of theodolites... for some reason tis created hysterical laughter which I guess goes to show how tired I was! Writing this it doesn't seem nearly as funny!<br />
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For those who wish to make a note of up coming accommodation - the following looks like a good deal at Xunqueira de Ambia - Casa Tomas.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIxRftXgg69FVtfdWMfuhJn4TUkdvguk0tkv4635MNLyURTS9g1QApRo5XBZc4soRO05R_whL2HeHWL7MuqHSCebm24ygXE5E493crJxWrjoBmlcc23X1OlkDMyeqDRSWtaTIUz_8h0uYE/s1600/IMG_7242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIxRftXgg69FVtfdWMfuhJn4TUkdvguk0tkv4635MNLyURTS9g1QApRo5XBZc4soRO05R_whL2HeHWL7MuqHSCebm24ygXE5E493crJxWrjoBmlcc23X1OlkDMyeqDRSWtaTIUz_8h0uYE/s640/IMG_7242.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-68954314961757537822018-07-18T03:23:00.001-07:002018-07-18T03:23:43.896-07:00<div>
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<b>El Camino (Levante) A Gudiña (12.0km) to A Venda de Teresa (just beyond) Saturday 14th April, 2018</b></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLTPv0cqUr3lTTmHSVxtFAZwjTeP2oveGwSi6O_2YxGFfRUf7H3SP6prs8-LGdjsLQLjkdHWvKx45FCdCy23glaMZhyphenhyphenx73Gt5mkOCMGLh6ahX0v5O8MlMtgcU8zWrhU01my0jBJToAGeP4/s1600/DSCF0981.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLTPv0cqUr3lTTmHSVxtFAZwjTeP2oveGwSi6O_2YxGFfRUf7H3SP6prs8-LGdjsLQLjkdHWvKx45FCdCy23glaMZhyphenhyphenx73Gt5mkOCMGLh6ahX0v5O8MlMtgcU8zWrhU01my0jBJToAGeP4/s200/DSCF0981.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cross with the camino diversion<br />
options behind</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQNibrRpJN5E-xa-EUyGl9duoLKEtYljbz40z0ETcaKvqHCXixuD6tqbHbVq4bKjHj_vcu6vMn2gSAXay-4-3XEvGwihVO3FC1Cqcz2qQgZ0f4ir2EtvK7vth0aZU4fwMM-B7XIwYMSJ0l/s1600/DSCF0978.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQNibrRpJN5E-xa-EUyGl9duoLKEtYljbz40z0ETcaKvqHCXixuD6tqbHbVq4bKjHj_vcu6vMn2gSAXay-4-3XEvGwihVO3FC1Cqcz2qQgZ0f4ir2EtvK7vth0aZU4fwMM-B7XIwYMSJ0l/s320/DSCF0978.JPG" width="320" /></a>Having done a few extra km yesterday, the plan was to push on to do a few more today - around 14km, and thus reduce the 16.2km day originally planned for Sunday. It was clear in A Gudiña but soon turned foggy on the ascent into the surrounding hills. I love the art/sculptures on this part of the route - it's lovely to discover them on different stages. It always feels a bit like a treasure hunt.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeF8wcFxLVf92hIAtqbU60_Kiwjy-T3Xrgad6U3jHBE82PWspMhypg2SmKSVGLLwkLFe73fHvPzXUjsJiCpKIttJoUPdqdBN2bZLNM1jWA-9_6NYBwq62gsjEIj6tR5AlwcnFcjyR6M-lt/s1600/DSCF0980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeF8wcFxLVf92hIAtqbU60_Kiwjy-T3Xrgad6U3jHBE82PWspMhypg2SmKSVGLLwkLFe73fHvPzXUjsJiCpKIttJoUPdqdBN2bZLNM1jWA-9_6NYBwq62gsjEIj6tR5AlwcnFcjyR6M-lt/s400/DSCF0980.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With my pilgrim stamp from the bar - the only food/drink/rest stop for<br />
a few km! Stock up before heading out.</td></tr>
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We initially drove around the old part of the village courtesy of Google so I knew the route out! Old cobbles and crosses and way markers were clear and when I walked back it was interesting to see that this is one of the points where there are options of which camino to take. One by way of Verin and the other by way of Laza. The Laza route is the official "Levante" choice. <br />
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It is important to keep an eye out on these routes for this reason. It would be easy to accidentally take the wrong way or even miss the route all together if you skipping sections... as we noticed a few pilgrims do this time around.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY-0OOy-udO_CaD5t_7kvJiMwoQ9KEzEPHvzsXcTWSkbdVpCCIvGX0dP2NrGXGFQSE3E84yMM6aCPN4SzZVoTNDBPd_4LooQhA6L7iTOAcJKhRZh-gJgi1b8bO2vT-T15YHupvwXl_7nrr/s1600/DSCF0982.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY-0OOy-udO_CaD5t_7kvJiMwoQ9KEzEPHvzsXcTWSkbdVpCCIvGX0dP2NrGXGFQSE3E84yMM6aCPN4SzZVoTNDBPd_4LooQhA6L7iTOAcJKhRZh-gJgi1b8bO2vT-T15YHupvwXl_7nrr/s320/DSCF0982.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Make sure you take the right route - depending on the Camino<br />
of your choice!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitKPgOkOV0Iz18zBCHUp7iKmfpsro9BOBa0V7DhxLf1dfrTNiGCwT8jv1eDg5bw8pvqPDk0EPnNl5yVYsS2UbwQzDThJyQiTRuVBdOZOo6q5pzLf3hGqur6q0HcPL1JvhrVcuSjA3oBvfI/s1600/DSCF0983.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitKPgOkOV0Iz18zBCHUp7iKmfpsro9BOBa0V7DhxLf1dfrTNiGCwT8jv1eDg5bw8pvqPDk0EPnNl5yVYsS2UbwQzDThJyQiTRuVBdOZOo6q5pzLf3hGqur6q0HcPL1JvhrVcuSjA3oBvfI/s200/DSCF0983.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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I really love the way that the local people who live along the route go to so much trouble to decorate the signage or put out flowers or little Camino symbols. Often there are shells or even planted up hiking boots, various arrows or pictures of St James. I captured a few along the route this time and will include the photos on the relevant days. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicM8zq60zDisAHfbBnCAto8HS8VSZesIBMNH6bAck52NpYm0a-XRUyURHLHyhDxaRFC6yYdpJ5tvVYKQLcbpELaAHSPrLrcUlKyjQB9Kgj1aiKd_aiKM543t7ueuXD0BKwA87M_uLrOMLG/s1600/DSCF0984.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicM8zq60zDisAHfbBnCAto8HS8VSZesIBMNH6bAck52NpYm0a-XRUyURHLHyhDxaRFC6yYdpJ5tvVYKQLcbpELaAHSPrLrcUlKyjQB9Kgj1aiKd_aiKM543t7ueuXD0BKwA87M_uLrOMLG/s200/DSCF0984.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fog on the climb to Venda de Teresa</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU_rv2CEY-bW_sOYbJC5OCJf1e1jP1EYoYCLxhsPVSPkECPfCXd1IGqMOjiRnVAoN_r7j_VKvfjTe80TJ3YIV1U4fZ-Lbia_Uy3BsjGoaLgbkhSZaGH5RhMWBBgYE8FfQ6AqKT5bIYOdCy/s1600/IMG_7202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU_rv2CEY-bW_sOYbJC5OCJf1e1jP1EYoYCLxhsPVSPkECPfCXd1IGqMOjiRnVAoN_r7j_VKvfjTe80TJ3YIV1U4fZ-Lbia_Uy3BsjGoaLgbkhSZaGH5RhMWBBgYE8FfQ6AqKT5bIYOdCy/s200/IMG_7202.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I stopped to put on my fluorescent<br />
tabard as although the photograph<br />
doesn't show it well, it was actually<br />
quite misty here! Some "muy crujente"<br />
nuts were a welcome snack here too!</td></tr>
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With tired, aching and stiff legs I entered Bar Peregrino in A Gudiña were a very nice man made up a bocadillo con jamon which we shared for lunch and issues my first sello of the trip. From here on they will be harder to find as there are fewer ayuntamientos and bars! There are some pilgrim hostels and some cute little bar/coffee stops, some with their special shell stamps and we were lucky enough to be able to keep up with the stamping. The barman then pointed me in the right direction, warning that there are no more food stops for some time and to the point where the camino divides in two - one heading to Laza (the route I needed to take to stay true to the Levante) and the other to Verin, which I think is also a rider's route.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG0I7_s5dv74D28VZLlNITtQK4i8sXej32qFXlpqsF2arDYuP9Qd1RJXAXSpfhXhA8lKvFaGhJMbdzfpfI7KI6xDvTJ7BZO2JZCUVRoICRylfUlt61vo1MNHa-t85lKdmLGYokeIlPvhY-/s1600/IMG_7210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG0I7_s5dv74D28VZLlNITtQK4i8sXej32qFXlpqsF2arDYuP9Qd1RJXAXSpfhXhA8lKvFaGhJMbdzfpfI7KI6xDvTJ7BZO2JZCUVRoICRylfUlt61vo1MNHa-t85lKdmLGYokeIlPvhY-/s200/IMG_7210.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiygtuN_w_I_ZVHt6sonoi_2uWv9vvlrWWXQQC2ycrjJOzXRuMd2A3VzqZ-O1zOAcnT_8y5Ue6T1o3-gVkNPNAYh6OuZFAXxqEwagn6hr0z7PG3HNLpW2rEPnoX_pSHX_GTXSWxTX4cL3YV/s1600/IMG_7209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiygtuN_w_I_ZVHt6sonoi_2uWv9vvlrWWXQQC2ycrjJOzXRuMd2A3VzqZ-O1zOAcnT_8y5Ue6T1o3-gVkNPNAYh6OuZFAXxqEwagn6hr0z7PG3HNLpW2rEPnoX_pSHX_GTXSWxTX4cL3YV/s200/IMG_7209.JPG" width="200" /></a>The climb is not hard on the road, but it does continue up a long way. Due to it being tar the going is quite fast and I covered a lot of ground in a much shorter time frame. As the fog cleared the views were spectacular over the Encore das Portas reservoir and on the maps the word "alto" appears frequently! We know we are in for a lot of up and down over the next few days. I thought that Cebreros was going to be the hardest part of the route, but Galicia is much more strenuous. It is mostly made up of mountains, whereas the Cebreros crossing was really just a belt of mountains to cross. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjznOpEO3m-96Jype1Cah7VAqM9gMVT7H08bLO3-c41FTItOFRm5WicHkHSfIEQzwg5SihoSPCBrMcEfc6o0lVbl0TnyckFQxETzNgfF7gpNPeH7s2RUI30xvuzVRHpfDD7UGSfp9L-M4kQ/s1600/IMG_7211.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjznOpEO3m-96Jype1Cah7VAqM9gMVT7H08bLO3-c41FTItOFRm5WicHkHSfIEQzwg5SihoSPCBrMcEfc6o0lVbl0TnyckFQxETzNgfF7gpNPeH7s2RUI30xvuzVRHpfDD7UGSfp9L-M4kQ/s320/IMG_7211.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Abandoned bus stop and pilgrim fountain at Venta da Copela</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyBSlcreCzrpPJ4tpp3R1PuMpcM4t96Ey7PTYJiH0_peAYNKjFWpJMGj_KurdSku8errJO44innydSrxAwkHcsz6YnNrm940pMuyysfU_S63CWROXzfaJg4O_NJzMDQUmvbFfass4Qdvp-/s1600/IMG_7212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyBSlcreCzrpPJ4tpp3R1PuMpcM4t96Ey7PTYJiH0_peAYNKjFWpJMGj_KurdSku8errJO44innydSrxAwkHcsz6YnNrm940pMuyysfU_S63CWROXzfaJg4O_NJzMDQUmvbFfass4Qdvp-/s200/IMG_7212.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Track beyond Venta da Copela</td></tr>
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Eventually we turn off the road and take a track to Venda de Teresa. Wow, these really are forgotten villages with only a small handful of people. There were a few younger ladies with children, but I feel for them and wonder how much longer places like this will survive. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWDbYsggf6AWYs6bhweBleU4_IVhXlsdEs4I13vbaIZiqmNjEg3lhec9_nPowbMkgeKFDmNP0rQ9CiEcUqrxBDQg6iMnACsU21wds7nPLn14hmYi906m4OjCGy3oI-wQnaVA5VnA26ofJI/s1600/DSCF0993.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWDbYsggf6AWYs6bhweBleU4_IVhXlsdEs4I13vbaIZiqmNjEg3lhec9_nPowbMkgeKFDmNP0rQ9CiEcUqrxBDQg6iMnACsU21wds7nPLn14hmYi906m4OjCGy3oI-wQnaVA5VnA26ofJI/s320/DSCF0993.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fascinated at the old dilapidated houses and then one, all<br />
alone, perfectly renovated in the middle! I'm astonished<br />
that some of the modern generations still live here - but<br />
maybe it is affordable, or a family home?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As usual there was the varied assortment of campo dogs, all wary eyed or barking out a warning that someone was on the road. Some slept or turned one eye to watch me pass. It was on this part of the walk that I met a very friendly Spanish lady, possibly she had never been much further than this village (the one beyond V de Teresa - Venta da Copela) who asked why I didn't have a walking stick. I initially did not know the word and she patted at hers enthusiastically. I laughed and showed her my modern telescopic walking pole hooked onto my backpack. She in turn roared with laughter in return. She was very pleased to know that I did at least have a stick! One of moving things she said when she asked me if I walked with a companion and I replied that I walk alone was - that one is never alone on the Camino, nature and everyone we meet is part of our journey and all those who have gone before are with us... I assumed from this exchange and by her gestures that she basically meant "God is all around us". <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ikA-UuEBfSmd3HQVz5JRbwBzeNyWAUWcrRvErsLH714BfNHAhZ5Zd3XU1uSKHmK2xLlXSihG_BKZUYWpBzuwFAKc3ZGiG3N-fOTAFBJXpJL2IhNR-YEgCtfIvQwWKRfyP0F-CS7wepcd/s1600/DSCF0994.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4ikA-UuEBfSmd3HQVz5JRbwBzeNyWAUWcrRvErsLH714BfNHAhZ5Zd3XU1uSKHmK2xLlXSihG_BKZUYWpBzuwFAKc3ZGiG3N-fOTAFBJXpJL2IhNR-YEgCtfIvQwWKRfyP0F-CS7wepcd/s200/DSCF0994.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the many campo dogs</td></tr>
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The sun came out to greet me as I neared the "Alto" and I was fascinated at how every now and again, amidst the dilapidated houses, one would be totally renovated with modern windows, pristine walls and doors and a new car outside. I'm amazed that modern generations still choose to live here... there is nothing here, but maybe they are family homes, or it is cheap and the commute not to tedious, although having done a commute from the top of a mountain to a town regularly from one of our homes in South Africa, I know I would get fed up with it after some time! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCITpbGAq1V0iizQLWalhQbVCcZuzIPHAMmNQsVjjM55XJl74tD3qeRDnnHnSwP3m5o_tNubJxjrQmSCbGk2iMBSy3C_hWxILzCiVdRyK7ctYjFTDf1FJnzQq51hjVuh_KAPPAEcy-lasJ/s1600/IMG_7214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCITpbGAq1V0iizQLWalhQbVCcZuzIPHAMmNQsVjjM55XJl74tD3qeRDnnHnSwP3m5o_tNubJxjrQmSCbGk2iMBSy3C_hWxILzCiVdRyK7ctYjFTDf1FJnzQq51hjVuh_KAPPAEcy-lasJ/s320/IMG_7214.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Linéa Velocidad just below Venta da Copela</td></tr>
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Where I met up with Michael the new Linéa Velocidad workings stretched below. The engineering never ceases to fascinate me. It isn't effecting the Camino here yet, and may not... it will depend where the route goes. For now, they are building the main tunnels, bridges and "complicated" parts, I hadn't realised they did it that way... it then appears they will join it all together, linking them together with the rail tracks. At some point it will mean that someone could walk the various sections of the camino as I did in the beginning from Valencia to Canals - taking the train out to different points and walking back or walking out and taking the train back. The line will join Madrid - Zamora - Puebla de Sanabria - Lubían - Ourense and on into Galicia. I could have done the whole of the Zamora to Ourense section by train, had it been open.<br />
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We drove back to A Gudiña where Michael had found good coffee and tapas to end the day with an ice cold beer - Estrella, perfect Spanish style. I wasn't keen on the tuna empanada but welcomed the sit down. My legs and body were aching and tired, still trying to recover from the late night and lack of sleep on the first day followed by being thrown in at the deep end climbing mountains, quite a shock after living in Norfolk for two years! Despite stretching, muscles seize up really fast! Between getting in the car and arriving at the bar - maybe 15 minutes, I could hardly get out of it let alone walk down the 3 steps to the door! I must have looked about 306! I certainly felt it in that moment. However, once moving it's not so bad, but I always dread the getting up and getting going again. That is until around day 4 when everything becomes easy and flowing again and one walks through the barrier and gets into walking mode. By day 10 I always feel like I could walk forever - always just in time to come home! <br />
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<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-88261810903927620292018-06-15T08:06:00.004-07:002018-07-18T01:20:06.532-07:00<div>
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<b>El Camino (Levante) La Canda to Alto do Canizo just before the footbridge in A Gudiña (12.3km) Friday 13th April, 2018</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizNH0b3EskNFRtokdLF8mtt9nXGxDKCyo8PeP_I9BM_NLJ_Hkr3r9FzGVjwCWMGQA1sqGADWKMubVJGk3jB_xICv1AgYUylkZW0rKlJk4A_-UwrhQvxv5jPMwRArhyphenhyphendgwnXlMVexPmIerc/s1600/DSCF0942.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizNH0b3EskNFRtokdLF8mtt9nXGxDKCyo8PeP_I9BM_NLJ_Hkr3r9FzGVjwCWMGQA1sqGADWKMubVJGk3jB_xICv1AgYUylkZW0rKlJk4A_-UwrhQvxv5jPMwRArhyphenhyphendgwnXlMVexPmIerc/s400/DSCF0942.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And I'm Back!! Four years on, but starting from where I left off. Yay!!</td></tr>
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Well it all got off to a bit of a hair raising start! All seemed to be going well on the Thursday we were flying out to Spain, arriving in good time, checking the car into the off airport parking and getting the bus into Heathrow. Check in was interesting, none of the machines were working and the Aussies behind us thought it was just them, but we ended up having a bit of a laugh with them when the machines rejected UK citizens as well. <br />
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It has been some time since I went through Heathrow. On returning to the UK we drove through via the EuroTunnel and of course, we had flown from RSA to Spain before that and had been resident in Spain for three years. My last visit into London had probably been around 2005! Finding that everything is automated, including having to check and tag our own bags was quite something. Should I ask myself if I am carrying any forbidden substances or if I have left my bags unattended at any time? Customs was similar, nobody really present and everything left to machines. I'm guessing this is to improve security but overall it felt much more exposed and much less secure. Anyway, all went well until we got on the plane and discovered that Heathrow baggage handling had gone to hell in a hand basket.... what DOES that mean?! Well in our case, it meant over an hour delay. With our connecting flight only 45 minutes after landing, there was little chance of us making it. We lived in hope and on arrival sprinted to the gate - we were out of luck. The plane had left 2 minutes before we got there. Fortunately, due to our sprint, we were only third in the queue for Customer Help. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My first shells and arrows this trip</td></tr>
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The lady at the desk was not willing to phone ahead to our hotel or car hire - hmmm, I kind of understand but considering how hard it is to change things quickly over the phone in a different language and that it wasn't our problem that the service had turned to s*@t, I wasn't that impressed. We were allowed to use their phone to make any changes, which we did after trying all sorts of alternatives which included:<br />
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<ul>
<li>Fly to Barcelona and then back to A Coruña (ended up fully booked)</li>
<li>Fly to Santiago and then bus to A Coruña - arriving midnight and proceed to sort everything out (reaching our hotel maybe 04.00)</li>
<li>Fly to A Conuña the next day - which in effect would mean two days out of the Camino</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKMUVsEInPDU6C3oxPbzf-KEBxty7tDNne9dSfSl8bDSkCLK1S8csc2D2iPuYwXfETxGqLTBefbzJnpaDPUl5eg4OefqIlMX2ddBHv4x5IBksstdtlIvQFlB3z26-2JaVQsgbe2LD2q1Ko/s1600/DSCF0945.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKMUVsEInPDU6C3oxPbzf-KEBxty7tDNne9dSfSl8bDSkCLK1S8csc2D2iPuYwXfETxGqLTBefbzJnpaDPUl5eg4OefqIlMX2ddBHv4x5IBksstdtlIvQFlB3z26-2JaVQsgbe2LD2q1Ko/s320/DSCF0945.JPG" width="320" /></a>None of the above were options that would work for us. It seemed to me that the best option was to see if our car hire company would allow us to pick up in Madrid and drop off in A Coruña and then drive 5 hours to Ourense that night. The lady on the desk could not understand at first because if our car was due to be collected in A Coruña, she assumed that is where we were staying... she didn't really get that flying to Santiago, then taking a bus another hour further north in order to collect a car to drive back 2 hours south made no sense! The whole of that trip would take possibly another 11 hours to get to Ourense - collecting a car in Madrid and driving straight to Ourense would only be around 7 hours (including the pick up time, going to refunds for the flight and car hire costs, the drive itself and breaks). After much to-ing and fro-ing, that is finally what we did.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifZoMp-ICcxcmEOx9kOEcVo_XvLfUjIu3Jq2tKOX-cBeWUJxEH9Y05iIpQQXQ2Pm4Yb1SxSkOx1nXREMDaydLIiDHX1u17BLq46E7U-iwMBbGBcv17IDAlGkKuVOKoGPM364TRLZTNOemE/s1600/DSCF0946.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifZoMp-ICcxcmEOx9kOEcVo_XvLfUjIu3Jq2tKOX-cBeWUJxEH9Y05iIpQQXQ2Pm4Yb1SxSkOx1nXREMDaydLIiDHX1u17BLq46E7U-iwMBbGBcv17IDAlGkKuVOKoGPM364TRLZTNOemE/s200/DSCF0946.JPG" width="200" /></a>We played merry-go-rounds with the baggage and some Americans also trying to reclaim late bags, collected the car and paid the extra for the different collection/drop off option, headed to refunds to put in a claim for the flight inconvenience and the additional hire costs, collected money from the ATM (ah Euros at last), had my first cortado of the trip (yum) and hit the roads out of Madrid.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meltwaters were running fast and high and there was<br />
still snow on the mountains in many places. </td></tr>
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We decided on the scenic route - although much of it ended up being in the dark and were actually delighted we did this as it followed much of the camino we had covered since Toledo. It was lovely to relive the route, the names of the places we had passed through and revisit memories from past trips. We had a couple of breaks, picked up some nibbles for the walk that was going to come all to early the next day and some cinnamon artisanal bread. We finally arrived at the Hotel Eurostars Auriense at around midnight, checked in with a lovely and friendly lady on the front desk who also had fabulous English (not that we wanted her to have to speak to us in English - she just deserves the compliment) and headed to bed. After unpacking and getting everything set up for the early start (actually later that morning) we eventually got to bed at 02.00 - the alarm was due to go off at 06.30!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgQy05YhYZuj9DjS96Z0Z6y8Xpml6X0RLWejDlghe5wFZlmOVXRwbv53Fwa2LsyIGEdeXhhQ4ksSzNNGfL_q_Hlu2SRXJeankWZCMqEgqsMf-RwBsUAuMBGaLiPFKAgTQdbbhZ-BWLxWKt/s1600/DSCF0948.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgQy05YhYZuj9DjS96Z0Z6y8Xpml6X0RLWejDlghe5wFZlmOVXRwbv53Fwa2LsyIGEdeXhhQ4ksSzNNGfL_q_Hlu2SRXJeankWZCMqEgqsMf-RwBsUAuMBGaLiPFKAgTQdbbhZ-BWLxWKt/s320/DSCF0948.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Ughhhh! Four and a half hours of sleep and an hour's drive through mountains to the start point. Then a 12.3km walk! What was I thinking! I have to say that I have never been so tired on the camino. It was HARD! By the end I hardly knew how to put one foot in front of the other. I felt exhausted. Walking on so little sleep is really tough and I had no idea that it was going to effect me that way. It was a fabulous first day, but I seriously wouldn't recommend it and I wouldn't do it again! The plan for next time is to build in an extra day in front of the first walking day in order to rest up and prepare but also for it to provide a buffer just in case anything like our previous day's delays should happen again. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLmmPba4FoUcL2IItb9RhIKslKrI1U3XyNQo5KD215eWVT8b0LgnSgmWzFK_GxlMfYYZgZVOlQpUO8RNIQiaDRZK6bJ3Mtw8R6Vxzs6iyLKRIMjUDt27Hcpg3L3hVYwAexeacisa7l65A/s1600/DSCF0949.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLmmPba4FoUcL2IItb9RhIKslKrI1U3XyNQo5KD215eWVT8b0LgnSgmWzFK_GxlMfYYZgZVOlQpUO8RNIQiaDRZK6bJ3Mtw8R6Vxzs6iyLKRIMjUDt27Hcpg3L3hVYwAexeacisa7l65A/s320/DSCF0949.JPG" width="320" /></a> When we arrived just above La Canda it was really quite chilly and the breeze from the still snow capped mountains meant I was glad of my snood, hat, gloves and jacket! In fact, the snowmelt must have been recent - the rivers and streams were running very high and fast and many of the paths over the week were flooded or very wet and muddy. If I had attempted to walk a few weeks before, the chances are some of the passes may have been impassible, or the floods so high I couldn't have got through. I could now see why in the guide book there are places where it offers alternative routes for when it has been very wet or it suggests care is taken due to slippery rocks! The little stone bridge mentioned in the guidebook was so much further on than I had expected, but the walk was quiet and superb and as so often on this camino, quiet and devoid of pilgrims. Sadly, those coming out of Lubían were walking along the road and many had missed the beautiful walk I had done on my last trip and the route that would bring them out at the starting point which I had left from on that first morning. They missed some stunning scenery and woodland paths and were going to go from unnecessary road walking to more (but necessary because it is actually the camino) road walking the next day. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-cFX1pCByuAVmee0uToD42IZ1PUL6ANbjFwzVG6h_RZvAUjs43K9PqsggHsi8adK7GCM_w1Wx7qUJY1g27nCVySAHi5Tm-Dczn8IkMRVKPGyF498E_P19V7I9DjmWL3ea41ORbn0ZliDm/s1600/DSCF0950.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-cFX1pCByuAVmee0uToD42IZ1PUL6ANbjFwzVG6h_RZvAUjs43K9PqsggHsi8adK7GCM_w1Wx7qUJY1g27nCVySAHi5Tm-Dczn8IkMRVKPGyF498E_P19V7I9DjmWL3ea41ORbn0ZliDm/s320/DSCF0950.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEhjYjfIQuLw71CTGVuVtZaAwrcVHGt67mKRI4rjQcF53Gei3qmhfRLJ9gkezBl23jlcggM1QTlKq5EuKEwSXQJdLCDVOS4Vn4Re9r1rCXiEreW1LluN6V8r28Qs5mvy3hyphenhyphen-dQwftHn2ON/s1600/DSCF0951.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEhjYjfIQuLw71CTGVuVtZaAwrcVHGt67mKRI4rjQcF53Gei3qmhfRLJ9gkezBl23jlcggM1QTlKq5EuKEwSXQJdLCDVOS4Vn4Re9r1rCXiEreW1LluN6V8r28Qs5mvy3hyphenhyphen-dQwftHn2ON/s320/DSCF0951.JPG" width="320" /></a>The most tiring part was hopping from one side to the other trying to avoid mud and puddles, rushing meltwater and flooding. I often had to hug the bank or climb onto a wall to keep my feet dry. There were some parts where the floods were deep and long, covering a large proportion of the path. One of these I was able to avoid by clambering over a wall and into a field next to the path, but I had to do a bit of a leap in order to land on dry ground and get back on the path. Despite all this, I only got one very muddy foot when I thought I was on a firm spot and then sank fast! I had been admiring the sound of the cuckoo, the birdsong and babbling brooks - but<br />
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this was soon followed up by the cry of "Oh Bugger" when I almost lost my shoe.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Xdc5Epq4TB4HfHg5ftqeivIGjSCAvBeFpRBDcWFGT0LDNyWT5nWLFb-ph0xH-Y4UHi1VeU1d6UjAf45X6E9sh5eGFe2BnvOkotddz7fNuyqhOn8EjhLBF5FE7LtQHEXC2hDAMOvsVGKT/s1600/IMG_7183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Xdc5Epq4TB4HfHg5ftqeivIGjSCAvBeFpRBDcWFGT0LDNyWT5nWLFb-ph0xH-Y4UHi1VeU1d6UjAf45X6E9sh5eGFe2BnvOkotddz7fNuyqhOn8EjhLBF5FE7LtQHEXC2hDAMOvsVGKT/s200/IMG_7183.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Markers were like friends<br />
upon the way, many artist<br />
sculptures of St James</td></tr>
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As shown in the photos, there were several fords, granite lines and bridges to help the pilgrim continue on their way. I only met three other pilgrims on the country route today and so as so often on the Levante, I had the whole Camino to myself. The forest I passed through had amazing lichens. The day turned hotter and it was very, very tiring on the uphill stretches, of which there were more than just a few! Not only do I now live in Norfolk, a county close to sea level and not known for its hills, but I was completely drained after the journey the day before and lack of sleep. We have decided for sure to book an extra day next time, just as a buffer or recovery day! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTx8Ykcd695qfITxeBTAWFkIgNzTyZ-DEfGW4EMLL3K2mOISETrJ5GO9wZD9obWAozE9U1tm9ZszisuS6qycm1tkw50RnvOunStpQhnfTHut-uDoZnTT4T-uTc5dnpmDVvaN8ZEVBqYrLQ/s1600/IMG_7184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTx8Ykcd695qfITxeBTAWFkIgNzTyZ-DEfGW4EMLL3K2mOISETrJ5GO9wZD9obWAozE9U1tm9ZszisuS6qycm1tkw50RnvOunStpQhnfTHut-uDoZnTT4T-uTc5dnpmDVvaN8ZEVBqYrLQ/s200/IMG_7184.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This area has a lot of water and snow<br />
melt, there are granite slabs laid to<br />
make a pathway raised above<br />
some muddy parts.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The way was very well marked and clear including some to guide us around fords without foot crossings. I was very grateful for meeting Michael (initially with the cortado that I have so missed since being in England) and then at midday, hearing he had located a good bar for lunch - Don Pepe Bar. The menu del día was paella - declicious (!) although I'm not sure what the Valencian's would say as it was sea food! I'm sure this is because we are in Galicia, the capital of Spanish sea food, but even so - considering the Spanish claim that seafood paella is an "English corruption"! This one had mucho sabor and was only 5 Euros! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix51UQYxCf2ooNVgJ_opVCyAynfXfFCipWlaXFwieOQdISTqHh8YQaqazPphZEaLp0y93OcjIV3GIPY-I8VII_M0HqO1E6RZcp-tNmCI4WYHIhi38m4fjK8qubefLSlrFaMPmCDB0C0OAz/s1600/IMG_7188.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix51UQYxCf2ooNVgJ_opVCyAynfXfFCipWlaXFwieOQdISTqHh8YQaqazPphZEaLp0y93OcjIV3GIPY-I8VII_M0HqO1E6RZcp-tNmCI4WYHIhi38m4fjK8qubefLSlrFaMPmCDB0C0OAz/s320/IMG_7188.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love the drinking fountains along the way,<br />
and they all seem to work!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The village seemed like many here, one of an ageing population where all the young people have deserted it, a bit like in the Middle Ages when the Black Death created many a deserted village. In fact in O Pereiro there were amazing houses with iron balconies and what looked like plague crosses on the door... surely not! We thought the bar must be struggling, but at 13.30 the place came alive and was bursting to the seams! Construction workers and famers from all around arrived out of thin air! The place was buzzing and the atmosphere hearty and convivial. We were so pleased and welcomed the caña, ice cold, that came with lunch - it was just what we needed!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-CfA28hKNhbxsRSqSdW9Z_fkFXWpiZ_XA0sE9vH82ufrfqnt71U9hAiNRXHNWg5fcbPtzlH4ATKYirWeaHkShnLxI6xq4cmptjrdbHXiebvMBydWWDHC1GWCsVex4bZu_G_YCl-OhJTds/s1600/IMG_7194.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-CfA28hKNhbxsRSqSdW9Z_fkFXWpiZ_XA0sE9vH82ufrfqnt71U9hAiNRXHNWg5fcbPtzlH4ATKYirWeaHkShnLxI6xq4cmptjrdbHXiebvMBydWWDHC1GWCsVex4bZu_G_YCl-OhJTds/s320/IMG_7194.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Up, up and more up - over what looked like Spanish "Tarr" <br />
steps. My legs were like jelly and I hardly knew how<br />
to put one foot in front of the other.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy8AKCIkereDI_lu29l-rGt_bt5t6987-z7h0ZcJvbGJLnrDM24EinOXrJp3b4ODX0AuU6QQ8bxJbE7nhuAJqhb3KDcIfCCwWU4wrnqivVB_toy5XDhblX0VdhZ07P6-ztxwjAiL1BFUiX/s1600/IMG_7195.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1280" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy8AKCIkereDI_lu29l-rGt_bt5t6987-z7h0ZcJvbGJLnrDM24EinOXrJp3b4ODX0AuU6QQ8bxJbE7nhuAJqhb3KDcIfCCwWU4wrnqivVB_toy5XDhblX0VdhZ07P6-ztxwjAiL1BFUiX/s200/IMG_7195.JPG" width="200" /></a>The walk after lunch was tough and exhausting. The lack of sleep and journey really took its toll and I only once before had I felt like this and wondered if I could make it. I was stopping every few metres and often sitting and resting to regain energy. It was such a relief to see Michael coming towards me to spur me on for the last kilometre or so into A Gudiña and my 1000km landmark, lying on a bench and eating some of the "pan con canela" artisan bread we had bought the day before. Perfect. I was very glad to be on my way back to the hotel (via Mercadona - gosh I have missed Spanish shopping) and a good night's sleep! <br />
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Photos from the day...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3JwhqV6jNt0yxBlJW2KyCvOKwoaiFyQIY8Y1xkD92S1dEWpU-LvSdtDAWijRwIG3GTVJ_XcAaVRITAzWgdv8XpY4YDWLU3dXVAMIdT7p5Yn6rcZh2q5DLusfsOSFZHogeN1yRKMAE9zc_/s1600/DSCF0954.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3JwhqV6jNt0yxBlJW2KyCvOKwoaiFyQIY8Y1xkD92S1dEWpU-LvSdtDAWijRwIG3GTVJ_XcAaVRITAzWgdv8XpY4YDWLU3dXVAMIdT7p5Yn6rcZh2q5DLusfsOSFZHogeN1yRKMAE9zc_/s320/DSCF0954.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Love these washing areas. Pretty much every village has one and many are still used! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaj18WvCLarg7z2GArU1Kxlyvx5o0SxYUz0rbnIgkQi129TkpqAf2dfOloCCKO0n4tUcCHixTM4Kv22QAxT9BRnjpB2Ck13vskZqvwjSVJI-8d6dmjDFOT1a3_jErsi3Ecw51CQ5IuklIn/s1600/DSCF0956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaj18WvCLarg7z2GArU1Kxlyvx5o0SxYUz0rbnIgkQi129TkpqAf2dfOloCCKO0n4tUcCHixTM4Kv22QAxT9BRnjpB2Ck13vskZqvwjSVJI-8d6dmjDFOT1a3_jErsi3Ecw51CQ5IuklIn/s200/DSCF0956.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now the routes have joined together, the<br />Via de la Plata route is the one named<br />on the signs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9R_L_c_xjhDdqlztRfGD06bttpKnpSHY6U50FzS3MHC_zQGrVzxMFNxToWZReNQerBXAavF8cqiI-Eb3dKj-PRJf7gRGiD68ivVeNjDpBdK-mQUdswwqa-pFS5ab9CPZr9b7bkf1v_mKe/s1600/DSCF0957.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9R_L_c_xjhDdqlztRfGD06bttpKnpSHY6U50FzS3MHC_zQGrVzxMFNxToWZReNQerBXAavF8cqiI-Eb3dKj-PRJf7gRGiD68ivVeNjDpBdK-mQUdswwqa-pFS5ab9CPZr9b7bkf1v_mKe/s320/DSCF0957.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning coffee break - wow I miss Spanish Cortado!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi36obBydB7bhnKsRwZzewm3WG7ow_li5eaA7qOtRYrh3wEcw9Qdf1qcJgzya6XCULBFB3kfEREb6J2Gk8sZB7VjbzkwZXI4gm0x6l03dM-ntI5OETWJ0euVWFvUHqx5RkM1jr8bRAHRLAs/s1600/DSCF0976.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi36obBydB7bhnKsRwZzewm3WG7ow_li5eaA7qOtRYrh3wEcw9Qdf1qcJgzya6XCULBFB3kfEREb6J2Gk8sZB7VjbzkwZXI4gm0x6l03dM-ntI5OETWJ0euVWFvUHqx5RkM1jr8bRAHRLAs/s200/DSCF0976.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Equestrian diversion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Via de la Plata route is now the main one signed, but I have to read the Levante guide book because sometimes it chooses a different route - the Mozarabe for example, or even a slightly different path, sometimes only for a few metres. There are also equestrian diversions frequently mentioned on this part of the route as riders head through Galicia on the last part of the Camino. It is apparently wise to get an official guide to take you and sometimes the cities must be notified in advance if you are going to ride through them. This applies for sure when entering Santiago. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbUg4_S7Zzy2W5YGA0bzQLSDzhGLPpmELfOdObZtnxpVoTrVM43HAZTMpt8kX5ndyfc-IlWozfSTlERvjvH5ZJPlTblcymv7oyIH5eBJzLZMBTW23CQYsYn1mI3xsR1zL46R_icYZQjWLo/s1600/DSCF0974.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbUg4_S7Zzy2W5YGA0bzQLSDzhGLPpmELfOdObZtnxpVoTrVM43HAZTMpt8kX5ndyfc-IlWozfSTlERvjvH5ZJPlTblcymv7oyIH5eBJzLZMBTW23CQYsYn1mI3xsR1zL46R_icYZQjWLo/s640/DSCF0974.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Really, really exhausted today after only a few hours sleep and a lot of travel the day before but also an amazing feeling<br />to have now reached my 1000km mark! Pretty much right where this bench is located too!</td></tr>
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<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-77773016206256335062015-08-18T08:21:00.003-07:002015-08-18T08:21:32.933-07:00El Camino Levante ROUTE CHANGES - Zamora to Galician Border<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: red; font-size: large;">The following notes and map changes are those found during my walk in May 2014.</span></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmgPoY1Dw3i2Fv9LpyRJDTHBtD_bEAEi9LN7gfrMH8-swOqy90w5WeRTdGE7Oqi81jR4ZD00AqsIhhXZFrKri5VCuoxjwUkBiG9fAV4Xa-ul7Lq0PTHiPmOx7hYeEa93ZtuIP2e5xGfIqp/s1600/IMG_6922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmgPoY1Dw3i2Fv9LpyRJDTHBtD_bEAEi9LN7gfrMH8-swOqy90w5WeRTdGE7Oqi81jR4ZD00AqsIhhXZFrKri5VCuoxjwUkBiG9fAV4Xa-ul7Lq0PTHiPmOx7hYeEa93ZtuIP2e5xGfIqp/s320/IMG_6922.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There are so many changes and problems<br />
on this section of the Camino Levante<br />
and Via de la Plata, that often other pilgrims<br />
build arrows to keep their fellow travelers<br />
on track. Inspired by this and on my<br />
way home, I returned to a place where previously<br />
I had been lost, in order to build this.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There are major works taking place especially in the section around Pueblo de Sanabria and up to the Galician border. Often there are many long sections on busy and dangerous main roads, with heavy works traffic carrying hardcore building materials for the new railway. In some places there are diversions and the Camino continues off road, but often there are long stretches of tar and no off road route. They can also add on many additional km that the pilgrim is not expecting and for which they may not have made provision. These notes are to help others plan more or make alternative arrangements if they wish. I am sure that over time the route will re-establish and there will once again be beautiful off road walking and great Camino signage, but for now, it can be tiring and frustrating having to walk on so much tar and sometimes with direction markers missing. There was more than one occasion when I, or my fellow peregrinos, walked long distances out of our way or took wrong turns and had to retrace our steps. On one occasion this meant I was very dehydrated, as I had expected to reach a village and water much sooner but was hopelessly out of my way and with the huge, steep sides of the construction work blocking my path.<br />
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<b>At Roales after leaving Zamora:</b> The camino takes the route marked on the map section below, you need to look for the arrows, which are clear, but because they are not where you expect, it is easy to miss them initially. I have no idea why it has taken this small diversion, as there seems to be a track in the original place and I saw other locals, walking their dogs, on it.<br />
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<b>Before reaching Montamarta:</b> This is where I built my arrow pictured above and another on the other side of the bridge. On 7th May 2014 there were no markers whatsoever. Even on returning, on the drive back to Granada, there were many pilgrims looking for the way, some heading off onto the main road and others wandering aimlessly on other tracks. Some we could divert and set correctly on their way, others were too far away from us. Many, just as when I walked it, were on the main and busy N-630 and lorries got very close, some sounding their horns. It is not a pleasant section to walk on the road and it is also not necessary as the track alongside is much nicer and more peaceful. Also, once you are on it - the markers are clear, but it is by the new bridge (at the time I thought it was a road but I later discovered it is a railway) that everyone got lost as one has to double back on oneself and go in a kind of loop and then "over" the bridge before turning right. The loop and area of confusion are marked by my black pen on the map with an arrow on top. The other black line marks the track of the new superfast railway line.<br />
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<b>After Montamarta and before Fontanillas de Castro:</b> This is a major nightmare!! Certainly it was in May 2014 and so busy with construction. Diversions everywhere, signs missing and many pilgrims just giving up and taking the main road all the way. The sad thing is that again, if you can get to the Camino (now marked Via de la Plata) then the route is beautiful, but here are many suggestions of how to get to the actual camino and many little tracks that could get you there, but the railway cuts right across them all. Hopefully there will be some underpasses and footbridges built to take the peregrino over the rail tracks and onto the off road route again once it is built, but during my walk, they were building over them almost faster than you could walk it. Even the track that I eventually found just ahead of the construction will have now been built over - possibly this would have been the case in the next few days after I passed. If possibly I would suggest that if there is a bus from Roales to Granja de Moreruela, it might be worth considering taking it and skipping this section until the works are complete. However, the Amigos that look after these sections may publish up to date information on their websites or know more about the current state of affairs. I have since found notes about other routes on websites which keep pilgrims informed about potential hazards that may impede their route.<br />
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<b>Route to Granja de Moreruela and beyond:</b> This was a horrendous situation and many, many of us got lost and walked miles out of our way! It was impossible to get back across without turning around, as the steep railway cutting here made it impassible and the speed of the construction trucks and the size of them would have made it scary and life threatening to try and cross illegally. Two pilgrims that marched past me at a pace I saw again, arriving in Granja de Moreruela after me (!) by quite some time - and I had gone out of my way, turned around, and walked a long way back! They must have really had a long trek and the day was particularly hot and without shade walking along the soft sand dug up and disturbed by the constructors. Again, my black pen lines shows the "actual" route - very little of which is on the actual camino yellow marked route.<br />
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<b>Before Faramontanos de Tábara:</b> I have no idea why this has been changed. The tracks are still there and it looks like they can be walked, but the markers clearly take the pilgrim on the route I have now marked in black pen on the map below. It is long, can be hot and has little shade. There is however a fabulous little bar on the left serving wonderfully cold beer as you enter the village of Faramontanos! <br />
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<b>Before Tábara:</b> The new railway route crosses the track but the signs are good and have notices for diversion. The way is quite obvious. However, nearing Tábara, there is a yellow arrow and an "A" marked. Fortunately for me, the French guys walking in the opposite direction confirmed for me that this stood for "Albergue" and it was a short cut to it - rather than walking into town and then back out again. It is a tad confusing as it looks like one should follow the arrows and that is the "route". But if you are not staying in Tábara, or you are staying at a different hostal, then this direction is not helpful! It is marked with a very faint black arrow on my map below - going left off the camino. <br />
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<b>After Santa Marta de Tera and Olleros de Tera: </b>Note that the hostal Juan Manuel in Santa Marta de Tera is closed, or was in May 2014. The route is very confusing and could be very dangerous if the pilgrim takes the wrong way down to the dam as it can flood or the dam could be opened a bit allowing more water through and it would rise very quickly. I took the route that is marked with the black arrows, but the pilgrim should stay on the upper paths, way above the river and dam. Although the route I took was stunningly beautiful and very cool and mysterious through the trees, it is not the right way. There are many markers still in existence and often quite clear, so it is easy to make a mistake. But really - do not do this because it could be life threatening. There are two routes marked on the map and I took the one past the Ermita. I then continued, following arrows, through the undergrowth and down to the river, however, the upper route which I think is marked for bicycles (bicis) is actually the correct one for both foot travelers and all others, bicycle or no! The French guys walking in reverse took the road and maybe it was actually easier to see the correct way "in reverse". Regardless - staying "high" is the best policy and making ones way to and then over, the dam wall! <br />
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<b>Rionegro del Puente: </b> I have not photographed the map here, but the route is DIFFERENT from that marked in the map. It is clearly signed with arrows from the town, it will take you over the ohter side of the A52 and to the right of it. You will in fact run parallel with it for a while, but after a short distance it will reconnect with the correct and original marked camino route.<br />
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<b>Entrepeñas to Otero de Sanabria: </b> Two changes, one nearer Entrepeñas and the other at the Otero end, although we do not actually enter the village of Otero itself. The first is quite clear and fairly obvious and there are diversion signs. It takes us along the tar and it is not at all possible to walk on the old route which is shown on the map. At the Otero end, it gets a little more confusing and sometimes one has to hunt about for arrows because it is quite wet and boggy and a little overgrown in places. There were a couple of times I wasn't sure I was on the right route, and in fact I did lose the markers twice and then see them on another track next to me or ahead. The tracks do all seem to interconnect, so perhaps one would end up in the right place regardless but it's worth keeping alert here! Also, I think that pilgrims have taken different tracks at times in order to avoid the mud! It is rather like a bog through here and it would require sturdier walking boots in wet months.<br />
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<b>Leaving Puebla de Sanabria and on past Requejo: </b> The route is all along the main road out of Puebla de Sanabria, following the N525 for some km's. Where there is an intersection of roads coming from the left and right, just before Terroso, there is a marker on the right hand side of the road. The way winds itself among trees and shady footpaths and is very pretty - a much better bet and welcome break from the tarmac. I encourage pilgrims to look out for this. It is worth taking and we noticed many had missed it and stayed on the main road where it is busy with traffic and hard on the feet. It is especially advised as on reaching Requejo, until the route is remarked and redirected "off road", in order to keep pilgrims safe and away from the railway construction, the camino has been directed along another enormous length of busy main road, filled with construction trucks and heavy vehicles. If one wishes to continue on foot along this, then a break at Terroso on the scenic route will have been welcome. <br />
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However, I would personally advise trying to get a lift/taxi/bus up the long hill to where the camino picks up again above the bend where I have written "no choice" on the map. There is a small black biro mark here which is where the construction vehicles park and where the camino can be picked up again. This is a very nice route, but do watch for arrows on one of the roads and as directed in the guidebook. I have made a note about this on my more detailed blog notes which included this day of walking. Of course, all of this may be different or improved by the time someone reading this makes their journey to Santiago - but I would suggest that it is likely to still be a problem during 2015 and into 2016... and maybe beyond. <br />
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<b>Before Padornelo, through Padornelo and on to Lubián: </b> The guide book is now out of date and it is important to follow the signs. The construction means that the camino goes off to the right and onto the road, it does not run between the A-52 and N-525 as suggested and pictured. It now runs entirely along the N-525. There is a services along this and after Padornelo (everything was shut here when I passed through) which will provide good refreshment and a welcome break from road work. Continue from here and down the hill and at the bottom there is a kind of road block which shows that the old road is just cut off and no longer in existence. <br />
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The camino heads to the right and winds along the tar road above Acidberos and continues around and along this tar road past Hedroso. Continue on this yet further past where it says Boca del Porto de la Meda on the guide map, and still onward all the way into Lubián. This will add on around another 7.9km to your camino for this day and it is ALL TAR. There is no possibility of taking off road camino here - it is all diversion due to the new railway. I do not know if this will change when it is finished, I do hope so, because the scenery is lovely and it is hard going taking on so much road work on this section. The road here is quiet into Lubián and the heavy traffic and fast vehicles, lorries and construction is left behind when you depart the N-525.<br />
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Personally I would recommend staying over night in Lubián (or maybe even missing out this section from Requejo to Lubián until things are settled and construction finished)... and then just continuing the camino from Lubián. The route from the town up into the mountains and toward the Galician border is fabulous and you will not have missed anything on the road route if you choose not to take it. The route from Lubián is what the pilgrim wants - not stretches of tar and fast lorries. <br />
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Once out of Lubián - and finding the way is virtually impossible!!! I spent a long time hunting around to find it and it is not obvious or well marked - then be aware on reaching the Santuario de la Tuiza. It is right under the motorway flyover and you need to stay right. There is a lovely little water trough and fountain here - keep right and you will soon pick up the arrows again and from here it is easy to follow. Where there is any possibility of ambiguity, pilgrims have left arrows and markers made of stones and sticks to guide you. Arriving at the Galician border is wonderful and the markers well worth the walk. <br />
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<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-47203284754686991622015-08-17T15:43:00.003-07:002015-08-18T15:56:56.649-07:00El Camino (Levante) Requejo to La Canda (18.2km) Friday 16th May<b>El Camino (Levante) Requejo to La Canda (18.2km) Friday 16th May</b><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm_RuUF5u20lMWZuJB5t7Rdrk4y7a2lSG1fok3jzzAzjvQAk98QcMepRJNjXNusKrn4iZyJLiZ7bATokSWw-12hG-u4V0wdR9KZRWEbpiQ7QWCJdw1nkCaPaJtdABDxaOweVB9DzYpPL9D/s1600/DSCF0532.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm_RuUF5u20lMWZuJB5t7Rdrk4y7a2lSG1fok3jzzAzjvQAk98QcMepRJNjXNusKrn4iZyJLiZ7bATokSWw-12hG-u4V0wdR9KZRWEbpiQ7QWCJdw1nkCaPaJtdABDxaOweVB9DzYpPL9D/s320/DSCF0532.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watch VERY carefully for these markers<br />
on the route from above Requejo to<br />
El Padornelo - or you will get lost!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdm41ew35PK1GGc4UQIZK89e57teY5rFg04eb7ileXB8RWlR8_9YlyK1ZMlzJGMHk92TTJCb4s-HL_gze9O0YFA0eSovRQu0OFEgkDSOCc-28zUY6xjcatbNv60_8t64wzkPQuJ6tdNWzb/s1600/DSCF0530.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdm41ew35PK1GGc4UQIZK89e57teY5rFg04eb7ileXB8RWlR8_9YlyK1ZMlzJGMHk92TTJCb4s-HL_gze9O0YFA0eSovRQu0OFEgkDSOCc-28zUY6xjcatbNv60_8t64wzkPQuJ6tdNWzb/s320/DSCF0530.JPG" width="240" /></a>My final day on the camino for a while, as after this I had to return to the UK in order to get resettled for various reasons including work. As I write this, it has taken some time and we are still house hunting from our new base in Cornwall. I have been walking regularly - the daily walks with the dogs of course, but also some excursions along paths like the Ridgeway with a friend, which we plan to walk in its entirety with her horse and one of my dogs next year (Yume as she's a bit smaller and more "portable"!) This will be a great way to keep my hand in while still finding my feet here. It's not possible to add on the cost of a Camino trip, flights, transport and accommodation at the moment. I will only be able to do this once we have our own place and are better established, but I have already planned the two final routes... one from where I left off, from La Canda, going through to Ourense and then finally Ourense to Santiago. Writing this has given me the inspiration again and I do hope that it will be possible to make my next trips sooner rather than later. Long distance walking is possible in the UK and this is also something I intend to make more of now I am here. It means I can still take the dogs - which sadly will not be possible on my return Camino trips - and the ancient routes through Britain remind me of my Camino Time Travel, touching the past and its energies. It's a great way to discover the history and less crowded places of this island.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZxwrcgHreuDU9kaBHq6G6Pd2AzKVSc3SUUQgO9esf7vmruf8GAvX_rFjaX_bO_3dO9A-Ogt8o_veql6Oloib69hxfOr4JdUPZOV4yT-KyhDq53EyryzgXO7FSCzC4Z5NUmUbovkLParA/s1600/DSCF0536.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZxwrcgHreuDU9kaBHq6G6Pd2AzKVSc3SUUQgO9esf7vmruf8GAvX_rFjaX_bO_3dO9A-Ogt8o_veql6Oloib69hxfOr4JdUPZOV4yT-KyhDq53EyryzgXO7FSCzC4Z5NUmUbovkLParA/s320/DSCF0536.JPG" width="240" /></a>In the mean time, back to this camino. What a fabulous and fantastic day this was but VERY, very tiring! I have to say that this really took it out of me, far more than the steep climb to Cebreros on the previous trip! Maybe it was because it came on the last day of a long trip and one that did not afford us a break in the middle to rest up and renew the energy. The total this time has been 191.3km which leaves me only 213.7km to do! I can't believe it. The dogs and I have covered 991.3km on foot across the diagonal of Spain.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The way after Lubián - continue<br />
to the right of this church, following<br />
the track as it curves right in<br />
this photo</td></tr>
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Starting early, the climb was pretty much ever upwards! It was tough going and I was very glad for hard boiled eggs, fruit and nuts to keep me going. I was also glad I started early as it was going to be a warm day and the morning was nice and cool. In fact, when we reached the top of the climb above El Padornelo, the wind was really whistling through the trees and creating such an eerie sound Akina and I kept looking behind us, a bit spooked! For most of the way it follows a gravel track and old road, crossing bridges over fast flowing streams and waterfalls and deep rocky gullies. The valley is spectacular as you climb its sides and the main road occasionally soars above us across viaducts. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYTJrXt1Vlce9GffoqS1LRQyW2a-FfqF6fpo6QBQ6sz0SAUjeTN5m9bCvrlu2ZFZJ_6wUoTpK_EMfJOJKy2xlGp3n_3Dc7I8yp59_1tA7rqQY0GY7ZV1rHCShuq9WWKg8sjySObRW96Eyi/s1600/IMG_6877.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYTJrXt1Vlce9GffoqS1LRQyW2a-FfqF6fpo6QBQ6sz0SAUjeTN5m9bCvrlu2ZFZJ_6wUoTpK_EMfJOJKy2xlGp3n_3Dc7I8yp59_1tA7rqQY0GY7ZV1rHCShuq9WWKg8sjySObRW96Eyi/s320/IMG_6877.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wind whistled here and it was a little chilly on top<br />
of the hill at 1450m. We were glad for some "down" time<br />
into Lubián although it was tar all the way and not<br />
such nice walking</td></tr>
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On the whole it is a peaceful and beautiful route, although despite my early start there were quite a few pilgrims marching out along it. Interestingly the steep climb sorted out the distances between us and soon I was alone again. There is a strange and interesting description in the guidebook which explains that to avoid extra distance along the old road, going around curves that were required for vehicles to make the steep ascent, the peregrino should take a cut to the right with a steep slope and then it will shortly reach the highest point of 1450m. The arrows take some finding and I was not sure if I should turn left or right at one point, but where I emerged and after wandering about for a few minutes decided to try turning left onto the road, I then found the arrows and the one that distinctly marks this aforementioned "right turn" up a "steep slope" (arrow photographed above)... thank you yet again to some kind peregrinos who help others of us stay on the right track!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wolf heads on the wonderful fuente in Lubián</td></tr>
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Once at the top, the track descends and then takes the pilgrim onto the tar again. It is quite a long distance from here on the tar and the Camino off road routes are not used for some time. In fact there is almost an extra 8km on the road to avoid the new railway being built. Many pilgrims were struggling along and again adding extra distance onto their journey, and extra discomfort to their feet. Walking on tarmac is no fun and is so resistant, it's amazing the difference walking on it to walking on just hard ground.<br />
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The people of Lubián are known as "lobos" or wolves. According to one camino blog I was reading, apparently this area has the largest<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqLR8asT1mxtKXYK-cOSd4i9yitvFIs0SE5xkL6XTnVYftWDoyR2NuFIHEuLlEXPrc5G5Fzavwselva2PXfXkOALjy2rz4zJM2wpMXUU7XuIgBHEolXxdEJnEF4zhvPxVLHXvF-bPTNyrc/s1600/IMG_6882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqLR8asT1mxtKXYK-cOSd4i9yitvFIs0SE5xkL6XTnVYftWDoyR2NuFIHEuLlEXPrc5G5Fzavwselva2PXfXkOALjy2rz4zJM2wpMXUU7XuIgBHEolXxdEJnEF4zhvPxVLHXvF-bPTNyrc/s320/IMG_6882.JPG" width="320" /></a>concentration of Iberian Wolves in Spain, right in the forests that we walk through and have been walking through...!! From other research it seems that the town was known for the trapping of live wolves and I think, if my understanding of the Spanish translation is correct, they invented or developed some kind of trap after which they were named. <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimH_GQ6YhPLZL_j0rIdiGPj_g5Caz44m_dAPd0Fz537dWXn58iPi9FkloF4AbPXBRACEZlU2N__S4fAceUawdflw3fr8YjMbQjdBbTayc3TmpCStOOMIvCuroSID8rXtWl06O_D9fGc1Rq/s1600/IMG_6885.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimH_GQ6YhPLZL_j0rIdiGPj_g5Caz44m_dAPd0Fz537dWXn58iPi9FkloF4AbPXBRACEZlU2N__S4fAceUawdflw3fr8YjMbQjdBbTayc3TmpCStOOMIvCuroSID8rXtWl06O_D9fGc1Rq/s320/IMG_6885.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of my own "red" wolves!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Anyway, I did not know any of this at the time, when we were up on the very lonely and quiet, but beautiful track we really did hear strange noises that did freak me out a little and there were strange cries that may or may not have been rutting deer... is it the right time of year for that? It's what I told myself anyway, as I wasn't sure about wolves and bears after seeing the info on the signs at Requejo. These things play on the mind, although I only read for sure that there are wolves in the area on my return from the Camino. The dogs too were a bit unsettled, looking around at times, but were very good. I was just worried that they would run off and stir up the "whatever it was" and was worried they might not come off the better for it. My bigger concern now is that I now "know" about the wolves and I still have a lot of forest walking to go... next trip! But from friends and reading, I reassure myself that they do not really like to cross tracks with humans... they don't, they really don't.. do they? Do they??<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl2Gs5N-KaG6AKdOsG4aQkRIeNXgeZb-y4v6-qh_h74OudnAGnWZhl4FzmYGUsWcDE7-YyltwH7vHjREa3nbSvM4QC-FMliRgRKeeurltpdCUTY2VoEMeapRfMlTZakBXme4yhhOdHg602/s1600/DSCF0538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl2Gs5N-KaG6AKdOsG4aQkRIeNXgeZb-y4v6-qh_h74OudnAGnWZhl4FzmYGUsWcDE7-YyltwH7vHjREa3nbSvM4QC-FMliRgRKeeurltpdCUTY2VoEMeapRfMlTZakBXme4yhhOdHg602/s640/DSCF0538.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Such fun taking two girls with me on this section - long and hard, always upwards, but not a single other peregrino!<br />
Beautiful walk on lovely old paths - again I was back in the past. Yume and Kaishi played and ran the whole way.</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhezyzNzojX67DdBX1lk7VUBkFcoc26r5QtFCD2rEka_mrJmY3_sO9V4uXXJU1E4SghnqdJYUdH7O5X-_XkrjMV18f59v6eajFhh0j8bXgaBYoLyO46AGk1gSpBLivitknWKQCGDMoixTbR/s1600/DSCF0541.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhezyzNzojX67DdBX1lk7VUBkFcoc26r5QtFCD2rEka_mrJmY3_sO9V4uXXJU1E4SghnqdJYUdH7O5X-_XkrjMV18f59v6eajFhh0j8bXgaBYoLyO46AGk1gSpBLivitknWKQCGDMoixTbR/s320/DSCF0541.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kaishi on one of the lovely little bridge crossings<br />
on this route before we really started to climb up through<br />
the forest and into the first mountains of Galicia.</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3imqp2C19jdT381uQB0sMMwZKo7X4vzF36qyPc02oNyx-ESk-ZwIVWzy6AWRK18d9UColBkDqXzdUoUw5r8aJAVnDKDWj0_Fff4FP4_91Jp4vHwEPr0_ftViLEy1zPE1lrT1OzXrrM18n/s1600/IMG_6886.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3imqp2C19jdT381uQB0sMMwZKo7X4vzF36qyPc02oNyx-ESk-ZwIVWzy6AWRK18d9UColBkDqXzdUoUw5r8aJAVnDKDWj0_Fff4FP4_91Jp4vHwEPr0_ftViLEy1zPE1lrT1OzXrrM18n/s200/IMG_6886.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Various concrete blocks have been<br />
place along the wet and muddy route as<br />
many streams flow across the forest<br />
paths. They are very welcome as they<br />
keep the feet dry and sometimes there<br />
are so many they are like giant<br />
stepping stones.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXb6M1LLL2M2tQiV6yTQHGASTUwCzsKdPp1agornpAVVC4LbCxZhBNZolGpN9VS3bJnVZdDwXmgJJ19Zmsz5CibvqaD-eQiMeLcVe77w1RwSxYfapNmyfZh3Q8yMWU46DAaGcmLxP6c0CO/s1600/DSCF0544.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXb6M1LLL2M2tQiV6yTQHGASTUwCzsKdPp1agornpAVVC4LbCxZhBNZolGpN9VS3bJnVZdDwXmgJJ19Zmsz5CibvqaD-eQiMeLcVe77w1RwSxYfapNmyfZh3Q8yMWU46DAaGcmLxP6c0CO/s320/DSCF0544.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
The photo of a kind of river bed, with an arrow on one of the rocks in the foreground is an example of one of the wetter parts of this camino track - the actual camino itself running along the middle of this stream! Fortunately there had not been too much rain and we could find rocky patches above the water level on which to walk, but it might prove interesting in wetter weather, and it may be harder to find the arrows if they disappear under the water itself, as I can imagine they do!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzdsmhB-vYgNoR45b7kJpU_IJrPGlYg3yh638NWWsqU_J7dRsNGHKc-YwOg07qTqhN9R4VXQikrTqmMV40xUL462KZedBCqFsP03hagibXzl9-rarRoklO_YZe21vkkV8_MDRdzu0XghHj/s1600/DSCF0548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzdsmhB-vYgNoR45b7kJpU_IJrPGlYg3yh638NWWsqU_J7dRsNGHKc-YwOg07qTqhN9R4VXQikrTqmMV40xUL462KZedBCqFsP03hagibXzl9-rarRoklO_YZe21vkkV8_MDRdzu0XghHj/s320/DSCF0548.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This section of the walk is just stunning. It is so peaceful<br />
and so beautiful and the signs are like friends appearing<br />
along the way, pointing us onwards to Santiago.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCe1GM6tgLEjQFS76qtJer0yh3t_Wk6H4KGfbzsI_eleijNl5qxt6B7_U6-ZuB2o-Tl5JEyds9QGYSKPSHcH92qyzng3b0IaLJwsPcmfNLQX-LdkENOXZojHrDIT1v_vyl3ShV1QElU4av/s1600/DSCF0545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCe1GM6tgLEjQFS76qtJer0yh3t_Wk6H4KGfbzsI_eleijNl5qxt6B7_U6-ZuB2o-Tl5JEyds9QGYSKPSHcH92qyzng3b0IaLJwsPcmfNLQX-LdkENOXZojHrDIT1v_vyl3ShV1QElU4av/s640/DSCF0545.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The views as we near the top of the trail and are about to enter Galicia. The dogs loved this walk.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1jCo0LW7gFVuuvZ0xN4Hd9TFsEMb5iaa7omw3CGnVVXOJ9QtWenJPcKbynyeMw4DQMYWgbUPz-V-5X8ty2HWeqz9axd2gMsWnHaKJ4MavBcyxhR8HOOl5vOpRrYQkmmR-i9AYn4u2Tlo7/s1600/DSCF0549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1jCo0LW7gFVuuvZ0xN4Hd9TFsEMb5iaa7omw3CGnVVXOJ9QtWenJPcKbynyeMw4DQMYWgbUPz-V-5X8ty2HWeqz9axd2gMsWnHaKJ4MavBcyxhR8HOOl5vOpRrYQkmmR-i9AYn4u2Tlo7/s640/DSCF0549.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEk0csJKYAqfdertPE48W0081BfJp7uIPzua-QIgJIlPwmDDrRE7YK83doHYo-s-grxwDYmDdGY4fCuVdWzyWkZdBZRZwyKt9_Y7_K3w7LfrzecqhH5hz714NxBjabJI8s0fE2BxUveQOW/s1600/IMG_6891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEk0csJKYAqfdertPE48W0081BfJp7uIPzua-QIgJIlPwmDDrRE7YK83doHYo-s-grxwDYmDdGY4fCuVdWzyWkZdBZRZwyKt9_Y7_K3w7LfrzecqhH5hz714NxBjabJI8s0fE2BxUveQOW/s640/IMG_6891.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love this - another arrow left by fellow peregrinos to show the way where there is some ambiguity. Here<br />
the arrow prevents us from accidentally taking a path to the left and makes sure that we continue<br />
in the right direction.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCjHbfa1DFgEJGye63i_6HIWUsJpaQla3EsEgGWhRKKbz2PYKuVpAd1lsOP9WDjgAn_a4xivnGeFqYBtgtaILI0xMjxQ6nWpOZ_U1Xe69-djBSA6jsGFWK5mgrhxN0hz43Fs7Y4P3MPixp/s1600/DSCF0551.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCjHbfa1DFgEJGye63i_6HIWUsJpaQla3EsEgGWhRKKbz2PYKuVpAd1lsOP9WDjgAn_a4xivnGeFqYBtgtaILI0xMjxQ6nWpOZ_U1Xe69-djBSA6jsGFWK5mgrhxN0hz43Fs7Y4P3MPixp/s640/DSCF0551.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love this! Arrival in Galicia and entering the Province of Ourense. What a great gateway to the final<br />
northern part of our route - and apparently an area of fabulous food!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihG6I56tIvlIz9xGtZz_F5hlNgfY3bAufF3C5Y9jnygdFeP3zHb-EdDeAoyMCrI4z2i2J2dLgiFeMqA5CDfA-QHDKATi8HR45F4fWPH3exbrsOv6V05LCe7z2DWItWF56zbmnd5szHjtS8/s1600/DSCF0553.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihG6I56tIvlIz9xGtZz_F5hlNgfY3bAufF3C5Y9jnygdFeP3zHb-EdDeAoyMCrI4z2i2J2dLgiFeMqA5CDfA-QHDKATi8HR45F4fWPH3exbrsOv6V05LCe7z2DWItWF56zbmnd5szHjtS8/s320/DSCF0553.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJksoIovPFDgw4dzR5mtu6r-83gqAqg4f7sgt_SpBNlokiUSM9w5EqeCJW_TBO1YlhnDAZf9ckMXtfFtr38WevZWbHbFlNmSsdbYLyXC18LFZfHMyIr66C1R5Rp6lfXFFeZgpxopEOht2I/s1600/DSCF0560.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJksoIovPFDgw4dzR5mtu6r-83gqAqg4f7sgt_SpBNlokiUSM9w5EqeCJW_TBO1YlhnDAZf9ckMXtfFtr38WevZWbHbFlNmSsdbYLyXC18LFZfHMyIr66C1R5Rp6lfXFFeZgpxopEOht2I/s200/DSCF0560.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNyE_Bc0detk6DWbIUUxB8j4l6f1mXjW3TdPuOA5gYP2QdTk70SH0ll_Kcc7NA7AyatoKd4IcEz2V8xdMahiGOmvWHCSV5GRU-dQ2U-QERFpTFrrH7R3l_ETUVAbJFR_oT9L417MaHvpnA/s1600/DSCF0558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNyE_Bc0detk6DWbIUUxB8j4l6f1mXjW3TdPuOA5gYP2QdTk70SH0ll_Kcc7NA7AyatoKd4IcEz2V8xdMahiGOmvWHCSV5GRU-dQ2U-QERFpTFrrH7R3l_ETUVAbJFR_oT9L417MaHvpnA/s640/DSCF0558.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great achievement. Really loved this day's walk and here we all are - with the Robertson Mala after 991.3km</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTspwnfVieNsCbbqE1sq1zWYNlpRzk1vaytkiMXlxs9DNrlsyV0V-n1JX56ZjNZ7zLIV_cRy75R1I6Ap7il8EM-2sDbf2slT5FIG0Hk4JyR1cad-Bavi5-tkqB2cKyn5DS5LH6D1OhClhA/s1600/photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTspwnfVieNsCbbqE1sq1zWYNlpRzk1vaytkiMXlxs9DNrlsyV0V-n1JX56ZjNZ7zLIV_cRy75R1I6Ap7il8EM-2sDbf2slT5FIG0Hk4JyR1cad-Bavi5-tkqB2cKyn5DS5LH6D1OhClhA/s640/photo.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thank you to Rodney for his wise and simple words... they sum up the essence of the camino and being in<br />the moment upon it, all one has to do is "walk"... "When walking, just walk".</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_bQLNSmWicJX_T3R1LUMnDx8bxXhsTIUR4HTZ-dy4OgEZEvJVfplbgMfHo9ofaHMMs0eTNV_Pqv4rjrNxpNLGFF4xpjjgTLocicbaFbapDkh8_JUOWMNOZG1vadQeIXrn0mWlnqaLHaNu/s1600/DSCF0564.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_bQLNSmWicJX_T3R1LUMnDx8bxXhsTIUR4HTZ-dy4OgEZEvJVfplbgMfHo9ofaHMMs0eTNV_Pqv4rjrNxpNLGFF4xpjjgTLocicbaFbapDkh8_JUOWMNOZG1vadQeIXrn0mWlnqaLHaNu/s400/DSCF0564.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My credential - getting quite full now!</td></tr>
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<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-79376946029878827492015-08-17T08:38:00.001-07:002015-08-17T08:38:23.708-07:00El Camino (Levante) Otero de Sanabria to Requejo (17.6km plus 7.9km extra by road) Thursday 15th May<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpslVp88sgCYbX7WORg616Xg7_K0y0KdbSaeSxstJve15ELJlk7batPTgmCYCqEainudrYE8k7L7Ti1kAWtJ1IjCgeXq2d9taHxVaqjyud36L5KkgWP9ly4s1Ds0rtX-jhT_3OTt_7Gn02/s1600/DSCF0513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpslVp88sgCYbX7WORg616Xg7_K0y0KdbSaeSxstJve15ELJlk7batPTgmCYCqEainudrYE8k7L7Ti1kAWtJ1IjCgeXq2d9taHxVaqjyud36L5KkgWP9ly4s1Ds0rtX-jhT_3OTt_7Gn02/s320/DSCF0513.JPG" width="320" /></a><b>El Camino (Levante) Otero de Sanabria to Requejo (17.6km plus 7.9km extra by road) Thursday 15th May</b><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh11IVbFEQi4vlDiYICrEMoGVAZkAy3E4z0uRkJTzp2wj34P_mg1gT4Iwe046R2B3mXyKL00Fl1uNLYHvtehrDQ5eyJVGFSRCqVYF18JR9qCGWqxV8PI23h0h8MZW0q-lW-UMkKb5lnD2yr/s1600/DSCF0516.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh11IVbFEQi4vlDiYICrEMoGVAZkAy3E4z0uRkJTzp2wj34P_mg1gT4Iwe046R2B3mXyKL00Fl1uNLYHvtehrDQ5eyJVGFSRCqVYF18JR9qCGWqxV8PI23h0h8MZW0q-lW-UMkKb5lnD2yr/s200/DSCF0516.JPG" width="200" /></a>This ended up being a bit of a day off! Although we started out on the route into Pueblo de Sanabria with some interesting and rather direct signage indicating I guess that drivers should slow down and take more care driving through the little villages (the Spanish don't beat about the bush!)... we soon found that it the day was going to be largely directed along tar roads. This is no fun for humans or dogs, and the girls needed their exercise, so we decided to drive along the main, and very busy, road toward Requejo and see if there were any diversions onto off road tracks and to find out exactly how far the peregrino was going to be directed along the roads.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNoZ5fPb_gRHSLRVzfpFGUm7YEmC94Rnk7XFECFFC_uqtrTN57qdJ3Ab1MZO-8tmNguQLoCc84IhXWpO7SHHixRpR8UfctNXuCkshoU0xsTcUtHI6WVziE5AVJBVchw8U96vUVm1H7y_HP/s1600/IMG_6844.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNoZ5fPb_gRHSLRVzfpFGUm7YEmC94Rnk7XFECFFC_uqtrTN57qdJ3Ab1MZO-8tmNguQLoCc84IhXWpO7SHHixRpR8UfctNXuCkshoU0xsTcUtHI6WVziE5AVJBVchw8U96vUVm1H7y_HP/s400/IMG_6844.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkbVJCgEVMOhmCa3tIdLE35S802npvtqUtpFfwkfjmxwZikjCAdMiNXIYcScM_Jsg-PMFbN_q7n6-LGoTMQhTjLCywlhgzf0s1z9R94gT1skQ67gmL4Dae4MxO_P-5_4ZId9xYUMiuTFKJ/s1600/DSCF0518.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkbVJCgEVMOhmCa3tIdLE35S802npvtqUtpFfwkfjmxwZikjCAdMiNXIYcScM_Jsg-PMFbN_q7n6-LGoTMQhTjLCywlhgzf0s1z9R94gT1skQ67gmL4Dae4MxO_P-5_4ZId9xYUMiuTFKJ/s200/DSCF0518.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pretty marker on the lovely<br />way to Requejo, easily missed<br />if you are just trudging the<br />tar road. It's easy to assume<br />that one will have to take tar<br />all the way to Requjo - and<br />sadly many peregrinos ended<br />up doing exactly that</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjewBtU-M1KrkuYOE1B5UdefKeDLWRx3Pt878oJsZYXqxSureny_nCXYG7xnEY6OZJa0fkcMnyux35dyPhNnjL1xAgZFm-cClfQD1I7uZMAO_7iiAE2OA2KFMfgtdS3BIHzOYcd-5vmNN8B/s1600/DSCF0517.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjewBtU-M1KrkuYOE1B5UdefKeDLWRx3Pt878oJsZYXqxSureny_nCXYG7xnEY6OZJa0fkcMnyux35dyPhNnjL1xAgZFm-cClfQD1I7uZMAO_7iiAE2OA2KFMfgtdS3BIHzOYcd-5vmNN8B/s320/DSCF0517.JPG" width="240" /></a>A little out of Pueblo de Sanabria, there is actually a sign on the right indicating that the camino can be followed along an off road path and to be honest it is quiet and rather beautiful. I was glad indeed that we spotted it because it is not the way marked on the map and is easily missed - we saw a large number of other pilgrims who had just gone on past this section and were still plodding on along the tarmac. Sadly, they would have many kilometres to go because there is a very, very long stretch up the hill out of Requejo, also along busy roadway, before the pilgrim is redirected onto the usual country tracks. There are many lorries on this section, heavy and carrying building materials and hardcore for the new railway being built and which has haunted our camino at many different stages, meeting us, departing from us, running along side us or actually following the original route of the camino itself. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6NOWh3Nxlla1I78OpWCLxzx0emjNx6nJtoU02fMOWlBSTXadU9zrwELz0aVsi-MYk3z-2SdeUy2rhqODgjlobDm_g6_5HKeaGZOYvXT3_uaPvtWuL4BkhoMo4EzR50OA-D0i3NCmsBFgg/s1600/DSCF0519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6NOWh3Nxlla1I78OpWCLxzx0emjNx6nJtoU02fMOWlBSTXadU9zrwELz0aVsi-MYk3z-2SdeUy2rhqODgjlobDm_g6_5HKeaGZOYvXT3_uaPvtWuL4BkhoMo4EzR50OA-D0i3NCmsBFgg/s640/DSCF0519.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not to be missed! Do keep your eyes peeled for the signs to take the diverted camino route to the "right hand side" of<br />the main road out of Pueblo de Sanabria. It's well worth it to avoid even more road walking to Requejo - there will be<br />plenty enough after it!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmTsDiDfdgMuX7QvWnTV3lZ50tS5ftf90z_2uqO7JQTL6wvlN3DybtMOjzT-Oxexraofgdwu3eUaygQQC08l_H0MOyyegu4eKtEmpFP9Qjuizccfls-CgPk667PphNE16PFtoRkWaAfO-e/s1600/DSCF0523.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmTsDiDfdgMuX7QvWnTV3lZ50tS5ftf90z_2uqO7JQTL6wvlN3DybtMOjzT-Oxexraofgdwu3eUaygQQC08l_H0MOyyegu4eKtEmpFP9Qjuizccfls-CgPk667PphNE16PFtoRkWaAfO-e/s200/DSCF0523.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0bHMV3mBt07Z-FE62LYDc36YRR6GUVmyYZj9J04TrzxwYh9cq_tE2Nr5MTL4CUTSoDxA0SUk32AaQMjUny7HHIK9aELK8E3Tjkih9zVRiQJhZP4VlyRknzEKt6Tml_JtZgXbcpFVOzwYz/s1600/DSCF0521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0bHMV3mBt07Z-FE62LYDc36YRR6GUVmyYZj9J04TrzxwYh9cq_tE2Nr5MTL4CUTSoDxA0SUk32AaQMjUny7HHIK9aELK8E3Tjkih9zVRiQJhZP4VlyRknzEKt6Tml_JtZgXbcpFVOzwYz/s320/DSCF0521.JPG" width="320" /></a>As we entered Requejo the ayuntamiento makes the pilgrim feel very welcome and we had a great coffee and bite to eat in the little cafe at the foot of the town, where the camino would usually pass by and head on up the steep valley into the hills, but off the road. For now this is closed and the only way for the pilgrim is to head up the very busy main road. There is a nice little albergue and the town will be set for peregrinos in the near future, a great place to stop over before the BIG climb up to the Galician border (and believe me it is!)... There were many pilgrims here when we stopped but most were keen to just get on with the journey and conquer the main road section before it got even busier as the day wore on. On our return from our explorations we saw around 20 or so peregrinos battling their way up the road - one (who we had spotted before and were quite amazed at how they might be achieving the more rugged sections of the camino) - with a wheeled suitcase!!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLrmVBqLchZznOkwKQ1qFMobS1XUDzsr8O2nF_BwWRQJ6jyclVzsAP1IP8MV4HuJMhHvh90-_L9jzPppqPt31z3X2ikrqDiWHROFNQeIdmqLlQ7fPILZYfDlkDi1QhX8OXPxDtml1cK5wb/s1600/IMG_6850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLrmVBqLchZznOkwKQ1qFMobS1XUDzsr8O2nF_BwWRQJ6jyclVzsAP1IP8MV4HuJMhHvh90-_L9jzPppqPt31z3X2ikrqDiWHROFNQeIdmqLlQ7fPILZYfDlkDi1QhX8OXPxDtml1cK5wb/s320/IMG_6850.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cross with St James as one enters<br />Requejo</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSvPo8eGOnjjP5fEsPe72s0JvFX0z6xhJvTXNWkzjHIR7_6XHZftmflrtFBKgicdhdmPYqlkpPipPpyYbK58aX5hem8ZZsdh0rzXsu41pZZdc8dCgcsB0v137Cv3M1YVSP6hxVOeWwtShz/s1600/DSCF0526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSvPo8eGOnjjP5fEsPe72s0JvFX0z6xhJvTXNWkzjHIR7_6XHZftmflrtFBKgicdhdmPYqlkpPipPpyYbK58aX5hem8ZZsdh0rzXsu41pZZdc8dCgcsB0v137Cv3M1YVSP6hxVOeWwtShz/s320/DSCF0526.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Albergue</td></tr>
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<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />From the restaurant, we drove up the long and relentless hill, the more so for it being a major highway, busy with construction lorries and no pathway so that those on foot had to walk in traffic, and kept our eyes open for where the camino would be redirected back "off road". We knew it had to be somewhere and finally, although not clearly marked, we found it. This would be my starting point the next day and I wanted to be off early to avoid being surrounded by too many pilgrims, there were a "lot" staying in Pueblo de Sanabria and possibly some in Requejo. The total climb above Requejo before heading down again into Lubián is 1450m.<div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghI6xheFOhfuT-Oh5K-QLJUxtTU0FheRNXxpW5CVBvsVS9GAQY8_WR8TY3w3x3HJT3iZToEcPNB6jXvYtay7t_k4NT_dRxcHrXZdxrxWrUFdeea-VChiFKqZgJiQaDoL4ba5YRrQfjau2J/s1600/IMG_6849.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghI6xheFOhfuT-Oh5K-QLJUxtTU0FheRNXxpW5CVBvsVS9GAQY8_WR8TY3w3x3HJT3iZToEcPNB6jXvYtay7t_k4NT_dRxcHrXZdxrxWrUFdeea-VChiFKqZgJiQaDoL4ba5YRrQfjau2J/s320/IMG_6849.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where the camion gets "back on track" above Requejo<br />and off the main road, but by where many of the<br />construction vehicles park up</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVGa5wCRcaGKvxOGucCT1ePLRLTyDpHcjYz1Ha4j23Jm6SQPck_88NqMjjeD60UfHLzjXatffu75wReXgoWoyf-hI3z4_Ssrr6isH4xACRb9zIBiV9GACSiy2s0Rrh33F_i0EkdKyArSsk/s1600/IMG_6851.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVGa5wCRcaGKvxOGucCT1ePLRLTyDpHcjYz1Ha4j23Jm6SQPck_88NqMjjeD60UfHLzjXatffu75wReXgoWoyf-hI3z4_Ssrr6isH4xACRb9zIBiV9GACSiy2s0Rrh33F_i0EkdKyArSsk/s320/IMG_6851.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> Requejo is a kind of frontier zone - between the Mediterranean climate and the Atlantic. The mountains often have snow and ice and there are salt and sand tanks along the side of the road for gritting in the winter months. It's also why I had to walk this section out of winter time. The guidebook recommends alternative routes for when it has been raining because the way can be hazardous, although at the moment, because or building the railway, even the alternatives are not available! It is an area known for its architecture, its flora and fauna and there are many trails for tourists to explore, even if they are not walking El Camino. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZsodQqpGeIOGiMH7mnUl6ypucC6rOwRNUGGIXzWJKUZCWiCFFqeOBIn7k_pG4OSv5qGOfHg6_BoRnLdygnEVTEg8Cz4Kkfp-P33vI9HY6WS_wfPmLBfizlQNFfZKFy19HSV6kO72gyoMo/s1600/IMG_6853.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZsodQqpGeIOGiMH7mnUl6ypucC6rOwRNUGGIXzWJKUZCWiCFFqeOBIn7k_pG4OSv5qGOfHg6_BoRnLdygnEVTEg8Cz4Kkfp-P33vI9HY6WS_wfPmLBfizlQNFfZKFy19HSV6kO72gyoMo/s640/IMG_6853.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDeUvNKLUXhDjWMQb3uWOXsSd9x5Qd8jDSniFqFPDx8OuUuWSlunhVi0CXx7p5Ncl_GTmT1oxPq8Mslj45IIECWMW43MbexQUF04B821MV2Fk0UMA-dgh2HOarbGyYdOdtB5gn6Zoks2_u/s1600/IMG_6854.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDeUvNKLUXhDjWMQb3uWOXsSd9x5Qd8jDSniFqFPDx8OuUuWSlunhVi0CXx7p5Ncl_GTmT1oxPq8Mslj45IIECWMW43MbexQUF04B821MV2Fk0UMA-dgh2HOarbGyYdOdtB5gn6Zoks2_u/s640/IMG_6854.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZiskcDQH9E7iK6aygnEtM3ZlJKlhXI_o_wWaeqDBhpnD6094hNWEYuzkwJWfDkakzoRsSQoGv-3ZEwenLg3OpLqWwhyphenhyphenawMRqrXADWgF6XwF5o9_XBuVsDz_4bUe8XXhms-NDXrVbC6Ax7/s1600/IMG_6864.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZiskcDQH9E7iK6aygnEtM3ZlJKlhXI_o_wWaeqDBhpnD6094hNWEYuzkwJWfDkakzoRsSQoGv-3ZEwenLg3OpLqWwhyphenhyphenawMRqrXADWgF6XwF5o9_XBuVsDz_4bUe8XXhms-NDXrVbC6Ax7/s320/IMG_6864.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPvHcHFyTDh-tCC0QzMQosXTTAaGpmbdDEQpPsedarS74rWBn0KlTDOhvgTinmiDc_Sd-yUjV7Gj27HU5v1owb-SLVOQXjIAkI5p-eWSKVvzTXUnW8xfTZoO0kRYYTj8GN3TPECWicJafd/s1600/IMG_6863.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPvHcHFyTDh-tCC0QzMQosXTTAaGpmbdDEQpPsedarS74rWBn0KlTDOhvgTinmiDc_Sd-yUjV7Gj27HU5v1owb-SLVOQXjIAkI5p-eWSKVvzTXUnW8xfTZoO0kRYYTj8GN3TPECWicJafd/s200/IMG_6863.JPG" width="200" /></a> On leaving Requejo, we decided to have another afternoon in Pueblo de Sanabria - continuing to be tourists, having a bite to eat and drinking a cold beer. We found a nice shady spot for the dogs and took a wander around the monuments and stalls, discovering signs of St James as we went.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKwsc79EcKene_QWdg8atTg_7nObj2AuBXc4aHoqLvAbGlBahIv88VKVVNWurKOKLIR2YMhTl_40VjnvpXNrjuNpfpqnkUGZwGsMFf6YSSOn_giq1eYpJLiyPrgTctDZRzZA85M6q6CAcc/s1600/IMG_6866.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKwsc79EcKene_QWdg8atTg_7nObj2AuBXc4aHoqLvAbGlBahIv88VKVVNWurKOKLIR2YMhTl_40VjnvpXNrjuNpfpqnkUGZwGsMFf6YSSOn_giq1eYpJLiyPrgTctDZRzZA85M6q6CAcc/s320/IMG_6866.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The back streets of Pueblo de Sanabria</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_s9BIq5JVdH5u9Hp8wFLwxoVQ2QyxmToYISHS75RazkrgvkGq2yWvIqiPmiFJEJLIwPxI9KdTwIgDdssHOneTuUKHyE6l8iIuy-L_bJ9wYIpjGR34WfIfQw-3o42nEWd2a5GxGVfxcaPf/s1600/IMG_6868.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_s9BIq5JVdH5u9Hp8wFLwxoVQ2QyxmToYISHS75RazkrgvkGq2yWvIqiPmiFJEJLIwPxI9KdTwIgDdssHOneTuUKHyE6l8iIuy-L_bJ9wYIpjGR34WfIfQw-3o42nEWd2a5GxGVfxcaPf/s320/IMG_6868.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Various dried beans and "mushrooms" (especially taken for my mother... haha!) ... the cuisine of this area<br />is well known for some of its wild mushroom dishes and they are delicious!</td></tr>
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Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-79325422061530523872015-08-16T14:59:00.002-07:002015-08-16T14:59:49.537-07:00El Camino (Levante) - Cernadilla to Otero de Sanabria (16.9km) Wednesday 14th May<b>Cernadilla to Otero de Sanabria (16.9km) Wednesday 14th May</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS-EN1qSSs7P_73P8C-bjaIW5kzfZQienxU7JTDEvsxIKJYDW_LwGDZM9bRUm_KFmjmgNpS1RJ8yHuhRefyvxR_1j4KbKuF74jmfOAqn3vny7gyRuOzEoBWXOCwkxp6MZQA96GSt4UHvJg/s1600/IMG_6810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS-EN1qSSs7P_73P8C-bjaIW5kzfZQienxU7JTDEvsxIKJYDW_LwGDZM9bRUm_KFmjmgNpS1RJ8yHuhRefyvxR_1j4KbKuF74jmfOAqn3vny7gyRuOzEoBWXOCwkxp6MZQA96GSt4UHvJg/s640/IMG_6810.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Surprisingly chilly start to the day on the walk from Cernadilla to Otero de Sanabria (where it was then<br />
extraordinarily hot!)</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX1fhQziMMteW1Qyh35xuzSgi6x0qJMFdIoL4hEJzcU3h_iMjJH93ysXZzlolbAlEtUGjJcIpN3rcWizWgnClGSb5cgT0iKUkgOyJo5HYr51a0heRhK68oFhTe0fjjR6dygcu-wedYNqJn/s1600/IMG_6813.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX1fhQziMMteW1Qyh35xuzSgi6x0qJMFdIoL4hEJzcU3h_iMjJH93ysXZzlolbAlEtUGjJcIpN3rcWizWgnClGSb5cgT0iKUkgOyJo5HYr51a0heRhK68oFhTe0fjjR6dygcu-wedYNqJn/s200/IMG_6813.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hY6hnSgW_gIV7Q0GvPc0A5_yEC78a1-vaBG3wWBnmjkCNXf3o2C89HfgtVnYNKXHYtUIvsFAZSxf6lh_jLtGNYBwsOLoyxzpLegzIPEqHPGIw3cw8VQlb9wtLoSW4zNGI9QFnsyaEOnx/s1600/IMG_6811.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hY6hnSgW_gIV7Q0GvPc0A5_yEC78a1-vaBG3wWBnmjkCNXf3o2C89HfgtVnYNKXHYtUIvsFAZSxf6lh_jLtGNYBwsOLoyxzpLegzIPEqHPGIw3cw8VQlb9wtLoSW4zNGI9QFnsyaEOnx/s200/IMG_6811.JPG" width="200" /></a>The most wonderful and perfect surprise! I had expected the way to be tar all the way to Asturianos, but in fact it turned out to be the most beautiful, old, medieval roads and forest tracks. Stunning old viallges and buildings and at San Salvador, there were kind of "Romeo and Juliet" medieval balconies on all the buildings! Oh I would so love to have the money to buy one, renovate it and live there for holiday times of peace and tranquility... or just be able to afford to retire there. Just stunning. This style of building must be typical of the area because they occurred again at Otero de Sanabria.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7zR34We3iOspfGzI2MJgnc6O4Lgbwc-tCoHXu8kXdWb-1TUL7y6qy-LCxndbQuk5XA4gRT1tvgYKPsLmkgEUt1aqrM5nUVCQeUeM2M3vHmqPT14wyk22IWvqpxOqZc0lsiUr7nBhUTNna/s1600/IMG_6807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7zR34We3iOspfGzI2MJgnc6O4Lgbwc-tCoHXu8kXdWb-1TUL7y6qy-LCxndbQuk5XA4gRT1tvgYKPsLmkgEUt1aqrM5nUVCQeUeM2M3vHmqPT14wyk22IWvqpxOqZc0lsiUr7nBhUTNna/s320/IMG_6807.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chain sculptures!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP-Ck1frBke8DqWUjbJIYqE3YcvH6lndaUsIYRctyhe4RkXmFhrhWtgcUs3L8z9iGhZs2D1TZBmePuaKkZjC835IVFsw4yL1i90qQezU2HDLc0K8I-dOmKTJMAoMr228m9Lpjm4qYv0YyR/s1600/IMG_6805.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP-Ck1frBke8DqWUjbJIYqE3YcvH6lndaUsIYRctyhe4RkXmFhrhWtgcUs3L8z9iGhZs2D1TZBmePuaKkZjC835IVFsw4yL1i90qQezU2HDLc0K8I-dOmKTJMAoMr228m9Lpjm4qYv0YyR/s200/IMG_6805.JPG" width="200" /></a>There was the most amazing kind of engineering sculpture at Cernadilla, from motorbike chains and other kinds of springs and sprockets (for want of the correct terminology!) and which made a gate archway, gate and other sculptures at one of the houses on route. The morning was surprisingly chilly, no doubt something to do with the mountains ahead, yet by midday, the temperatures soar so that one definitely wants to walk in shorts and short sleeves!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN0wBhRqcOr73e-OU1DcQBod34BYXfRD4HeL2TnRIsRJKlDsOVlOMKAt1x2ZkwGEF5_QNl27cPOQ9qMPvAJIj56oEKS2WGR1vP8mjiG0vKjIjpHj_BjJuVbSQ8N4N1uYzF_uMVlwq2606g/s1600/DSCF0462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN0wBhRqcOr73e-OU1DcQBod34BYXfRD4HeL2TnRIsRJKlDsOVlOMKAt1x2ZkwGEF5_QNl27cPOQ9qMPvAJIj56oEKS2WGR1vP8mjiG0vKjIjpHj_BjJuVbSQ8N4N1uYzF_uMVlwq2606g/s200/DSCF0462.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEJCl-yQcFGFAFRq7WnKIJo4fU4zDHVT-LLEwJ8TjRGCnRn9JOeWj_BEbTGVhAJaakj4yYj1VPW4wk2vBzjKrKk6moOnfRuRQZQ6PqW45Wck9AA51qybV4vzAXs_McaxIPyqZB0eVKfn-f/s1600/DSCF0461.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEJCl-yQcFGFAFRq7WnKIJo4fU4zDHVT-LLEwJ8TjRGCnRn9JOeWj_BEbTGVhAJaakj4yYj1VPW4wk2vBzjKrKk6moOnfRuRQZQ6PqW45Wck9AA51qybV4vzAXs_McaxIPyqZB0eVKfn-f/s200/DSCF0461.JPG" width="200" /></a>The houses are delightful, the villages again so peaceful and little hermitages along the way. On reaching Entrepeñas there were wonderful old wayside crosses marking the route, and the medieval road still existed, between old walls along a green lane, next to the new tar lane. The original entrances are still in it, leading into the gardens of the cottages lining the old route. It makes its way, not surprisingly, to the church. Where it makes its way under the new road, the two ways merging at times, the tar is crumbling and the old road and cobbles can be seen emerging from beneath. It always amazes me how the old road construction is so strong and long lasting, still surviving and coping with modern cars, standing the test of time, where the tar gives up the ghost.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFYlqCYYhfqb5w5wUSOdzd1gJRn6IQ9UfAES3ZbB5ZX0koOMwpz6s6X14_UiikwgPayeNInIQggai7zPgvldl6M5mNdhqKfK_guSYhB67IA80Qni7dTBJqjxHoLg4Lrg01Cx0x3nddb19M/s1600/DSCF0466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFYlqCYYhfqb5w5wUSOdzd1gJRn6IQ9UfAES3ZbB5ZX0koOMwpz6s6X14_UiikwgPayeNInIQggai7zPgvldl6M5mNdhqKfK_guSYhB67IA80Qni7dTBJqjxHoLg4Lrg01Cx0x3nddb19M/s320/DSCF0466.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1YGU3QqyUU0vT26LXHJaa2wEkZNwCpm3tLyJXtNIUeNL03XWZAI2Ch8n14fvMlnJtneLSwOkZZsP2Uf1qSx-z6_8nsPItwHh-WOCbFcUbPQOc2-zpc9Lsii-ay2L-fw1MB5aThCDGvEbB/s1600/DSCF0463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1YGU3QqyUU0vT26LXHJaa2wEkZNwCpm3tLyJXtNIUeNL03XWZAI2Ch8n14fvMlnJtneLSwOkZZsP2Uf1qSx-z6_8nsPItwHh-WOCbFcUbPQOc2-zpc9Lsii-ay2L-fw1MB5aThCDGvEbB/s200/DSCF0463.JPG" width="200" /></a>The original walls marking the fields are also still there - showing each household where their own plot would be to grow their food, keep their pig and so on. Yet again it was like taking time travel. The villagers are still farming their village plots - it's just breathtaking and something that unless one walks the camino, one rarely gets to experience. It really takes us away from the tourist tracks and travels to places that one would not normally consider visiting. I am grateful to the Camino for this experience among many. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBvVlYhE-PNlMc-iLqsRC7xgwxKGsLkc5sNIdf7TmJMKmQ5bK9UkMwx-psfgI86utBNExzVEX9FP9KbnIP8QovTuIj8gr3q2dak8frTMKh2yAaO_oX4KpXzfNo0iGQIX90MxWLGTtDYJ15/s1600/DSCF0467.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBvVlYhE-PNlMc-iLqsRC7xgwxKGsLkc5sNIdf7TmJMKmQ5bK9UkMwx-psfgI86utBNExzVEX9FP9KbnIP8QovTuIj8gr3q2dak8frTMKh2yAaO_oX4KpXzfNo0iGQIX90MxWLGTtDYJ15/s640/DSCF0467.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWHT345BOfphBmJYtl74Q0Z6S__cRA713eeTqtJ3d7Qb3PnVlBt8fHGHz_xcsoKnZxkF2rlGW8z8yB00qvsGhtE6izrq41WFgt07J0EgYlYd9ONUgkIMR1FmW0etCFStZv8YlA6h6wHi12/s1600/IMG_6809.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWHT345BOfphBmJYtl74Q0Z6S__cRA713eeTqtJ3d7Qb3PnVlBt8fHGHz_xcsoKnZxkF2rlGW8z8yB00qvsGhtE6izrq41WFgt07J0EgYlYd9ONUgkIMR1FmW0etCFStZv8YlA6h6wHi12/s320/IMG_6809.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interesting tradition in this area of tying green bouquets<br />
of leaves over doorways or next to them - I'm trying to<br />
find out why and what this is means, but so far no joy.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnaqC1UCMf1u-aqSSlFIcyh7urUDw5fHf_0z166VP50qG6ejBamT0qL2Q12tJE7pf1X9xx4r-RRR4SMGD1SBkudqoPp5W5RpP4G3Qg9UdbeusRrA6oR_Dy5vFda1Fk4xqZ0IaysxIQ1Tp6/s1600/IMG_6808.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnaqC1UCMf1u-aqSSlFIcyh7urUDw5fHf_0z166VP50qG6ejBamT0qL2Q12tJE7pf1X9xx4r-RRR4SMGD1SBkudqoPp5W5RpP4G3Qg9UdbeusRrA6oR_Dy5vFda1Fk4xqZ0IaysxIQ1Tp6/s200/IMG_6808.JPG" width="200" /></a>On one section of extremely muddy track, through wonderful woodland, the big medieval (and maybe even Roman slabs) still helped us stay out of the puddles and prevented the mud from flowing over the top of my shoes. The route is wet from all the little springs that emerge along the way, no doubt these would have kept the pilgrim refreshed at one stage. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmw2FNYuttdhZqzzMXpLAaryZokq4Vb6n4wSXRtF2Zhpyiiuy2xfB9rxgRzak4C4jbqvKr-97ukk8-5lWjFEEvw6VQpLgBC3NZdBkkzi03qv7pBT_uGeBqo2pk4r6i3WQsp5Q6P6N3eMZM/s1600/DSCF0487.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmw2FNYuttdhZqzzMXpLAaryZokq4Vb6n4wSXRtF2Zhpyiiuy2xfB9rxgRzak4C4jbqvKr-97ukk8-5lWjFEEvw6VQpLgBC3NZdBkkzi03qv7pBT_uGeBqo2pk4r6i3WQsp5Q6P6N3eMZM/s200/DSCF0487.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thank you fellow perigrinos</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkQmLPrk3fuLeX4mvkB9Jdaak67XDTp-bzI0F_sKUdxiYQHfYa7TiRsh8HK2OqAAErjszAbnWK7DPqAOTsfaMqbdvJfBFP4EPlyNhTb5dp8u9INXltkuLFkKIYCm69H9hPevl2oAzU5Jug/s1600/DSCF0469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkQmLPrk3fuLeX4mvkB9Jdaak67XDTp-bzI0F_sKUdxiYQHfYa7TiRsh8HK2OqAAErjszAbnWK7DPqAOTsfaMqbdvJfBFP4EPlyNhTb5dp8u9INXltkuLFkKIYCm69H9hPevl2oAzU5Jug/s320/DSCF0469.JPG" width="320" /></a>Where route markers were hidden or less obvious, kind peregrinos has built arrows with stones or twigs. I found this a lot along this section of the Camino - from our start at Zamora all the way to Galicia. I just wish I had thought of this myself on earlier stages of the route that were unclear or rather ambiguous. In fact, there is one place in particular that should we be able to, we will go back to on our way home and place an arrow there - where near the beginning of this trip peregrinos ended up walking on the dangerous and fast main road near Montamarta and where we went horribly wrong at Granja de Moreruela.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtbDqlWSDGfP8HmYNVfTQsCKWCmHor-x1fAZCp1hd15sOobNUJxt7e3Ppii3YeOXHI6Yll057rKYsG_jN2IA3bs7GOj31dnah08_u1mDQm0TPgigh9zunDqoAZy5ETWXp6GamACM_9O_2k/s1600/DSCF0471.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtbDqlWSDGfP8HmYNVfTQsCKWCmHor-x1fAZCp1hd15sOobNUJxt7e3Ppii3YeOXHI6Yll057rKYsG_jN2IA3bs7GOj31dnah08_u1mDQm0TPgigh9zunDqoAZy5ETWXp6GamACM_9O_2k/s200/DSCF0471.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old slabs mark the original side<br />
of the road</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQJzsoCWEtGC6EEYyROcSBAYOjlGG6VP4gKkS5_wM1Sng_txv-Y7oKdSOxk-_ymmTrHCdtVFO2Sv40i49mKCcWybPj5zvErFDY4nIfTuNzjIFFF1BYA8qxIyWGCdXphCL7_VqOt4oNTv9c/s1600/DSCF0472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQJzsoCWEtGC6EEYyROcSBAYOjlGG6VP4gKkS5_wM1Sng_txv-Y7oKdSOxk-_ymmTrHCdtVFO2Sv40i49mKCcWybPj5zvErFDY4nIfTuNzjIFFF1BYA8qxIyWGCdXphCL7_VqOt4oNTv9c/s320/DSCF0472.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No doubts here then!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At Asturianos, the albergue apparently has 6 beds but it is not listed in the guidebook. The bar down the road on the right is expensive (and not particularly friendly - unusual for Spain) but despite this did an excellent bacon, eggs and coffee charging only 12 Euros for two! <br />
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The route is changing a lot, with various diversions along the way due to the railways and new roads, but the way is well marked and easy to follow. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwAtxgxDW56PAv1TSJbLE_ts_IwXXf2yxrVCTFMww6horVt_CMc7BNPIHU-s_lsTroO76jOGN782mf3eI5BvoExrJPVDkoRikbVBSIeIX-BGKpLpBkkm1E204GHTUz5TgobxV1UXsFbfoe/s1600/DSCF0479.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwAtxgxDW56PAv1TSJbLE_ts_IwXXf2yxrVCTFMww6horVt_CMc7BNPIHU-s_lsTroO76jOGN782mf3eI5BvoExrJPVDkoRikbVBSIeIX-BGKpLpBkkm1E204GHTUz5TgobxV1UXsFbfoe/s640/DSCF0479.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Large old road slabs help us keep our feet dry - Kaishi also appreciates this! She's not a dog that likes to get her<br />
feet wet, unless the rest of her is swimming!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Such a beautiful walk today - right out in the countryside and actually, I only saw other pilgrims as I neared my destination at Otero de Sanabria.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxm_iAQhA_Ahw7Bj_zLg3FNKst8JqAqvqfG_t3kMSQx0wCMEizqAsGIOxMUIepmvw2aTIvjPbo8l0JjfwLyOg52MTTkeeYyavME71EPoyLzi2yI7Ll3MHWGRjwWPrwhGdYXauonRUbxtRH/s1600/DSCF0485.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxm_iAQhA_Ahw7Bj_zLg3FNKst8JqAqvqfG_t3kMSQx0wCMEizqAsGIOxMUIepmvw2aTIvjPbo8l0JjfwLyOg52MTTkeeYyavME71EPoyLzi2yI7Ll3MHWGRjwWPrwhGdYXauonRUbxtRH/s320/DSCF0485.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHD7a7xFw7RatOCbSRnrVMOBK7zyqDAh5gDrfubinAfZpAEU43x1vSaCuts83BHlvtKuLXFiWa8Lkp6CcHh_xY1ED4NZvvCirr56nEw6UPdQpiCpVjEG_rVGrVG7mqS_IMUmJuqd-Q2tpM/s1600/DSCF0483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHD7a7xFw7RatOCbSRnrVMOBK7zyqDAh5gDrfubinAfZpAEU43x1vSaCuts83BHlvtKuLXFiWa8Lkp6CcHh_xY1ED4NZvvCirr56nEw6UPdQpiCpVjEG_rVGrVG7mqS_IMUmJuqd-Q2tpM/s200/DSCF0483.JPG" width="150" /></a>The various caminos start to merge into each other along the way - although I am officially still following the Levante route with my Levante guidebook, we are also on the Via de la Plata and Sanabrés routes. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfObwGsiDA_lv_1wa55e8LKfz66j2-GIFYu1maH4RXgmta-bF8c0Rgx8SKyCZbyxriFg_6Xxu0_k9Joz7O3ZwVEANgGl1YcQcp1qvz7Mnu2555ZSeMWveyHAIduE-7iesRZPlFD34f-hdt/s1600/IMG_6829.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfObwGsiDA_lv_1wa55e8LKfz66j2-GIFYu1maH4RXgmta-bF8c0Rgx8SKyCZbyxriFg_6Xxu0_k9Joz7O3ZwVEANgGl1YcQcp1qvz7Mnu2555ZSeMWveyHAIduE-7iesRZPlFD34f-hdt/s200/IMG_6829.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6VzSNFUxSZcGXi7xS3jsuSTriXgccPNxinr1HeO6xJ5YH_1rgQL8LfaXF4Vr-a_0blcCGzA09afQ08dPwHwUn-Hp65vLu-2R-mF3blV5AtNzEbMjNMSeZmU2gsgCvGthV8CDNIWGwJjQl/s1600/IMG_6833.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6VzSNFUxSZcGXi7xS3jsuSTriXgccPNxinr1HeO6xJ5YH_1rgQL8LfaXF4Vr-a_0blcCGzA09afQ08dPwHwUn-Hp65vLu-2R-mF3blV5AtNzEbMjNMSeZmU2gsgCvGthV8CDNIWGwJjQl/s200/IMG_6833.JPG" width="200" /></a>Lovely tracks to our final destination today with some great camino signs. Collecting photos of these is part of the fun! On reaching Triufé (a lovely little village with some great places to renovate, along with some already renovated!) I met a couple of people working on their allotments. I said what a "muy bonito" village they have and they were very happy and directed me to where there was a good pub to eat... sadly we never found it! After reaching the support vehicle and driving off to locate it we must have taken a wrong turn, so ended up just heading back to Puebla de Sanabria instead and having a bit of a trek round looking for lunch, in fact returning to a lovely place where we had had dinner a couple of days before, up towards the castle. It was lovely to do some site seeing and wander the old walls and town as tourists for the afternoon before heading back to our cabin again.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2hnTJxj4QGO7QLPaONjccj_IhvlmxM_lBHnpFl0SeKgjgHRw8tro6rDm-RV4SdNwPIZ-UDnfZrJVs7ALpjQat6wI0h37V04t2cwy4IoudaK3hKaMpUF7LtF8H0rOn8tztumh7IHKP5O5K/s1600/DSCF0489.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2hnTJxj4QGO7QLPaONjccj_IhvlmxM_lBHnpFl0SeKgjgHRw8tro6rDm-RV4SdNwPIZ-UDnfZrJVs7ALpjQat6wI0h37V04t2cwy4IoudaK3hKaMpUF7LtF8H0rOn8tztumh7IHKP5O5K/s320/DSCF0489.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old - beautiful and crying out for restoration...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4kM7QMfpQHfT8KRyTgQkfT2WDBFzA3luqxmkNnnIbpE_8aZKBxeyLqlBZwKyTfWb_lqyMUyNcnKzMzNkR-MvVJ1eHk2bGFRzUKg94AVArj_cRB8zGL518lH6e0nbZoc4970XaNlW6-ePZ/s1600/IMG_6838.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4kM7QMfpQHfT8KRyTgQkfT2WDBFzA3luqxmkNnnIbpE_8aZKBxeyLqlBZwKyTfWb_lqyMUyNcnKzMzNkR-MvVJ1eHk2bGFRzUKg94AVArj_cRB8zGL518lH6e0nbZoc4970XaNlW6-ePZ/s320/IMG_6838.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The new... renovated and lived in again</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJNkRTLQm4-69AIzvSGGTag59rAPrf5W6Ui2DhB6gvg1gQfFcXJt-uy1yi6O915bbusmP0jUfsLthm64E2kPEkXzVhrjiX2ARtOE_bZa0sol2f8feKuUSAn3DKvhaiR9q7cP4KIrHwXdw9/s1600/IMG_6836.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJNkRTLQm4-69AIzvSGGTag59rAPrf5W6Ui2DhB6gvg1gQfFcXJt-uy1yi6O915bbusmP0jUfsLthm64E2kPEkXzVhrjiX2ARtOE_bZa0sol2f8feKuUSAn3DKvhaiR9q7cP4KIrHwXdw9/s320/IMG_6836.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiCAEs4r-1RKsACOD5SgJVo0DG2D9BnOW-ZuBnablXYfq-wRSeBFW8AYfOx9ynEr-uZhQniITZ1OmUlhhZqPgJZNFSCareP-t6m2Rzyrnd1D4QnUDIzEhHTy6BLljr0yHVMX8BLcluwF8Z/s1600/DSCF0497.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiCAEs4r-1RKsACOD5SgJVo0DG2D9BnOW-ZuBnablXYfq-wRSeBFW8AYfOx9ynEr-uZhQniITZ1OmUlhhZqPgJZNFSCareP-t6m2Rzyrnd1D4QnUDIzEhHTy6BLljr0yHVMX8BLcluwF8Z/s200/DSCF0497.JPG" width="200" /></a>There was a lovely little church in Triufé which sang of St James. The coloured pictures on the door, the shell above it... everything says El Camino the further north we head. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ahead lie the mountains again, which I will start to walk<br />up into the day after tomorrow</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The castle in Pueblo de Sanabria - a lovely town but very much tourist destination for hikers and those<br />wanting to explore into Galicia. It is the kind of gateway to the next province.</td></tr>
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Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-47910081356804960662015-08-15T16:12:00.002-07:002015-08-15T16:12:55.912-07:00El Camino (Levante) - Rionegro del Puente to Cernadilla (17.2km) Tuesday 13th May<b>El Camino Levante - Rionegro del Puente to Cernadilla (17.2km) Tuesday 13th May</b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikjfHIL4kqWFNk8kute7OuRXTDTVea38COh8SDLCPQhw1PF1FA8qWx41UUktcd74g7wMoazQ6tCR8OVFFjJR_AWYJKKZloUmD-mhyBpDlBlMC_QwXPXK190eFTT6E22qPu-xjhhizeBM-W/s1600/IMG_6784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikjfHIL4kqWFNk8kute7OuRXTDTVea38COh8SDLCPQhw1PF1FA8qWx41UUktcd74g7wMoazQ6tCR8OVFFjJR_AWYJKKZloUmD-mhyBpDlBlMC_QwXPXK190eFTT6E22qPu-xjhhizeBM-W/s200/IMG_6784.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chilly start from Rionegro!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3nxqpx4R4iVo1CzvSGY4ynJKGtIdi8JQ3PUUEkA6frh4H-g0x7WMpfVncVQ_ITlDW_RR9Ewzpnl-DkZHUQrGJtmVYF0QS_ltyUhi3x_PtPFCmE_XyjJillbzOn5Sak_v8zFeLz-ummaW9/s1600/IMG_6785.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3nxqpx4R4iVo1CzvSGY4ynJKGtIdi8JQ3PUUEkA6frh4H-g0x7WMpfVncVQ_ITlDW_RR9Ewzpnl-DkZHUQrGJtmVYF0QS_ltyUhi3x_PtPFCmE_XyjJillbzOn5Sak_v8zFeLz-ummaW9/s200/IMG_6785.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Route change for the better - leaving<br />
Rionegro</td></tr>
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Sadly a "lot" more on tar, which seems to be becoming the norm on this section of the camino, especially with the new railway being built and diversions all over the place. I do hope that once it is done, they will reinstate the country camino route and take it back along the off road trails, just adding in appropriate bridges and underpasses where necessary as they have done elsewhere. It's such a shame, because it means many, many additional kilometres and it is tiring on the feet. The distances planned become much greater and one could see Peregrinos flagging along the way and also tired of the tar. It's not the camino at all in these situations, it does not have the feel of it and it feels like a means to an end rather than a spiritual journey. Tar makes the feet ache, even through good walking shoes - it's totally different walking on earth tracks, even if the ground is hard. Tar is unforgiving and it numbs the mind and soul. The Camino usually invigorates and inspires, even when one is tired.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXVbed9Y8JWAvImIRxfdaJqdzvCOYtgo9wzQuMOtb1x0fsDivg2O0gd8b_6U-COe_xYYOH6C6hFAMqPHpDeY4d2n2OTS670eXM8be1b_U3WK1DvHeBMdkHJIUOC7cRsDp1boswl-8qCT9o/s1600/DSCF0446.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXVbed9Y8JWAvImIRxfdaJqdzvCOYtgo9wzQuMOtb1x0fsDivg2O0gd8b_6U-COe_xYYOH6C6hFAMqPHpDeY4d2n2OTS670eXM8be1b_U3WK1DvHeBMdkHJIUOC7cRsDp1boswl-8qCT9o/s200/DSCF0446.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQAOJtK_oSOhauYoajc7iS0oHFkTU8yO7Sa06ay1bdvx8bCbkXqiYBcjEhvbxq_VLckWsVwsNiP761neZ9g844Ph09ZXSTdoowlBnQ4cRlbR_OH2-_XYYMMkEQrqK43rrLAPgAmPr6mYJT/s1600/DSCF0450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQAOJtK_oSOhauYoajc7iS0oHFkTU8yO7Sa06ay1bdvx8bCbkXqiYBcjEhvbxq_VLckWsVwsNiP761neZ9g844Ph09ZXSTdoowlBnQ4cRlbR_OH2-_XYYMMkEQrqK43rrLAPgAmPr6mYJT/s200/DSCF0450.JPG" width="200" /></a>At least at the beginning of the day the roads were lanes and quiet and we did at least find out how the French guys are walking - going forwards, swapping ends and cars, with (we think) their wives... There was also one change for the better - a country route out of Rionegro, along tracks rather than along roads and road crossings. The first village that one meets is Mombuey, and with buey meaning beef (ox), the origin of the name is fairly easy to work out - Mount and Ox - Ox Mountain, although no one is too sure why! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqR75NmH0ARfQhVRyZ1vizE_LtHdZUZSb1aBA-HIjXtVxIiYXRDgYbq2Z9CUSs_TidtyBQW_9s1xE0j03eNQoODoiO4fd8qT7Sgs_9O-KS2USmNPYrn2w8cvtft4o7exU1yeZFudgR2PfG/s1600/DSCF0448.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqR75NmH0ARfQhVRyZ1vizE_LtHdZUZSb1aBA-HIjXtVxIiYXRDgYbq2Z9CUSs_TidtyBQW_9s1xE0j03eNQoODoiO4fd8qT7Sgs_9O-KS2USmNPYrn2w8cvtft4o7exU1yeZFudgR2PfG/s200/DSCF0448.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAX2laxaFvnn7s8mWgkmLkhfFZKA00rUaIy9ZeMOkrtZVkcM8dk8HTvXaSlOU53wpBPl5saSYl4nEWfeyEIybXDEAQ4rk2CJKM98lhM2y3tzL6Cez3nqgG43fiib1wijLlzvWG0aW2xL6b/s1600/DSCF0447.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAX2laxaFvnn7s8mWgkmLkhfFZKA00rUaIy9ZeMOkrtZVkcM8dk8HTvXaSlOU53wpBPl5saSYl4nEWfeyEIybXDEAQ4rk2CJKM98lhM2y3tzL6Cez3nqgG43fiib1wijLlzvWG0aW2xL6b/s320/DSCF0447.JPG" width="240" /></a>There is also a very mysterious tower, and no one is sure what it was for but one of the stone decorations includes an ox and there are various stone symbols of pagan cults. It includes a refuge chamber in the upper part of the tower which can apparently hold up to 40 people! The only way to it is from the exterior balcony - as there is no staircase to the chamber (!!) This tower "never" formed part of the church although today it does, and it shows no sign of having been used for defending the area! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxa2PAfXLCs88_DNpZVbRZJQwitHkXUfzPNSIWEIMAJX2NErBGgVLHyS479IWI_TWLqSl7LIx3DdqOZ7dM0F_ReJQDxM2TC3JnYR78jNcJRPZSspXNQg98W31pMKI9LbNPi5e6oXtThA-r/s1600/DSCF0454.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxa2PAfXLCs88_DNpZVbRZJQwitHkXUfzPNSIWEIMAJX2NErBGgVLHyS479IWI_TWLqSl7LIx3DdqOZ7dM0F_ReJQDxM2TC3JnYR78jNcJRPZSspXNQg98W31pMKI9LbNPi5e6oXtThA-r/s200/DSCF0454.JPG" width="200" /></a>Heading out of Mombuey, the way was very pretty, quiet little villages with little going on except some allotment work, again it felt like the self sufficiency of the middle ages. Old buildings with flowers growing out of the cracks in the walls, some renovated and some that were beautiful and just waiting for someone to see their potential and revive them. They could tell stories of the people who once lived there if only the walls could talk. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-m3WP_HyrW9oJqK8k1PoNlD5vEUpLQ_UwPWn-md27MG3DPrw3cxgwdl7HwL_Ou8NPzMTLXXAcKTCatsJNdcDkrafBZD3AKyYO5TSluWlgUvcc_fqsJ1rYacN59PTJzn6EY1MVAeKZ3qcm/s1600/DSCF0456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-m3WP_HyrW9oJqK8k1PoNlD5vEUpLQ_UwPWn-md27MG3DPrw3cxgwdl7HwL_Ou8NPzMTLXXAcKTCatsJNdcDkrafBZD3AKyYO5TSluWlgUvcc_fqsJ1rYacN59PTJzn6EY1MVAeKZ3qcm/s320/DSCF0456.JPG" width="240" /></a>I met another peregrina, who had fallen in love with walking El Camino. She had come a long way, in fact walking the whole of the Via de la Plata from Seville this trip. She estimated her trip would take her to Santiago in around 7 weeks. That's some going and the weather is hot and some of the distances in the early part of the Via de la Plata are long, dry, without shade and without water. I seem to remember in research that there were a couple of sections around 40km or so! In fact, on our return to Alhama, we decided to drive south following the route parallel to this camino and the heat of the month of May was really setting in. We crossed the Via de la Plata a few times and could see scorched pilgrims trudging their way northwards in the searing heat. I did not envy them.<br />
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The peregrina told me that she first fell in love with El Camino when she walked the Frances. She felt it was the most spiritual - but then that might have been because it was her first. That was 9 years ago and she had been walking caminos ever since. She felt the Via de la Plata was more of a walk in nature and that it had a different feel, but we also both agreed that it can be more easy to chat and be distracted away from really experiencing your camino if you meet lots of people, which you do on the Frances. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrXRrnG0kjBcVCscMuV_Fbs_Vb9XioPt5P1_lLYi0NkCXWFM129qJyfPnnR_jXsE5a7-0cN-Wow43idA2iewIAiN6MLTsCDHf-xcN1yotjis_SqCxY0C43HukabnK7eMEZinUrrHAdWloo/s1600/DSCF0459.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrXRrnG0kjBcVCscMuV_Fbs_Vb9XioPt5P1_lLYi0NkCXWFM129qJyfPnnR_jXsE5a7-0cN-Wow43idA2iewIAiN6MLTsCDHf-xcN1yotjis_SqCxY0C43HukabnK7eMEZinUrrHAdWloo/s200/DSCF0459.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After receiving my sello at the<br />
ayuntamiento in Cernadilla</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC774kLXj-I33LGEzyl9QFH0r-L0LMeovP2CHvZt1ONCgmlvlnWPbFT3nu1J2oEa2N2bKClML9ZRHmFgeO8gLF5CIPahADsbfbA7DNK-49TlXbRlS4TftoTDBkVAtggouKFlhNaoA4Yee0/s1600/IMG_6791.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC774kLXj-I33LGEzyl9QFH0r-L0LMeovP2CHvZt1ONCgmlvlnWPbFT3nu1J2oEa2N2bKClML9ZRHmFgeO8gLF5CIPahADsbfbA7DNK-49TlXbRlS4TftoTDBkVAtggouKFlhNaoA4Yee0/s200/IMG_6791.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tiny villages - one was<br />
Vallermerilla, with a population<br />
of only 11 souls!</td></tr>
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One can lose the camino experience on the Frances if one is not careful or mindful and I have read accounts or watched video diaries from pilgrims who say exactly this - they suddenly neared the end of their travels and found themselves wishing they could get back what they had lost, realising that they had not paid full attention to "just walking" and being in the moment. They had been chatting and in a different head space, not actually being in the moment at all. I have been grateful for walking the Levante route and for not encountering pilgrims at all for the first 800km. Walking it this May has also confirmed for me that walking in the months of October/November is also better - because fewer pilgrims are walking, as well as the fact that it is much easier to walk in cooler weather!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Srld6qn82eSq8SpauhLPXO9wCAxbSIH3WcFtBVfZxDyWBWVNK-MJPqx6fU3S4BFUoe3ANoa6lPsg-orWZtPo2q8NUry2Z6t3sWvU-7ZQGn_L2aTfneFerqFSUovfPuVzUxFaRoZTA0jY/s1600/IMG_6798.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Srld6qn82eSq8SpauhLPXO9wCAxbSIH3WcFtBVfZxDyWBWVNK-MJPqx6fU3S4BFUoe3ANoa6lPsg-orWZtPo2q8NUry2Z6t3sWvU-7ZQGn_L2aTfneFerqFSUovfPuVzUxFaRoZTA0jY/s320/IMG_6798.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back in Sanabria - the lake where we ran the dogs each<br />
day and let them swim and have fun before heading<br />
back to our cabin.</td></tr>
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On arriving in Cernadilla, I was amazed that I even found anyone in the ayuntamiento to stamp my passport. I was astonished. Such a quiet and sleepy town, not a soul to be found actually out in the streets and I really thought that the town hall might be closed! At this point, on this trip, I had completed another 130.7km of my Camino toward Santiago! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGCGra4m8UcGhBOnwjybJB6QXFXDrBcQN6Itqo5Swjtoz6a6TxFWh5Ovdo9Qu22PkRdaV6knP6aQHNbFdzs2jIp-NOMjW_ttKBRQP95xbPYN2o3iGybp9rRTtX6JY21Tn3bn57su7L6mcg/s1600/IMG_6802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGCGra4m8UcGhBOnwjybJB6QXFXDrBcQN6Itqo5Swjtoz6a6TxFWh5Ovdo9Qu22PkRdaV6knP6aQHNbFdzs2jIp-NOMjW_ttKBRQP95xbPYN2o3iGybp9rRTtX6JY21Tn3bn57su7L6mcg/s200/IMG_6802.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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Being with the dogs is always a great way to relax at the end of the day. Yume demonstrated her prowess for fetching sticks - although she only really likes to fetch things out of water. She is a funny dog!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6qbVyr9Rvt8hUrQyqLMydxkXSzhIwZmjICxkxIcRienUXnoVJuiQTymQWXauSP0j7r3fydXIL4XbB6Dv7ePyZANOAa6orSXj1PMyNTn5IZKqxRe04s7X08hnpAV_DHkUR2ik5TuxCMpLL/s1600/IMG_6801.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6qbVyr9Rvt8hUrQyqLMydxkXSzhIwZmjICxkxIcRienUXnoVJuiQTymQWXauSP0j7r3fydXIL4XbB6Dv7ePyZANOAa6orSXj1PMyNTn5IZKqxRe04s7X08hnpAV_DHkUR2ik5TuxCMpLL/s320/IMG_6801.JPG" width="320" /></a>After a good splash and often a fast and furious game of chase up and down the shoreline, the dogs are always ready for their beauty sleep. Although as you can see in the photo here, Yume is always up for a bit of extra bone chewing - her energy knows no bounds! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN6h942MfdoHjYwFi44ol4VNNQl_3KaEwfbFSkxlR6aSg32qcg-MkYfQciOht0JlzdkvvqxrthbWYKFAxl1OuKiAnPfwBy7D1_BdNWL1mz8pf2kH0l5knDGrG-F63uVNYve6wdVVh43FnZ/s1600/IMG_6803.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN6h942MfdoHjYwFi44ol4VNNQl_3KaEwfbFSkxlR6aSg32qcg-MkYfQciOht0JlzdkvvqxrthbWYKFAxl1OuKiAnPfwBy7D1_BdNWL1mz8pf2kH0l5knDGrG-F63uVNYve6wdVVh43FnZ/s320/IMG_6803.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Time for bed after a long day on the camino</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2tsdqfyVMIkXIQRzQxbVQIjh2Rs9bHvb0esnEfp5zeY4vAFe-aS1nvJzR79A5S7VVhmkPK1Ix2fCmzKXj1B62hOQ_mVZV0M11D0V57ZxM0a5agrFjppNVSeUH5bhX4lGkp9JbxdSoNz0t/s1600/DSCF0451.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2tsdqfyVMIkXIQRzQxbVQIjh2Rs9bHvb0esnEfp5zeY4vAFe-aS1nvJzR79A5S7VVhmkPK1Ix2fCmzKXj1B62hOQ_mVZV0M11D0V57ZxM0a5agrFjppNVSeUH5bhX4lGkp9JbxdSoNz0t/s200/DSCF0451.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interesting diversion sign on the<br />
route that took us away from<br />
the tar road for a change.<br />
One has to hope that it is meant to be<br />
this way up for the sake of the arrow...??!</td></tr>
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Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-64023188996373500182015-08-15T10:30:00.000-07:002015-08-15T10:44:46.844-07:00El Camino (Levante) - River crossing at Camarzana de Tera to Rionegro del Puente (18.8km) Monday 12th May, 2014<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>River crossing at Camarzana de Tera to Rionegro del Puente (18.8km) Monday 12th May, 2014</b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old abandoned Albergue</td></tr>
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It then turns left along the canal but the arrows end up taking us to the old albergue which is no longer in operation and there are sad forgotten grave markers propped inside and one has to go through a hedge! Turning left at the road through the hedge and then over the canal and left again, this is where you pick up the arrows and continue along the canal.<br />
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There are albergues, but they are mostly private ones, but are clean, nice and have good home made food - especially those of "La Trucha" and "Toro" which can be found in the lovely little village of Olleros de Tera. They are well signed on the route and also offer a good breakfast if you have been up and walking early in the refreshing morning. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhALHtrdvbq6Bf3VFNpnsWRzNJYDHx6ezOy4MQgqLWtvjLyH6fGfyPJ7uW2nbe_8QbiFD0wLzfoIrbZkYcgLjBctWKdrGDuAPQYrk1ywORwUVReSUhWK26dZ_dFinCSdB2rg_5rEKMEL2Jw/s1600/IMG_6749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhALHtrdvbq6Bf3VFNpnsWRzNJYDHx6ezOy4MQgqLWtvjLyH6fGfyPJ7uW2nbe_8QbiFD0wLzfoIrbZkYcgLjBctWKdrGDuAPQYrk1ywORwUVReSUhWK26dZ_dFinCSdB2rg_5rEKMEL2Jw/s200/IMG_6749.JPG" width="200" /></a>The route then takes you along way by tar by the dam to Villar de Farfón where there can be found a new Albergue that is not mentioned in the guide book (or at least not the one I have and that was still the only one available at the time I originally bought it... I am not sure if there has been an update since, but certainly not in 2013.) The early route is confusing as as one approaches the dam there is a route that heads off to the right, with arrows, through scrub. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qPJqf5gThfqJGgCIiC4Ht5hy8A4dcRsqa6i7CXAloE9F4eYJgWaqO0ij9qBt931pL3_XTPxfq4uFZobtfycolHJHrQtuy3qrmTIEdGchT0vHdbMTAWCqHkPAfOj-V1fOisU9gkamfkrO/s1600/IMG_6743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_qPJqf5gThfqJGgCIiC4Ht5hy8A4dcRsqa6i7CXAloE9F4eYJgWaqO0ij9qBt931pL3_XTPxfq4uFZobtfycolHJHrQtuy3qrmTIEdGchT0vHdbMTAWCqHkPAfOj-V1fOisU9gkamfkrO/s200/IMG_6743.JPG" width="200" /></a>It's a lovely walk but overgrown and with old arrows and it takes the pilgrim down to an area of flood plain, which if they opened the dam could cause serious problems and even cut off the pilgrim or create a risk of drowning! It is important to note that the upper road is the one that is supposed to be taken, but as in many cases on the camino, the old markers are not removed but still linger. </div>
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The route is less interesting but safer and will take mostly gravel/tar routes until reaching the dam (where again I saw the two walkers going in reverse but was not able to catch them up or direct them to the prettier reverse walk).. Also, the old route would have taken the pilgrim on a bridge crossing which is now at the foot of the dam and no longer in existence. It's interesting to see, but also makes me think (as on a number of occasions) that a great job is being done on keeping markers updated and refreshed, but old ones should really be removed! This particular section could be very dangerous at the wrong time!! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtWwnyHc6ZvgmE0AMEUdU-5cAkGgve2g2BsJVSwvSElNxXJBfEkh9sjzacC9x8ZA2w3QJcjQ_7tB_FJ4KbNhNazBPAMWyYFYt51Ci8BkbhGpUSeKWdZyEgnGdP7aI3zs-oBHqcOYkienpD/s1600/IMG_6742.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtWwnyHc6ZvgmE0AMEUdU-5cAkGgve2g2BsJVSwvSElNxXJBfEkh9sjzacC9x8ZA2w3QJcjQ_7tB_FJ4KbNhNazBPAMWyYFYt51Ci8BkbhGpUSeKWdZyEgnGdP7aI3zs-oBHqcOYkienpD/s640/IMG_6742.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Of course the dogs, and in particular Yume, loved the dam walk!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLCbmESEbX4fHgCmTr8TAs2wKklba_14K9RLSspTAZTp1nyyEa7Nb_j8TgV-TzYhQCqxSaZrJAIJUP8WDPe7b78oLpqRAMmbcd8zZR69WGDlnY3yk7fUi7SLTeoaeJaT9wQaMFwwEupk5v/s1600/DSCF0419.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLCbmESEbX4fHgCmTr8TAs2wKklba_14K9RLSspTAZTp1nyyEa7Nb_j8TgV-TzYhQCqxSaZrJAIJUP8WDPe7b78oLpqRAMmbcd8zZR69WGDlnY3yk7fUi7SLTeoaeJaT9wQaMFwwEupk5v/s200/DSCF0419.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd_EayoBLmz-NiGeNrhYZ3-YULylopTauStOTWekYbokiUOqVXQu0NVreq-JbWLFaEJVOkKboElA3nR6tl9kAwiz_NW-6Jh5kBe7B94WoGRh6ad5Zj-sSAER_T_8O-50hwMaItzcbTXNjV/s1600/DSCF0418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd_EayoBLmz-NiGeNrhYZ3-YULylopTauStOTWekYbokiUOqVXQu0NVreq-JbWLFaEJVOkKboElA3nR6tl9kAwiz_NW-6Jh5kBe7B94WoGRh6ad5Zj-sSAER_T_8O-50hwMaItzcbTXNjV/s200/DSCF0418.JPG" width="200" /></a>On meeting up with the support vehicle, we decided that we would all walk together for a while and the dogs could have a run and play in the water. They love dams and as it was a particularly hot day, it seemed the perfect opportunity for them. As there was a lovely cup of coffee drawn on a sign that suggested refreshment could be found at Villar de Farfón, we decided that this would be the perfect place for us to stop, it's around 3km from the dam and at the start of yet another piece of very old "medieval" preserved camino which takes the Peregrino through to Rionegro del Puente. There are so many wonderful old cobbles, some in place but many also dug up and thrown aside. There are side markers along the way, like old curb stones, and in places old ridge stones, stone masoned to fit together like an elongated jigsaw. I love these stretches, they feel ancient and filled with the energy of past pilgrims. There are trees that offer cooling shade along the way and this particular stretch is totally amongst countryside so that one feels one is walking in the past itself.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuccETZSWpPw707uJFYqSGxISChvs6bJmCYDOL3raOlCNaT5DC17WJHiwzReb_zIJyt3-MCqfaD9E_BVrUNSXee3zQd4jjvUhLcO64d__PftFFFgt7r2LmKDtX2mc4qQfGm-NsDqDwa3Gx/s1600/DSCF0421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuccETZSWpPw707uJFYqSGxISChvs6bJmCYDOL3raOlCNaT5DC17WJHiwzReb_zIJyt3-MCqfaD9E_BVrUNSXee3zQd4jjvUhLcO64d__PftFFFgt7r2LmKDtX2mc4qQfGm-NsDqDwa3Gx/s320/DSCF0421.JPG" width="240" /></a>The following photos really capture the walk to and along the dam - little Yume my faithful companion for the day and loving playing among the trees, exploring to her heart's content. My favourite thing - shadow photos.... and the ancient arrows still looking fresh on the trees although this is "not" the correct route since the dam has been created!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfTxuvtK93y17ZbaHQHQiFEWE0L0QoWbmMU-GnwsrtSeIW6weWpT5etIVplirhBDfKR9iO1zKXI2x85yrQFJTmt6l9ewNVWbCXPRlxZah_vH7qyOQEGpMmItWYYVVwhb4j0JUbTt9ANtrX/s1600/DSCF0426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfTxuvtK93y17ZbaHQHQiFEWE0L0QoWbmMU-GnwsrtSeIW6weWpT5etIVplirhBDfKR9iO1zKXI2x85yrQFJTmt6l9ewNVWbCXPRlxZah_vH7qyOQEGpMmItWYYVVwhb4j0JUbTt9ANtrX/s320/DSCF0426.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEius1hEeq1DZeHMFO_zzpQVQiVbMC0Ama4OiFs81dEs8QFYU3_t8mMIFSPnX6CQJdNtPPrnoRUs731s4Qtie7NWv58aoTA12ey_BVd74F8RrK7OT8mC7wc1HJhxl6Epd0t_z95Q1OzJTwRR/s1600/DSCF0429.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEius1hEeq1DZeHMFO_zzpQVQiVbMC0Ama4OiFs81dEs8QFYU3_t8mMIFSPnX6CQJdNtPPrnoRUs731s4Qtie7NWv58aoTA12ey_BVd74F8RrK7OT8mC7wc1HJhxl6Epd0t_z95Q1OzJTwRR/s200/DSCF0429.JPG" width="200" /></a>The two wonderful people at the new albergue (4 bed and growing) are Dorothea and Craig, both missionaries who have done a fabulous job renovating the old buildings and creating a haven of tranquility for the Peregrino. They new South Africa and we chatted about Ridgebacks. They loved them. They had also worked in India and Malawi. On arrival we were welcomed with coffee and biscuits and we could have spent the day chatting. I wished I had known about this place as I would most certainly have stayed with them.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmnEShrguY6QS_3oZ7R3SuXwlRO7qyb93Jc_fVyq15jg0e-YP8yu8qNhHYIEDk_7MzzaCPCOk5OiG7pEq81n5yO3R7RkK91jTVx6QQiwAkp504dCu7vD937lJQBSvBf4VQqnXZIMZ1V2rN/s1600/DSCF0427.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmnEShrguY6QS_3oZ7R3SuXwlRO7qyb93Jc_fVyq15jg0e-YP8yu8qNhHYIEDk_7MzzaCPCOk5OiG7pEq81n5yO3R7RkK91jTVx6QQiwAkp504dCu7vD937lJQBSvBf4VQqnXZIMZ1V2rN/s200/DSCF0427.JPG" width="150" /></a>I loved this section of the walk and could have walked it all day. I finally entered Rionegro over an old pilgrim bridge (sadly now concrete) and having collected a ridgestone for my mother. It was discarded to the side and abandoned among its companions. Ahead there was a shepherd with his flock and I could have been transported back hundreds of years. Only a couple of other pilgrims had passed me, one walking at quite a pace (as actually so many do!) with his scallop shell bobbing on the back of his back pack. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Always good to have great home<br />
cooked food and a vino tinto at<br />
the end of a good day on the camino!</td></tr>
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<ul>
<li>Have lentejas with Esther at Bar Palacio - and they have a great sello</li>
<li>Have tortilla and home made chorizo at Bar La Trucha (also with a nice sello) who also have great coffee</li>
<li>Stay at Albergue Rehoboth</li>
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Rehoboth - means "Broad Places" and is the name of 3 biblical places:<br />
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<li>A well in Gerar dug by Isaac</li>
<li>An ancient city where Saul came from</li>
<li>A town in Genesis</li>
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Thanks to Dorothea and Craig for the history/bible lesson on that one - very interesting! Check out www.pilgrimmission.org and call on 647 297 390.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small yellow marker on a stone on the "old" camino<br />
route!</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGx5e2j_-jOY5UbuNOF1Ua8O1rziPh_GF4hMintsil8ckX8e4_dt8vFX2kO2SCwVQDYbDSG0KqgJr1PwVMpSbP3wSugdquntpcE-cGQMP-mvqC4RQ_NZpbzlYVlXUmJ4LG-eSM5JXpuHgD/s1600/DSCF0435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGx5e2j_-jOY5UbuNOF1Ua8O1rziPh_GF4hMintsil8ckX8e4_dt8vFX2kO2SCwVQDYbDSG0KqgJr1PwVMpSbP3wSugdquntpcE-cGQMP-mvqC4RQ_NZpbzlYVlXUmJ4LG-eSM5JXpuHgD/s320/DSCF0435.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixuxGoZ-Rk9-dUAijmQ5sk7MQp0BFhjTZQSAPVMcPvStwWW0Emkg8rsvePsD8Sgd3gORFGdxDzeaxS-3ECnqTgD-7FxIqsTiGyijwPpHwJt6tdgdJxbGs6KzOffOdG-FWCYlDChVIoW1LP/s1600/DSCF0430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixuxGoZ-Rk9-dUAijmQ5sk7MQp0BFhjTZQSAPVMcPvStwWW0Emkg8rsvePsD8Sgd3gORFGdxDzeaxS-3ECnqTgD-7FxIqsTiGyijwPpHwJt6tdgdJxbGs6KzOffOdG-FWCYlDChVIoW1LP/s200/DSCF0430.JPG" width="200" /></a>Stunning views from the top of the dam wall, across the woodland that Yume and I had just walked through... followed by the "steaming cup of coffee" - to be had at Rehoboth with Dorothea and Craig.</div>
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The entrance to Rehoboth, where we had coffee, tea and biscuits and a good chat in the shade. The dogs waited in the car under a tree and we whiled away quite some time before heading off along the medieval track - about 9 perfect kilometres as though I had traveled back in time. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWpolcstzJ0jFtbroNuB8x6y32kiRGyd7AyF67GsdGEyNMXVaVEL08aRmI4xObQvH6y3jqTKVmfU41IX993B1JAnXWbSGILkkP9fAHvVo-VkhsvAiOLDdOMyNBCNjNRK1BIgMHM1aecwTq/s1600/DSCF0437.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWpolcstzJ0jFtbroNuB8x6y32kiRGyd7AyF67GsdGEyNMXVaVEL08aRmI4xObQvH6y3jqTKVmfU41IX993B1JAnXWbSGILkkP9fAHvVo-VkhsvAiOLDdOMyNBCNjNRK1BIgMHM1aecwTq/s200/DSCF0437.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rehoboth... welcomes you</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOSXqtyxyRSfQIQlj1GZ_LpqTXLX6DzDfAwNYbKhyphenhyphenlqVNfjby95v9fs1ZxTUQtZHTLV63dPLKyaEPmfVE2zlfLSSTB_NvbNXqZtpguQ2Y9S4gGE9yFJIATNN1vOTMjX3fEzS-Ma4MSTtTx/s1600/DSCF0438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOSXqtyxyRSfQIQlj1GZ_LpqTXLX6DzDfAwNYbKhyphenhyphenlqVNfjby95v9fs1ZxTUQtZHTLV63dPLKyaEPmfVE2zlfLSSTB_NvbNXqZtpguQ2Y9S4gGE9yFJIATNN1vOTMjX3fEzS-Ma4MSTtTx/s320/DSCF0438.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">9km of Medieval Time Travel...<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhme432Tq7dbvoST7wB8Mj_1KnPkXhLakoK1U730NSoKuHfILPVBffPy6WqzKGaEO_sgfXRSPC3tPuWrtt9acvLthJ00sOwuwblD0Ti9xAaJaWAwhEIFaEfPwMh8Qs1kGCK7PuKSxArIXoe/s1600/DSCF0440.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhme432Tq7dbvoST7wB8Mj_1KnPkXhLakoK1U730NSoKuHfILPVBffPy6WqzKGaEO_sgfXRSPC3tPuWrtt9acvLthJ00sOwuwblD0Ti9xAaJaWAwhEIFaEfPwMh8Qs1kGCK7PuKSxArIXoe/s320/DSCF0440.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... and again - Medieval road, the curb stones mark the side<br />
of the Camino</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWYoTaDGcloh5LJd9ALtn1KnlaByX78ow6nwSp4T8-aB6p4OZEmjjaGihhuJ1IHwcaDdEh_EhsRMLTi8qx325rfAa3B2aet6JjTEmTwC43Q0-4iiQ2-mPdJLP5LvAZz-WeFuYSkZh7pBat/s1600/IMG_6759.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWYoTaDGcloh5LJd9ALtn1KnlaByX78ow6nwSp4T8-aB6p4OZEmjjaGihhuJ1IHwcaDdEh_EhsRMLTi8qx325rfAa3B2aet6JjTEmTwC43Q0-4iiQ2-mPdJLP5LvAZz-WeFuYSkZh7pBat/s200/IMG_6759.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqCeUeK86HYEy8NBVBM127kHy1P937uHaZyeroC0OftMgehB_0nsqxpzHuYv7RN1SrEvhYQooaNcp4MZAhoHpgb6nVIbEyfRe_3JYXS67-NCIXveTaAIwSBYwUEHXAcZvekUFpafYyxTjA/s1600/DSCF0442.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqCeUeK86HYEy8NBVBM127kHy1P937uHaZyeroC0OftMgehB_0nsqxpzHuYv7RN1SrEvhYQooaNcp4MZAhoHpgb6nVIbEyfRe_3JYXS67-NCIXveTaAIwSBYwUEHXAcZvekUFpafYyxTjA/s200/DSCF0442.JPG" width="200" /></a> With Dorothea outside Rehoboth... marker stones from Peregrinos walking this way before me and wonderful old buildings lining the route into Villar de Farfón.<br />
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Another one of my favourites - a shadow picture... after all, when walking alone, it's one's shadow that is the main company along the route sharing each and every footstep!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0jPJp8DzXXeUiVdihoJSG04i2_fhcBU80m_IC1OL842sUUOxvQHT3mlTMRpGHekuCWdEJbaxBA2dh8QYYxsK_gQ4o-xIdI9FuRfHDvaSUjnpsI0k7oscofcoyu2dRryBPnV4Sg38E_44i/s1600/IMG_6757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0jPJp8DzXXeUiVdihoJSG04i2_fhcBU80m_IC1OL842sUUOxvQHT3mlTMRpGHekuCWdEJbaxBA2dh8QYYxsK_gQ4o-xIdI9FuRfHDvaSUjnpsI0k7oscofcoyu2dRryBPnV4Sg38E_44i/s320/IMG_6757.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmfTpHhhoeOh4l9AN8-ljLMnjWR5C_pRkOUTgyO2bkh8iTdYoysmXnwjG6brMOcz2DOzIDhOxs7OtEMa2d0FtZ0Xq5zfW3s3P3J_7Q6gzEwuXk2S1gGeSTJC8gzwEUoEbJkywzvyPZdZdf/s1600/IMG_6756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmfTpHhhoeOh4l9AN8-ljLMnjWR5C_pRkOUTgyO2bkh8iTdYoysmXnwjG6brMOcz2DOzIDhOxs7OtEMa2d0FtZ0Xq5zfW3s3P3J_7Q6gzEwuXk2S1gGeSTJC8gzwEUoEbJkywzvyPZdZdf/s200/IMG_6756.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Villar de Farfón.</span></td></tr>
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Although I saw many more Peregrinos on this trip and along the Camino, it's a popular time of year for walking and we are getting every closer to Santiago... I was fortunate to be mostly alone on the Medieval stretch to absorb the energy of the pilgrims of the past. It is always nice to see someone sporting a scallop shell though, and there is a shared purpose that seems to be generated between everyone, even if walking alone.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdmMzI0gAmpOcwk85hpjlaf0ufwskUkh8rhZXee5AkZHQ9_G4QqBqKhvULwJVi23sZx2KCwTWGqUCUze0_wAgPLN3MNtwJNyBz_mBk0uLMav8R1a-I5GUGNpojzogOiMjpULLcXpY0VKES/s1600/IMG_6764.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdmMzI0gAmpOcwk85hpjlaf0ufwskUkh8rhZXee5AkZHQ9_G4QqBqKhvULwJVi23sZx2KCwTWGqUCUze0_wAgPLN3MNtwJNyBz_mBk0uLMav8R1a-I5GUGNpojzogOiMjpULLcXpY0VKES/s320/IMG_6764.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving in Villar de Farfón and sending this photo of<br />
me with the ridgestone to my mother</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_LqZMzhm_AWwGf8oWmiLFJgFV0pPljLvGeUzEQ3uaRjlV4sbLYPaO_6Gh_eHQsp17da86gXIkexJ17jyYiUrkiFYNA6jKSv6L5-LH1VU3jhTFxmvvLVPEYtNiEzOMXR3djiqJYEnnzbuF/s1600/IMG_6763.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_LqZMzhm_AWwGf8oWmiLFJgFV0pPljLvGeUzEQ3uaRjlV4sbLYPaO_6Gh_eHQsp17da86gXIkexJ17jyYiUrkiFYNA6jKSv6L5-LH1VU3jhTFxmvvLVPEYtNiEzOMXR3djiqJYEnnzbuF/s200/IMG_6763.jpg" width="150" /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfIYc-kHiZ5upQw701DXkYbGmaoWgy-HzK568GyEJh4MVCOwwfqbMLbGzKWru6nSd9fY2MgLVXoZIJxv51RrvjnNhHp64Azii_XQ3_T4aD4ttHVCLHXtG46BddXhRv1VvvwJw_OJaga5cZ/s1600/IMG_6765.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfIYc-kHiZ5upQw701DXkYbGmaoWgy-HzK568GyEJh4MVCOwwfqbMLbGzKWru6nSd9fY2MgLVXoZIJxv51RrvjnNhHp64Azii_XQ3_T4aD4ttHVCLHXtG46BddXhRv1VvvwJw_OJaga5cZ/s320/IMG_6765.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ridgestone shaped to fit</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGlDWU8Lth-7IfVYJY4Q9cEOvbqc0T8dvsz5hyphenhyphennC01X4h6ArjQOJ2h2nDhKx9U9PgAGwi7iNyXlxqFl68P3lLWB8h8qvGUyTPeHFWdNsz4SIv9tcij0W6LHTqxclpbivNyYwUZ7NJJD2L9/s1600/IMG_6779.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGlDWU8Lth-7IfVYJY4Q9cEOvbqc0T8dvsz5hyphenhyphennC01X4h6ArjQOJ2h2nDhKx9U9PgAGwi7iNyXlxqFl68P3lLWB8h8qvGUyTPeHFWdNsz4SIv9tcij0W6LHTqxclpbivNyYwUZ7NJJD2L9/s200/IMG_6779.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perfect end to the perfect day -<br />
relaxing with the red girls at their<br />
campsite</td></tr>
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A nice bit of history and the story at Rionegro del Puente - important in the history of the pilgrimage and due to the sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de la Carballeda, also known as "los Falifos", was that confraternities were obliged to leave their most valuable garment to them on their death. The value of these "falifos" built roads, bridges, hospitals and pilgrim albergues, perhaps including my lovely little ridgestone! The total bridges built in this way was 35 and the total hospitals, 30!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib4oaJsjIQyDoAWkIXwYIjgaMcdBENfxtf4iyhH3TwHKTXp2nPXZ774FHbEL249dgUfqT0p7vJFKuiAHC2DkKqEtvVsjzNy6GOoXwI01XwgM98t4ll4LqgD_eDkfUZEYFk6TOnLGPDzEZ0/s1600/IMG_6748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib4oaJsjIQyDoAWkIXwYIjgaMcdBENfxtf4iyhH3TwHKTXp2nPXZ774FHbEL249dgUfqT0p7vJFKuiAHC2DkKqEtvVsjzNy6GOoXwI01XwgM98t4ll4LqgD_eDkfUZEYFk6TOnLGPDzEZ0/s640/IMG_6748.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Second perfect ending to the day!</td></tr>
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Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-38267889355302832642015-08-15T04:26:00.003-07:002015-08-15T04:26:43.359-07:00El Camino (Levante) - Bercianos de Valverde to the river crossing at Camarzana de Tera (17.4km)<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWsKNbHx0EvCQBHxpQZwGy_CH5XiBemr1Ylttuq3rUg62UUqO2g2HtSJHX81aDHRsgxWEdbmJHwHxOMNmG_tgbOkBZ719WBM0VwwPyun3mXInz3NUngxkWLM8bDp5SVuE4qcPgBZddZ_la/s1600/DSCF0381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWsKNbHx0EvCQBHxpQZwGy_CH5XiBemr1Ylttuq3rUg62UUqO2g2HtSJHX81aDHRsgxWEdbmJHwHxOMNmG_tgbOkBZ719WBM0VwwPyun3mXInz3NUngxkWLM8bDp5SVuE4qcPgBZddZ_la/s1600/DSCF0381.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cave house as we head uphill from Bercianos</td></tr>
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<b>Bercianos de Valverde to the river crossing at Camarzana de Tera (17.4km) Sunday 11th May, 2014</b><br />
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And again, another beautiful day for walking the camino. The early morning was fresh and the birdsong filled the air as we headed up from the flock filled flat lands and headed up a steep climb to another woodland. On our left as we headed uphill were a few cave houses, really cute and welcoming "homes" unlike most that we have seen which have been a bit ramshackle and neglected. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNf0KZa7hQxxpEk9xcx8D3bE7cgeNjQLnXm24zB_kJrqRjTvcmJzA62ucsCHaHvenPBKgV6s7Qg156kYy4J6hcQgv90ef48twgU6Q_vCyIh6UJUduvPVeT-Ka8mA17WwwjFBjZC409j-ST/s1600/IMG_6721.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNf0KZa7hQxxpEk9xcx8D3bE7cgeNjQLnXm24zB_kJrqRjTvcmJzA62ucsCHaHvenPBKgV6s7Qg156kYy4J6hcQgv90ef48twgU6Q_vCyIh6UJUduvPVeT-Ka8mA17WwwjFBjZC409j-ST/s1600/IMG_6721.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXo4HFkAHtFY7Mqrq1y1k-0mXY6_FDeQfTxqXZ3ciXAKpD88-t9kXPIs8YBJf2WoTUMZl5R2GDpj4Hit6JMkIUxzU6MpqQECWzCFhGHabCZDqfvPevNyX_TAY28VIAxwsROw1kiUUrtShJ/s1600/DSCF0382.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXo4HFkAHtFY7Mqrq1y1k-0mXY6_FDeQfTxqXZ3ciXAKpD88-t9kXPIs8YBJf2WoTUMZl5R2GDpj4Hit6JMkIUxzU6MpqQECWzCFhGHabCZDqfvPevNyX_TAY28VIAxwsROw1kiUUrtShJ/s1600/DSCF0382.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Akina showing off her discovery</td></tr>
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As Akina and I neared the top, there were tracks in different directions and it was unclear which way to go. There were none of the usual arrows, and then Akina found an enormous peregrino built arrow which some kind soul or souls had spent time and effort constructing so that others would not lose the way. Akina posed next to it to show exactly how large it had been built! It was a very impressive and rather beautiful arrow! Thank you to whoever took such consideration and showed such mindfulness.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip9cKvevHj6-OeJLS_VemjcNGUitaMjVdejzVMTb8qw9idXDOvMf8gMjl8eym60cVqS2dSnoCF58NVcCcoEpq8Sf8bGwd5pBycprIusIozWz-U_U7UcDaLQu9cq9OhrGTecvCSUYY-bLev/s1600/DSCF0384.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip9cKvevHj6-OeJLS_VemjcNGUitaMjVdejzVMTb8qw9idXDOvMf8gMjl8eym60cVqS2dSnoCF58NVcCcoEpq8Sf8bGwd5pBycprIusIozWz-U_U7UcDaLQu9cq9OhrGTecvCSUYY-bLev/s1600/DSCF0384.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wonderful sign with all the contact<br />
information for the pilgrim</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The track was easy going and easy to follow, marked well with no surprises. When we reached the top it was flat and very pretty with trees all around us. Ahead on one section just before we met with the vehicle for a dog swap there was a group of signs and a little shelter put up by Casa Anita, the Albergue in the next village (Santa Croya de Tera). It was superb and such a welcome shady rest stop for those arriving in the heat, or a shelter from the rain for those who might come across it during inclement weather.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJp_oMcJgIJERcDQSw-18MrzexoZROk4FW4Oks667WRuK3LuXDB0ombBTFszb0G1hyoRaXZPhIt_pHuCsaw1jjo2xVNQx29K_B4SbAYJnJ-D_iuRH2IgxeNjms5i4OYdJ968iRi_2XtdTa/s1600/DSCF0383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJp_oMcJgIJERcDQSw-18MrzexoZROk4FW4Oks667WRuK3LuXDB0ombBTFszb0G1hyoRaXZPhIt_pHuCsaw1jjo2xVNQx29K_B4SbAYJnJ-D_iuRH2IgxeNjms5i4OYdJ968iRi_2XtdTa/s1600/DSCF0383.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Akina by the little shelter and the camino marker</td></tr>
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Actually Anita of Casa Anita (a private Albergue) is pretty switched on as she had written her name just on a stone at the multi-sign crossroads where I changed into shorts and took photos yesterday. I didn't know what it meant then, but it stayed in my head - kind of "subliminal advertising" then? Well, it worked! I wish I had known about it before as it would have been a great place for an overnight.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2jFFqgto6gTKCKBDs276l36ls1GZ9L5H9rn89yktrrodDyf1JG1CzqqYgmJWT0XRmq4FY9XXRvUMkmgleiEsbIXD65TVzbKRGjqqtLgBk2gXGNt6ZD0Aqa5Q9hKxoBZY2ZZ7l5fnNZ8r4/s1600/DSCF0388.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2jFFqgto6gTKCKBDs276l36ls1GZ9L5H9rn89yktrrodDyf1JG1CzqqYgmJWT0XRmq4FY9XXRvUMkmgleiEsbIXD65TVzbKRGjqqtLgBk2gXGNt6ZD0Aqa5Q9hKxoBZY2ZZ7l5fnNZ8r4/s1600/DSCF0388.JPG" width="320" /></a>As we headed on through the woodland and made a dog swap, I took Yume on with me. As I walked I could hear a strange and rhythmic noise echoing through the trees. It seemed to stop when I did, yet it also sounded like the rhythm of running. I have to say it was a bit freaky for a while, but it must have just been the acoustics of the forest, because before long a lady came past jogging with her two dogs! Yume of course wanted to join in and had one of her squeaky, lacking impulse control moments but she settled and was very good at staying with me. We were wished Buen Camino and I think she suggested that she would be coming back - which she did some time later, jogging her way back towards and past us. Yume was even better this time, but still wanted to join in. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEaLY4Rbc_ElXGIpbtHr89xvG2vCyynwyviQ_FGgEW_s8nLBqQtMxpZZcFngzSLtnPnlJ_ruSZiDcg8-YJaNE1I_tH5AWxB2J8UXxZWZSyaZLK1xOyTDd5hVc3CEw-Vh1CtFYD2VB5LVrM/s1600/IMG_6724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEaLY4Rbc_ElXGIpbtHr89xvG2vCyynwyviQ_FGgEW_s8nLBqQtMxpZZcFngzSLtnPnlJ_ruSZiDcg8-YJaNE1I_tH5AWxB2J8UXxZWZSyaZLK1xOyTDd5hVc3CEw-Vh1CtFYD2VB5LVrM/s1600/IMG_6724.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The trail through the woodland</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdXm7MHoZzhkw7cb3PLN_SC18tC6fjILkKUV5mdC0wCyhSKuspwgyfm1EUeXkF16KH3PG3PbZu3UddyMIRZst4rZMkT27ht_enuoCEboJNN8afp1-b3LSBptgxyVJRt1br-hOhw5SrsLcD/s1600/IMG_6722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdXm7MHoZzhkw7cb3PLN_SC18tC6fjILkKUV5mdC0wCyhSKuspwgyfm1EUeXkF16KH3PG3PbZu3UddyMIRZst4rZMkT27ht_enuoCEboJNN8afp1-b3LSBptgxyVJRt1br-hOhw5SrsLcD/s1600/IMG_6722.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The little rest hut built for peregrinos</td></tr>
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I started to head down a hill to Santa Croya de Tera and again the business savvy Anita had been at it with the signs. It was at this point I met the same two guys that I had met near Tábara. This time they were wearing berets of all things (!) They really were French. Now all they needed were stripy jerseys and some onions to complete the picture! Again they were walking against the flow of the traffic... I was curious and a little confused, so much so that I thought I must be imagining things and they were just two guys that looked similar to the last two. They laughed and joked and waved and stopped me and asked if they were going the right way... I laughed and thought they must be pulling my leg from the other day and copying my question, except that of course they were going the other way and so it was even funnier. I wasn't sure if they were serious though, and of course it is so much harder doing the camino in reverse because often arrows and signs are on the other side of posts and stones and so can only be seen from the direction in which one is meant to see them... Anyway, I pointed them up the hill and said that the markers were easy to find ahead. Amused, bemused and confused I continued!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLEvxgGIgPPxJC1cmcKAdPKdw7BeIZzUmKdfQK4wdf0H_QpkFfYRQDlk0JVoPJTsQLx-8FeL_Xco_igUqLEtPM7QM4k7pp_0QZ2t-byqGSIJEHHzPCkeLDHrorILJkjjlh_f3vNg4A-AXJ/s1600/DSCF0392.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLEvxgGIgPPxJC1cmcKAdPKdw7BeIZzUmKdfQK4wdf0H_QpkFfYRQDlk0JVoPJTsQLx-8FeL_Xco_igUqLEtPM7QM4k7pp_0QZ2t-byqGSIJEHHzPCkeLDHrorILJkjjlh_f3vNg4A-AXJ/s1600/DSCF0392.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi04g7cvujIU-kscPZjGqpToFz9BNXTdZcP78XEMza9nwJOsXI7FRnEn-ta7rZmPbRvHWQjqMHJ5W_OKGcIAXaPdNmMqFKdGTDaKj7i14aE7JnspiySLr3sUHUVp_nXzVqrpvqkh-aCuyvL/s1600/DSCF0389.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi04g7cvujIU-kscPZjGqpToFz9BNXTdZcP78XEMza9nwJOsXI7FRnEn-ta7rZmPbRvHWQjqMHJ5W_OKGcIAXaPdNmMqFKdGTDaKj7i14aE7JnspiySLr3sUHUVp_nXzVqrpvqkh-aCuyvL/s1600/DSCF0389.JPG" width="200" /></a>On entering the town we saw yet another of these stuffed "people" hanging up on a post... it's obviously something they do here and maybe something to do with football??? I have no idea, I was trying to read the scarf! <br />
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Yume was not able to shed any light on the situation either, but did offer to pose next to one of the inspirational markers that are dotted regularly along this part of the route. As I write this, over three months since walking, she looks so small and puppy-like! I can't believe how much she has changed since these photos were taken, although she hasn't lost much of her puppy nature. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWrc6ON8It57t3lS02NRxpELup9I6WAHC-dVnLrn9_qlRXxf_N2RHkEs5ACkpY9zBlBhcXrt9WRxPB_umLpXJM5WCIi7A_dCrJi7Vt6BDok1Jq00unCBDLG30bAHsnAKH5qZ63ThH9jAVn/s1600/DSCF0393.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWrc6ON8It57t3lS02NRxpELup9I6WAHC-dVnLrn9_qlRXxf_N2RHkEs5ACkpY9zBlBhcXrt9WRxPB_umLpXJM5WCIi7A_dCrJi7Vt6BDok1Jq00unCBDLG30bAHsnAKH5qZ63ThH9jAVn/s1600/DSCF0393.JPG" width="320" /></a>Casa Anita continued to advertise itself and when we found the hostel itself it was lovely and I wished that I had found out about it sooner to book a night there myself. I would thoroughly recommend others to try it! It also looks very welcoming and is definitely an upmarket hostel from the municipal one which is no longer open - hence why I could not get a response when trying to book! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKl3KOCVUEpoUMQvZodpqkpFYxQTKcMzbZp7BoNpUAa4awvPVUrgYQz8kqVReT3Yn13p0LQgv4cfua93fKqvpc9XoviWxl3qp0ZMWwzcknGMt__qU0qw_dZUaT4BK6_i2uu3NtZz3jJq91/s1600/DSCF0395.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKl3KOCVUEpoUMQvZodpqkpFYxQTKcMzbZp7BoNpUAa4awvPVUrgYQz8kqVReT3Yn13p0LQgv4cfua93fKqvpc9XoviWxl3qp0ZMWwzcknGMt__qU0qw_dZUaT4BK6_i2uu3NtZz3jJq91/s1600/DSCF0395.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Casa Anita</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWf4R9XAyoC-tZ44PI14kwsko456BWdb-sT5sPuTfJAV3lBgV6LM8XcBRBjS7zxPRk0OGIau5eA80iNK3e-o82Hpyo7g93Qfi9V36Q8jv9YY0Tro2XAYbIngGTC9WZ-XcH5ByAc3riy-mo/s1600/DSCF0396.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWf4R9XAyoC-tZ44PI14kwsko456BWdb-sT5sPuTfJAV3lBgV6LM8XcBRBjS7zxPRk0OGIau5eA80iNK3e-o82Hpyo7g93Qfi9V36Q8jv9YY0Tro2XAYbIngGTC9WZ-XcH5ByAc3riy-mo/s1600/DSCF0396.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old hostel</td></tr>
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From here, after meeting with Michael for a quick break, I continued with Akina and the route flattened out and followed the river. It was delightful and calm with many allotments along the way and some great Camino signs to guide us. It feels more and more like "El Camino" as we go further along the way, and I love it although I also loved the remoteness of the earlier route. It's just different and a different experience, but no less valuable or enjoyable. The flock from the trees snowed on us and covered the ground in white. It gave a muffled kind of peacefulness a bit like when it really does snow, yet the spring birds and the cuckoo called around us. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRUWwcgrz2n0w5-4m_blI33_dFRdS48hpRsFmwhExOuo9N58B-aa_wEBSeuiPiD03oPqsLfYFToaB_yPDmQIcfqf6fwvOYwI2bkxhTRvwXjUnZyqxYCQfrEnqFNTUDz7GqtjldJOPJQAO0/s1600/DSCF0397.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRUWwcgrz2n0w5-4m_blI33_dFRdS48hpRsFmwhExOuo9N58B-aa_wEBSeuiPiD03oPqsLfYFToaB_yPDmQIcfqf6fwvOYwI2bkxhTRvwXjUnZyqxYCQfrEnqFNTUDz7GqtjldJOPJQAO0/s1600/DSCF0397.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxE6pjVrkmlZssxvpFKWpk9pCP6cpt4gyrrRbRPAaFpJyB5cMSLmIqOQeFoD_Zmzv8_jn0Lc2DkT6ZpIP_XopRfIhYbxfjO97vB8D3DxqJqoXLjIqwdmGodTvULtbIz0RxEQ3As6_yZMmC/s1600/DSCF0398.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxE6pjVrkmlZssxvpFKWpk9pCP6cpt4gyrrRbRPAaFpJyB5cMSLmIqOQeFoD_Zmzv8_jn0Lc2DkT6ZpIP_XopRfIhYbxfjO97vB8D3DxqJqoXLjIqwdmGodTvULtbIz0RxEQ3As6_yZMmC/s1600/DSCF0398.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
It was an easy going walk, and I think I went at quite an amble. It was also one of the days as I neared the end where I felt very tired and the last few km's seemed to be longer than usual! However, the night's rest would be at a cabin where I had booked a week, as part of Michael's birthday present and we would go back to a similar way of walking to how we started in Valencia - driving out to do a day's walk each day and stopping at a central point. It would be a nice way to have a bit of a holiday while at the same time still being able to enjoy my camino walking. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMfrG1VG1BzINIyLZDCpaFS-9LTUMIE6flIISJDsahgRWCgc68SYeUXbaTrsou8eHdvE3UEDZYn_LxCBnUGQxUp5rqF4rTzyMdtuzDEYx2cPzd7qoW3zeGrrhmkIm5c_XvXutuRN2HMl4q/s1600/IMG_6726.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMfrG1VG1BzINIyLZDCpaFS-9LTUMIE6flIISJDsahgRWCgc68SYeUXbaTrsou8eHdvE3UEDZYn_LxCBnUGQxUp5rqF4rTzyMdtuzDEYx2cPzd7qoW3zeGrrhmkIm5c_XvXutuRN2HMl4q/s200/IMG_6726.JPG" width="200" /></a>The cabin was pet friendly and it was great to stay with all the dogs. It had a lovely little veranda to sit on and enjoy the evenings and have supper while unwinding from the day's walk. It was very quiet as it wasn't yet "in the season" for holiday makers and often we felt like we had the place to ourselves. The staff were friendly and there was a nice field in which to give the dogs their evening run, just a short walk from the cabin. The cabins were at "Cabañas Maleixas" in Sanabria, a stunning area and with great walking close to the mountains. Only 270 Euros for two people for a week (including the IVA). <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqeZtr-Tg0H2tLBZI_l3zc3lyYo8VLGzZDObg-nS6POIeS2-QSyGi3DNIy0KcwMgI39pOqTazafUgJMoBi3DAj9S0cvWytWsKelDz6vTCxETALzynBOn7WqSa24CZH9Lt9amePrixH5Jgj/s1600/IMG_6729.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqeZtr-Tg0H2tLBZI_l3zc3lyYo8VLGzZDObg-nS6POIeS2-QSyGi3DNIy0KcwMgI39pOqTazafUgJMoBi3DAj9S0cvWytWsKelDz6vTCxETALzynBOn7WqSa24CZH9Lt9amePrixH5Jgj/s320/IMG_6729.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggtiY_ur7MYhBS9Pve2-jDKn_vEd0WZEDF8Pv6uj9lVBeJrds93l0ZkIdixb9KIgOm6bcCK4_G45BvRNarcLo5SoYzSHjhqLmVLIn4zEShycdcYdWo9c_Vd2GvqcpDBSeD7zLBgAYtHjnQ/s1600/IMG_6727.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggtiY_ur7MYhBS9Pve2-jDKn_vEd0WZEDF8Pv6uj9lVBeJrds93l0ZkIdixb9KIgOm6bcCK4_G45BvRNarcLo5SoYzSHjhqLmVLIn4zEShycdcYdWo9c_Vd2GvqcpDBSeD7zLBgAYtHjnQ/s200/IMG_6727.JPG" width="200" /></a>At the end of the day's walk, there had been great peace among the trees the lovely camino signs and a cute little cross attached to a tree with a marker below.<br />
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The allotments along the route are tended beautifully and with great care. I rested<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPEQZ211HJiKXSEHF42XXIg2J2AJcW6qbOA2_CiL49HyhrsMiWNsc5wDt1Rj8LU-bjo2rc4PAPxI174_0_ckuo3xcfTk5xfyG2imb2AAjscwx4Qq0OPUwfl3pCnGmwXFCq1xEMqg8WJXbI/s1600/IMG_6731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPEQZ211HJiKXSEHF42XXIg2J2AJcW6qbOA2_CiL49HyhrsMiWNsc5wDt1Rj8LU-bjo2rc4PAPxI174_0_ckuo3xcfTk5xfyG2imb2AAjscwx4Qq0OPUwfl3pCnGmwXFCq1xEMqg8WJXbI/s320/IMG_6731.jpg" width="320" /></a>frequently on this last part, as I said, just one of those days where I felt particularly tired and Akina wasn't complaining at a quick snooze either while I had a reviving snack on left over lunch. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQmYaA_6V3HWR_R4y_Cb6RP-ecnlS4tBzU9QFvbRVFWcl8NUemA1tgcP0Bjq6XriUQ9eAhAtVvAFrHJ06dTU261-IZzEqgxwUzuuUHXa67YY8AnW9Ce-uIXu9Kxxdt7eG1bpGlPF_0WC0t/s1600/IMG_6734.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQmYaA_6V3HWR_R4y_Cb6RP-ecnlS4tBzU9QFvbRVFWcl8NUemA1tgcP0Bjq6XriUQ9eAhAtVvAFrHJ06dTU261-IZzEqgxwUzuuUHXa67YY8AnW9Ce-uIXu9Kxxdt7eG1bpGlPF_0WC0t/s200/IMG_6734.JPG" width="200" /></a>Finally, when we met the back up vehicle, there was an amazing camp site at the end of the day's route, where a couple of families had set up camp and strung a tented roof through the trees over their cars and camping area. It was quite amazing and looked like a great idea. However, we were all set for our week at our cabin and a nice cold beer to celebrate in birthday style!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhykBIWnLaoeivRxs8qhnZW7yEi_h1P_g2tmjkX_SrwJsaAQhVHa3NZJ7yLN_yVk2ftmAyG1gB5KIdNpky2R4NMNaKn3DkSMPtQYnnrPoYxL4QX5ueFImrRc1Evdo2Yh3I4KgbID5ZHuPBl/s1600/IMG_6739.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhykBIWnLaoeivRxs8qhnZW7yEi_h1P_g2tmjkX_SrwJsaAQhVHa3NZJ7yLN_yVk2ftmAyG1gB5KIdNpky2R4NMNaKn3DkSMPtQYnnrPoYxL4QX5ueFImrRc1Evdo2Yh3I4KgbID5ZHuPBl/s640/IMG_6739.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Birthday Celebration - cold beer at our cabin for the week</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-52027572934292055252014-08-18T08:48:00.000-07:002014-08-18T08:57:48.081-07:00El Camino (Levante) - Faramontanos de Tábara to a point near Bercianos de Valverde (20km)<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4gK_1OhP5tVCTsEQNhvSW9bAd9iflGJpW2AJyue8oOzFNML1Z59LLXVp7cTwtNafewWISWpYJpwxkI5NBAp1ALHZ28NH-suRtoTlDGUrcYf364tZD-eWwxEQUDrBqZHypQcZ8PSwBn1KZ/s1600/DSCF0363.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4gK_1OhP5tVCTsEQNhvSW9bAd9iflGJpW2AJyue8oOzFNML1Z59LLXVp7cTwtNafewWISWpYJpwxkI5NBAp1ALHZ28NH-suRtoTlDGUrcYf364tZD-eWwxEQUDrBqZHypQcZ8PSwBn1KZ/s1600/DSCF0363.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the early morning these trees looked<br />
mysterious and beautiful, but the camera<br />
has washed out the early morning light a bit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Faramontanos de Tábara to Bercianos de Valverde (20km) Saturday 10th May, 2014</b><br />
<br />
Another superb and beautiful walk even if a little confusing with the new rail road construction, but not as bad as we have had! There are pros and cons to walking in May. The plus sides are the stunning spring flowers and amazing bird song that fills the air around us. There are many more peregrinos so it really feels like the Camino and it can be sociable, and this in turn also means there is more accommodation available and food is easy to come by. The daylight hours are longer, so for those who don't mind traveling in the evening or starting early, quite a number of km can be covered. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ZXhd-igGpBMt1EUYK9wpHnEncHUUvIv0qd22lhraNdFJY7U7j903gFiboaVbqbT8jjUWXvAKWTMmfzP4FQAuIgYEYMIKSVhoNYQaDXKFiZfiY9p6sWlG9IS1llIhS71XlY1D1McN8le1/s1600/DSCF0364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ZXhd-igGpBMt1EUYK9wpHnEncHUUvIv0qd22lhraNdFJY7U7j903gFiboaVbqbT8jjUWXvAKWTMmfzP4FQAuIgYEYMIKSVhoNYQaDXKFiZfiY9p6sWlG9IS1llIhS71XlY1D1McN8le1/s1600/DSCF0364.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The trees have so much flock falling from<br />
them it looks like frost or snow as we walk.<br />
Later on the route I could wade through it<br />
in some places, just like snow.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For me I prefer to start early around 6 or 6.30am so that I get the coolest walk, finishing anywhere between midday and 14.00. Leaving later, as I was surprised to see many pilgrims do, you can be walking into 27-29C at 15.00 - although this is not hot compared to June or July. In fact some of the routes, like the early parts of the Levante and up onto La Mancha, or from Seville on the Via de la Plata are not recommended for July walking. On our return we headed south to Seville and crossed the Via de la Plata a few times, sometimes seeing pilgrims walking in big open spaces with the sun beating down - even now in May. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0Nga49WQM9nEfGSkwq6oX5SyreCryJQJo86y4lWj-Mn-y8uJm91GQG7KVJBJYXEBWFPpH5SoaKwaVOJ-o1xcwqpBgCgzOgpbgtQ1C52I8Ixpwzl9A5sw572hAk97g0bUJmiBrOcENwCw/s1600/DSCF0365.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb0Nga49WQM9nEfGSkwq6oX5SyreCryJQJo86y4lWj-Mn-y8uJm91GQG7KVJBJYXEBWFPpH5SoaKwaVOJ-o1xcwqpBgCgzOgpbgtQ1C52I8Ixpwzl9A5sw572hAk97g0bUJmiBrOcENwCw/s1600/DSCF0365.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An actual apology for the inconvenience!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The down sides are how hot it is even now and the heat is of a different quality. I much prefer walking in October and November if possible, and prefer to carry the extra layers and warmer gear. For me, it is much more comfortable. The fact that there are more pilgrims can actually be more of a downside if you are someone who prefers a more solitary walk, although at this point on the camino, despite different routes coming together it is nowhere near as busy as the Frances!<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIqrEKKc8qAOVG1p04YQV5n8Yaq9nj23JGxCMmRJYnNnjRrmoXLC2pW9InSZd4WdxrnUaU5quQyAe4rUTMcA2P0tMUo8M4c6CwWW-jBTcbPUqe7vSXgxj41agWTi4xFM-VKy0Z0LqNbuS3/s1600/DSCF0366.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIqrEKKc8qAOVG1p04YQV5n8Yaq9nj23JGxCMmRJYnNnjRrmoXLC2pW9InSZd4WdxrnUaU5quQyAe4rUTMcA2P0tMUo8M4c6CwWW-jBTcbPUqe7vSXgxj41agWTi4xFM-VKy0Z0LqNbuS3/s1600/DSCF0366.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back towards Tábara from the new diversion<br />
on the Camino. The way is open and flat from here<br />
for some distance, but pretty and lovely in the cool<br />
of the morning air. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As I headed out on this morning we met deer, standing beautiful and proud in a clearing. When it saw us it bounded off and I was impressed that Akina did not follow. It was the first of many early morning deer I met on this Camino. The rail way tracks again interrupted our path and there was yet another diversion. However, for the first time ever we had an apology for the inconvenience! Both before and after the bridge that took us across. However, the way is still possible over the newly built surface - yet this time I had taken the bridge and added on a number of metres more to my journey!<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiHsfauthI3utjA7KI4O8c6G8US4NAgRYgCNRAXQWAKyn4uVLMD7U_dgAeEMLqwAIzyCjTv9bJIjhNHlYGmSVVgXiq6EUK2LzLJ6U-bUExDz4FDYYqut_BiCYUDuNNXqIubW_ClfGJNZjG/s1600/DSCF0368.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiHsfauthI3utjA7KI4O8c6G8US4NAgRYgCNRAXQWAKyn4uVLMD7U_dgAeEMLqwAIzyCjTv9bJIjhNHlYGmSVVgXiq6EUK2LzLJ6U-bUExDz4FDYYqut_BiCYUDuNNXqIubW_ClfGJNZjG/s1600/DSCF0368.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yume accompanied me from<br />
Tábara to our next meeting point</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As I approached Tábara, I met two gentleman walking in the opposite direction. Having just passed an arrow with an "A" I wondered if I had perhaps taken the wrong route, especially as the way was undefined. They assured me that I was heading the right way and were cheerful. They were French but we conversed in Spanish - rather amusingly. They were friendly and I wondered if they had been into the town early to purchase provisions. The track did seem a tad out of the way, but maybe the "A" stood for Albergue and they were staying there, but did not want to walk along the main road. I was puzzled but let it go. I was to meet them again a few times - posing a mystery that was to be solved some days later - they were always walking in the opposite direction! <br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVG1O2hXFraaOe80wgmzp-QUl-HBtst4xRxR9jrdpRrAl1XFWmvSvQqBxXpdoFtL8e1Qxf6oUc1Fubek783Dw-XeV09kySzxvM5GnuMV_nwh6_O7GAW_4h4lZFZ5-A4Fuvn1Xp9WgQCz20/s1600/IMG_6706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVG1O2hXFraaOe80wgmzp-QUl-HBtst4xRxR9jrdpRrAl1XFWmvSvQqBxXpdoFtL8e1Qxf6oUc1Fubek783Dw-XeV09kySzxvM5GnuMV_nwh6_O7GAW_4h4lZFZ5-A4Fuvn1Xp9WgQCz20/s1600/IMG_6706.JPG" height="180" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dogs chill out while waiting for me to join them for<br />
my doughnuts and coffee</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I met the vehicle and swapped dogs, this time taking Yume with me for a shorter stretch - although as usual it ended up not as short as I had hoped for her, but being a high energy dog she always seemed to cope. I was just a bit concerned with her being so young still. We again crossed the railway and again there was a diversion which we had to guess at a bit, until we finally found the arrows which directed us on our way! Thankfully Michael and the GPS confirmed that we were going in the right direction, and this always served as a bit of a confidence boost to know that at least we were not far out even if we strayed. Gradually the pilgrim starts to climb. It is a long and at first gentle incline, but as it goes on for some time, it is strangely tiring! It was also getting warm, so our meeting point at the summit was welcome. What a wonderful break too - a delicious coffee and a wonderful fresh doughnut! I sat in the car while the dogs played and told Michael about an amazing and bright green lizard that I had seen. Sadly too quick for me to photograph. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmB5XjciwgbffidrcltIji2DSRXwIFmxo2CqRI_IEBSzWr75AZxPnLAEY5QXuUW4iAeFDdvANaSlzQHpGRFiIa-rXn0M0nC-2z4KpY9ie_fUETmxHharkZ1WNkpJ4zqcQAoupGD3jqUZuG/s1600/DSCF0369.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmB5XjciwgbffidrcltIji2DSRXwIFmxo2CqRI_IEBSzWr75AZxPnLAEY5QXuUW4iAeFDdvANaSlzQHpGRFiIa-rXn0M0nC-2z4KpY9ie_fUETmxHharkZ1WNkpJ4zqcQAoupGD3jqUZuG/s1600/DSCF0369.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Better not collect those mushrooms<br />
without authorisation!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLVTfJ2hP4BQP-yOboFgQnTU6pvf1NCpwz2VI4z227Flm0vvswU4sorqm32aIdow-70t4b7YrKj3CNDtovfVIiyeQYBt-bStcBidpLUEGI06nYlZiEAQFEs0i6wgaff9JrSByb8t50PuPr/s1600/DSCF0371.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLVTfJ2hP4BQP-yOboFgQnTU6pvf1NCpwz2VI4z227Flm0vvswU4sorqm32aIdow-70t4b7YrKj3CNDtovfVIiyeQYBt-bStcBidpLUEGI06nYlZiEAQFEs0i6wgaff9JrSByb8t50PuPr/s1600/DSCF0371.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The field on the left is the mushroom field! Beautiful<br />
walking - very tranquil</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From here the track heads down and then along a flat kind of valley for some distance and the way is just beautiful, lush and green and welcoming. It feels remote and lost in time. The guide says that there can be flooding and puddles to negotiate, although there was very little water on the route and Akina did not manage to find as much to drink as usual as what there was looked rather nasty and I did not want her drinking that. One can tell that it is wet and perfect conditions for mushroom growing as the area is set aside for farming them. We found other places similar to this in this region, mainly for Boletus which is the base for a number of the regional dishes here.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZq_fpx2kar_ns7i9BwriGcbIb0wHML7iKa5asaAvAcDbasrn67EUZ8aohAufAaTHXgxAKY8FRkaB15K5bXkWUiMA_nNP8rU8DE6dKUgI8-Wgtu_GmsypSOJYpt-w-eEyHwpRpO9r3-LEr/s1600/IMG_6699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZq_fpx2kar_ns7i9BwriGcbIb0wHML7iKa5asaAvAcDbasrn67EUZ8aohAufAaTHXgxAKY8FRkaB15K5bXkWUiMA_nNP8rU8DE6dKUgI8-Wgtu_GmsypSOJYpt-w-eEyHwpRpO9r3-LEr/s1600/IMG_6699.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Akina on the track leading to the restaurant sign!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Part way along the track after we left the car was a rather curious sign, it looked like it was a restaurant sign and when I got closer I discovered that it was! In fact, it was for a place on the Camino that is the Sanabres. I would actually turn right instead of continuing straight on along this camino as the Levante rather combines with and follows the Via de la Plata route. However, the sign was tempting!<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNz0be7ngPaScaUUxf38duL5S8rMACCOMDBJyepzCpdQwTP_mlZa_HUKEOSXBrwQ4jVQP8JUQ_LpbICN-n-v9SPyRAxIjoYI2dCTpetr5Nn0zImF9OYXIgCel_n0iHNRMKv6pyepHLRI-/s1600/DSCF0370.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNz0be7ngPaScaUUxf38duL5S8rMACCOMDBJyepzCpdQwTP_mlZa_HUKEOSXBrwQ4jVQP8JUQ_LpbICN-n-v9SPyRAxIjoYI2dCTpetr5Nn0zImF9OYXIgCel_n0iHNRMKv6pyepHLRI-/s1600/DSCF0370.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Restaurant and rest stop sign<br />
also offering to stamp credentials</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This section of the route really brought it home how busy it can be once pilgrims really get into the walking season. Signs abound as do restaurants and signs for accommodation. Sometimes local accommodation owners get quite inventive with their signs and others (as I was to discover later) even built rather elaborate and welcoming rest stops for peregrinos long before they would even reach the owner's bed and board.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbjldlx_ee2pb9ph8x8M8yw6qZoHhWvouIxcKJABuJJl-QpesL0IxZyMiqBhfCrRYDLsiHvk5Wgj0OfyyGyxROdlXcpE9YwrwYzXvAmISkVCYVJ7HiiiHVZnwtuWl8peBs9CA69LJO470M/s1600/DSCF0373.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbjldlx_ee2pb9ph8x8M8yw6qZoHhWvouIxcKJABuJJl-QpesL0IxZyMiqBhfCrRYDLsiHvk5Wgj0OfyyGyxROdlXcpE9YwrwYzXvAmISkVCYVJ7HiiiHVZnwtuWl8peBs9CA69LJO470M/s1600/DSCF0373.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a>The day was heating up and in fact, it became so warm that as I approached a plethora of signs, I stopped to change into my shorts!! The first time I had walked in shorts since the early days of the Camino back in Valencia. I was now drinking from my Camelbak regularly and was getting a bit concerned about the lack of water for Akina. The stretch seemed much longer than I had anticipated and despite the time of year the streams were already just muddy ditches in most places. Akina is much more able to cope with heat than Kaishi though and is very much a "Ridgeback" that can cope better than most dogs in hotter weather. She did not seem at all bothered and was hardly panting.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwAu2scvgq_DnejjxROB5L56WAjCQ-k-0rMpzyK0XTFE2kfFhGE59kgD6ACWlKHAXtySbeFD0LgLkWoFmuT69VHdsAW66WHRtAr4Rh1JRS5JAGxlqnqTbVpiQogO57TdXTuP0y_gr54RCy/s1600/IMG_6707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwAu2scvgq_DnejjxROB5L56WAjCQ-k-0rMpzyK0XTFE2kfFhGE59kgD6ACWlKHAXtySbeFD0LgLkWoFmuT69VHdsAW66WHRtAr4Rh1JRS5JAGxlqnqTbVpiQogO57TdXTuP0y_gr54RCy/s1600/IMG_6707.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes! Legs! Finally carrying the shorts in my<br />
backpack paid off and I got the chance<br />
to wear them! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLLQg2R320PDziuFpqC-fU2l89qf_I9zDktuK04wcK43MC3eEBBheX2pKQc31C43ALSbggDE76K-NCUwW_Wj6DOxLAzmRsjgh9_VztTHQaLYK435_xPEnjVzkfWR8c8h9qT2Au1LH_cCds/s1600/DSCF0377.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLLQg2R320PDziuFpqC-fU2l89qf_I9zDktuK04wcK43MC3eEBBheX2pKQc31C43ALSbggDE76K-NCUwW_Wj6DOxLAzmRsjgh9_VztTHQaLYK435_xPEnjVzkfWR8c8h9qT2Au1LH_cCds/s1600/DSCF0377.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crossroads of signs. I turn right here and the Sanabres<br />
goes straight on</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9lOVKLJSFetbMsHPxeTztqgOWMOSOSdlI_sesmbNf1FWO0FkAWPf1IG8JOzLzCVnhlfpPWZReG3L0KuTU8TTEqNW-rPEKxOBE3QyRudFXQc80MAARuYP1NmBnX1NGCk6pIiSEyCsIVQ7z/s1600/DSCF0378.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9lOVKLJSFetbMsHPxeTztqgOWMOSOSdlI_sesmbNf1FWO0FkAWPf1IG8JOzLzCVnhlfpPWZReG3L0KuTU8TTEqNW-rPEKxOBE3QyRudFXQc80MAARuYP1NmBnX1NGCk6pIiSEyCsIVQ7z/s1600/DSCF0378.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sanabres Mozarabe direction markers and sign for restaurant with<br />
accommodation - complete with pamphlet holders!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOo7PiQDp_BaEg19Z1zzcCYKtWZT8coueyGagCJfjLLmwhVmGOzklvtNuxm7FuMNhiFimyRWAJwvGUXsrzdnSIlH2R5dw3Bmx1tCFPGJw_wqq4VHwbepvekcp-DR-blCOVGU89Fjx9iFFv/s1600/IMG_6702.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOo7PiQDp_BaEg19Z1zzcCYKtWZT8coueyGagCJfjLLmwhVmGOzklvtNuxm7FuMNhiFimyRWAJwvGUXsrzdnSIlH2R5dw3Bmx1tCFPGJw_wqq4VHwbepvekcp-DR-blCOVGU89Fjx9iFFv/s1600/IMG_6702.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Akina on a bridge - each little pillar<br />
has stones placed by peregrinos<br />
on top </td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaV0MKENahKVDuGxfiEYsq8FLUQVO0-mng0sEV7ITl5RWCqYKf-lWA2gD0dO5G4jVwALPvFr2Vnv-BKzFPEQXgwrxclWab31SXAly1BG5NEZ5j-B_ig5Zc01FjMVOtz0gepAgWpKYUUD4y/s1600/DSCF0379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaV0MKENahKVDuGxfiEYsq8FLUQVO0-mng0sEV7ITl5RWCqYKf-lWA2gD0dO5G4jVwALPvFr2Vnv-BKzFPEQXgwrxclWab31SXAly1BG5NEZ5j-B_ig5Zc01FjMVOtz0gepAgWpKYUUD4y/s1600/DSCF0379.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq6lZxf45xpLrYQpL81PIWVswFZqfOCdv_d5U7KlGFjkyScdb1dLSR446IqIVLlzyEjGJeywGxQii-JPkAVpbYnilnKv7gq2UduKSAkzFVU_FlEqUaVCXZ_AalfstoQVRyWheq3kQgifX7/s1600/IMG_6705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq6lZxf45xpLrYQpL81PIWVswFZqfOCdv_d5U7KlGFjkyScdb1dLSR446IqIVLlzyEjGJeywGxQii-JPkAVpbYnilnKv7gq2UduKSAkzFVU_FlEqUaVCXZ_AalfstoQVRyWheq3kQgifX7/s1600/IMG_6705.jpg" height="320" width="305" /></a> The view as we headed down the hill on our final stretch of the day's walk was lovely. In the distance, I could see the hills we were due to climb in a few days - and this reminded me of how I had seen the hills ahead the last time we had made a trip on the Camino back in the autumn when I headed over hills behind Cebreros. These are not so high, but imposing all the same.<br />
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The day started to get tiring. Although not far to go the heat (and for some reason "day 4") always give me a low energy point. I could see the car marked on the GPS and knew lunch awaited me, but it just didn't ever seem to get any closer! One step at a time! One foot in front of the other - that's all you can do. And so we made it.<br />
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Michael and the other dogs had walked out to meet us and it was lovely to be reunited. It lifted the spirits and the energy levels and we got to the car which then took us to a quiet and cool picnic spot under some trees, shedding their snowflake flock. However, just as we were about to make our own cheese and tomato bocadillos, up popped an old gentleman who decided he would chat to us... and chat to us... and chat to us! Plenty of Spanish practice today I thought (and more later on when we reached the bar in town where I stayed)... but my brain needed food. It's impossible not to chat though when someone is so enthusiastic and friendly and wants to share their time and companionship along with their love of their home land. It's what makes the Camino and the people of Spain a delight.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyQ0dePQBkHmoIuT4LWDxLy899wdIsjvPz7mMeYkHdKm4c2jhtt28DzrefdaxqjR76Rq-Dm1DtCVc9nGnZKCcEkAaJck4FMPS0lEYYGOBhRroJYJT9zRgb4LXvmZ5EcqBph4S22CODDmTG/s1600/IMG_6713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyQ0dePQBkHmoIuT4LWDxLy899wdIsjvPz7mMeYkHdKm4c2jhtt28DzrefdaxqjR76Rq-Dm1DtCVc9nGnZKCcEkAaJck4FMPS0lEYYGOBhRroJYJT9zRgb4LXvmZ5EcqBph4S22CODDmTG/s1600/IMG_6713.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The church at Rio Negro</td></tr>
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We learnt that he was 82 and had just been working on his allotment, a patch of land for vegetables that many Spanish seem to keep often in the middle of nowhere and not attached to anything, seemingly just set up where they fancy. He proudly told us that he never took any medication and never needed to see a doctor. He said he had never even had an aspirin in his entire life. He asked us about the Camino and where we were headed next. As usual he laughed about Michael taking the car, even though we try to explain about the dogs. The closer we draw to Santiago and the more popular parts of the Camino we walk on, the prouder the people get of their Camino. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg_cf0DPZYBdCzDC3DwTMfv9prLsP0_Zy7-z6n979fNw5MCaHT6VbXOBBpR_bTwIf5q8dUnz0ueiVXlJcwD_ukLiskuKpf87sbcpd2W4D2330Ep8riIpK8ZQxq_YSnL4e2GZo1mGl7DUXR/s1600/DSCF0380.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg_cf0DPZYBdCzDC3DwTMfv9prLsP0_Zy7-z6n979fNw5MCaHT6VbXOBBpR_bTwIf5q8dUnz0ueiVXlJcwD_ukLiskuKpf87sbcpd2W4D2330Ep8riIpK8ZQxq_YSnL4e2GZo1mGl7DUXR/s1600/DSCF0380.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Room at the hostal belonging to Bar Palacio. Book in<br />
at the bar who serve good home cooked food - in particular ask for<br />
the lentils - they are delicious!! 15 Euros for the night. </td></tr>
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After we said goodbye and tucked into our bocadillos we watched the dogs play and then sleep in the falling flock until we were ready to move on and find that night's accommodation. I had booked ahead at the Bar Palacio in Rio Negro where I would walk to tomorrow. We arrived to another set of friendly and welcoming faces and actually a few other peregrinos arriving to take up the accommodation as the Albergue (the pretty and renovated old Pilgrim hospital) seemed to be shut. <br />
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The lady who seemed to really run the place a real "madre" was Esther. We found her in Bar Palacio where the bookings are taken, sellos are issued and food is served. She was the most warm and welcoming lady and she too captured our attention, chatting to us alongside her friend about how hard work in the fields and good home grown and home cooked food was the success for longevity and health. Also, not partaking of alcohol! She explained that it gets very cold here and that the Rio Negro is so called because it freezes in winter and you can skae on it. It was hard to believe sitting outside with a cold beer in 28 degrees, but the road signs displaying snowflakes back up the fact that in winter this is a very different place! Esther too proudly announced that she was 81... a day for the octogenarians I think! She showed me to her hostal, which was an old farmhouse in the middle of town with a beautifully kept courtyard where she even offered us for the dogs to stay. They would have been a bit isolated and worried in a totally strange place outside, so we thanked her but declined. The rooms were comfortable and simple, and it felt like I was stepping back in time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgVNCG3j8vv3K85Sw0oJq898s75NxoovAOIb_aeqY9fCLM93NRx47ZJtKCd1c_uVcno5h7EiNUavz0UXw9BsNU9RVMcrnnTaCaBKqu2NY-6iSRqr154AQ6-PxT6Xog5CVrWVHMTyfOSD9W/s1600/IMG_6709.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgVNCG3j8vv3K85Sw0oJq898s75NxoovAOIb_aeqY9fCLM93NRx47ZJtKCd1c_uVcno5h7EiNUavz0UXw9BsNU9RVMcrnnTaCaBKqu2NY-6iSRqr154AQ6-PxT6Xog5CVrWVHMTyfOSD9W/s1600/IMG_6709.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Esther at the Bar Palacio - Rio Negro</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUNJSdAXSAXI_Tz7Ik6fUBZrqJGfXoT92lNnSQUrrTqxLsm3O4eIIG1NKm6yFn75MVQoC0n8Vrv0ep2AsHIU6d6MhyphenhyphenxRv3sCJTsu4FmiBW1zYLcrzBIBqM_-pgOVcgF1O0VyQWf2cgpAYa/s1600/IMG_6715.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUNJSdAXSAXI_Tz7Ik6fUBZrqJGfXoT92lNnSQUrrTqxLsm3O4eIIG1NKm6yFn75MVQoC0n8Vrv0ep2AsHIU6d6MhyphenhyphenxRv3sCJTsu4FmiBW1zYLcrzBIBqM_-pgOVcgF1O0VyQWf2cgpAYa/s1600/IMG_6715.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The overnight camp spot for Michael and the dogs - a<br />
beautiful location by the river</td></tr>
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She asked us what we would like to eat that evening and we told her our love for lentils and she told us that there were lentils and beans on the menu and that they taste best when made the day before. She's not wrong! When we came to partake of the fair later in the evening they were delicious and we ate plate after plate until bursting! As I sorted out my things and went for a shower in the accommodation, more and more people were checking in. Germans, English and a nice Spanish speaking man who we later discovered was called Carlos and he was from Venezuela. He invited us to meet up with him in Sanabria (which we did) and he walks different parts of the camino each year. He was quite a walker and moved at a fast pace. He just likes walking and apparently each year meets up with a friend who lives in the area.<br />
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With everyone discussing their age and it being Michael's birthday tomorrow, we ended up saying that we were going to stay at the cabins for a week and then I would walk a different section each day with the dogs but we could have some "holiday" time together between times. Everyone congratulated him and we said to Esther that we would return in a couple of days when I finally walked into Rio Negro officially and would have lentejas for lunch! She was delighted and promised to stamp my credential when I walked in on foot the next time we met. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS2VZ3yJyKLJqBJbfqv-8WO_cY41mxoLvL-CciLGooFQgNeXVTiTSTCef9WjIanp3eRr4Og5qD1xtf5CkUsfldwPN_-yH1Yd0CCOvOPGtAsUKp1fgdSvTxWHdc594NJY_cr34tCkCuQPSG/s1600/IMG_6718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS2VZ3yJyKLJqBJbfqv-8WO_cY41mxoLvL-CciLGooFQgNeXVTiTSTCef9WjIanp3eRr4Og5qD1xtf5CkUsfldwPN_-yH1Yd0CCOvOPGtAsUKp1fgdSvTxWHdc594NJY_cr34tCkCuQPSG/s1600/IMG_6718.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dogs enjoying a good run and play at their overnight camp spot on the Rio Negro itself! </td></tr>
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Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7130177312561675722.post-20287027156971483412014-08-17T06:02:00.001-07:002015-08-18T15:53:44.327-07:00El Camino (Levante) - Granja de Moreruela to Faramontanos de Tábara (17.9km)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilIwrX1JoYRQH6JawKDP3WMd7DwKL_MElbHOfIGjQic_d9vwh0yZ64In41a0LeIyGXfdHG1DPIo08yEXcF13QwzlrQRoZdjsO7J5Sq32CpuRULdrC9BlfcskwhdXny1JmwNuEEezJW9xaw/s1600/DSCF0332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilIwrX1JoYRQH6JawKDP3WMd7DwKL_MElbHOfIGjQic_d9vwh0yZ64In41a0LeIyGXfdHG1DPIo08yEXcF13QwzlrQRoZdjsO7J5Sq32CpuRULdrC9BlfcskwhdXny1JmwNuEEezJW9xaw/s1600/DSCF0332.JPG" width="400" /></a><br />
<b>Granja de Moreruela to Faramontanos de Tábara (17.9km) May 10th, 2014</b><br />
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The most beautiful walk on the camino so far. Little was I to know that this whole camino was going to be filled with walks like this and just stunningly beautiful. <br />
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Today's walk started through the railway workings and already the tractors were out spraying the dusty tracks where the lorries were working and taking their heavy loads back and forth. Here the camino was directed across the works and I guess this was the way that some peregrinos had come in having worked their way across country on the incorrect route having got lost on the previous leg. Now were were directed straight on rather than turning right as directed in the guidebook and on the maps. At least here the arrow had been painted out. The diversion was to avoid the path of the lorries carrying heavy stone and on the horizon I could see the towers from which the tractors filled their tanks with water. There are scattered along the entire route and the whole support infrastructure and additional excavations and building works that have gone on just to support the construction must cost a fortune in themselves.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS-2j7owYYa6tNvCOSSLloa1o9Z9rQHOCzWDnqMwDvshXY7wrK3BylLoCHxmVjCwa8GPvrKFBNgm_qK30bxviX7r3zcFwlUMwjIH2YWiiJXoQWwKki6uHeDSTtr_KvvkikE0gxF-rkITRx/s1600/DSCF0335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS-2j7owYYa6tNvCOSSLloa1o9Z9rQHOCzWDnqMwDvshXY7wrK3BylLoCHxmVjCwa8GPvrKFBNgm_qK30bxviX7r3zcFwlUMwjIH2YWiiJXoQWwKki6uHeDSTtr_KvvkikE0gxF-rkITRx/s1600/DSCF0335.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road ahead</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtJGZU1xti2qlS3sH1hzjA9PgWaoIjG39UmaXDpIyo113X_3-gw5hGD5Tr_VP5iGGxFpFYdf3EvKikxspZT1DJzSrQIzgjsmeQF4KM_S-a-2M61JSUjIGHYzibpSzjKA2klIT-nfb2hIdK/s1600/DSCF0336.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtJGZU1xti2qlS3sH1hzjA9PgWaoIjG39UmaXDpIyo113X_3-gw5hGD5Tr_VP5iGGxFpFYdf3EvKikxspZT1DJzSrQIzgjsmeQF4KM_S-a-2M61JSUjIGHYzibpSzjKA2klIT-nfb2hIdK/s1600/DSCF0336.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunrise over the crops</td></tr>
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From the GPS we could see where I would meet up with the camino again so I trusted the arrows and headed off. The cuckoos were amazing and really calling loudly as the sun started to rise and we paused to have our photo taken at the Granja camino marker. There is one of these in each town along the route, each with a little message to the pilgrim, different on each one, it's a really lovely touch and reminds us to take time to look around us, enjoy the journey and the path we are on and to learn about ourselves. Today was a perfect day for this. The road stretched out before us and although Michael had met a peregrino on his way back to the car, we were alone. She had also wanted to know if the direction was correct and it was nice that he could confirm this for her. The sun really lighted up the crops and the smell of thyme was heavy around us. I love smelling the dogs after they have run through the herby undergrowth as they smell deliciously of thyme, lavender and rosemary. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkUFevOlJinYeoNCCOzDYla4yOklRebiyPtKXSO3yco58HghX_MjYgquDlTPeYesZQTqGpjlX2WpPxPAqmEUXaK_63wKdUKmnYmkogGd3_MK-DllBaLd9ley4WFllG2ieAT5WjOOs_r5f5/s1600/DSCF0338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkUFevOlJinYeoNCCOzDYla4yOklRebiyPtKXSO3yco58HghX_MjYgquDlTPeYesZQTqGpjlX2WpPxPAqmEUXaK_63wKdUKmnYmkogGd3_MK-DllBaLd9ley4WFllG2ieAT5WjOOs_r5f5/s1600/DSCF0338.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Akina looking out over the <br />
wonderful scenery and herby<br />
undergrowth.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx-7EkzaDi_XdJ36E3pzt-Bg5eKUq1LI1EriJ6glTcQMGytCklxjRPm6cEs2-9PCwG3ovF5dBEGhMPjhPseNKza8M1WQfsZgUKeNFWg4YkYEBRqFnEILeBmf_ibsa4ipB8AUnNFDH1GF1g/s1600/DSCF0341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx-7EkzaDi_XdJ36E3pzt-Bg5eKUq1LI1EriJ6glTcQMGytCklxjRPm6cEs2-9PCwG3ovF5dBEGhMPjhPseNKza8M1WQfsZgUKeNFWg4YkYEBRqFnEILeBmf_ibsa4ipB8AUnNFDH1GF1g/s1600/DSCF0341.JPG" width="320" /></a>As we started up a long hill, not steep but very long, I heard cyclists behind us. I kept Akina beside me and it was lovely to hear them calling out "Buen Camino" as they passed us. I stopped often to take photographs and just look at such beautiful and peaceful surroundings. Everywhere there was an oak forest, although the trees are spread out, not closely packed and they provide perfect shade when walking. The majority of the day was like this, with beautiful trees and birds singing. The climb took us up above the river - Rio Esla, which we were going to climb above after crossing it. The steep banks and thick undergrowth make for interesting going but the vistas through the trees over the river and the height of the banks all make it worthwhile. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh61u4GzfOZ_62Z71FB1OrDwvBiJrjA5pr-olvPRP-bcCoEvyFmIWg6aYfPvYeVBXesl_lCOnxo9MF5AjG0uQjgr1ix4g2DfMD_QqwxSJtSsxDtBEdhYO31jpXXC6NaNpa4nnjfAhAQVR1V/s1600/DSCF0342.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh61u4GzfOZ_62Z71FB1OrDwvBiJrjA5pr-olvPRP-bcCoEvyFmIWg6aYfPvYeVBXesl_lCOnxo9MF5AjG0uQjgr1ix4g2DfMD_QqwxSJtSsxDtBEdhYO31jpXXC6NaNpa4nnjfAhAQVR1V/s1600/DSCF0342.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lavender lines most of the route</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhul_fvAsgCyKWx3LEgx_MdP0NNe7VYUBaGW2-OOSXSrZw_OTBrxbIy5r5ZFnCY58PtsV5g7-_HfpUr-gQzzDrEiSiHbScoOgEbxoXBuNQe3ut68qcck-hwXBTZ__CDwTMfxes8ARt6vCka/s1600/DSCF0343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhul_fvAsgCyKWx3LEgx_MdP0NNe7VYUBaGW2-OOSXSrZw_OTBrxbIy5r5ZFnCY58PtsV5g7-_HfpUr-gQzzDrEiSiHbScoOgEbxoXBuNQe3ut68qcck-hwXBTZ__CDwTMfxes8ARt6vCka/s1600/DSCF0343.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Akina coating her fur in the perfume of lavender</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As you come down from the long climb, you come out onto the road. It is only a short section of tar before reaching the bridge over the river. Another lovely spot with photo opportunities although there were plenty to come. The day before when heading out for our accommodation we had noticed the arrow on the far side of the bridge which seemed to point directly into a rockface. I was a tad concerned about this as you might imagine, as crampons had not figured on my list of equipment to bring and the guidebook suggested using the walking sticks and to go by road if it had been raining as the rocks are dangerous and slippery. It also says that cyclists must take the road route, which is very sad as it is hot and featureless and a really grim route. Cyclists not taking this route are missing out on some beautiful scenery and at the top, fabulous cycling. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzBZ6vBvc-DPAk09NY_cyUvaX8XgkkwjXm9COivsVagXBt-BYIbNCC8KGSJCWQ6WR-HNHJy82R9jz7WyzkIAItne4DG68V382vvvmJbcv-x0b1dyNnC4c4d_0bbu_ixwnxweWkzAqJ31sq/s1600/DSCF0344.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzBZ6vBvc-DPAk09NY_cyUvaX8XgkkwjXm9COivsVagXBt-BYIbNCC8KGSJCWQ6WR-HNHJy82R9jz7WyzkIAItne4DG68V382vvvmJbcv-x0b1dyNnC4c4d_0bbu_ixwnxweWkzAqJ31sq/s1600/DSCF0344.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another familiar site on this section of the camino<br />
from Zamora - many peregrinos will mark their passing by<br />
with stones</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
To be honest, if you read this and are a cyclist of some athleticism (and many who cycle these hills and camino routes are) and you have one of those light weight competitive bicycles, then if possible and if you are willing (and the weather is good so the rocks aren't slippery) I can't see why you couldn't carry the bike like on the mountain biking challenges, and head up the cliffs above the river. It's windy and you have to do a fair climb but it's not ridiculously far and not impossible. Once at the top, the tracks through the woodlands, the birdsong, the scent of the herbs, the flowers and peacefulness are well worth it. I just loved every second of this walk and if someone didn't walk any other part of the camino, I would recommend taking a day walk on this section. It is easy cycling and walking once at the top. I was however very glad of my telescopic walking stick and I have to say that it was the first time I had ever really used it for walking! It certainly gave some purchase on the uneven ground and support on the steep slopes. Mostly I have carried it to ward of any less friendly stray dogs, but I did actually use it for the purpose for which it was designed on this stretch! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgslu3lQ_OSFTyYiPowmuji8htICEUI24-3JmMU9yl9QPsVSzlZMgL0AOkXlz6bUsl-H99KdTddM6p0imVbnDm4pAjf7HWLGMJMewqTfLi6B23D0BPcOnCMmeP-q2lovE39c9F84Gwj2QsL/s1600/DSCF0345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgslu3lQ_OSFTyYiPowmuji8htICEUI24-3JmMU9yl9QPsVSzlZMgL0AOkXlz6bUsl-H99KdTddM6p0imVbnDm4pAjf7HWLGMJMewqTfLi6B23D0BPcOnCMmeP-q2lovE39c9F84Gwj2QsL/s1600/DSCF0345.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghtv97JTttklnmOh0_GIOsPQbOwfRKua2Oi9qBhr5LGiyN6yFZj4IglWw3SCM-ApxNVx4Ux_DElDbqRwyqZXZk6NBgX6tTnZiMzhnhOx_KQaMRUdyomSNMAGo7SLa27ldcVAnV7QxOcQ77/s1600/DSCF0346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghtv97JTttklnmOh0_GIOsPQbOwfRKua2Oi9qBhr5LGiyN6yFZj4IglWw3SCM-ApxNVx4Ux_DElDbqRwyqZXZk6NBgX6tTnZiMzhnhOx_KQaMRUdyomSNMAGo7SLa27ldcVAnV7QxOcQ77/s1600/DSCF0346.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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The views on the first part of the walk as you reach the river and bridge crossing that will take you up the steep climb and stunning walk through the forested area before heading on to Faramontanos de Tábara.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyuu2f9A7Ouyxju795ueInteheaUpWz4-vW-6T9UeW8rMdbWp6ltAcvE7Fgr58TQQn0rScRVdu9HDXUqG4D4Bu-hw7e5mgfJ_9DxBNqOkAxroNAmGQCbbCIHLl1j0id56Tqo0FbWS5bea0/s1600/DSCF0351.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyuu2f9A7Ouyxju795ueInteheaUpWz4-vW-6T9UeW8rMdbWp6ltAcvE7Fgr58TQQn0rScRVdu9HDXUqG4D4Bu-hw7e5mgfJ_9DxBNqOkAxroNAmGQCbbCIHLl1j0id56Tqo0FbWS5bea0/s1600/DSCF0351.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT-QYC2qw-iiN9pqeSsb6Qa8oqVU8-wtTFVZxFH4dIcQvL9uRB8ac1maCaA7KKqyRcpfZWimCcKAxqq2XHMnF9YsrNoYnBXZFL-fN-ItSk6-qFglugYSZOZHvVsCoTt5fxwR0VYyuYLurx/s1600/DSCF0352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT-QYC2qw-iiN9pqeSsb6Qa8oqVU8-wtTFVZxFH4dIcQvL9uRB8ac1maCaA7KKqyRcpfZWimCcKAxqq2XHMnF9YsrNoYnBXZFL-fN-ItSk6-qFglugYSZOZHvVsCoTt5fxwR0VYyuYLurx/s1600/DSCF0352.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On reaching the top you look back and can just see the<br />
bridge in the distance. It's then quite a flat and easy walk<br />
for the rest of the day, and still for quite a distance through<br />
woodland. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEGPV9gb-HAcZtDnizUtlOBnFGuOUWQ3oBo-4_N2xb8iEOYOP447XaOSM6fX3EDkNTs-59RZ-sGdNvKavzj8DiBsE6NeZYIHSRL2qoI1ewDoMoy0R4PwqgDWD-ajrivNfligrrmKaBZ9WJ/s1600/DSCF0354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEGPV9gb-HAcZtDnizUtlOBnFGuOUWQ3oBo-4_N2xb8iEOYOP447XaOSM6fX3EDkNTs-59RZ-sGdNvKavzj8DiBsE6NeZYIHSRL2qoI1ewDoMoy0R4PwqgDWD-ajrivNfligrrmKaBZ9WJ/s1600/DSCF0354.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There are no markers at the top, so<br />
pilgrims have built obviously "man made"<br />
stacks of stones, in a sort of Zen like<br />
fashion to help other pilgrims feel<br />
confident that they are on the right track</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxXMkc8dU6e3a9v6Eu0Aw9hZXeBDGT2VhH1bMlOF4nMHNKz76nIhNMpSlJU0DhoQFOZuAIBgeScJ4UOQm_RU_p3rpHOAHFHvG8mfDRE1LGe9Mz1MIWNhPg2mrtKfTsW9PxHN98AOcQF2fI/s1600/IMG_6680.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxXMkc8dU6e3a9v6Eu0Aw9hZXeBDGT2VhH1bMlOF4nMHNKz76nIhNMpSlJU0DhoQFOZuAIBgeScJ4UOQm_RU_p3rpHOAHFHvG8mfDRE1LGe9Mz1MIWNhPg2mrtKfTsW9PxHN98AOcQF2fI/s1600/IMG_6680.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrow at the beginning of the climb - keep the eyes<br />
open for markers indicating the way as sometimes<br />
it is a little unclear, but I do not think possible to get<br />
lost</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje7uNovI5dobA6Eba14goMSGgPPOxwxsiGsPMGy0sWRMDdi9j6h8zcin7g-FMUayWRMVIQDcRRKya7QVozrLAFinjvL6o4NdHf8-3lMwjPU2V4J4Tcuq_0LVk1LtqCtHq7pkwUlYERTT4d/s1600/IMG_6682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje7uNovI5dobA6Eba14goMSGgPPOxwxsiGsPMGy0sWRMDdi9j6h8zcin7g-FMUayWRMVIQDcRRKya7QVozrLAFinjvL6o4NdHf8-3lMwjPU2V4J4Tcuq_0LVk1LtqCtHq7pkwUlYERTT4d/s1600/IMG_6682.jpg" width="150" /></a>The lady I had seen walking in a different direction from myself yesterday leap frogged with me a few times. Sometimes I was resting up for a snack or water and sometimes she was doing the same thing. She seemed to be on quite a mission and marching out. Later we were to hear her complaining a bit about the heat - although she had chosen to walk a longer distance and continue on through midday and until 14.00! I have to say I was glad for an ice cold beer once we reached Faramontanos and was glad to head to the overnight stop as it was a particularly warm day once we were out from the shaded woodland area. I would agree that the climb up to the top would be a little challenging for someone who perhaps does not have such good balance and there are places where if river rises during flood times, the path could disappear under water. It is definitely important to check how weather conditions have been and if you would still like to walk it but feel less confident because of age or ability for some reason, see if there is another pilgrim willing to walk with you just on this stretch. It is so beautiful, it would be a real shame to miss it out and although a bit of a climb it's not really difficult walking, and there are lots of good excuses to stop and look at the view! <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPrh1AKfG-i6TZYhR9yOLsTgMnbhGD-oYIFInQqADyBvwwHYiFFB8_q7ILMrci5NT4auEVZq6bPngqZZSPhjfG1XlGxTl-qJMr_ZqXSJQOi5KYD8Fou2VNIM8ImbuQUQ5jPk6SJSuV6ghr/s1600/IMG_6681.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPrh1AKfG-i6TZYhR9yOLsTgMnbhGD-oYIFInQqADyBvwwHYiFFB8_q7ILMrci5NT4auEVZq6bPngqZZSPhjfG1XlGxTl-qJMr_ZqXSJQOi5KYD8Fou2VNIM8ImbuQUQ5jPk6SJSuV6ghr/s1600/IMG_6681.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The way is peaceful and beautiful and brings tranquility to the peregrino. There were perfect places to stop and camp out for the night and so I knew that Michael and the dogs would be able to find a peaceful and undisturbed spot. <br />
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The last part of the walk was in open farmland and now the sun started to heat up. Along the last part there was yet another route change and although marked (it looks like someone has just decided they do not want to the Camino on their land) it was hard to say how much further it was going to be. I had arranged for the dogs to be picked up but of course, now we were miles off the original direction. I was fortunate in finding a dam that Kaishi and Yume could cool off in and get a drink. Yume is still young and so I had not wanted her to do such a long walk. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdWgDgdEx5VrusnQO75HpwjyddQ2o1qGwB7PHgHd-qrqLCdZdk95TArnwIS3Wc-FJgLnOgmeragU_EpdX8qsGBOHJR14BGELl3nvucqFeLbCH8Vjz99mYowC2Lw0w00RrH-bBKFHmh-ioa/s1600/DSCF0355.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdWgDgdEx5VrusnQO75HpwjyddQ2o1qGwB7PHgHd-qrqLCdZdk95TArnwIS3Wc-FJgLnOgmeragU_EpdX8qsGBOHJR14BGELl3nvucqFeLbCH8Vjz99mYowC2Lw0w00RrH-bBKFHmh-ioa/s1600/DSCF0355.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pretty plants along the way</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiPuEzV3dWqKQwlLxn5s-kY7pHHgxsKPME0-8fXULbz_A7TXoXai1-ZMattld-4q65KD8i-jgaFgTUqZKMczgPtm0HUNl1okyyE4HjRmCGg75C0wRSxSB2YJdxKpOldOWqBsGyHTG-IV3o/s1600/DSCF0357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiPuEzV3dWqKQwlLxn5s-kY7pHHgxsKPME0-8fXULbz_A7TXoXai1-ZMattld-4q65KD8i-jgaFgTUqZKMczgPtm0HUNl1okyyE4HjRmCGg75C0wRSxSB2YJdxKpOldOWqBsGyHTG-IV3o/s1600/DSCF0357.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thankfully we found a dam for Yume and Kaishi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Soon we picked up the original markers again and found ourselves in Faramontanos for a lovely cold drink and a chat with some people who are building a pilgrim stop. They offered us accommodation and a courtyard for the dogs - which was so sweet and not the first time on this Camino we have found people more than welcoming of the dogs - but I explained we were already booked at the town ahead and thanked them. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN_dDU-Ru9yoA3aWQmrtv-87xjXkPw5keaI8jVd7Qr8J4ZWmT7hGt90hKAxcIjBG31vT14rVsOKM0IA3VV138_ETkx7jqpf4d3t_RxVIHPoevG-TLAyphi5AxQdLcJmSU5bep74Qgt_N0o/s1600/DSCF0359.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN_dDU-Ru9yoA3aWQmrtv-87xjXkPw5keaI8jVd7Qr8J4ZWmT7hGt90hKAxcIjBG31vT14rVsOKM0IA3VV138_ETkx7jqpf4d3t_RxVIHPoevG-TLAyphi5AxQdLcJmSU5bep74Qgt_N0o/s1600/DSCF0359.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Levante Route crosses and joins<br />
a number of other Caminos from Zamora<br />
to Santiago</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1sCwtdF4RlStqtUXym3P0FswE-BWrJ9yhszW55nfOGycXUkC9xxk5lvPD6lgmBDe3IxjRjUv7g7SCMRnSfiuxdRvQayod84wF3rRlqFLdFlAcXww7LbTDa0Xv1GFYPTorfwF8tNa4ToZ-/s1600/DSCF0358.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1sCwtdF4RlStqtUXym3P0FswE-BWrJ9yhszW55nfOGycXUkC9xxk5lvPD6lgmBDe3IxjRjUv7g7SCMRnSfiuxdRvQayod84wF3rRlqFLdFlAcXww7LbTDa0Xv1GFYPTorfwF8tNa4ToZ-/s1600/DSCF0358.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnrgdIYlk-thmTJKUKrhCkIfon5lw5phqni1jmrN-yklLyvnF5hqzoQZ2GLhAv7ddwilQB4TL1y8_DgXC0KjqZLtsq04km5PFDyTPr6CVcts8yvD7oAf0nSEHDBTzZWtzf0MjRE92mhmtT/s1600/IMG_6689.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnrgdIYlk-thmTJKUKrhCkIfon5lw5phqni1jmrN-yklLyvnF5hqzoQZ2GLhAv7ddwilQB4TL1y8_DgXC0KjqZLtsq04km5PFDyTPr6CVcts8yvD7oAf0nSEHDBTzZWtzf0MjRE92mhmtT/s1600/IMG_6689.jpg" width="608" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yume - so grown up outside the bar in Faramantanos</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaXvN79bqahUPwCAAUYVSAADoQrWiuHPlM0XC2MmmZCMljW4uu8fqIgftoh194LqN8Cug23tltHHAH8lcdFVdatOjrowohyphenhyphen3GDDHfZaKnF7Kys9fpztVtgtR5KCR8Yyf29gky0ozqfSe7P/s1600/IMG_6691.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaXvN79bqahUPwCAAUYVSAADoQrWiuHPlM0XC2MmmZCMljW4uu8fqIgftoh194LqN8Cug23tltHHAH8lcdFVdatOjrowohyphenhyphen3GDDHfZaKnF7Kys9fpztVtgtR5KCR8Yyf29gky0ozqfSe7P/s1600/IMG_6691.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michael's overnight stop with the dogs..</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh15-n1ZIaCIVlFg2wQGT6Pp6afgn0AC8yIPrQ0rhMWQ1qqpwJtZfDDvXXGLUE0y97GkQemNSJzKtxtyQMLQodv8K0UgbxPbwa8QSwue9bnaNWY6oyQtBhpvjsu6qY4DymYksfbdOMGUBwo/s1600/IMG_6694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh15-n1ZIaCIVlFg2wQGT6Pp6afgn0AC8yIPrQ0rhMWQ1qqpwJtZfDDvXXGLUE0y97GkQemNSJzKtxtyQMLQodv8K0UgbxPbwa8QSwue9bnaNWY6oyQtBhpvjsu6qY4DymYksfbdOMGUBwo/s1600/IMG_6694.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apparently I'm at the end of that arrow! Rather amusingly a big yellow camino arrow... no, it isn't really marking the route in this way! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9obAnkEOFZS15B0cnsg44P5j2SSjRZ81q1rhu0WnQad4i6RztzNYYbHzIE5R4zJTl1alo5oPSpIyQD_bAj_ib_zeSqXVTBiJTG29Zk44DPMHSHK0maF2__K4eEadb2wgzbf5wFuChZcrS/s1600/IMG_7030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9obAnkEOFZS15B0cnsg44P5j2SSjRZ81q1rhu0WnQad4i6RztzNYYbHzIE5R4zJTl1alo5oPSpIyQD_bAj_ib_zeSqXVTBiJTG29Zk44DPMHSHK0maF2__K4eEadb2wgzbf5wFuChZcrS/s1600/IMG_7030.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And here we are - yet another route change,<br />
one of the many, many changes on this stretch<br />
of the Camino through to Galica</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqvroDjG6TB2HCRYG8T8ismIPjdQpJF945bFwtUkM4xhP5QsMz2C9jlQ7VPQDw28is4Fs8j-ducFz7sIPhyphenhyphenBzIlA940gXg4Y3wA7ZKMuQrhmwihj32zceaPFjxVEwa0N0AvXTKjBcFL-2O/s1600/photo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqvroDjG6TB2HCRYG8T8ismIPjdQpJF945bFwtUkM4xhP5QsMz2C9jlQ7VPQDw28is4Fs8j-ducFz7sIPhyphenhyphenBzIlA940gXg4Y3wA7ZKMuQrhmwihj32zceaPFjxVEwa0N0AvXTKjBcFL-2O/s640/photo.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Robertson Mala - on its way to Galicia and the final stages of the Camino Levante. <br />The prayer of the day comes from Ann: "A safe journey with peace and tranquility" and<br />it was certainly that - the most beautiful part of my camino so far.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2L8pgZPEYNAyTTeumUghpTnK5oO1yctkqWzMS3vZKIg-EFxecPY9A4Rburym_6esAV7M4_hqIB89ctqg5tkPzWc_pVElMRRzhwKvUiV6C_JTkqfILGqRl9H4sQvjgp99br_kIXUMyIY9E/s1600/DSCF0310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2L8pgZPEYNAyTTeumUghpTnK5oO1yctkqWzMS3vZKIg-EFxecPY9A4Rburym_6esAV7M4_hqIB89ctqg5tkPzWc_pVElMRRzhwKvUiV6C_JTkqfILGqRl9H4sQvjgp99br_kIXUMyIY9E/s1600/DSCF0310.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">May God accompany you...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
Montamarta to Granja de Moreruela (22.4km) May 8th, 2014</h4>
Peregrinos everywhere! It's just astonishing how different it is now I am past Zamorra. It was also very interesting to note my own reaction to all these pilgrims (on this day all 8 of them!!)... I had previously had 800km all to myself and now I discovered I felt quite possessive about the camino! I felt a bit irritated and annoyed that there were so many and where was my solitude?! On thinking about this I was quite astonished at the amount of emotion I felt over this. Attached to the solitude I guess?! Hmmmm - food for thought and "beware"!! It is amazing how quickly and where we create our comfort zones! I could fully appreciate why pilgrims talk of walking the more solitary routes and then, if they have decided to head north and join the Camino Frances, they find it a bit of a shock!<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjeSIoaYSGfRqV0S7K2GtCpq2anzzlp9wT2YLYUkIFufxmlEbOlJnokaiOTrpTqdSWVEYxf6HyIs4-NSMPcPVGb4fZQTXNJpFXGoH73U0rnrh21T6jFTTS7C8Bk_apirhdWAR6S_5mc6B/s1600/DSCF0312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjeSIoaYSGfRqV0S7K2GtCpq2anzzlp9wT2YLYUkIFufxmlEbOlJnokaiOTrpTqdSWVEYxf6HyIs4-NSMPcPVGb4fZQTXNJpFXGoH73U0rnrh21T6jFTTS7C8Bk_apirhdWAR6S_5mc6B/s1600/DSCF0312.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kaishi leads the way as the sun rises</td></tr>
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As it happens, over a few days and after meeting and seeing familiar faces at different stages of the route, in different bars and accommodations and befriending and chatting to some of them, I could understand the camaraderie yet everyone understood that this was each individual's camino and did not intrude or link up with another unless that was invited. I was most impressed and there was a kind of apart but together support - a bit like being on a silent meditation, when a group of people not talking to each other can feel warm and supportive, actually far more than they sometimes do when they are talking! <br />
<br />
After a few days, I enjoyed being on the camino with these other peregrinos, although I never did quite get used to them being "behind" me or overtaking. I preferred to stop and let them pass and go their own pace, otherwise I felt almost as though I was being driven along at a pace that I hadn't set. This too got easier and was not necessarily a problem if someone was walking fast, caught up and passed - but where there was someone kind of "just a little distance behind" it often felt uncomfortable. A bit like when driving and someone is just going that speed that means they are a bit too fast to overtake, yet you are going to be too close on their tail to stay behind. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJz9LYgG91asjk4-Zf3EuZWxlCmW9E2hPMFDbbfyxtWX7TtpLs3ZBuJZOzwcwHbsThUAGajjy8ESH1WxK-Hgy1o-aDtPZIaweF0nnJQiiATWLifezShutpt2nuoBP8IvP4ip4Ienq62h7C/s1600/DSCF0311.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJz9LYgG91asjk4-Zf3EuZWxlCmW9E2hPMFDbbfyxtWX7TtpLs3ZBuJZOzwcwHbsThUAGajjy8ESH1WxK-Hgy1o-aDtPZIaweF0nnJQiiATWLifezShutpt2nuoBP8IvP4ip4Ienq62h7C/s1600/DSCF0311.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sign indicating we should go<br />
under the new railway via the<br />
underpass</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We started the day heading uphill from the Ermita and again witnessing a beautiful sunrise. It was glorious and a beautiful walk. In fact, almost every single one of the 10 days had the most stunning walks of the whole camino so far, and to be honest there have been some pretty amazing walks! The way this time was breathtaking and inspiring, so much so that often I just wanted to keep on walking. It was addictive and the walking makes one feel so close to the world and its beauty, it seems the most natural thing to do. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEnkXd2UeJpHnbluUXK_aVdb6unzY60cgHii8q3zhg6J9qOa9ZoI2v8jE91_EbPyZGMXfwV3n2BMsX9uLhLWL0qezemAbN5CVk7icKy3vjaHtyTn-GjWo4RxM9QZDboPtTAchzsjw9ogpY/s1600/DSCF0317.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEnkXd2UeJpHnbluUXK_aVdb6unzY60cgHii8q3zhg6J9qOa9ZoI2v8jE91_EbPyZGMXfwV3n2BMsX9uLhLWL0qezemAbN5CVk7icKy3vjaHtyTn-GjWo4RxM9QZDboPtTAchzsjw9ogpY/s1600/DSCF0317.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kaishi at the camino marker above the dam</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR104BQxSaW75r7gx-rbh1JTl53rLffYlNms_SCE3ml8JbfyvwtymPSMxjk7sHsKY00DTCPSleZolGXneU1v2cJuldB8h6ESV6z69US-INIL_J3LCrrb-6KXcHa3J12sH7VrS8DY1zaYLT/s1600/DSCF0319.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR104BQxSaW75r7gx-rbh1JTl53rLffYlNms_SCE3ml8JbfyvwtymPSMxjk7sHsKY00DTCPSleZolGXneU1v2cJuldB8h6ESV6z69US-INIL_J3LCrrb-6KXcHa3J12sH7VrS8DY1zaYLT/s1600/DSCF0319.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching the dam</td></tr>
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<br />
<br />
On reaching the top of the hill there is an underpass going below the new railway and on this occasion there was a sign, still covered and yet to be fully "unveiled" to mark the way of the camino. From here we climb a little more through a beautiful woodland path which brings us onto the main road which we cross. At this point we have to be careful to look for diversion signs and where to go as there are huge lorries and earth moving vehicles working as part of the railway construction. This section at the time I walked it was easy to follow, but further on peregrinos were again abandoned on the busy and dangerous highway. Re-crossing the road the track heads across fields and then winds gently upwards taking us past some lovely houses with a view over the dam. On this section was another of the fabulous camino markers like the one in Montamarta.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP1AHwQBzuzY1nOKlQ1DQpm8s5ayQcwwddVICT3tBnbwe9C915Cu42eEM0kuHbCE_r1M8zSGkGUZZaf8n8X8bke0PlIKC38EAV8JD1HsxP9v3TDw0srHNUlzVmtYCGRiSrRCNBb1XeCfzf/s1600/DSCF0321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP1AHwQBzuzY1nOKlQ1DQpm8s5ayQcwwddVICT3tBnbwe9C915Cu42eEM0kuHbCE_r1M8zSGkGUZZaf8n8X8bke0PlIKC38EAV8JD1HsxP9v3TDw0srHNUlzVmtYCGRiSrRCNBb1XeCfzf/s1600/DSCF0321.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yume exploring near Castrotorafe</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCVtDLbYXZIPlIByMM1oNR7mLWHyvidKXljHdMaFTit0KPM1VdHvL6VyP-feAd7TtOwXLuGJQZqwnOOGBW65LXAmjgPQvlxNMaVz2aBPAEQVzh37guzz6iq7U77xN_p-KWVH9gh5xmA7I7/s1600/DSCF0320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCVtDLbYXZIPlIByMM1oNR7mLWHyvidKXljHdMaFTit0KPM1VdHvL6VyP-feAd7TtOwXLuGJQZqwnOOGBW65LXAmjgPQvlxNMaVz2aBPAEQVzh37guzz6iq7U77xN_p-KWVH9gh5xmA7I7/s1600/DSCF0320.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marker and the castle ruins ahead</td></tr>
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On meeting the support vehicle I decided to take a lift up the road next to the building works. Lorries were coming like lunatics and there was little room to walk on the edge of the road. The day before one had come so close to a peregrino the suction as it past had spun him round. It was certainly not a place I wanted to walk the dogs and I decided to take the luxury of a lift past this dangerous spot. On stopping where the Camino should cross the railway again - nothing. Lots of markers but no indication where to go. Later on in the walk we discovered these signs indicate that there will be pilgrims on the road, not that there is a Camino crossing at that point - which they generally indicate on other parts of the camino. We wandered about trying to find the camino again and then discovered a sign right at the point they are about to start digging more works for the railway. This is not likely to be accessible in the near future - maybe not even as I write this, less than a week since my return. This will mean that peregrinos will need to continue along the main road - or at least until the railway is finished and hopefully they will then be diverted onto nicer tracks. A little further along, toward the ruins of a magnificent castle - Castrotorafe, which was the seat of the knights of Santiago and a very important settlement in the Middle Ages - there was another left turn off the main road and I took this one. At the end of this track we again pick up the markers, a large one shown in the photo above. Here I passed a pilgrim walking in the opposite direction - much to my confusion, but I thought she must be choosing to walk on the road for some strange reason. I was to meet her and pass her and she me, leapfrogging each other, on several occasions the following day. On this stretch I took little Yume who was delighted to have a go "on her own" and have quality time with me.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSCK_GUIYZgsvcu-qmKeIKp7xehaFkhYqcih5Uap2a3g-MGG-POwAirOxHQeVvyY4IRA1doZ5yGVHo6A-EMsduOeamP_S0erBMJQ0ff75K74nAhHDnBlzdrAr4FzxPM76LZgkD-5lcqCeh/s1600/DSCF0323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSCK_GUIYZgsvcu-qmKeIKp7xehaFkhYqcih5Uap2a3g-MGG-POwAirOxHQeVvyY4IRA1doZ5yGVHo6A-EMsduOeamP_S0erBMJQ0ff75K74nAhHDnBlzdrAr4FzxPM76LZgkD-5lcqCeh/s1600/DSCF0323.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peregrinos in the distance!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From here it was a straight open route to our next meeting point, just outside the small village of Riego del Camino. Here there are signs in three directions - one onwards, towards Granja de Moreruela, one into town and one to the albergue. This is mentioned in the guide as a basic refugio with beds and hot water so it's possible, should they wish, for pilgrims to stop at this point. At our meeting point there were two large mastins guarding a field next to some horses - they were roaming loose on the other side of a fence and Yume was at first keen to say hello. However, their barks and my warning returned her to my side and she was then excellent at ignoring them even though she was off leash. As hoped, she was learning a lot from this daily and extended walking. The mastins, seeing we were no trouble, also just silently watched us pass and followed on their side of the fence at a distance - keeping a watchful but unworried eye. <br />
<br />
We headed on over some wide, flat country and near some pines I put the leash on Yume as there were still a few processionary caterpillar nests about - although dirty and grey and on their way out. There were two peregrinos on my tail, a distance but gaining on me and I stopped to take off my long sleeved shirt and put on sunglasses and nip behind a bush. I set off again and they were closer but somehow never catching me up. I felt like I was in a Monty Python movie - The Holy Grail, where the knights are advancing on the castle and yelling and never getting any closer and then suddenly there they are!! I kept expecting to turn around and they would suddenly be right behind me! However, I got into Riego del Camino where we hoped to have a coffee break and pick up a bocadillo. As I neared the town I reached into my camelbak for my phone to let Michael know that I was nearing the meeting point... and it wasn't there! Sudden panic. I knew exactly where it was! Where I had stopped. I had been in such a rush to put my pack back on and move off before the other peregrinos descended on me that it had slipped off the pack and onto the grass. Now I almost ran the last km to the meeting point, and when I arrived - no vehicle! I wandered the town - which was almost completely dead and which was so in the Middle Ages still that they had the goats living under the houses in the middle of the town. I hurried back to the meeting point - poor Yume now thirsty and hot as the sun's intensity increased and still no vehicle. I couldn't even ask to borrow a phone from someone as of course I hadn't got Michael's numbers written down - a huge flaw in the back up plans and one I intended to rectify immediately assuming I got my phone back. Finally - there was the car! Late as there hadn't been any cafes or bars anywhere selling food and so Michael had been driving to find provisions. I bundled in Yume and we set off back down the road and turned onto a track that would take us onto a drivable part of the camino. <br />
<br />
As we got to my stopping point - there it was! The relief was unbelievable.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgweRHt-J263oSqHLZ2xaqgWVAeKkiOW2yKNLtdwz0nBjnjeHol_-oj6_YrBzTQsfNc0006j7Of9kjTQsDAKAj7DeSKN7ZVxkcWQsznbHqT-eCKqfhEE6m3S32Fp5M1OQVDubgACJ53wa1P/s1600/DSCF0325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgweRHt-J263oSqHLZ2xaqgWVAeKkiOW2yKNLtdwz0nBjnjeHol_-oj6_YrBzTQsfNc0006j7Of9kjTQsDAKAj7DeSKN7ZVxkcWQsznbHqT-eCKqfhEE6m3S32Fp5M1OQVDubgACJ53wa1P/s1600/DSCF0325.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The AVE railway construction runs along the camino.<br />
These blue signs with yellow arrows are very<br />
confusing as they are for the construction vehicles, yet<br />
are identical to some used to mark diversion on the<br />
camino!!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyCEhqiGjlgIbdtTFd9tBmNwBoPxhoanrw8tdJ143WqLzofSG8L77keKpH_M57DcxhpDSnVisIBdKGgHOEQbvg4Hu5FmO6PNqOtK5eSlhJs05hHgQhW2yRxFldETvDdC54hfN9JqeoK-UW/s1600/DSCF0324.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyCEhqiGjlgIbdtTFd9tBmNwBoPxhoanrw8tdJ143WqLzofSG8L77keKpH_M57DcxhpDSnVisIBdKGgHOEQbvg4Hu5FmO6PNqOtK5eSlhJs05hHgQhW2yRxFldETvDdC54hfN9JqeoK-UW/s1600/DSCF0324.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a>We drove back to the meeting point as various peregrinos (including my Monty Python cast extras) passed by - I'm sure they must have thought I was leap frogging! Much relieved and grateful for food and a refill of water, I set off again - having let the others get a good distance ahead - maybe a km or more up the slight hill ahead of me. Akina accompanied me as she copes with the heat much better and we strode out for Granja. Over the rise, yet still with a good view into the distance, there wasn't a peregrino in sight - and not a sign to be had! The new railway now cut right across our path and continued into the distance right over the top of the camino. I saw fresh footprints in the sand and dust and followed them. Finally we found an arrow here and there and eventually the camino turned from under the railway workings and found its way across the countryside again, the little concrete pillars marking the way. It was beautiful again - thankfully, as the heat had been even more intense and tiring on the deep sandy railway construction surface and that kind of walking drains the energy. Fortunately there were some deep puddles which had collected from where the tractors and their bowsers constantly dowse the surface and so Akina could get an extra drink. <br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQd8XHtzDaviwCU8Tr7b2kGUl81y4ess6t7eASmaHiiuhNYh5XsIe3sJEbHrLWmRb1l170_sqq15iwcDXwWC5z8pYIYwcW8oI_7zA1NpbLVxTcLcQjyWIZkysm_JWnS1Ws2JkvyabOE5qQ/s1600/DSCF0326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQd8XHtzDaviwCU8Tr7b2kGUl81y4ess6t7eASmaHiiuhNYh5XsIe3sJEbHrLWmRb1l170_sqq15iwcDXwWC5z8pYIYwcW8oI_7zA1NpbLVxTcLcQjyWIZkysm_JWnS1Ws2JkvyabOE5qQ/s1600/DSCF0326.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally the Camino reappears from under the railway<br />
workings</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As we reached the top of another rise, the nice track again got overtaken and diverted by the railway. And then - no more signs and in addition to this, still no sign of any pilgrims! Suddenly they were walking fast!! Having not wanted to be with anyone else yesterday and trying to avoid them earlier today, I would now have given anything to know we were all on the track together! I scouted around for the footprints I had been following earlier - I knew the tread well, and there they were. So off we went... into nowhere and into what seemed like an impassable area where the railway vehicles were really working intensely. We were not on the right track. I could see the town way to my right and this route was taking us away.<br />
<br />
I conferred with my back up vehicle which was already in town and had located a pilgrim's bar and Albergue. I wanted Akina picked up and new water brought for her as we had now run out as we had been ambling around for ages. The only thing to do was head back as scrambling down vertical banks was not going to be possible. The moment I got back to a bridge - which ran right across the railway and which was crossed by speeding trucks with construction material, there was a marker!! It would have been SO easy for them to have marked the way. If I had known or thought of it then, I would have built one of the wonderful arrows to help others... and I know more would make this mistake, because as I entered the town, the two Python peregrinos who had been behind me all morning and overtaken me in Riego... were suddenly behind me again! They must have gone a long way wrong and turned round and walked all the way back, to be in this position! Yet nearer still to the town, more pilgrims were coming from all directions, I guessed they had also gone wrong and somehow negotiated the building works to get back on track. In fact the next day the track went to where we would have come out and I guess that some of those I met had got onto this part of the camino and back-tracked. <br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioOi6zzN5Psbdscr8J49RDchVZhecPYDIueiC0s_m_fca8AQGwqQvhGhnEqEdSIEbZjCiVp_MXKpd6q40L8MsJUPlOOb5asf-XPW0wfvss0pgjq5J671EAvhuTdZ5-6xPWhKX2Ciu5PMCM/s1600/DSCF0327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioOi6zzN5Psbdscr8J49RDchVZhecPYDIueiC0s_m_fca8AQGwqQvhGhnEqEdSIEbZjCiVp_MXKpd6q40L8MsJUPlOOb5asf-XPW0wfvss0pgjq5J671EAvhuTdZ5-6xPWhKX2Ciu5PMCM/s1600/DSCF0327.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I struck gold with Hostal Galicia </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp3wvMlLd9disujoZSJmTxHsCowF84CU9fzSRPmzh2kDxHzsK67kmYSNYWJSpdPZaXSkurxbjpZ03qmMeR0qBjuus-3U7RgTWsAGSMwmjC6MPVdNEMFCh4Fwdp2YOSnpsRMJvgl1ku2CAO/s1600/DSCF0328.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp3wvMlLd9disujoZSJmTxHsCowF84CU9fzSRPmzh2kDxHzsK67kmYSNYWJSpdPZaXSkurxbjpZ03qmMeR0qBjuus-3U7RgTWsAGSMwmjC6MPVdNEMFCh4Fwdp2YOSnpsRMJvgl1ku2CAO/s1600/DSCF0328.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The kitchen!!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We were all delighted to get to the bar and order an ice cold beer. Many of them sat with the peregrino menu and were tucking into platefuls of delicious looking thick lentils. Mmmmmm!! We only hoped we would get the same later!! Our booking for the night was a little ahead of where we finished, and where I would be walking the following day, so I had booked two nights. As it happened, although the numbers I had called were seemed to be redundant, as I was to find throughout this trip, there is a lot of accommodation and many people arriving to take rooms without booking. I struck gold with this one though. Coming into Tábara, the check in is at Hostal Galicia II (980 590 136) on the edge of town. They are happy to drive you to the accommodation which is pretty much central but lovely and quiet. At 15 Euros per night it is amazing - I had a kitchen, bathroom and a suite of rooms (!) all to myself. If I had needed it I could have done a good wash with the machine and in the perfect weather, the little washing I did have dried quickly on the courtyard line outside my room. The owners and the bar staff were delightful - so helpful, friendly, welcoming and willing to chat. I heard voices in broken Spanish through the evening as other peregrinos also discovered the delights of the hostal and in communication with the host. As with every accommodation I have stayed at in Spain so far, however basic, it was spotless. <br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggcJ5jV8XUgRXd6u6PzhPVczXPO7ajErDZxMF5LkgQgYq2d6x3XrXp6mSlcCA6GDMij6fp7yl6Z7fGKnjIPtQAaUPgh1TOCtWgU7KWOLtMdPtX5ME8oyGeQJa2exbd5oCrEDdj1kCbGYo6/s1600/IMG_7028.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggcJ5jV8XUgRXd6u6PzhPVczXPO7ajErDZxMF5LkgQgYq2d6x3XrXp6mSlcCA6GDMij6fp7yl6Z7fGKnjIPtQAaUPgh1TOCtWgU7KWOLtMdPtX5ME8oyGeQJa2exbd5oCrEDdj1kCbGYo6/s1600/IMG_7028.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The roadworks that cross the route and<br />
mean diversions and sometimes no redirection<br />
at all, just road walking until you find<br />
a way to get back on the camino. The<br />
various arrows at the top of the map<br />
direct pilgrims on or to albergues or<br />
the town at Fontanillos de Castro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Dinner was at the Roble (Oak) bar just off the town square and with a big scallop shell proclaiming pilgrims welcome and over the two nights we were certainly surrounded by them! Germans, French, English and American with a couple of Spanish. Most were older - 50's and over - and not the 20-30 yo demographic I had expected. We got the lentils we had craved - although a little thin I have to say and not as chunky and heart warming as those we had spied at the Albergue in Granja (!)... The service was friendly and warm and actually, what more can one want? If you want to stay in the Albergue in Granja, it is actually welcoming and looks very nice and the room fee from what I could overhear seemed to be 5 Euros. I do believer however that it is "floor" showers and toilets and not beds - so if you have a back, hip or other physical challenge then it might not be for you. Floors sadly no longer suit my back and also I did not want to carry the extra weight of carry mats on these trips even if I could cope, but it's not worth locking up so that I would not be able to walk at all. <br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtR4WO9NcTCm0UoVqoE_oVf9hLPGKDkP5OVjxnbgzX-67rq3d2RIJWU54ybshk5ewZ2qgYexbuUVb61m7kDHgsFP9EPDoBFAVKGQHwH0wo_zW9vDsU5oVqzhA-5bQiB5Wh7-dOrVuPx1sA/s1600/IMG_7029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtR4WO9NcTCm0UoVqoE_oVf9hLPGKDkP5OVjxnbgzX-67rq3d2RIJWU54ybshk5ewZ2qgYexbuUVb61m7kDHgsFP9EPDoBFAVKGQHwH0wo_zW9vDsU5oVqzhA-5bQiB5Wh7-dOrVuPx1sA/s1600/IMG_7029.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rerouted through the fields with the<br />
railway in dashes... circled is where a <br />
redirection sign really should be placed<br />
as so many of us (all I believe) went<br />
wrong. Some walking many km out<br />
of their way on a very, very hot day<br />
and near the end of our water. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If you decide on the Galicia and arrive on foot into Tábara, then as you get near the town there are two arrows. One seems to take you into a field (which is correct if you are continuing on the Camino or going to the town centre) but if you wish to check in and go to the Galicia II check in point - you need to follow the arrow where there is also an "A" painted. I do not know if this refers to the Albergue, as I did not see it, but it will take you to the right point. The Albergue here is apparently very basic - floor and showers only. I recommend the Galicia if you have the funds!<br />
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Leadchangeshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02189651110963701696noreply@blogger.com0