El Camino (Levante) Castro Dozón to just above Botos (just over 13.8km) - Tuesday 1st  October and Day Off - Wednesday 2nd October, 2019.  

Our friends had taken up the massage offer and as I was up and ready to leave early, I didn't get the chance to wish them a buen camino and I didn't see them again.  I got up, dressed in the quiet, crept upstairs for my shoes having left everything ready by the back door, and was back on the Camino by 07.30 - the sooner out, the sooner I can be relaxing for a day and a half off!

Little chapel on the N525 - can
imagine it on a quieter road
in days gone past

Cross outside the chapel 

It was very hard to see the at that time of the morning, but as the eyes became accustomed they glowed out of the dark!  The industrial estate was a bit sad - one factory, polystyrene, closed and the only building on the site!  Even without the recession, polystyrene was never going to last.

Funny, even the bus stops here are
shaped like Hórreos!  N525 on the
way to Puxalas

There was quite a lot of easy walking on the road although hard on the feet, following the N525 until it finally turned off left toward Puxalas.  It was well marked all the way and I walked right past the "smelly cafe" that we had passed on our food search the night before.  Why smelly?  Because there was a "seriously' bad aroma of sewage in this area that wafts with the wind over this particular ridge.  We could not see the culprit, so I can only imagine that the topography of the area catches, intensifies and then redistributes the awful pong right in this spot!  It happens to be strongest right around where the cafe is situated, so maybe this is a reason for the bar owner's surliness?!   He had been very abrupt and rude - so we would not have patronised here anyway, yet it is so convenient for a brief stop on the way and right on the Camino.  Rudeness is unusual in Spain, or so I have found, but there seemed to be an abundance of it in this little area.  It was certainly rife on our restaurant hunt the previous evening!

Sound of Music moment - and strangely red knees and white shins??

After heading off the N525 I climbed on lovely wide sandy tracks toward Puxalas.  This was a lovely walk and I could not believe it when I saw the car parked on the summit of the hillside ahead.  I couldn't believe that I had got to this point so quickly and it was such a lovely surprise to see the little Fiat that M had managed to guide up the dirt road.  The storms, as forecast, held off but the skies were moody and dramatic - as in the photo here.

St James garden
ornament

For some reason, I hd red knees, white shins and with my purple/pink socks they looked like old lady legs in compression stockings!  At least it was warm enough for shorts.  After the delicious cafe con leche I headed off again into the village and today's walk brought many wayside crosses and many statues of Santiago, including a huge one inside someone's gate.  It was a huge garden ornament!  People were walking, with "pet" dogs (not so usual in Spain) and many called out happy "hola"s and "buen camino"s.  

There are often these little crosses
attached to fences.  On the Frances
there is one with a whole line of them.

On the way out of Puxalas

After the village, I headed past me and I was astonished later when we met to hear how he had driven the same route that I had walked, which was pretty much "off roading"!  I passed through a beautifully wooded area toward the large motorway, where the Middle Ages briefly meets the 21st Century way to Santiago before being plunged back into history with the way lined with old houses and medieval bridges.

The track that Michael also drove - on the way to the
motorway crossing

At the point where I took the photograph of the cross in the fence a forest official stopped to check I was OK because I had stopped.  I love how people look out for each other here and have such a community feel.  There er downsides too, especially where political allegiances come into play, but on the whole and in general life, there is a great spirit of support here.

The road leading down to the
medieval bridge.  

One was a beautiful example of a medieval bridge with the arches still visible but now tarred over the top and next to it the most stunning "Zen" like river and pool, peacefully trickling and above it, the tunnel of the old railway leading onto an old railway bridge - I could have stayed here for hours.  Very meditative.

The beautiful Zen like stream and pool

Medieval road up from the Zen pool

From here, one climbs again, along another medieval track with huge paving slabs which need to be appreciated because after this time of peace and tranquility, one is "thrust" into the outskirts of Lalín and back to the world of modern railway tracks, town infrastructure and uglier buildings.

As I headed down a tarred road toward Lalín I was passed by an Italian couple - joyful and loud, shouting their conversation between each other and calling Ciao Bella and Buen Camino to me!   Shortly after this I passed them as they were sorting out a puncture (impressively and expertly fast) and I called to them "lo siento".  They were still cheerful and later they sailed past me again just before I turned onto the main road into Lalín with yet more of their Italian Camino group who were cycling together from, I guess, a club - as they all wore the same Camino shirts.  There were more shouts of Buen Camino and Ciao Bella.  They lady slowed to ask me if I was walking alone and was quite amazed.  An old gentleman too expressed astonishment after he had asked me if I walked alone to Santiago, yet surely as a local he must see many pilgrims walking this way.

Pilgrim drinking fountain and welcome at Botos - the steps
lead up to the abandoned plaza mayor and ayuntamiento

I was starting to feel it now.  The effects of lots of tar road and steep hills and as I came out of Lalín there was yet another steep ascent into Botos.  It was warming up and humid - threatening storms later and it was a long trudge.  The signs here are now for the Vía de la Plata - in Galician Prata - as more and more Caminos mingle together.  The signs are old and worn but indicate the way clearly enough.  I could hardly put one foot in front of the other and I was spurred on by the fact that tomorrow would be a day off.

Arrival in Botos

As I arrived at the meeting point and my stopping point for the day, a lovely old wayside cross in what is yet another mostly abandoned village and closed ayuntamiento, I could see that it was at the bottom of another hill.  I was tired, but I wanted to get it out of the way so that I could start at the top next time.  A drink.  A bite of my bocadillo and I headed off again - the sun out and very hot, challenging me up this last push of the day.  I passed a chap in his huge field of a garden and his yellow lab was playing and friendly along the fence which rallied me a little.  The chap was a bit surprised as I passed and greeted him - again, it seemed strange as pilgrims must pass by.  Anyway, I was VERY glad to finish at the top of this hill and looking forward rd to a cold beer and bite to eat.

We headed in to Silleda where we would be staying for a couple of nights.  A lovely double room, lovely bathroom - with bath for soaking tired muscles - and a balcony all of its own!  Wow, this was amazing and we planned to have a meal and some wine outside if the weather held.  It actually got a bit chilly in the evening but we did manage to have wine and read books while the washing dried on the balcony wall.  At one point, my favourite walking shirt blowing into the road below!  M came to the rescue and dashed off and around the building, scrambling through some bushes to find the shirt - which I kept an eye on from above in case anyone else should come along and find it, although I think that side of the building is rarely visited.

On the way into the town we had found the most fabulous little bar - as often is the case in Spain, it looked nothing from the outside and inside was more grocery than bar.  However, the owner was friendly and the food amazing!  We got a sample of the Lentejas and noticed the kitchen awards for each year 2017, 18 and 19!  Sadly, lunch is only 13.00 to 14.00 so we had missed it, but could totally see why it was a winner.  When M knocked over his beer, the owner thought he had knocked over my wine and was about to bring me another - very generous.

Wednesday 3rd October - Day Off!

Relaxing, washing clothes, reading, writing my diary - chilling ready for the next leg of the journey.  Credential stamped twice to show I had been staying here and it was part of the continuous journey and enjoying the particularly delicious Octopus (pulpo) dishes here - wow, just heaven on a plate.  I would totally book to stay at the Apartamentos Casas Novas again.  Great staff, great food, good rooms, great location and pilgrim rates from €35.00 - but for this you get an apartment, not just a room so if you are looking for a couple of nights and are taking a mid Camino break on this final leg, it is perfect.

https://www.booking.com/hotel/es/apartamentos-casas-novas.en-gb.html
https://casasnovashosteleria.com