Life at Casa Almaz and set up for Leadchanges Dog Holidays and training

Just how I love my kitchens!

Well, we are two weeks in and I can't believe how settled we are already.  The house is almost completely organised, just the guest bedroom to finish off and the downstairs bathroom and we are there!  Partly these will still be a bit disorganised until the shed and kennels go up as there will be a dog equipment storage space so we can move it out of the house.

The walks for our own and guest dogs is just superb and anyone wanting their dogs to get great walks and a home away from home, then this really is the place (see the clip below of Kaishi and Akina playing).  The play/work area is a lovely space and the landlords will be putting the main fence in soon.  We will put in the additional fencing.

Walks that are made for dogs!  This is really the most perfect place for them and far exceeds what we had hoped for

View back toward Alhama (left) and the farm centre from
the Olive groves and almond orchards on the opposite
hill to the house

We have also found some great houses for the dogs - safe wood, safe weather proofing, chew proofed, hoseable for disinfecting down, easy to clean and access and with an entrance porch and inside wall that protects the dog from all weathers including snow.  They are also insulated against cold and heat - warm in winter, cool in summer plus they are raised off the ground.  This means rather than converting our own dogs' kennel into guest ones and buying a new area for ours, we can give our own dogs their original home and create a feed/store room out of the area that used to house the running machine and our overflow!  The roof will be extended to give separate feed areas and there will be a secure entrance area with access directly from the house for us - so that even in bad weather we will not have to get soggy visiting the dogs.  Of course, for guests who request it, all the dogs will get "home/family" time with us but in bad weather they too will be able to have a quick dry access to the house.

The perfect picnic - about 5 minutes stroll from the house!

The dogs and Cleo are settling
in so well - they were at home
from day 1

We have also found dog paddling pools and a really lovely big one for the play area that the dogs can use in summer to cool off in and it has a cover for when it is not in use or for safety.  The area is actually shady at various times of the day due to the height of the house and the back wall and there are trees all around for additional shady training places.  We will put in some additional shade in the work area but we don't need anywhere near as much as we thought.

Cleo-potra as our friend
Ron has renamed her and
plant pots do seem to be
one of her favourite resting
places!

There will also be raised lounging areas and sand pits for the dogs to play and dig in - but these can also be watered down in hot weather as we know how much our own dogs love to lay their bellies in damp sand on a hot day.  The roof of the work area will be extended to provide additional shade and protection to the dog's houses, but with the insulation this is additional rather than essential.

The dog's gate bell!

I am so looking forward to welcoming dogs and owners here and to hopefully running the first Leadchanges workshop once we are all set up.  I want to get the website finished next and get out the info to the rescue centres - as of course we will be looking for our next rescue dog to welcome for a stay until he or she finds a new home.

Entrance as you come in - lovely wild garden all around.
We are busy weeding the gravel area and planting up
pots of herbs and little veggies.  A bigger veg patch
has been identified but will come later!

We have also started a bit on the garden, weeding (it is terribly over run) and located an area for the veggie garden although the big veggies are more likely to be going in for next year.  Antonio our neighbour and the farmer has many hens, so right now we get eggs from him weekly and we may not have our own as the hens are everywhere and with sufficient eggs.  Maybe I will put in an area for our own with regards to the training of dogs to hens, but there is so much livestock here and access to ways of training, that it may not be necessary.  We will see.

The next stage of Sulky training should start when I can get my double harness - so I'm hoping that might be possible soon.  Ideally the next step will see if we can get a HelpX person to blitz the garden and help us get it ship shape sooner.  The ad will go out soon.  A week should actually do it for now with another week in a couple of months maybe for some extra painting or re-proofing the shed.

The main square

Convent and Church - Iglesia
del Carmen

Alhama de Granada is a delight!  It has a lovely little sports centre with what looks like it might be an indoor pool!  I am going to investigate and there appear to be physios at the centre too.  The larger shopping town is Loja about 25 mins by car - actually not that far in km's but it's a bit of a windy road.  The views however are stunning!!!  You could pretty much walk from the house here, by farm tracks, all the way to Loja without crossing another road or finding another house.  It is far above and beyond what we could have hoped for in a location for the dogs and what we want to do here.

The gorge running through Alhama

The town also has a stunning gorge running through its centre and a hot springs - with spa and old Arab baths.  There is also GR7 long distance walking route going through the town and other lovely walks along the gorge plus the "Washington Irving Ruta" - a literary trail a bit like the Quixote trail, but for the man maybe most known for his writings - Rip van Winkle and The Legend of Sleepy Hollow!   More about him and Alhama below from the official websites and Wikipedia.


Alhama de Granada is a town in the province of Granada, approx. 50 km from the city of Granada. The name is derived from the thermal baths located there, which are called al-hammam in Arabic.

In 1482, the fortress town was taken from the Moorish Sultanate and Kingdom of Granada by the Catholic Monarchs.

Michael with Antonio in the Café-Bar "El Tigre".
What a fabulous place and anyone visiting must call in.
Friendly, great food and you can organise Tapas Tastings
and private Flamenco evenings - min. 10 people

Alhama’s position between Málaga and Granada gave it strategic importance for the Moors but they also had a particular fondness for the town and its thermal waters. The cry of sorrow, ¡Ay de mi Alhama!, uttered by Abu Al-Hacen following the battle of 1482 when the town was lost to the Catholic conquerors, entered the Spanish language as an exclamation of regret.



At a convenient distance from the town centre nestling in a poplar grove lining down the banks of the river (also known as Merchan) you will find a hot springs. Prehistoric remains found in the neighbourhood, show the antiquity of the human settlements.

Just lovely - El Tigre: Specialise in Desayunos, quesos, jamones
and carnes a la brasa - Plaza Constitución, 1
Alhama de Granada - 958 350 445

There are also clear evidences of the way Romans used the waters.In the 15th century, the Arabs consolidated the town next to these hot springs and it was believed that they built the termal baths there but the real origin of those baths is roman as is proved in the book of Salvador Raya Retamero a local historian in his book "Reseña histórica de los baños termales de la muy noble y leal ciudad de Alhama de Granada" (Brief history of the hot springs of the most noble and loyal city of Alhama de Granada)[1] a short interview to the author explain the details.[2] The strategic influence of Alhama de Granada made vital the fall, in 1492, of the Arab empire for the conquest of the Kingdom of Granada, which lead to the beginning of a flourishing age, because of the patronage of the Catholic Monarchs. The bath house in the Almohade style of the 12th century that is preserved in the SPA is a good example of Arab baths’ construction.

The magnificent horse shoe arcs were built over the remains of Roman construction and are covered by a vaulted roof, pierced by star-shaped openings that let the daylight filter in. Under the vaulted roof of the baths it bubbles up the oldest warm spring of Alhama de Granada. The newest one, which springs up a few metres from the other, was discovered in 1884, many centuries after a terrible earthquake whose epicentre could have been very near the area.

Alhama looks out over some of Spain's most spectacular scenery. In winter, the view to the majestic snow-capped Sierra Nevada is uninterrupted. Close by is the vast and beautiful Bermejales lake, 12 km from town and reached by a road lined with poplars and Mediterranean black pines. There are sandy beaches, safe swimming and plenty of non-motorised water sports. There are also a couple of cafes at the edge of the lake. Many of the local population spend evenings and weekends barbecuing at the water's edge, it is a great location. (Wikipedia)

From www.thegrapevine.es:  Walking in Alhama de Granada

Over the mountains from Cómpeta the historic town of Alhama de Granada nestles in a valley and is a great base for exploring the great outdoors. Only an hour from the coast, the scenery changes dramatically from the high peaks of the Sierras Almijaras, Tejeda and Alhama to a more rolling countryside. The peaks of El Fuerte (Frigiliana) and El Lucero (Cómpeta) can be seen in the distance as you approach Alhama de Granada, and the passes of Puerto de Frigiliana and Puerto de Cómpeta loom in the background ready to be walked and explored. There is, however, a lot to see near the town itself. For the culture and history buffs, the routes of the romantic writer Washington Irving passes through the town, and the Arab traveller and writer Ibn Batuta. The effects of earthquake of 1884 can be clearly seen in Alhama de Granada – the book “Los Terremotos de 1884, Arenas del Rey y Seco de Lucena” by Andrés García Maldonado documents its devastating effects on Andalucia. It was the same earthquake which rocked Cómpeta and damaged the church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción in Plaza Almijara. The tourist office offers tours at 12 noon every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.

As to the geology, the gorge of the Tajos is reminiscent of the Grand Canyon on a smaller scale, and the walk through the gorge to the local beauty spot El Ventorro is well worth a visit. Starting in Alhama de Granada from behind the Nunnery Church Nuestra Señora del Carmen (16th 18th century) and the tourist office, follow the track down the steps called the “Cuesta del Carmen” down to the river Alhama. Continue along the path which leads to the Molinos de la Acequia Alta Mills, and the Camino de los Angeles. This route passes through the Tajos and is part of the GR-7 (Gran Recorrido No. 7) – just one of the network of long distance paths in Andalucia). At the time of writing (early March 2008) the almond blossom is still in full flower – the town is at over 1000m whilst Cómpeta is at 636m so spring comes a little later at that altitude. At this time of year, the chasm is full of flowers, wooded glades of deciduous trees and birds nesting on the cliffs.

Continue along the chasm with Puerto de Cómpeta in the distance – this is known as the Pantaneta route and there is an interpretive board about the geology of the area (in English and Spanish) which explains the activity of the European and Iberian tectonic plates over the years. Moving on, you will pass the shrine of Los Angeles – have a look inside - you will be surprised at how it has been decorated. After another .5km you will come to a crossing over River Alhama on the left over a wooden bridge. This is a favourite picnic spot for locals and visitors alike. Cross the river and continue along the track, on the left you will see the remains of a hydroelectric system. Eventually you will come to the Alhama – Jatar road – cross the road, and turn left (keeping on the path and take care as traffic goes very fast on this stretch). To the right is a road bridge and take a moment to have a look at the dam and the lake. Continue then to the left, and pass a secluded house with conifer trees outside, and when you come to the clearing you will see El Ventorro, a great place to stop for a drink or a meal (book up at weekends, especially for lunch). El Pato Loco (the Crazy Duck!) is next door and has a swimming pool and more outside space. Across from both establishments is the lake with a wide variety of ducks, coots and other water fowl. There is an information board with pictures explaining the best time to see which type of bird. If you stay overnight in this idyllic spot you will hear foxes barking in the dark. Inside El Ventorro there are magnificent paintings of the countryside covered in snow. It is 10km to Jatar and the turquoise waters of Lake Bermajales.

There are many walking tracks in this area, and the Ruta de los Angeles goes right through to the hot springs (balnearios) which is definitely worth a visit. From the town it takes about half an hour, and again the going is good underfoot.

It is also possible to climb Maroma (2066m) from the Alhama side, and through the Puerto de Cómpeta and Puerto de Frigiliana. We can provide information on accommodation in the Alhama de Granada area – contact us for a quotation. More information from http://www.spain.iberacal.com.

Walking Group

Alhama de Granada: Terry Mottershead – http://www.alhambrarambler.com

Getting there:

Bus:
Alhama – Málaga: 16:30 via Torre del Mar
Málaga – Alhama: 09:00 via Torre del Mar

Car:

From Cómpeta – drive to Canillas de Albaida and turn left past Bar Cerezo. By the shrine, turn right and follow the zig zag road past Finca Cerillo and at the end of the road, turn left (the right hand fork takes you to Fogarate) then right on to the tarmac road towards Salares. Follow the road through Salares, Sedella and Canillas de Aceituno, using the by passes for each village. After passing through Canillas de Aceituno you will be able to see Lake Viñuela. At the end of the road turn right and pass through La Viñuela (the little vine). You will join the Velez Málaga – Zafarraya road – turn right and head for the pass.

Follow the A335 / A340 from Velez Málaga to the pass at Zafarraya, then bear right after passing through the village. It is signposted to Alhama de Granada.

Tourist office:

Paseo Montes Jovellar s/n
Tel. y fax 958 360 686
www.turismodealhama.org
Email: turismo@alhama.org

Washington Irving Walking Route:

This route traces the steps followed in 1829 by the romantic North American writer Washington Irving, who was fascinated by the wealth and exoticism of the Spanish-Muslim civilization. A communications artery established many centuries before, which served as a trade route between the Christian south of the peninsula and the Nazarite kingdom of Granada.

The trajectory links the capitals of the two traditional Andalusias, the Lower and Upper; two plains, the Open Country and the Fertile Plain, separated by an evocative and rugged journey. The route swings between Seville and Granada, the two obligatory stops on the romantic journey which the image of Andalusia projected in Europe, attracting a multitude of artists, writers, the curious and all kinds of travellers.

Washington Irving (April 3, 1783 – November 28, 1859) was an American author, essayist, biographer, historian, and diplomat of the early 19th century. He is best known for his short stories "The Legend of Sleepy Hollow" and "Rip Van Winkle", both of which appear in his bookThe Sketch Book of Geoffrey Crayon, Gent. His historical works include biographies of George Washington, Oliver Goldsmith and Muhammad, and several histories of 15th-century Spain dealing with subjects such as Christopher Columbus, the Moors, and the Alhambra. Irving served as the U.S. ambassador to Spain from 1842 to 1846. (Wikipedia)

With all this walking and hill climbing I will certainly be Camino fit for October!  The town is only 15 minutes on the bicycle too - all off road.  Psychologically it seems further because you can't see the town from the house, but it's actually quicker to get to Alhama than it was to go to Consum via the cycle route in Chella!

I hope we see some of you here soon!  More later, but I will crack on with the preparations for now!

Holidays for Dogs Granada, Costa Women and next El Camino dates

Just a quick one to say that we are on the move tomorrow - May 1st.  The truck has already delivered most of our things to Alhama de Granada and we leave with the dogs, Cleo and the remaining bits and bobs!  A bit scary and we are not sure yet how we will all fit - the cat box is just the wrong size!  However, we just want to get going now, settle in and get started with our new ventures.  I have already had some interest in the dog holidays and workshops and all thanks to the new Leadchanges website - www.leadchanges.net (which is looking good but not yet finished) and a great group called "Costa Women".

Costa Women is a social and business networking community for women living in Spain.  It's super friendly and proactive and I would thoroughly recommend joining!  The website address is www.costawomen.ning.com/

I have been very honoured to be a "featured woman" this week and you can read the fun Q&A I did with them on the Costa Women website.

We will be without internet for a short while until we get set up, but will catch up with the blog and website asap so watch this space and I will post pics soon!  We also look set for the next Camino stages to be held over a couple of weeks in October - around 11th to 29th with a short stop over and break at a 4* pet friendly in Ávila before heading on to Zamora.  The new place will be excellent for preparing for our walk as there are kilometres of walks we can cover from the house!

Camino Update and the Latest from Chella

Hot enough in Chella for the dogs to start swimming
again.  They are taking a holiday from the Camino
while we relocate!

I'm sure a number of friends and those who have been following my Camino have wondered what is happening now and if I am about to start the next leg of the walk.  However, there is news and change in the air, so the Camino is on hold for a few months - sadly and a little frustratingly although all for good and exciting reasons!

The first reason for a delay is that the snows up on the hills toward Cebreros were still there well into March and the second - we have decided to make a move!  Where we are headed, there are more options for Michael with his solar work (already with some projects on the go) and there are more chances for Leadchanges, running workshops along with helping and boarding dogs.

Our new residence will be about 2.8km from Alhama de Granada in the Province of Andalucia.  A great location in easy reach of Granada, Malaga, Seville and Cordoba!  It is a stunning town and full of history.  A big plus for us is that the property is in rolling hills, with some olives and almonds surrounding it.  It is rural but close to all amenities and has the most amazing dog walking country.  The best part - it's not pine tree country!  Something we have been desperate to find since moving to Spain as dog walking in Chella is so restricted for almost 5 months of the year!  Even in many areas of Andalucia, there are pines in the hills and we wanted to find somewhere where we did not have to stress on every walk about processionary caterpillars.

I hope to contact the various dog charities shortly once my new website is up and running as often their adopters need to kennel when holidaying or heading off to visit family, especially if they have settled in Spain from other countries.

I also want to continue fostering dogs and will put whichever one is currently with us on the website. As usual, this gives the dog a better chance of finding a home.  We plan a three level service of accommodation, something like Gold, Silver and Bronze and for those who adopt a resident foster dog staying with us, they will be given the Silver entry level and one weekend during their first year, as a free stay.

I will also be able to help with rehab cases as well as help owners understand their dogs better.  We want to offer a day sitting/creche type service for those who are holidaying with their dogs or who might normally go out with their dogs, but want to do a city break or day trip where it is much harder to have a dog with them.  We personally understand the need for this as often, when walking the Camino for example, we have wanted to add on some site seeing but are strapped for time or unable to do so because the dogs re with us.   For a trip to the city for example, the day is often too long, the city too hot, you can't hang out at a nice restaurant or suddenly decide to stay on a bit longer to see one more monument or take in a movie because you have dogs waiting.

If you have been able to find somewhere to leave your dog, then you worry that they might be getting unsettled as it is an unfamiliar place, or that they have been alone too long.  If they are in the car, even if only for a short time, is it getting too hot, has the shade moved, has their water run out?  We want to be able to give owners the peace of mind, that they can spend the day touring without worry.

Set in open farmland

Another option we plan is to offer a pick up service - possibly an hour's radius from the property - and include collections from just outside of Malaga and through to Granada.  We will offer small scale, personal service with no more than 4 dogs at any one time and for those who are happy for their dogs to socialise and play, this will take place with our dogs only (I know how ours respond).

Guest dogs will get one on one time, training given and issues addressed (where required and this option taken), walks, play time and time to be a family dog and join us in the house (again where owners are happy for this and one at a time only with our own dogs).  So many kennels just offer an exercise area, not much personal attention and very few offer walks.  We want to offer a place where we would be happy to leave our own dogs.

Perfect dog walking country!

My usual Leadchanges dog/human psychology workshops will continue to run and which help owners understand more about their dogs, more about themselves and the relationship between the two.  I have been working on the format to a "new and improved style" which people seem to like and there the workshops will also be suitable for those who just love dogs and want to have a fun day out.

For more information - go to our website (currently under construction so not everything is listed yet - please bear with us) and have a look at what is on offer: www.leadchanges.net.

If you are looking for somewhere a bit different to kennel your dog or if you have questions or requirements for help on behaviour, do get in touch.

We plan to be open from mid-June 2013 once we have put in the working, shade/playground areas and finished the accommodation and fencing.

Building of the Canal's Jan 16th Fire and Visit to Teruel

And After:
The finished result!  Tree/fire of San
Antoni

Before... building the
enormous tree that will
become a fire

A couple of months ago I wrote about the amazing fire built in Canals, Valencia Province, to celebrate San Antoni.  The information about the festival tells us that the fire is built as tall as the church and I planned to go back to Canals to see for myself.  I was therefore fortunate enough to see how they build the fire and to then witness the lighting of it on September 16th.

The pine logs and branches fill the whole of the square outside the church and even spill out along the pavements leading to the church.  There is a huge team of people who build the fire with great humour and passion and they construct it so that it will safely collapse in on itself as it burns.  When the square is packed with people it is very important and the crowd gets incredibly close to the fire!  We were in fact only about 2m from it when the priest lit the firecrackers which surround the tree and start the celebrations and the fire.

The fire starts to take

The houses and church next to and surrounding the tree have metal covers over windows and doors to stop the glass shattering or the wood catching fire.  There are a few police (all in good humour) to check on the order of things and a fire engine or two to make sure all stays in control and who also spray water at intervals to keep things cool and make sure buildings are safe.  Many of them were also filming the events.  It is the most amazing spectacle and well worth attending if you are visiting the area.  It takes place on September 16th and usually starts around 21.00hrs.  We attended the little service in the church beforehand - packed with people - and where a choir sang throughout.  It was a wonderful "occasion" and very beautiful with a great energy among all those there.  One really experiences the passion and joy of the Spanish people at these events and how they are also happy to share with all those who are interested in learning about the culture.

Oranges around St Antoni

Around the door of the church there are oranges decorating the statues and alcoves and on top of the fire/tree itself are orange leaves and more oranges.  I am guessing because oranges are a very big part of the region's agriculture.

The fire takes hold and
once about half way up
really spreads quickly

After the service the priest walks with one of the big church candles out to the fire and lights the tree with great ceremony.  He was also smiling and amused by the whole thing - enjoying the tradition and this important role!

As the flames grew higher and hotter, the crowd moved back - all very politely and without panic - totally in an "orderly fashion" and something that I'm not sure would have been the same in the UK!  Not only that, but you'd never have been allowed to light such a huge fire in the middle of a town in the UK!!  Not without a 10m barrier around it anyway - here there were people from the crowd virtually leaning into the flames to have their photos taken - until it got too hot!  The bell towers rang out in magnificence and glowed orange in the light of the fire.  Every now and then the cross on the top of the church could be seen through the thick smoke and it was a very dramatic scene.  It reminded me of the photographs of St Paul's Cathedral in London during one of the air raids during the war - surrounded by smoke and flames, but still standing proud and strong and in defiance of the enemy, a symbol of resistance to oppression and defying defeat.

Every now and again the cross on the top
of the church would appear through the
flames and smoke.  You can also see the
bell tower (right) glowing in the flames

The orange leaves and oranges on top
of the tree/fire and the cross boldly
standing above on top of the church

 

The fire really taking hold and the size of the crowd who turned out to watch.  Apparently the next day everyone comes to cook breakfast on the embers - or that is what we were told. I would think you could continue to cook on it for several days!    I have also included below a couple of videos - one of the building of the fire and one from the fire itself.  

In addition to this festival, and something that takes place in all the villages, there is a blessing of the animals.  It does not always take place the day after, some towns do it on different days, but as one Spanish news item notes:  

"If you like animals, there is no entertainment quite like seeing hundreds of pets, dogs, cats, horses, and even iguanas, snakes, and roosters, all converging in one square to be sprinkled with holy water!  January 17th,  is yet another important Saint’s Day in Spain, that of San Antonio Abad, patron saint of animals.

Naturally there’s an important backstory to Antonio Abad, also known as Anthony the Great. He was a Catholic (Coptic) monk born in 3rd-century AD Egypt who was known for spreading monasticism, but is now most famous for being the first to practice the asceticism of going into the wilderness to renew one’s faith through nature. This is how he became associated with animals. (Odd side note: He is also the Saint to whom you appeal to get rid of skin diseases, i.e. “St. Anthony’s fire”!)"

The website for Canals gives you all the details about the event and it is worth taking a look at it:  http://www.canals.es/santantoni/index.php/component/content/article/25-sant-antoni/180-crema-de-la-foguera-en-honor-a-sant-antoni-2013.html

El Camino de Santiago - Levante Route: Three days from Mora, through Toledo and toward Rielves

Tobi - "Es ist nicht gut, außer man tut es" Erich Kästner.  There is no good, unless you do it.

Central - Tobi's 4 beads

An appropriate start to this three day walk - one of the prayers sent with the Robertson Mala from Tobi.  I had always wanted to make it at least to as far as Toledo on the Camino, long before I had decided to commit to the walk and walk with the mala, so arriving in the city was a momentous occasion and marked kilometre 475 of the walk.  The toast at the end of the day was to "just doing it!".  Heading on past Toledo on day three, onto the Toledo to Ávila section of the walk took me to kilometre 488 where we finished the three day section of walks.  From now on, we need to spend longer away - the next two sections being for at least a week at a time.

We had booked at the Posada de Peregrinos again and our former room was taken by someone who wanted to stay longer - or that is at least what I think had happened!  Ana was wonderful and let us have a whole apartment for ourselves and the dogs, which included a sitting room, twin room, self-catering kitchen with washing machine and a little porch area where we could keep the dog food, bags, boots and which was also a private entrance to the accommodation.  We had all this for the same rate as the previous room.  We were warm, cosy, private and very quiet - so a good night's sleep was had by all!

Day 1:  Mora to Nambroca

Kitchen facilities at the
Posada de Peregrinos
appartment

We started off from Mora at 08.00, dark and cold but without the rain promised by the forecast.  The temperatures were not as low as usual but with the wind, there was a wind chill factor that brought an icy edge!  When we arrived in Mora the castle at Almonacid looked a lot further than the 11.1km noted on the map and it is interesting to note how being able to see where you are going "to" puts a whole different psychological bent on things!  Somehow it seems different when you can't see the final destination at first, but it later comes into view.  Being able to see it right from the start of the journey sets the mind to thinking "Wow, that's a long way?!  And that's only the first swap point, I then have to walk that same distance again!  Surely that's further than it says on the map... ooohhhh I'm not sure about this..." and so on.  A whole dialogue starts to take place.  When you can't see the destination, the mind takes a much more "one step at a time" approach and lives far more in the moment.  So with Tobi's quote in mind: "There is no good unless you do it", we set out.  Of course, once moving and enjoying the walk, the distance proved no problem and our timing was as it ever is for around 10 or 11km.

Ancient meets modern - the distant caste of Almonacid
with modern solar panels in the foreground

Before reaching Almonacid however, we passed through the lovely little village of Mascaraque which has a lovely church and chapel.  There is also a Moorish castle which looks as though it might now have been converted into private accommodation as it is well kept and the windows look "lived in".  (I checked this on a local website and it seems taht this is the case)  The name of the town apparently means "The King's little town".   On the final approach into the town, we seemed to walk along an old cobbled route, beautifully laid and a good example of what the roads into town may once have been like when they were stone rather than mud tracks.

Akina on the old road into Masceraque

Mascaraque church and Moorish
castle

The guide suggests the Mesón Patio Manchego for those arriving at midday and there were a number of cute looking restaurants through the village, but we were there around 08.45 so passed on through.

Take the right fork

The walk is well marked and easily found and the track out of the town and the roads mentioned in the guide are clearly marked on the walls of the buildings.  Stay to the left of the road as you head out of the village and walk up the quieter road to the left of the main one.  The main road would bring you out onto the round-a-bout at the end of the village.  Taking the quieter suggested road on the left will bring you out onto a path lined with trees with the round-a-bout to your right.  It is tar but used as a walking path and not by motorised vehicles and there is a Ruta Quixote sign board on your right as you cross over the road.

The castle looks quite imposing
ahead of us on the trail

This path then heads out of the village and onto some wide open fields - or certainly that's the case at this time of year - and then it forks, with the Pilgrim taking the obvious "right" hand track!  This leads around the base of the castle to the right and then into the town of Almonacid.  The route on the map seems to suggest that the Camino enters the town from the dirt tracks through the back streets, but in fact the route is marked down to the main CM-400.  It is not far along this road before we head back into the town but there is some distance on the main road and the signs are not as the route is shown on the maps.  

The way out of Almonacid de Toledo

The view we leave behind us

On leaving the town the guide explains that the Camino is almost at once off the road to the right of the main road and this is the case as the photo shows and it is clearly marked.  Almonacid was a strange sort of town as it appeared not to have any bars of any kind!  Very unusual for Spain and we had hoped to find breakfast here.  Only once the support vehicle left town did I receive a message to say that "a bar" had been spotted!  Fortunately I had a bocadillo with me - although somewhat dry from having been purchased earlier the day before from what was not perhaps the best bocadillo stall - but it staved off the morning's hunger!  We joked a little about the town as according to the guidebook it was given away three times by various kings and we were sure this was because it didn't have enough bars!  Everyone who took it on realised that it was the "unwanted gift" and tried giving it away to someone else!

Keep an eye out for markers - there are red and white GR route markers
on rocks and walls that are sometimes a little hidden, but they are there

The following couple of hours we walked, now with Kaishi, was just delightful.  The sun was out and the trail was lovely, winding through pretty countryside and along old tracks.  There were a couple of times we had to really look for the markers as they were a little hidden by vegetation, but the way was quite obvious, it was more for peace of mind that one wanted to see the route marked.  The picture here with the white building was the one time where we needed to make sure we were 100% on the right path, because just before this the track forks.  It seems as though the left fork goes to a private dwelling, but one can not be sure as it is not easy to see from the path, however, just ahead there is a marker and the track again forks, this time the Pilgrim takes the one to the left in this picture and heading just out of sight.

The Roman Arched Bridge

Along the track the guidebook tells us that we might struggle to cross the Guadalete stream and that we should look for a single arched Roman bridge in the undergrowth which is strong enough to carry us across.  There is in fact a new and easy to cross bridge, but it is worth looking for the Roman one anyway for the sake of seeing a piece of history - hiding in the grasses but still standing strong.

First cattle grid

This part of the walk is one of the prettiest we have had for a while, and the feel of it was so lovely that we strolled along at quite a gentle pace and there was so much great sniffing for Kaishi with lots of lovely reeds to explore and play in.  It also heads onto a private estate, bounded by two cattle grids.  At first it might seem as though you have taken a wrong turn, but in fact, the path does go right through the very private looking zone and some lovely uncultivated land.  The guidebook talks of a bar or wire across the way, but there are most certainly now, two cattle grids.  There is no marker at the gate, so it is easy to doubt the way and think that the grid should not be crossed, but look a little ahead and to the right and there is a rock with the red and white GR route marker on it.  This confirmed for me that we needed to go across the grid and once the other side there are a number of markers and yellow arrows along the route.

The route marker a little ahead and
to the right of the cattle grid

I was very glad for having taken the girls to some agility classes because persuading Kaishi over the cattle grids was less of a chore.  She took it so steadily and felt her way carefully paw by paw.  I kept her close to one side where she would be able to stay on the earth and cement surface for longest and where she could get purchase on the outer bar of the grid that supports all the others.  In this way it was like walking a very narrow plank or a dog version of a tight rope.  She was excellent and really felt her way along and hopped onto "proper solid ground" the other side of the post that you can see in the picture here.    

The uncultivated way toward the Romaila Estate house

The estate is a wine estate (called Romaila) and the house, when you get to it, is very imposing with large amphora or Roman style wine jars, scattered through the grounds a decorative garden art.  The vines are well kept and the driveway is lined with cypress trees which we cross in order to continue on the Camino, through the vines and on to the second cattle grid.

Cross the tree lined path and make
your way along a track through
well kept vines

Arriving in Nambroca

From here the path is long and straight and initially heads up a long shallow hill.  Once at the top it is possible to see the final destination for the day - Nambroca.  Many of the dirt roads have a significant camber on them because they are driven by vehicles that tend to stay in the middle and wear tracks either side of a raised centre.  It's worth noting that this can cause quite some discomfort on the legs and back after a while if you stay on once side or the other.  Walking in the middle is not always possible of course because it can be quite rough and more grassy and uneven there.  I try to choose the flattest route but where this is not possible it is advisable to alternate from one side to the other so that one leg is not taking all the strain.  One will be walking long and the other short due to the camber and this is very noticable when you are covering many kilometres over a few days and for those walking continuously over a period of weeks, it will help even you out!

Day 2:  Nambroca to Toledo - via Burguillos de Toledo and Cobisa

Early morning light over Burguillos
de Toledo church

According to the guidebook
this is a Renaissance
juridicial marker with
Corinthian capital and
ironwork
lamp and cross

A lovely day today for walking and positively "hot" at +5C!  Especially as there was no breeze and I had wrapped up warm in hat, snood, gloves and windproof jacket!  With Burguillos only 4km from Nambroca, we were there in no time at all, just after 8.30 and to our delight the Ayuntamiento was open and sporting a scallop shell above door height and next to the street name!  I left Akina outside and before I could even ask about a sello the lady behind the desk was smiling and waving her stamp at me!  What a lovely and cheerful way to start the morning.  She then wished us a "buen viaje" as she sent us on our way.

The duck pond just before the ducks
leapt into action!

The route took us past a churreria advertising churros and chocolate "todos los días" which isn't always the case with some churrerias where you go in, hopeful and full of longing for delicious, liquid chocolate, pure dark gold as it were, and fresh churros, like piped long doughnuts for dunking and are met with "not today" or worse, slightly stale, chewy, cold churros!  I was sad that it was too soon really to allow myself to stop today, so I headed on out of the town and past the duck pond mentioned in the guidebook.  On seeing us the ducks quacked and leapt into the water, swimming rapidly towards us in the hope (I guess) of the duck version of churros - left over bread!  Sadly my personal churrerria was not open "all days" so Akina and I quickly left the disappointed ducks and headed up the hill out of the town toward Cobisa.

Akina outside the Ayuntamiento where we got our sello

As we passed through a housing estate, complete with barking, fenced in dogs throwing themselves at us (Akina looking at them as though to ask "what's your problem") there was one house a little out of the ordinary.  A kind of log cabin, a little like some of the houses that line the old town streets of Albaquerque and in the same fashion as those cabins, hanging out garlic and peppers to dry.  Sadly from the picture you can't see the whole house, but from the side it was very reminiscent of those I had seen on a trip to New Mexico... ooohhh maaany years back!

Easy to go straight on - the marker rock is that one just
in front and to the left...

The visible side of the rock...

On reaching the end of the estate, the road continues up and alongside some open fields where it then meets with some dirt tracks.  Peregrino beware!!   The rock sporting the red and white marker has it painted on the side away from you and it is very easy to miss!  As the guidebook suggests the road goes straight to Cobisa but does not indicate that it is tar, it is easy to feel that one should go "straight on" and is not aware that in fact this part of the path follows the little tar road all the way to the next town.

The "other" side of the rock!!

Pilgrim beware!

The Quixote marker with the Camino marker also on its post is off to the right and when strolling along confidently, it is easy to continue onto the dirt track and up a long hill - but that is "away" from the correct direction!  I did this and had to turn back - very frustrating as it added on another 2km or so and a hill that I hadn't needed to climb.  But this is the way of the Camino too.  As I had not packed breakfast because we planned to eat in Cobisa, the support vehicle shortened our walk back and we were breakfasting on morcilla and eggs only half an hour later than we had planned.

Log cabin with garlic and peppers drying outside

From here the route heads through the town and out onto a quiet village road that goes past a garden centre on the left.  As you turn off the tarred road onto a stretch of dirt track the ground starts to fall away from you, at first gradually and then more steeply revealing the beautiful city of Toledo below.  Initially it looks like any city, with old spires and towers breaking the skyline ahead, but as one gets closer there is no mistaking the prominent and dominant edifice of the Alcázar on the horizon.

The posh end - Los Cigarriles

The road winds through what appears to be millionaire's row above Toledo the various "Cigarrales".  The homes are stunning and have the most amazing views, and from around different bends and breaks in the vegetation, the Alcázar pokes its head.  It seems strange that for weeks I was climbing steadily up to the plateau of La Mancha, initially starting at sea level in Valencia and now, suddenly I descended almost all in one go down into the valley holding the river Tajo below Toledo.  The walk and the view have been worth it.  Although seen many times in photos of beautiful cities, chocolate boxes and jigsaws, nothing can prepare you for the awe inspiring view of Toledo as you approach from the Camino route.  It follows the main road in - so beware, because this is not clear from the guidebook and the directional markers suddenly stop as you drop onto the main road - and for anyone driving to the city, make sure that from whichever direction you come, you drive around to the south of the city and approach from that direction!  You will not be disappointed.  It's stunning from all angles, but the south side is truly magnificent.  The pictures will speak for themselves but even so, they can not convey what you will see when you experience it for yourself and especially if you have completed El Camino this far from Valencia!

We were circled and "escorted"
down the hill toward to Toledo
for some distance

We begin the descent

Kaishi on the long descent and one of the fabulous "Hollywood Hills" style houses of Los Cigarrales

The Alcázar peeks from behind
many of the houses and buildings
on the way down through Los
Cigarrales

Toledo as the Peregrino sees it on arrival - the first
views of the river and city a little closer

Gradually the city comes into view more and more and reveals itself with each step that the Peregrino takes towards it.  The walk into Toledo was one of the longest, not due to distance but because although we did not have a huge distance to cover over the day, it was impossible not to stop and just admire each new view as the angle of approach changed.
























As I drew closer to the town I swapped Kaishi with Ndzilo.  Although the girls have covered the most kilometres on the walk, Ndzilo is a special girl and now in her twelfth year.  I felt it appropriate that as a well traveled dog, one who has been to so many places with us through South Africa, has lived with us since just after we arrived there and who suffered the most on the long and terrible journey the dogs made to Spain, she was the one who deserved to walk the last part of the journey with me down into the city.

Shaking paws with Ndzilo as we make it to our destination

Ndzilo: From Chrissiesmeer where she was born to Toledo Spain!

We make our way along the river to
the bridge where we cross into
the city

At last we find a yellow arrow again and some Camino
signboards!

Of course, the momentous occasion could not be celebrated alone or with only one of the Ridgebacks - so we
all walked together across the bridge and stopped to record the moment half way across

The view of Toledo that most people will recognise - but there is nothing like standing here in person and
looking out of the city spread before you

With the Robertson Mala outside
Toledo Cathedral's entrance for worship

From here, we gradually made our way up through the town to the Cathedral where I really wanted to receive a stamp as a significant part of the Camino route.  The plan was also to hopefully see inside and to light candles in memory of loved ones, for those who are sick and in suffering and in memory of the victims of genocide.  I hoped to have a photograph taken at this point with the Robertson Mala.  Sadly this was not to be and the experience at Toledo Cathedral left something to be desired!  I want to write a few words on this as others on this journey may be looking forward to a special experience at the Cathedral and will be greatly disappointed.

In a time when the church is losing many members, it was surprising to be turned away at the door (as a peregrino of the Camino de Santiago) and told that I should go and get my stamp at the tourist ticket office opposite.  There is no entry for pilgrims unless you too pay the entrance fee which at 8 Euros is quite steep!  In fact on the day that we arrived, the entrance fee appeared to be in the region of 11 Euros?!  I crossed to the ticket office and approached the desk where to one side a lady was being quite abrupt with a couple of elderly Japanese tourists who could have been better helped and more politely dealt with.  I was therefore standing in front of the other lady on the tourist reception desk who was more interested in playing with her phone and various text messages, than helping visitors!  When I asked if it was possible to obtain a sello I had a "yeah, where d'ya want it" kind of response!  I have to say that it was most out of character from my experiences of Spain so far and not something I had not come across until this point.  I was then sent on my way with barely a glance and the passport pushed back at me.

I decided to try the entrance for worship in the hope of accessing the candles - which fortunately I did - but no photography is allowed inside (which is common in many countries but so far in my experience in Spain has been allowed in almost all areas and all buildings) and we could not get any further than the candles.  We were lucky enough to see the magnificently carved pillars ahead of us, but that was it.

I have to say that it was a somewhat disappointing and rather sad end to what had been a beautiful entry into the town, a very special day and the end of the first third of my journey along the Camino Levante.

Day 3:  Beyond Toledo!  Toward Rielves...

Wow, well here we are and by the end of the morning's walk had completed 488km of our Camino.  Sadly the first part of the route was a bit of an anti-climax after the spectacular arrival into Toledo, but then you can't have fabulous views and perfect walks every day!  What we did have in the early morning sunrise however was one of the most spectacular early morning views of the Camino so far and I did my best to capture it on my phone and the picture is below.

On a small matter of amusement, we came across this pedestrian crossing on the route.  It was part of our regular walk from the accommodation and I filmed it in better light the previous day.  Having searched on YouTube I notice that there are a few other cities that have these delightful crossings and they are so amusing!  However, I was always brought up to "not run" across crossings - the opposite of what this one suggests.  The interesting thing you will note if you watch it however is that a car has jumped a red light and tears across the running green man!  If anyone had been on the road at that time I think it might have been curtains!  Running or not!

At the roundabout at the edge of Toledo you start to pick
up the yellow arrows again

Akina and I left from the Posada de Peregrinos and walked out through the busy morning streets of Toledo, past businessmen and students hurrying to work or study and between crowds of people bustling in and out of the various hospitals we passed along the way.  This included pyjama clad, sling wearing smokers in slippers outside the gates!  Akina took the traffic, reversing signals, car horns and street hustle all in her stride.  The way out, although unmarked by arrows, is easy to find and we were soon at the roundabout where there is a sign directing us to the Hospital de Parapléjicos.  This is actually the direction we take.  The guidebook mentions the petrol station that is on the roundabout (Repsol at the time of writing) and a sign for Talavera, but the Hospital sign is the easiest to follow.  From there the arrows are easy to follow and off the next roundabout, there is a fingerpost and yellow arrows that take the Pilgrim onto the river path.  

There is a lovely seasonal restaurant right here on the river - or it certainly looks as though it will be a place to sit on summer evenings.  Maybe if I get the chance to return in warmer weather!  The restaurant will be on the left and the pathway along the river bank wends its way until it meets a tarred road.  The vapours from the river were rising into the air as we left Toledo behind us.

Merendero seasonal restaurant

Early morning river mists

The river ahead of us looking toward what appears to be an
old weir station or the like

Once we reached the road, it was tar for quite some distance.  Initially this did not seem as though it would be a problem because the lane seemed quiet and I thought initially that the occasional passing car was just going a bit faster than usual.  However, after a while I noticed that all the cars here were speeding along these lanes - city drivers living in the country, used to heading in on the motorway connection not far from us and taking advantage of little traffic?  It appeared so!  Then, in addition to the speeding cars came the gravel trucks and cement lorries.  These too were moving at quite some speed and to top it all - the road often did not have a verge and certainly no pavement.  Akina and I did not enjoy huddling into a hedge every so often or leaning back out of the way of dust, wing mirrors and vehicles that often did not pull out to give us much room.  I called the support vehicle which had left later as the other dogs were walking along the river before being due to head to our final meeting point.  I continued walking in the hope that things would change.

New road systems not marked
on the map

Various quarries along the way,
the arrows above are on the

All around us were gravel quarries, mineral excavations and new road systems.  Finally the vehicle caught up with us just as I had reached what appeared to be a quieter lane, but still on the tar.  I swapped Akina (who was now very cold as she had been on leash and moving at my slower pace for some time) with Kaishi and attempted the next section "with dog".  Although much quieter, we were again forced to throw ourselves into hedgerows when cement lorries or local trafic came past in a whirlwind of dust.  There were some opportunities for Kaishi to run around but I had to keep my ears pricked and call her back or put her on leash where there were bends and turns in the road or I could hear the rumble of wheels in the distance - one advantage one has when walking on a quiet road mostly populated with heavy vehicles!

The BIG arrow on the roundabout!

The road as it was much of the way
toward Estivel

Everyone wanted their route marked on this wall near
Casas de Monterrey!

Finally we reached the dirt road which provided a much more pleasant walk, although only without heavy vehicles after a final mineral operation around the Casas de Monterrey area.  At Estivel we found a delightful farm with an old aquaduct system delivering water.  The effort that had gone into building the arches was quite something!  The place was neatly kept and led us past a ring for training show jumping horses and a small arena although none of the horses were in sight.

Yes, you DO go this way!  Keep the trees
and paddocks to your right and you will
find your way around the buildings as
the road bears left and again meets
the Camino and its markers

Coming into Estivel with it's lovely aquaduct to bring
water to the farm

The final farm that we passed through on the way to our rendevous was also a horse farm and in the distance behind white paddocked fences I could see them in their winter woollies grazing.  It's nice to see horses out and kept more in line with how I like to see them - outside and not cooped up in stables for almost 24 hours a day as a number are kept locally.  This farm was also very neat, and the arrows are clear but when you follow them alongside the paddock fence you do get the feeling that you are about to walk into someone's private yard!  A lady was scrubbing her floors and threw out a bucket of water (in our direction but I don't think it was personal - just a bit medieval!)... and returned in doors.  This seemed to indicate that she was not about to accuse us of trespassing - either that, or she was off to fetch a shotgun.  As she did not reappear and I could now see that the road went "around" the end of the buildings and again picked up the track - we continued on our way!  

The way toward Santiago - in particular the mountains that
will take us on up to Cebreros before delivering us
down into Ávila 

Shortly ahead, I could see Michael and the other girls in the distance and I let Kaishi go and meet them at which point the mad game of chase was begun, particularly delightful to the dogs on this stretch of the route because it was a deep sandy path and there is nothing that delights our dogs more than scraping up sand and inviting your friends to play or racing through it and flicking it up behind you.  It takes them back to their puppyhood I am sure, when the sand arena we had laid for the horses was their favourite playground!

As we made our way together toward the car, pairs of what I can only think were storks, clacked their beaks on their nests.  Such strange creatures!  It seems they are pairing up already, although to me January seems like a strange time, especially as ahead I could now make out the mountains that take us up to Cebreros and they already had snow on top.  Seeing it, I had my doubts that I will be able to make it across them before the end of January and later on, in a news bulletin we saw in a services while on our way home it showed metres of snow in the NE of Spain, far more than on the mountains I here, but a reminder that the time of year is a bit against us.  It might already be too late for the mountain section.  Having said that, my original plan had been to walk the next part of the Camino around March if possible, but we will have to see!  Watch this space and I will let you know.  In the mean time I have to make sure I don't lose the walking fitness that I have built up!

Robertson Mala makes it to Toledo - 475km from Valencia by Camino